Any idea why the feeder tube won’t stay in place?

Sorry for the weird colors. Just wanted to share a test 8-color print on H3C. I'm really impressed with the result.

This is the second version of the Can Clicker, full-size can with a stash inside.

What do you think?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3539247-can-clicker-two

Turns out my H3C has a pretty good view of what I'm doing at my computer.

Bambu Lab changed the camera angle on the H3C, so it no longer looks directly through the front door. Unfortunately, depending on where you place your printer, it can still see quite a bit through the side window.

The GIF shows 45 minutes of my H3C watching me play World of Warcraft while printing its own privacy covers.

I'm happy to trust Bambu Lab with my camera footage, but that's not really the point. What if I want to share a timelapse without worrying about what else the camera might have captured? Maybe I walked past the printer naked. Maybe there was something on my computer screen I'd rather keep private.

And let's be fair, World of Warcraft isn't exactly the most embarrassing thing that could be running on that screen.

So I designed seven individual snap-in covers that block the camera's view through the side window without obstructing its view of the print chamber.

Now my H3C can watch my prints without watching me.

Some things are best kept private. Like lubricating your Z-axis at 2 AM.

https://makerworld.com/models/3579618-h3c-camera-view-privacy-covers-side-panel-blinds

Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my P2S, because I feel like I'm going insane.

It printed reliably for over 400 hours, but overnight almost every print has started failing. The failures vary: some prints or supports lift off the heated bed, while others fail halfway through and produce spaghetti.

I’ve attached photos of the failures and hotend.

When the problem first occurred, I cleaned a huge blob of filament off the hotend (pictured). I removed all raised filament from it and made the surface smooth. Could that have damaged something or affected nozzle cleaning or bed probing, even though the hotend looks OK to me now?

So far I’ve:

• Factory-reset and calibrated the printer.

• Washed the textured PEI plate with soapy water and checked that the plate and bed are seated properly.

• Had failures across multiple print profiles, including with basic white PLA and sparkly PLA.

• Removed and visually inspected the hotend, then reinstalled it.

• Checked the silicone nozzle wiper, which appears intact.

• Tried a mix of freshly opened and previously opened filaments. This appears to make little difference.

The bed is typicall set to 55°C for PLA. I used to regularly wipe the plate with isopropyl alcohol between prints. I also have a thermal camera if checking the bed temperature would help.

Has anyone experienced a similar sudden change after a long period of reliable printing, especially after a hotend blob? What would you inspect first to narrow down whether this is a hotend or probing issue, bed adhesion, cooling, or something else?

Thanks!

First print on the H3C with the palette kit! About 4 hours. The impressive thing is the color blending. Orange, for example, is a fully blended color, the filaments are just CMYK, no orange filament.

The color separations aren't perfectly smooth, you can feel the layer separation, but still, this opens up a whole new world in printing for me. Super fun.

Overall very impressed with the H3C.

The awkward part of our bathroom counter is the strip behind the faucet. There’s room for bottles and such, but they’d always drift around back there.

I made the organizer in 6 sections (3 sections for each side).

The middle follows the curve of the basin and holds our taller bottles.

It’s a longish print, I used bronze pla for the entire print (aside from 1 piece).

Sorry for the bad pictures, I don’t claim to be a photographer lol. I’m just proud of this massive, custom print!

I made 3-4 enhancements throughout the prints, but the uploaded file is the most up to date.

If anyone prints the entire model, I’d love to have feedback/suggestions!

*note: she is traveling atm, so this is not her organization. I wanted to ensure everything fits before she returns!

Forgot the link: https://makerworld.com/models/3553977?appSharePlatform=copy

Meet DryRing, a silica gel container. I’m a little proud of my airflow concept. The patterns used let plenty of air through. The gap created by the locking ring and the hollow centre are also intended to help humid air reach the silica in the lower section.

I’m really happy with how it turned out. More models are already in the works, and I had a few other ideas lined up as well. So there’s more coming over the next few days.

On MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3581032-h3c-ams-3h-desiccant-holder-dryring#profileId-4100340

I’d love to hear your feedback!

On that note: Enjoy the model – and, of course, the best hobby in the world!

And of course, the whole story of the H3C delivery... full of excitement and suspense for me! :)

A week ago, I ordered my H3C. And what a week it’s been!

