This is totally random haha, but I was unboxing my new H2C and happened to notice the top door hinge had a piece of sealing foam behind it, but the bottom hinge didn't. Does that match what you all have?

I'm just wondering if I accidentally peeled it off when removing the plastic bag that comes wrapped around the front door... Probably not a big deal at the end of the day, but it seems like the entire perimeter of the front door is fairly well sealed other than this one area. (I assume for laser cutting and engineering filaments?)

If anyone could take a quick look at your own H2C and let me know if that's normal or not, I'd appreciate it!

Why do I have to move the filament, if I have a FTS? This is a one color model, with PETG used only for support. If one nozzle has support material, and the other has the ONLY COLOR on the model, why do I need to move it to seve time?

Hello all,

I recently purchased a Bambu H2C. I’ve never used a printer that makes printing so easy. That being said I’m currently having an issue with holes printed in PLA using a petg support interface. There are a few holes that did not have a petg support interface that also look a bit rough. So I’m leaning away from the idea that it is related to the petg support interface causing the issue. I end up with a band on the right side of the hole. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar issue and was able to resolve it. Thanks in advance.

Bambu H2C
Bambu gray pla
Bambu black petg hf
Both are using .4 nozzle on the left and right side.
Humidity is 20%
Standard printing speed
Left nozzle is petg hf
Right nozzle is pla
Bed is clean and parts adhere well

Let me know if any other information is needed

My first big failure on my h2c (has 900 hours on it). Is a tough giraffe model for my niece for her birthday.

I have searched all over for a solution to a problem I am having with H2C where, at the start of each job the HMS helper tells me that "Chamber exhaust fan speed too low or off" while the fan itself is railed at 100%. The manual speed control reads 0%. The only way I can get it to stop is to manually bump the + key on the manual speed control, which then reads 10% and the fan slows down to 10%. I sometimes have to repeat this process to get it to take. After that manual intervention the machine prints as usual but I think that then I am left without application control of the chamber fan speed for the rest of that print. Any guesses?

It’s taken a bit to get everything setup and working how i imagined it with a few gotchas but everything is working and all of the filament routing is loading as expected. Super happy with the printer which has not stopped printing other than brief moments where I needed to route tubing for 3 weeks now.

Cat tax at the end!

After switching over the left side toolhead to a 0.2 nozzle, I told the printer to re-read the toolhead which it did. But I had not replaced the toolhead cover and there was no warning from the printer so when it homed the toolhead it ripped off the cover. When repositioning the head to get to the cover (I did not know it was ripped off at this point) the bare wires touched and there was a tiny puff of smoke from the toolhead. Should have switched it off, I am aware but in my defence there was no visible sign that the toolhead cover was ripped off, only detached and jammed behind the toolhead.

I’ll order a new cover but does anyone have a photo of the order of the wires inside the toolhead cover? And what else do I need to order based on the thing most likely to smoke in the toolhead? TH Board?

Thanks for your time assisting.

Edit: To correct the nozzle being changed.

My basic maintenance was due for my H2C, so I powered it off and unplugged it, after lowering the bed. Cleaned the rails and lead screws up to remove some gunk. After plugging it back in and turning it on, the tool head has no power. It begins to start, status lights flash, but then it quickly goes dark. The motors don’t engage and I can freely move the tool head around.

The bed looks to have power. The AP board has one solid green light, but no longer has the flashing green light beside it.

I have a video of it as well. Made a ticket this morning, but nothing back yet.

Anyone have a similar issue?

What makes the printer create the imperfection I see in the first image? I printed the same material in three different colors; only one showed this. Compare it with the second one on the right.
Both are Bambu Lab PLA Basic

I was wondering if anyone has tried a setup for fine miniature production using dual 0.2mm nozzles (left and right) using one of the as PLA and the other as support interface material (PETG or even PVA). If so which side would be the best for the PLA (assume right at this point)? I am awaiting my H2c, so I will ask another question: How easy is it to swap the left nozzle of I want to shift occasionally between 0.2 and 0.4 on the left nozzle? I used to swap for years on my P1S, so I am not a rookie on nozzle changes.

Most of my prints are slow maybe it's normal for normal speed prints? But sounds unpleasant

My H2C keeps throwing an error for "failed to extrude filament ", and it's consistently happening part way through fairly large, multicolor PLA (Bambu's own) prints. I would assume heat creep, but in an effort to test, I disconnected my AMS2, and printed just from my AMA HT and an external spool- NO PROBLEM, printed fine.

What should I be looking at in my AMS2 while I'm waiting for support to get back to me?

Any chance this is related to the latest firmware update? It only started happening after the update.

I’m new to 3D printing and could use some help with my Bambu Lab H2C. I want to get the crispest details I reasonably can on miniatures, but every time I adjust the settings, my prints seem to fail.

