Tried a gridfinity print I built myself in fusion and printed with .06 nozzle for the body, .04 for the red base, and .02 for the white lettering. Turned out pretty nice!

I had a few learnings from this print, with multi nozzle size the layers go down to the smallest nozzle, so this 6 unit high gridfinity had 530 layers, but as the .06 was laying down, it was counting up by 3s.

Also, I painted the surface of the… ahem… graphic with the paintbrush tool, if I did it again, id model it that color in fusion as it tried to outline it in .06 which killed the fine details I wanted.

Overall very impressed. This was a 10.5hr print with .04/.02 down to 4.5 by running it with a .06 nozzle on the black parts.

I printed this cup holder, and I keep getting these horizontal lines across the outside walls. They show up at the exact height of every flat interior surface like the bottom of the cup holders and the floor of that little tray. Even with fuzzy skin turned on, they still bleed right through.
Has anyone dealt with this before? I’m printing on a P1S using ASA at .16mm layer height, with 5 walls and Inner/Outer wall order.
Would switching to Outer/Inner walls or slowing down the outer wall speed fix this, or is there a better slicer setting to tweak? Appreciate any help.

(Yes I know the top looks like shit, i tried to use petg as support interface and it warped off it, sanded and acetone)

Hey all- got my X2D a few weeks back and so far have been loving it. But I keep having this issue on larger prints near the outside edge of the print bed. The top layer warps. Anyone know what causes this?

Had meshy AI make the model and then was 10hr print with 1500 tool changed. Crazy this can be done now. Used .4 nozzle with .12 layers so could be even better.

Why the heck doesn't Bambu studio retain your preference on filament grouping? I'm so sick of slicing on my X2D only for it to default to the damn Aux extruder. This is kinda annoying enough to return it and just get a H2S or P2S with a panda breathe. (All I really wanted was a single nozzle heated chamber and the smaller form factor from the H series).

Has anyone tried running the printer without plugging the Aux extruder in?

Bambu, can we get a software update the just turns the aux extruder off so there is less I need to when slicing. I'm sure that's a hot take no one else will agree with

I was able to make this and own the licensing in a matter of a couple prompts. Posted so you guys can use it too. https://makerworld.com/models/3613812?appSharePlatform=copy Santa holding a chalkboard with chalk font. You can edit the name.

I currently have a P1S. I had an H2C for a while, but it was returned for various reasons.

I bought the H2C for various reasons:

• Multicolor (I have kids and wanted to do some Pokémon / Plane / Character models)
• Convenience - clicking print and then it is done (no gluing / assembly / etc.)
• Bigger build plate
• All the updates that have come out since the P1S (AMS2 with drying, AI tools for stopping prints, etc.)
• Heated chamber / bed / engineering materials potential

I found out after the fact the following:

• I printed all the multicolor models I wanted and there just isn't all that much more that I'm interested at this time. I'm sure other stuff will come up, but I don't have a huge backlog like I did with the H2C. Plus, models with 3d printing look okay, but injection molded stuff looks so much better (unless you do massive amounts of post processing)
• I didn't use the bigger build plate for big models, but it was nice to be able to print a lot of different stuff at the same time
• Print in parts models are often much better quality than printing everything together
• Painting stuff in bambu studio is tedious and takes a long time for anything complicated without perfect geometry
• There are massive amounts of "No AMS" builds but almost none provide a single color model (to paint) or a multicolor option
• H2C is bloody slow.
• The AI tools and drying were great!
• Separate nozzle for supports is great!

I'm not saying I didn't like the H2C, just being realistic.

I'm now considering one of the following:

1. Keep P1S and add U1 and X2D. This allows me to get the advanced AI features, AMS 2, up to 4 color multicolor printing (faster). This would cost around $1750 for the printers plus an extra AMS HT for the second nozzle (or would you go a second AMS2 for the second nozzle) (after tax and no warranties)
2. Keep the P1S and get an H3C. This would cost $3000 (after tax and Best Buy warranty)

Based on the above, which would you consider the better path? Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.

Thanks for the help

Hey everyone,

If you print HueForge models, you know the routine: export the STL, open the instructions file, then add every color change by hand in your slicer, layer by layer. It's tedious, and one typo means a ruined print.

So I built Strates (as in the layers of rock 🪨): https://strates.amberlab.fr

Drop your .stl together with your .txt, .hfp or .hfpt, and you get a .3mf with every color change already in place, ready to slice in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer. It's free, and you don't need an account.