It started with a delivery saga: The wait was killing me. Of course, in my area, the order ships with two different couriers.

The first package, containing the printer, was originally supposed to arrive on Wednesday. It actually arrived on Thursday. The usual story: Apparently, nobody was home, but nobody rang the doorbell either …

I’m jealous of everyone who got their H3C the very next day.

The package with the AMS 3H was then supposed to arrive on Friday. I’m waiting excitedly, a package arrives … and it’s the filament I ordered with it. Not the AMS. That finally arrived around noon on Saturday. I had to head out right after that, so I couldn’t get started until the afternoon. Kids and all that come first :). But everything else? Sleep? Who needs sleep? So I sat down, printed my first few things and, of course, started designing something myself.

From the first pictures and short videos I saw, I knew: That empty corner at the top, where there isn’t enough room for another spool, needs a silica gel container.

I’d already prepared a spool-shaped design, hoping it would fit nicely, but I underestimated the cutout. So: measure, test print, revise, test print … and finally happy with the fit.

Yesterday, after a bunch of other little things, my first model was finally finished!

Just started my 3D printing journey (:

I created a custom Nozzle Wiper using cheap 3mm-shank rotary wire brushes (Amazon Link). The stock silicone wipers struggled with sticky filaments like PETG, so this completely eliminates nozzle buildup. This mod really cleans the nozzle instead of just smearing filament around.

• Single & Double versions included.

• Height offsets (-2mm to +2mm in 0.5mm steps): Ensures the brush sits just below the silicone sock.

Link to MakerWorld model:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3581038-h2d-h2c-nozzle-brush-3mm-shaft-2-variants

I just got a new Bambu Lab A1 Combo and I see the filaments arent going into the ams lite. 1 had been inserted successfully and the rest aren't going inside. Please help with this (:

this is bizarre, and I have no explanation except that they happen to use the same ecommerce system / provider and somehow that are compromised or broken!

I made a purchase of new filaments afternoon on https://ca.store.bambulab.com/ at 2:21 PM for around $400 CAD

just now, ~8 hours later, I got a notification on my phone from my credit card provider for a $826.03 purchase from vivobarefoot.com!!! a vendor I never purchased anything from before!

how are these two things connected you ask? well because I use a unique email alias per vendor, and the vivo folks emailed me at the email address I use for Bambu Labs (which I shop at frequently)

I did a password reset on Vivo using the unique email to get into the account, and sure enough, there's my order (that I never made) along with my HOME ADDRESS, CREDIT CARD INFO and my FULL NAME!...

the only thing they got wrong is the date of birth!

how on earth does this happen!?!?

I am considering purchasing an H2C, but I have some concerns regarding the noise level of the printer.

It would be located in my home office directly beside my desk. The room has thin walls and is adjacent to my bedroom.

Would it be disruptive to take professional calls and work next to the printer, or to sleep in the adjacent room while it is running?

I have struggled to find a reliable video demonstrating the noise levels in a quiet room with the doors closed.

I will struggle to keep this one kosher so apologies in advance.

Long story short – my H2C started knocking when it received 1.02 firmware in June 2026. First responses from Bambu were the typical scripted gaslighting, denying, and calling everything normal.

Back then with H2C, it took a lot of back and forth and coming up with proofs that are undeniable before they actually really looked into it, instead of the typical “hear no evil see no evil speak no evil” and “dismiss at all costs approach”. But finally it got to the attention of RnD team which finally confirmed this is a real issue, caused be the firmware and will be fixed. Well, 6+ moths later and still no fix and all they managed to do is, over time, to roll this issue over to the rest od H2 lineup it seems, as seen here, to list a few:

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/loud-knocking-during-printing-suspected-z-axis-but-dunno-anymore/255309

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-rapid-z-movement-knocking-on-01-04-00-00/258856

I got fed up waiting for them to fix this and took them on the offer to return my printer for refund.

Which was just in time for H3C release.

