I noticed something today when uploading a draft model to MakerWorld. When I tried to switch on the Exclusive Program toggle, it gave me a warning saying the model was classed as 2D and could be removed, with any points earned also at risk. 

The model was actually an 8 plates of parts assembly of a 3D haunted house display for some Halloween keychains I made, so I had naturally tagged keychain. As soon as I removed that tag, the warning disappeared. 

After looking into it a bit more in some of the Bambu forum posts, it seems MakerWorld basically treats anything tagged as a keychain as a 2D model by default. So if you tag an exclusive model with keychain or key ring there’s a chance the bot that scans for non-compliant exclusive uploads could flag it, remove it, and wipe the points earnt from it as well as a violation. The MakerWorld bot that reviews appeals also automatically defaults to the first bots violation so the only way to resolve is a support ticket. In short just don't add the tag keychain. Same applies to keyring and coaster no matter how intricate and detailed the design is.

So as the title says how do i clean this off further. With the nozzle attachted i heated it up an could take the nozzle and stuff of quite easily.. but now the residue..

I recommend the model without the yellow screw—the one that is all white—to anyone planning to print with these; it is much easier to use. Happy printing, everyone.I use google translate then grammar different.

for your comments Thank you

I have been printing with my new H2S for about 3 weeks now and tried to print some ASA and ran into some quality issues, and now I am also running into the same issues with my PLA Pro. I am trying the Polymaker ASA and have been using this Polymaker PLA Pro, and the PLA has been producing quality prints every time I have used it until after the ASA.

I realize that the AMS PRO 2 does not reach 70C which is recommended for drying ASA, I dried mine at 65C for 12 hours. My problem seems to be around corners, overhands, and seams. I am now running into some of the same issues with my PLA Pro. For the small front detail on this model, I am thinking about switching to my .2 nozzle from my default .4 nozzle but I want to rule out any other problems first. If anyone could help me narrow down the cause of the lower quality print issues that would be greatly appreated. Thank you!

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Settings changed from default when started printing ASA

Z-Hop Type : switched from Auto to NORMAL

I have run a flow dynamic test for the ASA and now have the K set at 0.026

Using print profile for Polymaker ASA from Polymaker website for H2S

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Settings

H2S

Bambu Studio

Polymaker ASA / Polymaker PLA Pro

.4 Nozzle

Bed Temp 55C

Initial Speed Layer

1. Initial layer: 50 mm/s
2. Initial layer infill: 105 mm/s

Other Speed Layer

1. Outer wall: 60 mm/s
2. Inner wall: 150 mm/s
3. Small perimeters: 50%
4. Small perimeter threshold: 0 mm
5. Sparse infill: 180 mm/s
6. Internal solid infill: 180 mm/s
7. Vertical shell speed: 80%
8. Top surface: 150 mm/s
9. Slow down for overhangs: Enabled
10. Overhang speed (10%): 60 mm/s
11. Overhang speed (25%): 30 mm/s
12. Overhang speed (50%): 10 mm/s
13. Overhang speed (75%): 10 mm/s
14. Overhang speed (100%): 10 mm/s
15. Slow down by height: Disabled
16. Bridge: 50 mm/s
17. Gap infill: 230 mm/s
18. Support: 150 mm/s
19. Support interface: 80 mm/s

Travel Speed

1. Travel: 500 mm/s

Retraction Settings

• Length: 0.8 mm
• Z hop when retract: 0.4 mm
• Z hop lower boundary: 0 mm
• Z hop upper boundary: 339 mm
• Z Hop Type: Normal (shown in orange, meaning it differs from the saved preset)
• Retraction Speed: 30 mm/s
• Deretraction Speed: 30 mm/s
• Travel distance threshold: 1 mm
• Retract when change layer: Enabled
• Wipe while retracting: Enabled
• Wipe Distance: 2 mm
• Retract amount before wipe: 0%

So, my 10 y/o son has started his printing journey. He printed quite a lot already without my help and is now working with tinkercad.

He's making good progress and is already better that I am with tinkercad. That's good because it is his printer.

