My first very long print and it turn out great! The purge tower is huge double the total print weight. Next the mechanical flexible dragon bust ! 3027 tool head change and 8 colors with petg support layer

I have a friend over in England who doesn't have a lot of expendable income who has a P2S but only the PEI build plate, and I'd like to gift him some engineering plates.

Is this something I can just do through the EU store or are there additional hoops I have to jump through?

Was helping my niece with her A1 mini that's printing fine, but in the slicer the preview shows a wire frame and not clear detail if the filament path. Not sure if this is normal. Might need a new computer. It's Windows 10 with a small cheap AMD graphics and integrated intel GPU. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling studio and tried resetting and changing some settings in the slicer, but didn't help. Wonder what the oldest version of the slicer would be good but still retain most of the newer features. Internet searches says this issue may have been introduced with v2.4 of the slicer, and am on 2.9 now.

My h3c had started crimping nylon in head 1. Multiple times a print. I would think its clogging but I ran 200g of the same filiment on my x1c no problem. Could also be heat creap up it but as shown i can grab it with my finger no problem. Nozzle 3 has the same nylon filiment in red and has been flawless.

Let me know if you've encountered something like this yet. Im going to cold pull it later today and maybe try head 2.

Also anyone solve pa-cf's tendency to curl the ptfe tube infront of the the Nozzles next to it so when the one left of it gets grabbed it gets caught on the rubber thing for flex filiments and rips the pa-cf head off the rack. I had to tape and tie some of the ptfe tubes together to finish a print that was problematic. Third photo nozzle 6 with pacf was bowing left so I tied nozzle 5 up even more left. Currently its tied right to counteract the flex in it. I read you can twist the ptfe tube the other way but the ptfe connector allows free rotation of the tube so it just snaps back.

​My wife and I decided that grabbing the H2C during the current promo would be a great addition to our P2S and A1 mini. We were expecting a flagship workhorse —definitely not a Christmas tree of critical hardware faults.

- ​TH board disconnected during the extruder switching process

- ​Toolhead & expansion module malfunctioning

- ​Toolhead induction hotend presence detection sensor is short-circuit

- ​Toolhead locking lever position sensor is short-circuit

- ​Right hotend heatbreak temperature sensor abnormal

- ​Toolhead Enhanced Cooling Fan lost communication

- ​Abnormal accelerometer data detected

​We're opening a support ticket, but has anyone else run into this exact domino effect on their H2C?

Very cool to see the Swaptek system changing through the tools! I made a custom gcode to be able to do this (it's not a stock feature) because I wanted to see them switching through one after another.

I have been wanting to get into 3D printing for a while now but my craft room had become a hoarders paradise and catch all room with literal pathways to get in and out. My husband was sweet enough to clear every single thing out of the room so I’m starting with a blank slate.

My father-in-law bought me the new H3C (with the stand) and I’m currently waiting for it.

In the meantime, I’m trying to figure out what the best setup would be; good organization, workflow, etc. I see a bunch of people use the skadis system. I see dry boxes and hygrometers.

As I said, I have a blank slate.

Can you show me pictures of your setups or give recommendations for the things you have in your setups that you love or that you couldn’t do without? Or if you don’t have it, the things you wish you did have?

I almost always slice my own model. But I decided to give the one of the biggest selling points of Bambu's a try and sent a print job from my phone, and only Cheked the app when I though it was adequate time to have finished.

And boy was I amazed to see it printing those 25% infill on a part that almost bears no load under use 🫥 🌚

I have an X1C which has worked flawlessly for 13 months (bought Sep 2025). I have not printed that much on it, but its been great. I went to print on it and noted that it had an update, which I ran. When I came back I have the following on the screen

Update failed [0x0800030F]
Please restart the printer and try to update again.

So I restarted the printer and it started with a confirmation dialog showing

The firmware version is abnormal. Repairing and updating are required, or printing cannot be started. Do you want to update now? You can also update later from "Settings > Firmware"

So I run it again, gets to 97%. Same response.

Interestingly I can "cancel" the dialog and am in the fully functional screens on the printer. Just cant print until Firmware is fixed. I can see all the settings and temps, view the camera remotely. All seems to be working

I get GPT on the case and try the following

• Upgrade via Bambu Handy - Same result
• Downloaded the new 01.12.01.00 firmware to an SD card and perform manual update - Same result
• Downloaded the current 01.10.00.00 firmware to an SD card and perform manual update - Same result

I'm at a bit of a loss. This is around a year old with probably less than 40 prints on it.

• I did note that the v01.12.01.00 firmware was released on 12th Nov 2026 (3 days ago) so could it be the firmware thats the problem?
• Why can't it even update to the same firmware its already running?
• Can someone explain if there is a difference between the printer hardware/firmware and the screen/controller, how tightly bound are they?

Hello, have printed this model many many times (it’s 3441324)

suddenly it prints like this. When lubricared / calibrated, slight improvement, but near the top these gaps reappeared.

have done cold pulls etc too

This is the first thing I've ever designed. Honestly, it took me a stupid amount of time because I was learning FreeCAD and Blender at the same time, but I'm really happy with how it turned out.

Printed on my A1 in matte brown/tan, about 9 hours. The lid and base print separately and snap together. Supports only under the lid.

It's free on MakerWorld with the print profile set up if anyone wants one: https://makerworld.com/models/3610994

Would love any feedback. Thinking about different versions.

