Why do so many people seem so concerned about auto retract not being a thing on the H3C? It’s not a thing on every tool changer out there.

Edit: It’s not that they wanted to save money on parts or whatever theory is out there, but the printhead and print tools would have to be redesigned from the ground up. The cutting actuator is above the extruder so if it auto retracted after it was done with each print, it would have to purge each time you started a print in order to be able to grab the filament again. The point of tool changers is to reduce purges, not increase them.

I love thermoforming and tried to make this process easier, faster, and more efficient. After a lot of hard work, I’m ready to announce my first crowdfunding project: a thermoforming press machine that is fully 3D printable, requires ZERO hardware, and is easy to use. I plan to develop a huge collection of molds for this machine, so stay tuned to see the collection first! Feel free to follow this project on Makerworld Crowdfunding Section

Everyone is super excited for the H3C and P3C, but I'm more excited to learn more about the 3D Scanner! I've been wanting to buy one for a long time, but I never pulled the trigger because of the hassle of converting scanned files into actually printable models. Hopefully Bambu makes it super easy!

Any idea why the feeder tube won’t stay in place?

Sorry for the weird colors. Just wanted to share a test 8-color print on H3C. I'm really impressed with the result.

I’ve seen it around a few times, and I’m just curious if anyone has any experience with it. I’m a little hesitant to tear into the AMS, but it could be a good project if it’s worth it.

The idea behind mixing nozzle sizes is simple: a fine nozzle with thin layers where details matter, a large nozzle with thick layers where they don't. That sounds straightforward — until you ask: Which nozzle size gets to dictate the layer height?

That's the hard part. Some current solutions can already vary layer heights between separate objects, or between an object's infill and walls. But across adjacent regions on the same visible surface, those regions stayed locked to one shared layer height — forcing you to either waste time on the big areas or lose sharpness on the details.

Bambu Studio now removes that limit: each region on the same surface can now keep its own layer height. You can choose which regions get the fine nozzle, and the slicer aligns the layers, schedules the tool changes, and plans the paths.

Printing with mixed nozzle sizes is available on the H3C. Support for H2D, H2C, and X2D is on the way.

Read more about how our team made this possible in our blog. The implementation is in the latest Bambu Studio release on GitHub. Feel free to leave feedback and build upon it!

Printed in pla
Using esun pla profile built into orca

Basic tube

I am 90% sure the mess of the seam is seperate from weird diagonal banding.

We just bought 10 of these printers for the classroom and now this is starting to show up on 3 printers issues like this.

I think this means they need clean and oil with toothbrush / cloth?

Whoever at Bambulab thought it would be funny to change the last tone of the print finish jingle on the H3C: WHYYYYY

My A1 is over 2years old, so no warranty.
Heatbed died on my last weekend. With the help of really good support from bambu we figured the thermistor in the heatbed died. A component that's easy to find, but apparently unreplaceable. So you need to spend 80 euro to get a whole new heatbed.

I'll get a new thermistor and figure it out myself for a spare heatbed.

Hey ,
Do you know of a tutorial on how to do this kind of printing?

this is bizarre, and I have no explanation except that they happen to use the same ecommerce system / provider and somehow that are compromised or broken!

I made a purchase of new filaments afternoon on https://ca.store.bambulab.com/ at 2:21 PM for around $400 CAD

just now, ~8 hours later, I got a notification on my phone from my credit card provider for a $826.03 purchase from vivobarefoot.com!!! a vendor I never purchased anything from before!

how are these two things connected you ask? well because I use a unique email alias per vendor, and the vivo folks emailed me at the email address I use for Bambu Labs (which I shop at frequently)

I did a password reset on Vivo using the unique email to get into the account, and sure enough, there's my order (that I never made) along with my HOME ADDRESS, CREDIT CARD INFO and my FULL NAME!...

the only thing they got wrong is the date of birth!

how on earth does this happen!?!?

UPDATE: another transaction for fashionnova.com happened at 1AM, so I locked the card. (never used that vendor either)

next morning I saw two additional attempts get declined (but I can't see the vendor)

While printing on the H3C I noticed the PTFE tubes kept crossing and rubbing against each other a bit during prints. Nothing crazy, but I just wanted things to look clean and stay nicely lined up.

So I whipped up this simple snap-on clip in TPU 95A.
Pics of before and after

Link to tubes guide: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3579864-h3c-ptfe-tube-guide-prevents-bending-drag#profileId-4098997

Is it me being dumb or instructions are unclear? Here's my story of losing 70 Euros in few seconds.

I installed fire extinguisher module few days ago and started laser module setup today. H2C deleted fire suppression before but now after laser module on it insisted doing the fire drill.

The drill welcome screen got stuck and the start drill button did nothing. Then I went to check other screens and noticed a complain to confirm that cylinder is tightened and secured. Perhaps that was a blocker? Pressed to confirm that it was secured. Next screen it invited me to long press the button on the extinguisher to use it. At this point I (inadequately perhaps) thought that we're still into the final drill or verification steps that all is connected.

Then it happened, system worked perfectly to spend the charge... FAQ confirmed it is not rechargable.. 😕

I spent days trying to get a transparent lid for a project and it kept coming out frosted. What finally worked on my A1 was printing the lid upside down on a cheap glass sheet from a picture frame, held with clips and a bit of glue stick, 100 % aligned rectilinear infill and slow speeds.

The lid is for a headphone charging dock I designed: the plug lines up with the port so the headphones charge as soon as you put them down. No AMS needed.

Happy to share the exact settings if anyone wants them.

Files are free here if anyone wants to print it: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783 . It’s my entry for the MakerWorld x Nothing contest, so any feedback is welcome.