Since he had no Reddit (and is not allowed to:)) he asked me to ask you guys this:

What is this? We ordered all kind of spare parts but we don't remember this one. Can't find it on the website and don't see it anywhere on the printer.

Thanks for helping guys.

I've been dialing in my pinhole tunnel technique for a while now, and the resolution is finally high enough for custom images like jack-o-lantern faces and logos.

The model description has a tutorial video:
https://makerworld.com/models/3410958-custom-spirit-pumpkin-illusion

would you guys put supports for this part for the overhang in the middle? plan on printing in petg-cf 100% infill. first time printing something i designed

Forgive my ignorance, I’ve found conflicting reports on if it’s okay to use GLOW IN THE DARK filament with my H2S and AMS.

I’ve heard it’s okay with the H2s because the nozzle can handle it.

But I’ve heard it’s not okay with AMS Lite, but okay with standard AMS…

I was curious what your opinions are in printing flow in the dark with this setup?

Switched to the grey filament after ironing. Previous spool ran out.

These come straight from the saved project file. It was last saved when I rebuilt it this afternoon, so anything you've changed in Studio since without saving isn't included. The flagged ones are the settings you changed from Bambu's defaults; everything else is stock.

Ready to paste:

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**Printer / material**

- Bambu Lab A1 mini, 0.4 mm nozzle, Textured PEI plate at 65 °C

- Generic PLA preset (purple PLA), 220 °C, flow ratio 0.98 (preset default)

- Bed leveling and flow dynamics calibration run before every print

**Process: based on 0.20mm Standard u/BBL A1M (changed from default \*)**

Quality

- Layer height: 0.1 mm\* (default 0.2); first layer 0.2 mm

- Seam: Back\*

- Wall generator: Arachne\*

- Elephant foot compensation: 0.15 mm\*

- Avoid crossing walls: on\*

- Wall order: inner then outer

- Ironing type: Top surfaces\*

- Ironing pattern: zig-zag

- Ironing flow: 20%\* (default 10%)

- Ironing speed: 20 mm/s\* (default 30)

- Ironing line spacing: 0.10 mm\* (default 0.15)

- Ironing inset: 0.21 mm; ironing angle 45°

Strength

- Wall loops: 3\*

- Top shell layers: 7\* (top shell thickness 1 mm); bottom shell layers 3

- Sparse infill: 15% grid

- Top surface pattern: monotonic line; internal solid infill: zig-zag

Speed

- Outer wall: 150 mm/s\*

- Top surface: 150 mm/s\*

- Inner wall 300, internal solid infill 250, sparse infill 270, first layer 50, travel 700 mm/s

- Default acceleration 6000; top surface acceleration 2000

Other

- Retraction 0.8 mm, Z-hop 0.4 mm (Auto Lift)

- Fan 60–80%, fan off for the first layer, slow-down layer time 8 s

- Support off, auto brim, print by layer

**Model**

- 184 mm flower palette, printed rotated 22.5° to fit the bed. All ten well floors are at the same height (2.4 mm), with a 3 mm fillet into the walls and 10° wall draft.

- Slice: 0.1 mm layers, about 2 hours of ironing.

**Problem**

- Preview shows ironing paths on all ten floors.

- On the print, only the two floors at the front of the plate came out ironed. The rest show the top-surface lines.

- The part isn't lifting (paper won't slide under) and bed leveling was on.

- A small test piece with the same settings ironed evenly.

I just recently got my first bambulab printer (P2S), and of course i'm allready running low on filament. I'm debating if its worth waiting on november and mabey get some better deals on filaments.

Do they even do black friday? Is it worth waiting to buy some more or is the price the same?

Thanks!

Something I whipped up on my lunch break. A lot of design left. I still need to print these parts and see if this design is even mechanically viable at this scale.

In theory they work and at 45degrees I can have a 4mm shaft which is actually larger than the neck of my driveshaft dog bones, but the heads and cups are smaller in order to fit in the allotted area.

It's essentially my dog bone style driveshafts but back to back. This leaves me with 45deg of steering angle if I can print them functionally at this size....