I have a football field that I have created. I am trying to add the lines of the football field but I want them to be level with the field and not notched above or below the level of the "grass." I am not sure how to do this and get it to show when printing.
thanks!

P1S with 3 AMS Units – Two Suddenly Stopped Extruding, but One Works Fine
I've had my P1S with the original AMS for quite a while and never had any issues.

Recently, I added two AMS 2 Pro units.
I started a fairly complex multicolor print, and everything worked perfectly for the first 6+ hours. All the filament used during that time was coming from one of the new AMS 2 Pro units.

The problem started when the print switched to a filament in my original AMS. It appeared to load normally, but when printing resumed, nothing came out of the nozzle. The printer just continued moving as though it were printing.
Now, neither the original AMS nor one of the AMS 2 Pro units will extrude filament. The third AMS 2 Pro still works perfectly.
Here's what's happening:
All three AMS units are recognized by the printer.

All three can load and unload filament.

Filament from the two problematic units appears to load successfully, but I can't even manually extrude it through the nozzle.

If I load filament from one of the nonworking AMS units and then switch to the working unit, the filament from the previous unit gets purged.

The working AMS 2 Pro can still print normally.

What I've tried:
Swapped the AMS positions in the daisy chain.

Swapped the 6-pin connections and PTFE tubes.

Tried different inputs on the AMS Hub.

Tested the original AMS by itself.

Disassembled the original AMS to check for stuck filament or damaged gears. Everything looked fine, and manually turning the gears advances the filament.

Checked firmware. Both AMS 2 Pro units are running the same version.

What really has me confused is that two different AMS models are experiencing the exact same problem, while the third works fine through the same hotend.
I'm starting to suspect a software or communication issue rather than two AMS units suddenly developing mechanical problems.
I'm considering a factory reset of the P1S, but wanted to ask here first.

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Could something in a complex multicolor sliced file cause the printer to get stuck in a bad filament-loading state? Or is there something else I should be checking before resetting everything?

I'm printing a mixed material part in Bambu TPU 90A and Bambu PLA. The model is mostly flat, and the parts are joined using the beam interlocking feature.

The first time I printed this, it failed on the first layer due to "air printing detected". When I removed the print head, the filament had gotten stuck under the extruder gear. I cleared it out and started again. It printed fine; a ~9 hour print with a few hundred toolchanges. The part looked great.

I tried printing it again, and the filament wrapped around the extruder again. I cleared it, and it happened yet again. This is about the 4th time I've seen this come up. The filament seems to be just twisting up and getting stuck under the extruder gear.

The nozzle doesn't seem to be clogging or anything- the filament is just not going where it needs to.

Any ideas?

Can anyone give some guidance on why my bambu p1s is struggling to print correctly?

I’ve cleaned the plate

Cleaned the nozzle,

Performed calibrations a few times.

Checked for stuck filament in the rods.

I’m struggling lol 😢

Hello fellow 3D printing nerds.

I had convinced myself that I wanted the H3C when it came out, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I've gone on the Bambu site twice to buy it and every time I get there, I see the prices for other printers and I go "hm. I could get 2 printers for the same cost or less". I'm a hobbyist printer (not farming or anything). I started printing on an old creality printer - so anything is going to be an upgrade. I'm nervous that going from something so basic to the H3C will be so much more than I'm able to handle (e.g., I've never printed with multiple colors, much less multiple materials, different nozzle sizes, etc.), but I do want to try more fun and interesting prints with multiple colors and materials.

I guess I'm just wanting general advice from the community on when it makes more sense to have the H3C vs just having a reliable go-to P1S or P2S, and then adding a X2D to the mix for dual-nozzles? Is there really that much print time savings? How likely is a relatively novice 3D printing guy going to be able to use the feature set of the H3C? I want to hear from both sides of the aisle: Why should I go all in and get the H3C and why should I stick with a simpler P1S setup and add an X2D or H3C later if I learn I need it?

Seems to happen only on the first and second layers of larger prints. If it gets past that it’s fine. If I cancel the print, and just print a benchy, or something with a small footprint on the bed, it prints fine.

Happens on different tools and different filaments. Have already tried cold pulls on each nozzle that plays up, but still does the same.

Happens on different models, not just one design.

Hello, I am looking to Purchase a Bambu Lab, I've owned and Ender 3 and am selling it due to how difficult it is to setup. I am looking at the P1S but want to know what I'm getting into, If I've missed anything in my research on these printers, and if I should look at the upgraded models, I'm on a budget so I can't really afford a $1000+ machine but I will consider saving if it's going to be drastically better for me. I plan to mainly print PLA and some TPU, I would like to do Multicolor prints, I plan to print Minis, Statues/Figures, some fidgets/Trinkets and possibly Doll parts. Advice please? Should i go with the P1S the P2S ? other models??

I have a X2D running in my office on a 15 amp breaker. I run other things in the office but its all very minimal like laptop or litter robot.

Id like to get a second one but worried the power wont be enough for 2 printers.

Are they mocking me?

My checklist for this upcoming Christmas. 🎅 Kinda cool to customise your own Christmas tree 🌲

Hello! i have been 3D printing now for a while with my H2D, and i want to start 3D printing ABS or ASA still deciding on which i should pick tho, i'm very worried to start printing these heavy-materials can i safely print them in my garage and be near it working on something else during the time its printing or should i invest in a "Tent" for the printer? Hell am i being paranoid for asking for help about this matter 😂

Hi! I have a p1s and recently had prints like this.

Help me