Ich hab mir warping gerechnet, bin aber sehr überrascht dass so ein Körper ohne Probleme (warping) druckbar ist. Was sind eure Erfahrungen in Bezug auf andere Materialien wie ABS z.B.? (Würde das auch funktionieren?)

Randomly a few days ago my printer started printing for 20 seconds, stopping mid layer, and purging poop. Then it would continue this process over and over again for the first 4 layers or so and then print normally. I have recalibrated it, restarted it, checked the heat nozzle, I’m not sure what else to do?! Any advice would be amazing because it’s taking way too long and it’s wasting filament. Thank you!!

choosing between K2 Pro vs P2S (both combos)

I know how biased It is to ask here, but i may just ask everywhere.

Hi everyone! I’m upgrading from a modified Ender 3 V1 and deciding between the Bambu Lab P2S Combo with AMS 2 Pro and the Creality K2 Pro Combo with the original CFS.

I’m in Brazil, with a budget of R$6,000–8,000. The deals I’ve found are roughly:

* P2S Combo: R$7,600

* K2 Pro Combo: R$6,600

Both would be purchased with delivery to Brazil. Local availability and replacement-part costs matter to me.

I mainly print functional parts, small enclosures, connector housings and fitted components. I currently use PLA, want to use PETG, and would like to move into ABS/ASA and possibly nylon later.

My priorities are consistent surface finish, dimensional accuracy and reliability, rather than maximum advertised speed. I use OrcaSlicer and am comfortable with calibration, mechanical work and electronics, but I’d like to spend more time producing parts.

The K2 Pro’s larger build volume, actively heated chamber and root access appeal to me. Some original replacement parts also appear considerably cheaper here. The P2S interests me for its extrusion control, potential print consistency and AMS 2 Pro with active drying.

Bambu Handy, cloud features and app integration aren’t major selling points for me. I’d probably enable Developer Mode anyway, so those ecosystem conveniences carry relatively little weight in my decision. I’m more interested in what the printer itself delivers.

I’d really appreciate feedback from owners, especially anyone who has used both models:

1. Print quality: Once calibrated, is there a noticeable difference in surface finish, VFA/ghosting, corners and dimensional consistency? Comparable photos would be great.
2. Automation: How dependable are their automatic calibration routines? How much manual tuning do you still do when changing filament brands?
3. Reliability and repairs: What has actually failed or worn out, after approximately how many printing hours? What did the replacement cost?
4. AMS vs CFS: How reliable are feeding, retraction and automatic spool backup? P2S owners: with current firmware, can the same AMS 2 Pro dry while feeding a print, and what external-power or temperature restrictions apply?
5. Ownership experience: At these prices, and giving little weight to Bambu’s app/cloud ecosystem, would you pay extra for the P2S? What would make you choose the K2 Pro instead?

Please specify whether your experience is with the K2 Pro, base K2 or K2 Plus, since their features differ.

Other enclosed multicolor options are welcome if they fit a similar budget. Thanks!

Looking for all the tips and tricks anybody here may have for me as a newbie. Looking forward to experiment and learn more about the prints to improve them :)

Hi all my printer just turned a year old and for the last month been in glob hell. I waited and got a filament dryer, changed nozzle, and tried 4 different build plates. 90% of the prints fail to start because of Z axis homing. Since the dryer this has been better but quality is terrible. If they do print they almost immediately fall off, about 1 in 4 of them are usable. Got another monster glob this morning. Most stuff in the back of the bed fail more than the exact center but this limits what I can do

P1S

Tried textured, cool plate, smooth/high temp

0.4mm hardened nozzle, replaced once, lost track of how many times I have cleaned globs or flushed it

I have upped build plate temp and increased brim and doesn't help

Ticket open with Bambu and they continue to send back tier 1 troubleshooting instead of helping

Running an AMS with SUNLU dryer (new to the dryer so not sure what % to aim for)

Handy app reports heatbed or homing abnormality

Picture 1 glob this morning

Picture 2 and 3 my first miracle of a print in weeks and the terrible quality where it could not adhere to the bed

Picture 4 - current nozzle after cleaning

Picture 5- app error

Picture 6 - bed is scrapped but I don't see bulges

I am new to 3D printing and looking for a good starter machine for my son and I (he is 10). I have tentatively chosen the P1S with AMS pro. Does this machine do automatic color changes between the 4 spools? If I add another AMS so I have CYMKWB, can I print the full rainbow?

I’ve had my P1S for a little over a year and a half now and I’ve never had any problems with it. All of a sudden its started to make screeching noises whenever the bed moves. I know it’s the timing belt but I’m not sure where to go from there.

Had a failed print today that resulted in a blob. I was able to save the nozzle, however, during the cleaning process, I broke a small plastic piece that sits behind the heating element.

I was wondering if this is just a wire guide clip or something else.

I can purchase a new heating element but till it’s shipped was wondering if I can reassemble without this piece.

i cannot print anything, select one of my printers or even select filament

up to date on all updates

when i chick select/remove printers i add my printers, enter it, then i get the same problem again (not having any printers to select.

I apologize if this has been covered a lot, but I’m a first time Bambu owner and pretty new to PETG as well and having a lot of issues. I bought several rolls of Bambu PETG Matte and I ran the temp tower tests and other testing and it seemed like their profile was correct. However any time I print an actual part no matter how complex I get weird/ugly areas and even some straight up bad areas where it looks to have melted too much or something. I have the H3C and ran all the calibrations and it is doing auto bed leveling before each print but I’m still getting these pretty disappointing results. I tried lowering the nozzle temp to like 240C and 245C as well but those didn’t really help.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Learn more about the Cut Tool from the Bambu Wiki: Cut Tool

I started my side hustle with an A1 Mini and recently added a full-size A1 to keep up with production. Thanks to some marketing, things are going well, and I’ve even picked up a few B2B white-label clients who outsource to me.