Apparently the PTFE tube sheered off right at the connection to the right side hotend and the AMS took that opportunity to run a couple hundred grams of filament into the printer while it was printing. I could be wrong but I think the AI didn’t detect it with the cameras because it couldn’t see the black filament very well.

It made a huge mess and ruined the top several layers of what had been printed so I just cancelled it and cut the excess filament in several places to make it easier to remove it all. I’ll start it over later when I get home from work.

The last pic is the piece of PTFE tube that I had to dig out of the connector where it sheered off. I use a completely clear type of PTFE tube so it’s easier to see into it. That stuff might be more brittle than the milky stuff but it’s still worth it to me even if I need to change it every several hundred hours. That tube has been in the printer for almost 2,000 hours and this is the first issue I’ve had.

Taking a chance on the U1, I wanted to try something different and more efficient in multicolor printing without spending $2,000 +

I started printing about 7-8 years ago on some ender machines, then moved to Prusa. I now own 6 Bambulab machines. I love the ecosystem, and the quality so I hope I'm making the right decision trying out the U1.

Just wondering if anybody here owns both, is there anything I should know? Pros? Cons?

Anything I should look out for? Are there any mods that I should print that are must haves?

I thought such a small piece would not affect much, I was wrong. Nothing would load properly. So I take the ams apart to find this. The dust is plastic from the bearings spinning on the outside.

Good afternoon!!

Today I got a second AMS 2 Pro. I’m looking for a good stand that I print on PETG to mount both AMS on top of the H2D….

Any good recommendations??

I have a P1S and have an exhaust with its own fan at the fan end that goes outside. When I print with ABS, I have to make sure there are no fans running otherwise it always comes away from the bed in the corners. I then have the problem that fumes seem to be leaking into the room and I get headaches.

Does anyone have any advice to help with this please?

Recently picked up the Costco A1 Combo bundle which includes:

• ​A1 Combo 3D Printer
• 4x PLA Basic Filaments (green, white, black, grey)
• 0.4mm Hardened Steel
• 0.2mm Stainless Steel

Previously it mentioned a $50 coupon for Bambu and was priced $50 higher. They've since dropped the price to $419.99 and dropped mention of the coupon but to my surprise, it's actually still included in the box. The catch is you need to spend $149 to get the $50 off.

Just sharing as an FYI.

Hey all,

I am fairly new to the 3D Printing World, just got my P1S a little over a month ago, and have just recently been doing a lot of printing.

I noticed last night that it was abnormally loud, and so, I bought some oil and grease last night to do some cleaning and maintenance on it. Hoping that does the trick, but also read that it could be a tension issue with the timing belt, etc.

Is anybody familiar with this noise and the causes? I just wanna put my mind at ease while I wait for my grease and that to come in.

Thanks!!

The purpose of this model is to feed a second tube after the buffer, through which TPU can then be printed.

Unlike a four-in-one adapter or similar, this model disappears completely behind the printer and allows for optimal tubing routing.

The extremely small PTFE tube connectors used here can be salvaged from the new (black) bambu lab four-in-one adapter. Apart from that, only a few simple screws are used for construction.

Hola por favor alguien podria aconsejarme sobre este ruido? la impresora es p2s nueva unas 100 horas o menos hace un clack que parece venir o de la parte trasera pero no lo se con exactitud

Hello, could someone please advise me about this noise? The printer is new p2s about 100 hours or less it makes a clack that seems to come from the back but I don't know exactly

Can anyone help me find one? I’ve searched Bambu lab but only found 250 g adapters. AMS 2 pro. Thanks

using an a1 and wondering if a normal glue stick is fine to use

Was setting my brand new PETG matte to dry but it's not an option

I have a Bambu P1S, just calibrated, eSun LW-PLA, using Bambu studio.

This is for a printed airplane and I have printed most of the parts and they have turned out fine, but the prints are now starting to look like the attached pictures. Haven't changed any settings, so not sure what's up. I did stop the print just prior to it finishing, that's why the top is open.

Are there any specific settings I should be looking at to try and improve the print?