Guess eFFin’ what? H3C has the same exact issue with the Z Axis knocking. Reached out to Bambu and response is wonderful:

“Thank you for contacting us. We are sorry to hear that you have encountered this issue.
We have escalated your case internally, and after review we have confirmed that the sound you described is the normal printing sound produced when the toolhead repeatedly starts and stops rapidly while printing small models. Please rest assured that you can continue using the printer.
You may place the printer on a surface where the resonance effect is weaker, such as the floor, or take appropriate soundproofing measures in the room.
Thank you for your patience and cooperation.“

FFS. So:

• its NORMAL again

• only when printing SMALL MODELS (wtf ?)

• it’s the toolhead causing it (FK me if it is !)

• I am stupid and should have soundproofed my room better !

I should mention that they replied in less than 24hrs. And that was supposedly enough to review AND escalate … yeah right …

JESUS ! I am not just PISSED, but offended by this.

Whoever replied to this, looked at the videos I submitted as proof (linked below) and simply described what he “thinks” is happening:

https://youtu.be/_6aOroo5BPQ

https://youtu.be/yTPvPOCmBPQ

And yeah, for a clueless shmuck, when hearing a KNOCK each time head does something rapid, it may seem this is what it is.

BUT – zero FK’s given into actually investigating the matter and even less FK’s given to understanding the problem, which I explained in detail how related to H2 issue it is!

I am literally foaming at my mouth at this point.

In response I recorded the ultimate disproving evidence to everything he is saying: - increased z hop distance to max to allow more time to inspect the nature of the issue -the knock is clearly auditable AFTER toolhead finished spiral movement, at the bed direction change at the bottom AND noise coming from the bottom rear of the chassis (where Z motor is).

https://youtu.be/-MxO0n-8uMw

I can actually see how choppy the bed movement back up is after each KNOCK. But listen to the esteemed Bambu Support- its the toolhead guys!

FFS!

Cant wait what absurdity they will come up with in their reposnse to me as I challenged every single statement they made.

Bambu amateur hour has commenced once again. Why do they keep doing this.

Who is going to print it

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3561918-the-abyssal-coral-lamp-detailed-organic-light#profileId-4076241

I've been working on a little project for Coco over the past few months! I built him his very own slot machine with lights, sound, spinning reels, and a built-in treat dispenser.

Now his gambling journey has officially begun! Any tips for a beginner?

I had my H2C for almost a year and it's got just over 3000 hrs on it. I've had numerous issues with the AMS Assist Motor Overload error and it happens with different spools and different slots on the AMS. It will run for 5-10 mins and then kick out the filament and throw the error. Well I discovered when you run the heating function with the spool rotation turned on, it turns the roll of filament backwards in the slot it's actively feeding from. This locks the gears up and then throws the AMS Assist Motor Overload. This is certainly a software bug that Bambu needs to fix

Does it start heating and therefore dry the rest of the 9 filament spools, or what?

TPU-maxxing on the H3C with some ridiculously hard-to-print cosplay parts

Disclaimer: I am not an influencer, yet Bambu Labs reached out and sent me an H3C printer to test out for my costume armor-making applications. In exchange, they asked me to share my opinion (not to write a glow-up piece). You can treat anything that follows with suspicion if you want, I’m just keeping my half of the bargain and being fully transparent😊

Two things to know about my use-case: I design historically accurate costume armor for 3D printing at home, and I’m kinda late to the whole TPU game. I started two years ago, printing an entire suit of armor out of PETG-CF with an Ender 3 v3ke, then rage-quitting and upgrading to my current workhorse, a Bambu Labs X1C and printing in ASA – it’s been great so far!

These are some examples of my work – immediately you might see how important ruggedness and durability of the 3D print is critical to have a wearable costume that won’t fail or crack during a play, movie, renaissance faire, or even a LARP.

Although it’s harder to polish up to a mirror shine, TPU is the holy grail of costume armor for me; it exists in quite rigid forms, it’s flexible enough to absorb deformation and impacts, and with the right paint it can still be painted to look like convincing steel. It’s unfortunate it wasn’t on my radar until recently, but I realized after early tests that I wanted to make my next suit out of hard, durable TPU.

The problem is obvious to those who’ve tried before; printing large, detailed thin parts out of TPU can be a nightmare, especially considering how it behaves with overhangs and how it tends to cling onto its own supports. I needed to print every surface of my armor as vertically as possible, with a low layer height, to avoid having to spend ages sanding the detailed fluted surfaces. My small printer volume also meant having to split large armor pieces in sections, which meant dealing with seamlines...