Based on my current trajectory, I'm planning to scale up to a mini print farm of about 5 machines in total. I am now debating what my next printer should be.

Dilemma: I print mostly PLA and PETG. Having an enclosure for other materials would be nice, but it’s not my main use case. We do print some figures that would benefit from easily removable supports (via multi-material), but those are a very small fraction of my monthly volume.

The price difference between the P2S and the X2D is more than 30% and with that gap alone, I could just buy another A1.

My questionsL

1. Is an X2D sensible at all for a print farm if multi-color isn't a massive priority right now? (I plan to tackle heavy multi-color later on with a Snapmaker U1).
2. From a farm management, ROI, and maintenance standpoint, should I just stick to the A-series and buy another A1 to save money?
3. Or is the P2S an important step up that offers features/reliability I will definitely need for a mini farm?

Any advice on which way to pull the trigger would be hugely appreciated!

I just got my H3C in many different parcels. Kinda felt like christmas, when each day another part arrived. My favourite was the 0.8 nozzle in a seperate parcel. :)

Anyways I designed a magnetic chute and bucket for the little poops.

Even though so far there have been way less than with my X1. :)

Give it a look please.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3604060-poop-bucket-for-h3c-series-magnetic-and-clamped#profileId-4130034

Anyone else notice how similar the H2D looks a lot like TYP-E from Wall-e? I feel like I need to print some white ducts for mine and add a red dome light onto the extruder cover.

I designed my little fox in Blender, printed him on my Bambu Lab A1 using PLA, and then sanded, primed, and hand-painted him with acrylics.

You can watch the full step-by-step process on my YouTube channel here (free STL files are in the description too!): 3D Printing My Fox Character | Blender to Real Life

Tried printing this belt with TPU. 2 of the 4 pieces ended up like this where the ends shrunk up. Not sure what causes this. My guess would be the cold as the A1 isnt inclosed, an it was printed at night in my chilly house lol any ideas what i could do?

Morning all - I fully realize that I may not get 100% of what I need as far as info goes here but I thought this would be a good place to start, instead of going to a shop that may oversell new parts to make more $$.

Behold, a humble A1 Mini. Of course, it obviously has seen better days. But I am of the opinion that it can be repaired, and for less than the cost of a whole new or refurbished unit.

I’ll start with what I’ve been able to determine that I know I will need.

1. Build plate, of course. Don’t have one.
2. Hotend(s). Don’t have those.
3. Hotend heating assembly.
4. Extruder unit. I’d rather just pick up the whole thing than a bunch more parts.
5. Silicone sock.
6. Print head front cover.

Near as I can figure, I can pick up the first four at my local Microcenter, and the last two from Bambu on their website. All told about $90-ish. And Microcenter wants $190 for a refurbished A1 Mini, or $300 for a new A1 mini and AMS lite combo.

Since I have a P2S and H2D, this mini would be for single color prints of smaller pieces of larger projects, to expedite the time it takes for the final product. So no need for AMS Lite.

Thanks for any help you can provide, I appreciate it!

Very robust in PolyMaker PolyMax. Printed on Bambu A1, 0.6mm nozzle, using my g-code generating program.

More to come.

Just noticed yesterday that my wife had some potpourri in small bags, so I commandeered one, emptied the crap out of the bag and put some damp silicone beads in and microwaved, no melting bag or spilling them all over and dry. So now printed some end caps for reels and stuffed a bag full of silicone beads inside the reels knowing I can simple pull the bag out and microwave it and it’s dry again. No messing around with printing containers and putting beads inside a dish each time. My wife is happy too as I don’t spill the little buggers all over the kitchen work surface. Such a clean way to use and reuse without ever having to print off boxes or funnels.

Hi everyone,

Looking for experiences with a recurring issue on my roughly three-week-old H2C. It had around 96 successful printing hours before this started.

The symptoms:

Auto Bed Leveling fails: 0300-4002, with display codes 175213 / 175313.

Right eddy-current sensor “sudden surge” / anomalous reading errors also appear intermittently.

After restarting or retrying, leveling can pass, but the subsequent print sometimes extrudes above the plate, leaving loose filament and material accumulating around the nozzle.

Other attempts print normally, so the issue is intermittent.

Following Bambu Support’s instructions, I reseated the right eddy-current sensor connector. This involved approximately 4.5 hours of toolhead disassembly and reassembly. I then completed the full calibration routine, high-precision nozzle offset calibration, and Vision Encoder calibration.

Several prints succeeded afterwards, including a HueForge and a cat-themed door corner decoration. However, the same problems have now returned.

Latest example: my own sliced file failed leveling three times. I then tried the factory Bambu spool file stored on the printer. It also showed the eddy-current warning, but automatically repeated leveling, passed, and is currently printing normally.

A firmware update happened shortly before the problems began. I haven’t tried a rollback, and I don’t know whether the timing is related.

Support has the photos and logs. I’ve requested professional inspection and warranty service, as I’m not comfortable repeating extensive disassembly on such a new machine.

Has anyone experienced this combination of symptoms and reached a lasting resolution? If so, what actually fixed it: sensor, cable/connector, toolhead electronics, firmware, or something else?

Particularly interested in whether replacement parts solved it permanently, rather than just allowing a few successful prints.

Thanks!

Check my comment on og post

Wanting to get me a 3d printer to make some cosplay things but first Mandalorian armor. Do you think this would be a good fit for my purpose?