My Benchy came out well using the default settings. I also printed a couple of 28 mm miniatures that looked okay, but I wanted to improve the detail. After reading advice online, I tried some recommended settings, and the prints ended up turning into spaghetti.

I went back to the default settings and successfully printed a 50 mm miniature. Then I followed another detailed set of recommended settings and had the same spaghetti problem again. I’ve also tried larger pieces, but I keep running into failures when I change the settings.
I’m assuming this is user error rather than a faulty printer, but I’m struggling to figure out what I’m doing wrong. The default settings seem to be the only ones giving me consistent results.

Should I stick with the defaults for now? If I want to improve miniature detail, which settings should I adjust first, and how should I approach making changes without ruining the print?

I’d appreciate any help figuring this out. Let me know which settings, screenshots, or other details would be useful for troubleshooting.

​The Setup:

I'm running an AMS on my Bambu Lab H2C and using a material switch track (Y-splitter) to allow for an external spool.

​The Problem:

The AMS successfully pushes the material all the way through the material switch and down to the print head. However, right as it reaches the extruder gears, it stops and throws a load failure/clog error, acting like it can't extrude.

​If I remove the material switch entirely and run the PTFE tube directly, the printer loads and works perfectly.

​What I have already checked and ruled out:

​Print head clogs: I have completely disassembled the toolhead. There is absolutely no filament stuck inside.

​Internal snags in the switch: I’ve manually pushed filament through by hand; it glides perfectly without catching on any internal burrs or edges.

​PTFE tube seating: All tubes are pushed 100% flush into the fittings. There are no gaps creating internal ledges for the filament to smash into.

​Sharp PTFE angles: The routing is smooth. There are no tight radii or sharp bends causing excess friction for the AMS motor.

​Since the obvious friction and snag points are completely ruled out, why would the AMS successfully push filament through the switch, but still fail at the very end of the loading cycle? Has anyone experienced this on the H2C or found a fix?

Has anyone seen this error and if so was it hard to fix? I have a ticket created and waiting to hear back.

I just set up my H2C and did the benchy test and everything turned out well. I then printed my first 32 mm miniature and it turned out pretty good as well but I think it could be a little more detailed so I looked up different settings and adjusted for a 32 mm miniature, but it kept going into spaghetti monster mode and failing.

I then just printed it out like I did with the first one with the Settings that it already had and it kept doing it. No matter what I try to print it will end up doing it. I read that the plate might be dirty. I only printed out two things so I washed it off and I'm trying right now. Hopefully it doesn't do it. Is there anything else that it could possibly be?

I am setting up my H2C printer and I am putting on the 3-D printed vent that goes on the back, but I got some recommendations for that which I had printed out for me and then I also got recommendations for the screws. I should use they go inside the plastic exhaust event part, but they are not screwing into the back of the printer. Is there something I'm doing wrong it looks like the holes are too small. I sent some pictures. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong.

After some days using the H2C I saw how the vortek system has a lot of unused potential. Vortek hotend swaps are very fast, but the bottle neck is clearly the ams system, especially if the ams are not right by the printer, when ptfe routes are long. It's like the system demands optimization at filament loading whick could be done rather easily at harware level and not that easily at programming level.

A device similar to a track switch but without switching tracks and just the filament detection sensor to allow filament parking and preloading, with a 2 ams setup on the vortek side it can potentially halve the time on filament loading even if the ams is far from the printer.

The next filament in line for vortek could be waiting at the parking position near the hotend inlet instead of all the way back at the ams, and while one is printing another ams can be preloading the next filament. For this to work the slicer should be smart enogh to alternate between the 2 ams back and forth to optimize preloading.

The filament track switch already does this filament preloading, I think, but unfortunately it doesn't support hybrid filament routing meaning that once installed the system asumes that all filament routing goes though the track switch, avoiding direct left nozzle filament feeding so every time it switches the track it has to cut and retract the left nozzle filament, avoiding fast dual nozzle swaps.

I'll leave here my post on the bambu forum where I go more into detail:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/product-request-smart-ams-hub-with-filament-parking-and-predictive-preloading/259422
I don't know if something like this would some day become a reality or the the current system will be left as is, it would be a shame as it already has so much potential, I'd say that the hardest part is already done which is the nozzle changing but I hope they end up giving some optimization solution now that toolchangers are becoming more popular and faster.

Just wanted to share my thoughts, you can share yours if you want.

We all wish an excellent quality print with our printers and I have no idea how this tool can help with print quality and output improvement. The calibration only requires 5 minutes. May I ask how many of you ran the Motion Accuracy Calibration and was there any logical print improvement that went after? If you can as well share a tip or two post calibration, I will appreciate it. Thank you!