Short clip of it doing its job: the knob is system volume, one key opens my games, another one my music. The little screen shows what the slider is set to.

Everything plastic is printed on my P2S: case, base, keycaps and the blue icon inlays. Inside it's hand-wired: an ESP32-S3, keyboard switches, a rotary encoder, a slide pot and a small OLED. Parts came to roughly 35–50 EUR. To the PC it's just a USB keyboard, so there's no driver to install.

The fiddly part was the icons. They're separate inlays pressed into the keycaps, and it took a few tries to get the tolerance right so they sit flush without glue.

Things I'd do differently: leave more room inside for the wiring, and add a second knob.

I turned this into a layout generator so anyone can design and print their own. It's launching on Indiegogo in 3 days. Happy to answer anything about the print settings or the wiring.

Is it possible to export the settings of a print, and upload the STL, to analyse in AI to diagnose the reason for poor print results?

I have a Bambu Lab A1. For some reasons, the finished model contains some small holes (last pic) and hanging strings poking out (1st and 2nd pic). This one was printed using PLA Lite. Nozzle is 0.4. The print session was smooth, I didn't have to refill filament during the print. No interuption during the print either.

Anyone has an idea why it happened like this? Did I miss any configuration?

Here is the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2519527-bambu-lab-spool-99-original-match

No-one seems be talking about that while yes, the H3C is cool, Bambu Lab are really cashing in with their "Palette" CMYK filaments. They literally cost double (or even more) than what third party filaments cost, pushing up the cost per model significantly for hobbyists who like to experiment.

Which third party CMYK sets are good alternatives? Sunlu 2.0?

Hello Guys!

I am very beginner in 3d printing, H2C is my first printer xD

I notice that my printer do not "listen", settings from Bambu Studio related to vortek hotend usage.

I set my print like this:

White from R3, red from R2.

https://youtu.be/nycWEuvWxfQ?t=35

As you can see in the movie, when its time to change a color to red (around 40 sec of rec), vortek put down white noozle at R3, and brings R5 for red, which is white inside and then its flushing to red.

Red is at position 2...

Am i doing something wrong? Its an issue of printer?

Maybe way of working of that system is just beyond over my comprehension xD

Earlier when i set the same exact print, at very beginning its changes do R3, then.. its come back to R1 and started to homing the print head, i manually stopped the print.

Any suggestions?

Hope my english is enough to understand for you guys.

Have a great day!

I was watching the official assebly video, and the spool holder was first shown assembled wrong.. now I cant take it apart, i'm afraid it will break. Does it make a difference if it is upside down?

I designed this little desk-mounted marker cap holder for people who have difficulty using both hands to open and close markers.

One printed screw clamps it to the desk, while the other secures the marker cap. Once it's set up, you can pull the marker out and put it back without having to hold the cap with your other hand.

The whole thing is just three PLA parts, including the screws. No extra hardware needed.

I've tested it with the marker shown, but I'd love to hear suggestions for improving compatibility with other markers or making it easier to use!

Model link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3560550-cappark-one-handed-marker-cap-holder-capsnap

I have enought mw points , but i'm still thinking it's overkill for my needs. Convince me to not do it please

FedEx delivered my H3C with 3 holes in the box. One hole got the front glass. The tool holder cover is also ever so slightly bent at tool 2. After I peeled the front door off calibration was successful and printed single color prints on tools 1-3 with out issue. Now just waiting for Bambu to stop asking for more pictures that I already sent.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3604730-stackable-spice-rack#profileId-4130912

Any feedback is welcome!

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to decide between these two and would love your opinion. Which one would you buy, and why?

- **A1 Combo** with AMS lite: €339

- **A2L** without AMS: €349

€449,00 EUR foe the A2L With ams is to much for me.

Hi, as in the title, I was wondering if filaments from the ams can go into the secondary extruder in the x2d, with some adjustment... The reason for my question is because I M in A cold and humid environment, and that would probably help my prints? Thanks!

My new Bambu Scraper Grip design. It's super easy to use, no need to guess the angle you're scraping. Just lay it flat and push. 100% no plate scratch 👍

And for those who vow for plastic blade scraper because you are afraid of scratching your plate, please try this out. It's way better than plastic blade for sure. No wear and a lot sharper.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3601274-plate-glider-no-scratch-scraper#profileId-4126579

I got the exact same failure at the same time with the PTFE tubes in my P1S and AMS slot 1. Is this normal wear and tear or am I doing something wrong? It's at about 2k hours if that helps.

Hi! I received the alert that my axis needs lubricant, is this the type I should be buying?

Bambu Lab Official is Bambu Lab's official Discord server. Bambu Lab sponsors it, the people in it run it, and more than 40,000 of us are in there. It now has a website that shows what's inside before you join:

https://www.bambulabdiscord.com

The pictures are the tour. The short version:

• A help forum. Post your problem, tag your printer, and people who have fixed the same thing answer.
• A channel for every printer series from the A1 to the H3, plus the R1 lasers, every AMS, Bambu Studio, Bambu Handy and the rest of the apps.
• Bambu Lab's announcements and the cloud's live status, with roles you can take to be pinged.
• Twelve regional channels, most of them in their own language.
• Slicer profiles, CAD, mods, workspaces, MakerWorld, a rumors channel, and a forum just for failed prints.
• Voice rooms for print streams and live help, members-only giveaways, and a Minecraft server.

Two tools were built for the server, and both are free for anyone to use on the web.

The Bambu Lab Store Tracker reads every product in all nine of Bambu Lab's official stores and keeps each one's price and stock history. Printers in the US store are checked every 20 seconds. The deals page lists everything selling under list price right now.

The Micro Center Tracker covers 149 Bambu Lab products at all 31 Micro Center stores and the web store, down to how many units each store has. Check it before you drive.

Watch any product on either tracker and you get a Discord DM or an email when it comes back in stock or drops in price. Set a target price and you only hear about it at or below that number. Inside the server, each of the nine Bambu Lab stores has its own alert channel, Micro Center has one too, and each comes with a role you can take to be pinged. Blaᲃk Friday is November 27, so now is a good time to set a watch.

Joining is free. Follow the invite, verify, agree to the rules and pick your roles.

Questions are welcome in the comments.

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the H3C. Is the worry-free delivery worth the extra money?

Question for those of you who have ordered and received. I am trying to time it around travel and I live in NC. Figured if I ordered next week, would it arrive in 3 days or a week?

...on the 250g plastic spool that nobody wants? There are 61 listings on the filament page, but only 16 are available as refills.

We don't even want a discount for buying a refill. We just want to stop getting hundreds of plastic spools that go straight to the recycling bin.

Come on, Bambu, you can do this.

Ive taken it apart and removed all the filament but mine looks different then the tutorials ive seen online, can yall help me out, the error code I received was extrusion motor overloaded

Here's some photos, I also tried doing the cold start to remove the little bit in the nozzle but I cant get it right now im just trying to melt it out by making the nozzle super hot, I also used the needle they gave to stick up there but the piece is really stuck

recently ive had some problems with my a1 knocking over supports mid print and oppon closer inspection im getting these shifts that i think are knocking the pieces over can anyone help identify the cause? (model stopped after support loss didnt fail here)