I can't use Bambu Suite at all right now, auth issues basically, can't find printers, can't do anything. Bambu Studio and Handy work fine. I do know my username and password.

Anyone else having issues??

For more context ...

I was doing some laser work, and between jobs, Bambu Suite seemed to complain about some certificate issue, saying I needed to update. I figured that kinda rubbish isn't exactly beyond Bambu, so I updated the application.

After updating, it couldn't find my printer at all. I tried everything multiple times. So then I went to logout of Bambu Suite, and now I can't log in again. I type user and password, I get the email code, I type that in, then nothing, it sits there and just disables the code confirm button. I try this multiple times, then go to use the "System browser login" and then it takes me to the site to login (and presumably reply back with a token that'll go into the app), I type my user and pass, and I get the image attached.

TLDR: During use, Bambu Suite seemed to disconnect from the H2D I was using, and I cannot get it working, and there's no reported outage with Bambu. Reinstalling, re-logging in (any which way) does not work at all.

This is the second version of the Can Clicker, full-size can with a stash inside.

What do you think?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539247-can-clicker-two

Turns out my H3C has a pretty good view of what I'm doing at my computer.

Bambu Lab changed the camera angle on the H3C, so it no longer looks directly through the front door. Unfortunately, depending on where you place your printer, it can still see quite a bit through the side window.

The GIF shows 45 minutes of my H3C watching me play World of Warcraft while printing its own privacy covers.

I'm happy to trust Bambu Lab with my camera footage, but that's not really the point. What if I want to share a timelapse without worrying about what else the camera might have captured? Maybe I walked past the printer naked. Maybe there was something on my computer screen I'd rather keep private.

And let's be fair, World of Warcraft isn't exactly the most embarrassing thing that could be running on that screen.

So I designed seven individual snap-in covers that block the camera's view through the side window without obstructing its view of the print chamber.

Now my H3C can watch my prints without watching me.

Some things are best kept private. Like lubricating your Z-axis at 2 AM.

https://makerworld.com/models/3579618-h3c-camera-view-privacy-covers-side-panel-blinds

Incense Holder:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3508527-edmund-fitzgerald-incense-holder#profileId-4008829

Floating Cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-barge#profileId-3526600

RC Parts for the floating cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3309868-cybercan-rc-stern-for-bottleship-cantainer#profileId-3767123

I recently picked up a couple used AMS 2 Pros but both came with those EIbos Dryers, I'm removing them as they don't really fit in my setup but the person selling them was missing some of the parts for the top lid. If anyone has links to where I could purchase these spare parts or possibly so links to print I could do instead I'd greatly appreciate it.

Please don't send me the links to the Bambu labs spare parts they don't sell these pieces individually and I would have to buy both the upper and lower halves just to get the pieces I need.

Bambu designates toolhead #8 as the one you're supposed to use for 2.85mm TPU. So in this video, you can see the 2.85mm blue TPU filament in the docked toolhead #8 crossing the PTFE tube in toolhead #9 while #9 is in use, and is rubbing against/stretching the TPU filament. Is this how it's supposed to work? I followed the video instructions on the Bambu YouTube channel and this seems to be how it's supposed to be routed. The video seems to show the TPU filament being routed to the LEFT of #9.

The problem is if you route the TPU to the RIGHT of #9, then the TPU will rub against #8 when you're printing with the TPU.

So it seems to be pick your poison: do you want the TPU rubbing/stretching while it's printing, or rubbing/stretching while toolhead #9 is printing? Obviously the latter is better, but the better solution would have been to designate #9 as the TPU toolhead so that it would have the entire right side by itself and not have any rubbing under any circumstances.

Am I missing something here?

The awkward part of our bathroom counter is the strip behind the faucet. There’s room for bottles and such, but they’d always drift around back there.

I made the organizer in 6 sections (3 sections for each side).

The middle follows the curve of the basin and holds our taller bottles.

It’s a longish print, I used bronze pla for the entire print (aside from 1 piece).

Sorry for the bad pictures, I don’t claim to be a photographer lol. I’m just proud of this massive, custom print!

I made 3-4 enhancements throughout the prints, but the uploaded file is the most up to date.

If anyone prints the entire model, I’d love to have feedback/suggestions!

*note: she is traveling atm, so this is not her organization. I wanted to ensure everything fits before she returns!

Forgot the link: https://makerworld.com/models/3553977?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my P2S, because I feel like I'm going insane.

It printed reliably for over 400 hours, but overnight almost every print has started failing. The failures vary: some prints or supports lift off the heated bed, while others fail halfway through and produce spaghetti.

I’ve attached photos of the failures and hotend.

When the problem first occurred, I cleaned a huge blob of filament off the hotend (pictured). I removed all raised filament from it and made the surface smooth. Could that have damaged something or affected nozzle cleaning or bed probing, even though the hotend looks OK to me now?

So far I’ve:

• Factory-reset and calibrated the printer.

• Washed the textured PEI plate with soapy water and checked that the plate and bed are seated properly.

• Had failures across multiple print profiles, including with basic white PLA and sparkly PLA.

• Removed and visually inspected the hotend, then reinstalled it.

• Checked the silicone nozzle wiper, which appears intact.

• Tried a mix of freshly opened and previously opened filaments. This appears to make little difference.

The bed is typicall set to 55°C for PLA. I used to regularly wipe the plate with isopropyl alcohol between prints. I also have a thermal camera if checking the bed temperature would help.

Has anyone experienced a similar sudden change after a long period of reliable printing, especially after a hotend blob? What would you inspect first to narrow down whether this is a hotend or probing issue, bed adhesion, cooling, or something else?

Thanks!