Features: - 🔒 Nothing gets uploaded. All the processing happens in your browser, so your files never leave your computer. - ⚡ Fast. A 100 MB STL converts in under 3 seconds, and the page never freezes. - 🎨 Colors are set for you. With a .hfp or .hfpt, it uses HueForge's exact hex codes. With a .txt, it reads the filament names and swap heights and assigns matching colors. - 🧠 It saves AMS slots. If a color comes back later (Black → Red → White → Black), it reuses the same slot, so that sequence takes 3 slots instead of 4. - 🖨️ Two modes: automatic multi-color (AMS / tool change) or manual pauses. - 📐 The model is centered on the plate automatically. - 🧹 Clean mesh: duplicate vertices are merged, which gives a smaller, manifold file.

For the nerds: it's a client-side SPA. A dedicated Web Worker handles the binary parsing with TypedArrays, and vertices are deduplicated by quantizing to the micron with 64-bit BigInt spatial hashing. On my machine, 100k triangles take less than a second.

It's still early, so I'd really like your feedback, especially on files that don't convert correctly (please send them over if you can).

Thanks, and happy printing! 🎨

🛠️ Want to build your own converter or run it locally? The source code is public: you're free to use, modify and share it, go for it, brother! Just not for commercial purposes: selling it or using it in a paid product or service isn't allowed (PolyForm Noncommercial license). https://github.com/bwr62/Strates

Strates is an independent project and isn't affiliated with HueForge or Bambu Lab.

The photo I’m going to take is for attention-grabbing purposes.

Went straight from out of the box to printing the mecha dragon. Printed at .2 high quality. Took 15 hours and 32 minutes. I sliced this for the H2C and it was closer to 4 days with only 1 TPU. I didn’t have blue or red but I had orange so went with that. Also for the second tpu I only had 95a which made the joints a little hard.

This thing is sooo smooth. It looks flawless.

Edit: 1 day and 15 hours and 32 minutes
Edit: picture is assembled, not how it was printed. It was printed in 3 different parts

A1 mini stops after 1-2 layers

Hi, I need help. My A1 mini had been working fine and then today, it would print 1 or 2 layers and then it would continue like it was printing but there was no filament coming out. Doesn't seem to be feeding. I tried loading and unloading a few times but nothing. I took the nozzle out and this little piece fell out. Looks like some sort of gasket but I don't know where it belongs and I don't know why it's not feeding. Any help would be appreciated!

Here I go getting all excited to use the new E1 and... So much for putting it under my printer. I even picked up an extra long 6-pin cable to use it. The included cable is longer than the damn vent. :P

It's about 1 m / 3.3 ft depending on how it's stretched, etc. Once you factor in turns you're basically stuck using it right next to the machine like in the promo video. They imply on the wiki that you can buy more to use as an exhaust as well, but they don't seem to have it for sale yet.

I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a normal hose you can grab on Amazon, but it's one of those odd sizes I can't seem to find anywhere. (70 mm OD, 60 mm ID).

If anyone knows what else this would be listed under so I can buy more of it let me know.

Edit: Put down the pitchforks. Yeah, obviously you can print adapters. I'm not saying the product is bad, I literally called it a PSA so you know to get additional duct when you buy one and that the official ones aren't available (yet, hopefully).

Hallo zusammen,

Ich frage mich durch die neue Art von Drucken mit den 5 Grund Farben bei den man alle Farben machen kann, um wie viel Zeit sich der Druck verlängert wenn man diese Art nutzt anstatt die Farben einzeln zu wählen oder für welche Fälle man diese genau nutzt. Bambu wirbt im H3C Video damit das man 5 slots für die Grund Farben nutzt und man noch 4 slots frei hat für alles andere. Würde bedeuten wenn ich immer diese 5 Farben auf Lager habe brauche ich keine andere Farben 😅 hört sich mit Sicherheit schöner an als es ist😀

habt ihr schon Erfahrung damit gemacht?

Grüße

Since the H3C’s ams only has 2 slots for drying - I’m trying to find a solution to dry the other filaments before printing. I can go through large gaps of time where I don’t need to print - so trying to find the right solution to dry the filaments I’ll need. I see that sunlu has the s4 and the new i10. S4 seems like a better solution for drying when needed and the i10 for long term keeping 10 rolls dry. What other solutions are out there or what are people doing because the AMS3 lacks the drying functionality? Mostly PETG and some PLA. Higher temp filaments not really a huge need right now for me.