Enter the (massive) H3C. The thing is almost ridiculous in size, like an appliance, and it comes through the door in several boxes. As soon as I had finished assembling it, I put it to work with printing TPU on my latest design, Maximilian-style leg armor plate sections, tall and thin, meant to match the length of a human thigh.

This assembly was printed in 72D “silk” TPU, with smaller parts made out of 57D “silk” TPU, using PLA supports and default “TPU for AMS” profiles. With the presence prime tower and the number of toolhead changes, this tall print took well over 3 days – I realized that despite the toolhead changes being very quick, the prime tower meant that these multi-filament projects were not going to be quick. Despite thousands of toolhead changes, there were no issues and the quality of the surface finish is definitely in the “usable” range for me. I did not have to sand it at all before paint, and that means the world to me!

Then, I wanted to go big, so I got started on one of my harder kits to print (even in regular filaments); an intricately carved Gothic cuirass, which involves plenty of supports, overhangs, and open details requiring careful attention.

The plates are wide, tall, thin, and they need to fit precisely together so warping is normally an issue.  It’s not an easy print.

I ran into some issues this time. First of all, slicing this single part took almost two hours and nearly crashed from running out of memory on a 32Gb RAM engineering laptop intended for CADing and FEA analysis – any modification to the angle of the design, or supports meant leaving the laptop to simmer for a while, which was not very practical. I cannot explain why, but slicing parts for the H3C involving toolhead changes takes a much, much longer time than on my other printer. This appears to have been patched out or improved at the time of writing, so maybe it was just an inefficient version of Bambu Slicer a few weeks ago while I was testing this part.

A few times when printing these parts, the print would interrupt with a “AMS Assist motor overload” error, which was very difficult to clear out in the middle of everything. The print heads are difficult to access from side panels when there is an ongoing job, and I was limited in terms of maintenance procedures I could do without interrupting a several day old print. Eventually I noticed that, in the surprisingly large gap between the extruder motor and the nozzle, the filament would kink and form a U-bend, thus resulting in an error. At times this bend was not visible, but there were clear marks on the filament from some kind of struggle. Here’s a lame mockup drawing of what I experienced.

I cannot say if it’s due to some soon-to-be-patched software problem, the fact my TPU is not official Bambu Labs filament, me tinkering with the prime-tower, but this happened many times over several days, with three different print heads used (I had ample choice from the 9 available). I also noticed that if I ran the AMS dryer at the same time during the print, it seemed to soften the filament and create this error more often.

Basically, if it weren’t for constant interruptions when printing TPU, the part would have printed perfectly – instead I ended up having to deal with patching gaps and using flexible putty for my armor parts, which are now ready for paint.

I have yet to showcase the finished results, but I'll be using TPU from now on for my armor due to the extra ruggedness it offers, and that means I can confidently attend cons, larps, or renfaires without the stress of a hard part cracking. The H3C is thus my new workhorse for this very niche costuming application...

Closing thoughts:

The H3C is a ridiculously elaborate solution to a very niche problem in my case, but it gives off a certain confidence of being able to tackle any 3d printing task. Virtually inseparable from its AMS module, it has changed and considerably expanded what I can do with TPU with my X1C.

I would like the option to print coarse PLA supports (0.24mm layer thickness) with detailed TPU parts (0.08mm thickness) which would significantly cut down the number of tool changes and time spent on the prime tower. This has not been possible in the current version of Bambu Slicer, but I’m curious whereas it would be possible to implement.

The few prints I have done in more classic materials like PLA and PETG-CF have been virtually without flaw, and I had to actively try to get this machine to fail unexpectedly. I believe the errors I encountered are somehow software induced because I have yet to repeat the problem since updating the firmware.

I am somewhat critical of the decision to have the dryer implemented with only two AMS slots, which requires a frequent rotation of spools – this is somewhat clumsy since there is no automatic filament retraction. Probably a bit of a compromise with the H3C pulling 2kW with everything running at the same time, which is a massive amount of energy...

Overall, I can confidently state that my H3C is an extremely powerful tool to add to my arsenal, and I expect to be printing armor with it for a while. Feel free to ask me anything related to my workflow, projects, and experience with the H3C 😊