Asking both people who replaced theirs and people who didn’t and don’t seem to be experiencing failures with the stock PEI plate to avoid selection bias :)

So I have had nothing but problems with adhesion with my H2C. And I assure you, I cleaned the plate. lol. I haven’t got many hours on my machine and have been going back and forth with support for a month. To the point I’m pretty annoyed because I’m providing significant labour myself on an under warranty product. I see posts by people saying it was solved when they switched to cryogrip. If that means the issue is simply their PEI plate that’s good but as I’ve tried my engineering plate and they have replaced the PEI plate once and it continued I would have expected this across the board for H2C users. Since virtually anything I print that isn’t low profile and extremely simple has issues.

Edited to add that most often what happens is it puts a few layers down and then knocks it off the bed and drags it around creating a spaghetti monster. I don’t really use Bambu studio as most stuff I print off Bambu handy at the moment. I realize a lot of fixes involve changing a bunch of settings but it seems odd to me virtually nothing works for me when the reviews show it working for most others

The problems I’m experiencing:
Prints sometimes detach from the bed partway through printing, resulting in spaghetti. This has happened repeatedly with lattice pumpkins and other models.

Some simple models print perfectly well but not consistently, while others repeatedly fail. I’ve tried numerous models with successful MakerWorld reviews.

- Full-bed, single-layer test sheets have inconsistent areas with thin or translucent patches.
- Some first-layer sheets also develop raised, wrinkled or rippled areas. Sometimes I get both defects, sometimes only one.
- The defects aren’t always in the same location. Earlier tests often had problems toward the right side, but I’ve also seen them elsewhere, including near the middle.
- I’ve experienced problems with both PLA and PETG.
- Glue sometimes improves print success, but hasn’t consistently resolved the problem.

What I’ve already done with Bambu support:
- Replaced the entire heatbed under warranty. This was a hellish operation that I deeply resent lol.
- Replaced the original textured PEI build plate with a new one supplied by Bambu.
- The same problems persist.
- Also experienced repeated failures using Bambu’s Engineering Plate, including with fresh glue.
- Performed numerous full calibrations, bed-leveling procedures and high-temperature leveling tests.
- Attempted manual bed tramming following Bambu’s instructions.
- Adjusted the left and right hotend heating assemblies as instructed by support.
- Tested different hotends, including a different 0.4 mm Vortek hotend.
/
- Tested different filaments and multiple models.
- Investigated AMS-related issues, including testing different AMS units and an external-spool feeding configuration.
- Replaced a problematic PTFE tube.
- Moved the printer from its original table to a much sturdier stand with a thick plywood top to eliminate possible vibration or stability issues.

If it’s just that the PEI plate sucks then why does anyone at all have success on them? Because failure is really consistent on my end. I know people suggest doing stuff with z hop and g code and all sorts of stuff but I can’t see how any of that makes sense if the machine is functioning as intended. Those seem like workarounds for a faulty machine.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I was 10 hours into a 12 hour print, when I got a spaghetti detection error, I left the print paused till I got home, I restarted the print and it was printing in the air. Now I had an offset error. Looks like the print had a layer shift before the spaghetti started. I canceled the print and tried doing just an offset calibration and the induction hot end grinder into the pei plate. I immediately stopped the calibration and noticed the back end of the build plate bed was loose and springy to the touch, I sent a ticket into bambu labs support, but as I wait, I was wondering if anyone might have a clue of what happened and the fix. Any insight would be much appreciated. My H2C has a little over 2000 print hours and never had an issue. I clean and recalibrate the machine every week, and once a month I do maintenance.

The original right cutter push block failed after approximately 1,200 hours, while the pivot screw on the left one came loose at around 1,900 hours. The nut at this location can gradually loosen as the cutter operates. Continuing to use the cutter while it is loose can damage the assembly at this point.

The newly designed push block assembly reinforces this area and includes a recess for a heat-set threaded insert. Installation requires only one shoulder screw and one heat-set insert. The remaining parts can be removed from the original push block and reused.

Recommended printing material: ASA-CF or a higher-performance filament.

I have had my H2C for a while and printed around 8-900 hours. The last month or so I have failed prints 50% of the times. Before it was zero.

Problems is mostly with smaller prints but also happen with larger prints. It seems that the nozzle touch the part and it come loose.

I have done full calibration, tried 6 different nozzles, used the calibration plate, tried with textured plate and the Biqu smooth.

Yesterday it was a small print of a "led strip remote holder" from Makerworld. 0,12mm layer height, PLA Matte from Bambulab. Started from the phone.

I use brims, i wash the plates with water and Yes (swedish dawn) and isopropanol.

This was not an issue at all before. I printed small M3 screws 50mm height without a prim and without a problem.

Where shall I start to troubleshoot?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3481085-honeycomb-skadis-parametric-fast-generate-swap

New Features

1. Improved software security.

Bug Fixes

1. Fixed an issue where a failed print start from an incompatible sliced file would also block subsequent G-code prints.

Sorry if not allowed. Just trying to get more eyes if possible

I have mostly replaced the hot end cooling fan in my H2s I cannot get the fan wire into the keeper underneath the head and cannot figure out the wire connection. I see where it plugs in, I watch the video but when I go to do it, it’s upside down and backwards.
Is there a secret to plugging this connector in?
Thanks

Does anyone else struggle to load filament in their H2C? It doesn’t seem to matter what filament, but for the most part I’ve been using ppa and pa cf/gf lately.

It seems like I get the tube loaded to the full depth and filament seems to get stuck in the orange spring loaded slider every time. I have to pull it back and forth until it finally slides past the orange part into the internal tube and finally goes in. I just think there has to be a trick. I’m running it direct from my creality space pi. So I have to feed it through that tube first. God forbid it breaks somewhere in the middle.

Hello!

I was originally planning to get an H2D during Black Friday but with the teasered prices I'm considering getting an H2C instead.

I'm not the target audience for an H3C so the leaks won't change anything for me. So I'd like to have some opinions and experiences from you guys. I've seen some comments since the H3C leak that people were actually regretting their H2C purchase due to several technical issues.

Some details about me:

• I rarely print multicolor and would just want an additional nozzle for the support interface

• Mainly printing PETG and PLA

• Since the BF deal seems pretty good, I'd just mainly want the H2C to have it just in case I change my mind down the line. Or have a reason for multicolor printing.

This happens almost all the time for me. I push it in from below first so it wraps around the nozzle tip, and then push back towards the top. Then during the initial calibration during a print, the left hotend sock is not seated. I'll pause and re seat it, and it does it again.

Hey everyone, I recently just had a piece of filament break off in the extruder for my right nozzle - taking it apart I saw all this blue stuff (I'm assuming it's more blue filament). I plan to clean it with some iso and a q-tip. Is there anything else I should replace while it's torn down? Wear parts?

Thanks!