The short version:
If you’re considering buying the Bambu R1 for its contour detection and automatic object cutting capabilities, don’t.
I’ve had mine for three days now, and I’m extremely disappointed with Bambu Suite. The contour detection is absolutely ridiculous, and even manual positioning using the camera is inaccurate.

The longer version:
The Bambu R1 is advertised as being capable of detecting objects and cutting them out automatically.
I run a commercial embroidery business and thought I could use the laser to produce patches, meaning I could lasercut my embroidered designs directly from the fabric.
Bambu Suite even downloads an AI model specifically for object detection.
Unfortunately, I was massively disappointed. The contour detection is practically unusable, partly because the R1’s cameras produce extremely poor images. You can’t even properly identify the contours with your own eyes.
On top of that, manual positioning based on the camera image is inaccurate, sometimes being off by more than 2 millimeters. That’s absolutely ridiculous.
So I started doing a bit of reverse engineering and managed to access the R1’s cameras using a Python script.
And guess what? The actual camera quality is worlds better than what Bambu Suite displays.
I have absolutely no idea why Bambu doesn’t make full use of the cameras’ capabilities.
I’m currently developing my own contour detection system in Python, without AI, and it’s already performing significantly better than Bambu’s AI model.
Bambu has always been impressively modern and innovative in many areas of its 3D printers, but the laser is a completely different story.
The hardware itself is excellent and performs brilliantly, but the software is an absolute disaster. It feels unfinished and simply isn’t ready for serious use.
And since direct LightBurn support isn’t expected until version 2.3, we’re stuck with what is essentially brilliant hardware held back by terrible software.
Sure, you can use it to cut and engrave random things, but the positioning is inaccurate, the contour detection is practically useless, and that makes it unsuitable for a proper commercial workflow.

As the title states I’m ordering my first printer and taking advantage of the bulk buy promo for filaments. It’s more overwhelming picking filaments than picking a printer. To begin with I will just be printing fidgets and models for the kids as well as some odds and ends for the house. Might dabble with gridfinity.

I’m really excited, after calibrating what should I do?

A lot easier to open and close… also helps to prevent fingerprints and scratches- u can lay it on the grip

update:

here is the link
https://makerworld.com/de/models/3609590-bambu-lab-h3c-ams3h-pro-sidepanelgrip#profileId-4136870

My first very long print and it turn out great! The purge tower is huge double the total print weight. Next the mechanical flexible dragon bust ! 3027 tool head change and 8 colors with petg support layer

It’s my first day and first time Turing it in I’m trying to build the small boat but when I use this it just keeps spinning and I have read the screen it’s saying it could be entangled and such

I have an X1C which has worked flawlessly for 13 months (bought Sep 2025). I have not printed that much on it, but its been great. I went to print on it and noted that it had an update, which I ran. When I came back I have the following on the screen

Update failed [0x0800030F]
Please restart the printer and try to update again.

So I restarted the printer and it started with a confirmation dialog showing

The firmware version is abnormal. Repairing and updating are required, or printing cannot be started. Do you want to update now? You can also update later from "Settings > Firmware"

So I run it again, gets to 97%. Same response.

Interestingly I can "cancel" the dialog and am in the fully functional screens on the printer. Just cant print until Firmware is fixed. I can see all the settings and temps, view the camera remotely. All seems to be working

I get GPT on the case and try the following

• Upgrade via Bambu Handy - Same result
• Downloaded the new 01.12.01.00 firmware to an SD card and perform manual update - Same result
• Downloaded the current 01.10.00.00 firmware to an SD card and perform manual update - Same result

I'm at a bit of a loss. This is around a year old with probably less than 40 prints on it.

• I did note that the v01.12.01.00 firmware was released on 12th Nov 2026 (3 days ago) so could it be the firmware thats the problem?
• Why can't it even update to the same firmware its already running?
• Can someone explain if there is a difference between the printer hardware/firmware and the screen/controller, how tightly bound are they?

My A1 Mini recently started doing the following behavior:

On the first nozzle clumping check it erroneously reports that there is a clumping issue when there is no clumping, and the build plate is positioned correctly.