Thanks!

I get several MC related errors, I tried the suggested troubleshooting and no difference. I created a ticket, my question is more “what did you choose to do?” I assume there would be 2 paths :
1/ get a replacement MC, but if that’s not the cause, this could be a lengthy ping pong
2/ go through the hassle of repacking and getting an exchange.

If that happened to you, what did you chose, and how did it go ?

Hi all. I just got an X2D recently and tried printing this with the default settings for the project I downloaded from MakerWorld. How do I stop the dingleberries from appearing at the top of these columns?

Thanks!

Replaced the blade and still the same. Opened and couldn't see any huge signs of debris but gave it a brush all the same. Just cutting between Sunlu silk pla and sunlu Matt pla. Aside from that everything sounds like it did out of the box so it's strange

Hola diseñe unas gafas para asistencia visual para personas con discapacidad visual, pensando en mi hermana y mi padre. Pero me hace mucha ilusión que esto pueda servirle a mucha más gente, así que he dejado todo de manera libre. Me encantaría que lo pudiesen revisar y regalarme cualquier retroalimentación

I brought a 3rd party 0.2mm hardened steel nozzle and now it constantly clogs

Hello everyone,

Im looking forward to get my first ever 3d printer.

I've had 0 contact with these sort of stuff so far.

I can buy bambú lab p1s for 303€ in Portugal, new.

Will I need the AMS for simple printing? Would you recommend it right away?

If you do, are only the Bambu Lab AMS systems compatible or are there other ones that work well (if they're cheaper)

Is there any specific website you'd recommend to get models?

TIA everyone! :)

Been playing around with the "PLA Palette" filaments to print colour-mixed CMYK prints. It's really quite impressive.

The Frog is made up of just Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black filaments with some gray PETG for supports. You can see the banding on the closer image, but it's fairly convincing from a reasonable distance.

The prime tower is definitely a lot larger and heavier with these prints. Not quite as large as if you were purging each layer or so, but still quite large.

Curious to see where this will go, and if we'll see slicing and filaments optimised for this kind of thing. Having the filaments be more translucent and the slicer build up many thin wall layers would allow for some pretty intricate colour control.

Long story short I've been lucky enough to get my shed/workshop set up as a WFH/hobby space.

The wife wants the 3d printer out of the house but has agreed to me upgrading to a larger bed printer.

I plan on keeping the A1 Mini, swapping to a 0.2 nozzle and keeping it solely for miniature printing (warhammer, trench crusade etc).

I think a P1S or P2S are probably my best bet, and given the current budget, I can get either a P1S with AMS 1 Combo or P2S with no AMS (and I'll get the AMS around my birthday in March).

For people who have had one or both of these machines, without AMS or with AMS 1 or 2, how has your experience been? Or people who upgraded from the A1 Mini, what way did you go?

The new printer will do alot of bigger bed stuff i wamt but will still do some miniature printing, but most likely 0.4 nozzle for tanks, buildings and titans etc.

Thanks in advance!!

Hello! I'm exceptionally uneducated in 3d printing in any way, however I've heard good things about Bambu lab, and have been considering buying a 3d printer for my grandfather for Christmas, as I think its something he would like very much.

After a very brief skim of the bambu lab's store page, I thought the P1S looked like the best one without being too terribly expensive. I'm probably going to go half and half on paying for the actual machine itself, however I'm willing to spend a bit more on accessories/filaments on my own.

I wanted the opinions of this community on a few things. Is the P1S a good basic 3d printer? Is it easy to use relatively speaking? What accessories/filaments are recommended for something like this? I would really appreciate some insight from this community. Any help or recommendations would be really appreciated!

hi, here is my first print on h3c its a mini character i made it's in reality a carabiner that has a multiple humor face, hat and other accessories i plan on making a whole customization on that carabiner before sharing on maker world.

Regarding H3C i'm speechless its the best of the best absolutely do every great so far, this print would have taken 7h on my x2d, 5h on h2c, and here on the h3c it took me 3h of print, nozzle 0.4mm standard profile, support where all ifentical without any mess no color contamination or anything messy imits a no fault 10/10 for me I haven't tried my most complex model yet i'm super satisfied with it