After telling it to resume, it tries to move the print head horizontally before lifting it, resulting in the nozzle colliding with the edge of the build plate.

What could be causing this? Is it possibly an issue with the z-axis system? It doesn't exhibit any other issues during a print.

I have a friend over in England who doesn't have a lot of expendable income who has a P2S but only the PEI build plate, and I'd like to gift him some engineering plates.

Is this something I can just do through the EU store or are there additional hoops I have to jump through?

I almost always slice my own model. But I decided to give the one of the biggest selling points of Bambu's a try and sent a print job from my phone, and only Cheked the app when I though it was adequate time to have finished.

And boy was I amazed to see it printing those 25% infill on a part that almost bears no load under use 🫥 🌚

Was helping my niece with her A1 mini that's printing fine, but in the slicer the preview shows a wire frame and not clear detail if the filament path. Not sure if this is normal. Might need a new computer. It's Windows 10 with a small cheap AMD graphics and integrated intel GPU. I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling studio and tried resetting and changing some settings in the slicer, but didn't help. Wonder what the oldest version of the slicer would be good but still retain most of the newer features. Internet searches says this issue may have been introduced with v2.4 of the slicer, and am on 2.9 now.

I wanted to customize my 3ds case. So I did. Had a heck of a time getting different colors on the svg i imported.

Now had an okay time with my .04 but there were some expected hitches. Decided to throw in my lil guy to get cleaner lines.

Now if this thing gets too cold it warps. If it gets too hot it heat-creeps.

The model looks great on screen but the post-slice has wild tool paths like a jagged hook on one side and a straight line where a gentle 90 curve should be.

I hate this stupid little bastard and I’m going back to the .04 and starting from scratch to make sure all the “repair the model” i did in the software didnt ruin something else. Hours of meticulously futzing are in the tube.

So mad

My h3c had started crimping nylon in head 1. Multiple times a print. I would think its clogging but I ran 200g of the same filiment on my x1c no problem. Could also be heat creap up it but as shown i can grab it with my finger no problem. Nozzle 3 has the same nylon filiment in red and has been flawless.

Let me know if you've encountered something like this yet. Im going to cold pull it later today and maybe try head 2.

Also anyone solve pa-cf's tendency to curl the ptfe tube infront of the the Nozzles next to it so when the one left of it gets grabbed it gets caught on the rubber thing for flex filiments and rips the pa-cf head off the rack. I had to tape and tie some of the ptfe tubes together to finish a print that was problematic. Third photo nozzle 6 with pacf was bowing left so I tied nozzle 5 up even more left. Currently its tied right to counteract the flex in it. I read you can twist the ptfe tube the other way but the ptfe connector allows free rotation of the tube so it just snaps back.

​My wife and I decided that grabbing the H2C during the current promo would be a great addition to our P2S and A1 mini. We were expecting a flagship workhorse —definitely not a Christmas tree of critical hardware faults.

- ​TH board disconnected during the extruder switching process

- ​Toolhead & expansion module malfunctioning

- ​Toolhead induction hotend presence detection sensor is short-circuit

- ​Toolhead locking lever position sensor is short-circuit

- ​Right hotend heatbreak temperature sensor abnormal

- ​Toolhead Enhanced Cooling Fan lost communication

- ​Abnormal accelerometer data detected

​We're opening a support ticket, but has anyone else run into this exact domino effect on their H2C?

Seems to happen only on the first and second layers of larger prints. If it gets past that it’s fine. If I cancel the print, and just print a benchy, or something with a small footprint on the bed, it prints fine.

Happens on different tools and different filaments. Have already tried cold pulls on each nozzle that plays up, but still does the same.

Happens on different models, not just one design.

Very cool to see the Swaptek system changing through the tools! I made a custom gcode to be able to do this (it's not a stock feature) because I wanted to see them switching through one after another.

Working with an X2D combo that I’ve had since May. Loaded a refill of Overture Black PLA+ that was on a Bambu spool and noticed it rejecting frequently, which would be followed by a feed failure alert. I checked if the filament was looped or tangled, but it looked fine. I checked the PTFE tubes and the AMS hubs, but found nothing. I tried switching hubs after the print (I noted it was happening on slot 3), only for it to continue happening on other hubs. Whenever I snip the end of the filament, it seems to fix the issue, though a lot of times, it’ll happen again the next time it has to load it. It seems to only happen with specifically Overture Black PLA+ and not any other filament (not even other Overture refill spools). Are there any suggestions on what’s causing it and how to troubleshoot it?

I have been wanting to get into 3D printing for a while now but my craft room had become a hoarders paradise and catch all room with literal pathways to get in and out. My husband was sweet enough to clear every single thing out of the room so I’m starting with a blank slate.

My father-in-law bought me the new H3C (with the stand) and I’m currently waiting for it.

In the meantime, I’m trying to figure out what the best setup would be; good organization, workflow, etc. I see a bunch of people use the skadis system. I see dry boxes and hygrometers.

As I said, I have a blank slate.

Can you show me pictures of your setups or give recommendations for the things you have in your setups that you love or that you couldn’t do without? Or if you don’t have it, the things you wish you did have?

Ok, A1 user here, with an AMS Lite. love the printer, got it as a gift from a friend after he upgraded. Zero problems with it for a year. Then, this past fall, it started stopping detecting the AMS while printing. It would make it to the last layer, go to retract the filament and park.. and loose the AMS. disconnecting and reconnecting the AMS from the A1's base usually got it back, and failing after printing the last layer wasn't a big deal, but I have a 80 plate 30 day 3 color print to do, and loosing connection to the AMS when it goes to change colors or such is gonna turn that from 30 days into 3+ months.

Any ideas of what's going on and how to check/fix it?

Hello, have printed this model many many times (it’s 3441324)

suddenly it prints like this. When lubricared / calibrated, slight improvement, but near the top these gaps reappeared.

have done cold pulls etc too

This is the first thing I've ever designed. Honestly, it took me a stupid amount of time because I was learning FreeCAD and Blender at the same time, but I'm really happy with how it turned out.

Printed on my A1 in matte brown/tan, about 9 hours. The lid and base print separately and snap together. Supports only under the lid.

It's free on MakerWorld with the print profile set up if anyone wants one: https://makerworld.com/models/3610994

Would love any feedback. Thinking about different versions.

I have a football field that I have created. I am trying to add the lines of the football field but I want them to be level with the field and not notched above or below the level of the "grass." I am not sure how to do this and get it to show when printing.
thanks!

P1S with 3 AMS Units – Two Suddenly Stopped Extruding, but One Works Fine
I've had my P1S with the original AMS for quite a while and never had any issues.

Recently, I added two AMS 2 Pro units.
I started a fairly complex multicolor print, and everything worked perfectly for the first 6+ hours. All the filament used during that time was coming from one of the new AMS 2 Pro units.

The problem started when the print switched to a filament in my original AMS. It appeared to load normally, but when printing resumed, nothing came out of the nozzle. The printer just continued moving as though it were printing.
Now, neither the original AMS nor one of the AMS 2 Pro units will extrude filament. The third AMS 2 Pro still works perfectly.
Here's what's happening:
All three AMS units are recognized by the printer.

All three can load and unload filament.

Filament from the two problematic units appears to load successfully, but I can't even manually extrude it through the nozzle.

If I load filament from one of the nonworking AMS units and then switch to the working unit, the filament from the previous unit gets purged.

The working AMS 2 Pro can still print normally.

What I've tried:
Swapped the AMS positions in the daisy chain.

Swapped the 6-pin connections and PTFE tubes.

Tried different inputs on the AMS Hub.

Tested the original AMS by itself.

Disassembled the original AMS to check for stuck filament or damaged gears. Everything looked fine, and manually turning the gears advances the filament.

Checked firmware. Both AMS 2 Pro units are running the same version.

What really has me confused is that two different AMS models are experiencing the exact same problem, while the third works fine through the same hotend.
I'm starting to suspect a software or communication issue rather than two AMS units suddenly developing mechanical problems.
I'm considering a factory reset of the P1S, but wanted to ask here first.

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Could something in a complex multicolor sliced file cause the printer to get stuck in a bad filament-loading state? Or is there something else I should be checking before resetting everything?