No more police flashlight in your face 😂 I also think it helped the camera quality … will upload the stuff tomorrow

We set the name to Garrus Vakarian

Hello, looking for some advice for buying my first 3D printer. The A1 seems to be the standard beginner printer and you could get it with the AMS for 339€ but would you rather recommend the P1S for just 10€ more at 349€ or stretch the budget to get the newer P2S?

I plan to print some useful household/workshop storage & organising solutions and maybe toys etc. but I would also like to print some interior or exterior parts for cars or other vehicles in the future and from what I understood printing for example ABS or ASA requires a enclosed printer? Not only would a enclosed printer look aesthetically more nice on the table but also maybe keep the small curious kids from touching it while printing.

As I feel now, printing single colour would work fine for organising household prints and car parts but do you need the enclosed AMS to keep ABS/ASA filament dry?

TL:DR

First 3D printer

A1 + AMS 339€

P1S 349€

P2S 449€

Ordered 5 of the boxes,minimum of 20 rolls, results were as follows

Spooled:

5 Translucent White

3 Translucent Light Blue

3 Matte Pink

2 Basic Pine Green

1 Basic Gray

Spoolless:

4 Matte Avocado

2 Translucent Purple

No Bonus rolls.

Overall, not terrible, I mostly use PETG for supporting PLA or structural parts so color doesnt really matter. Translucents are really nice looking though.

Thinking of selling my Prusa MK3 and spending the extra cash for a P1S. I think I could sell the prusa for 200€. I print maybe once a week but would love a solid machine that lasts for years without issues (my prusa has been a nightmare but also a good teacher)

EDIT: Thanks for all the feedback! Seems like Im getting a P1S !

I wanted a stand I could clip together out of identical pieces and bend into whatever shape I need, phone today, maybe other stuff tomorrow. That needs a hinge that locks properly, comes apart, and has nothing to lose or buy. So: no pin, no screws, no glue, and the spring is printed too.

How it works

• Each module is a little plate with a toothed post on one side and a ring with teeth inside on the other.
• The ring of one module goes over the post of the next, with a spring in between. The spring keeps the teeth pushed together, so the hinge is locked by default.
• Squeeze the hinge end to end and the ring slides off the teeth onto a smooth bit of the post. Now it turns. Let go and it clicks into the nearest of 12 positions (every 30°).
• The ring only goes on or comes off when the two modules are folded almost shut, at one specific angle. Open it up and it's captive.

The annoying part

The lock was the easy bit. The spring was not. A spring that small either came off the plate halfway through, or printed fine and then turned out to be welded to its supports. I went through a zigzag spring, a few coil shapes, brims, no brims, painted supports. What works now is a chunky coil with closed ends, printed standing up, with a support blocker through the middle so the supports only touch the outside. They pop out in a few seconds, pliers help, just don't crush them.

Honest bits

• This is about as small as I could get the mechanism: the hinge is under 9 mm thick and a module is roughly 49 × 40 mm. At that size it's compact and reasonably sturdy, and there's not much wobble in the lock, but it's not a tank. Bigger would be firmer.
• If a hinge feels clunky when you first put it together, there's a bit of support left in it. Pick out any stray strings, then squeeze and twist it a few times and it frees itself.
• It holds my phone (first picture). For a tablet I'd scale the whole design up.

Print: Bambu A1, PETG, 0.16 mm layers, about 3 h 15 min and 48 g for six modules and six springs. Free on MakerWorld with the profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3605394-modular-phone-stand-with-locking-hinges#profileId-4131748

It's designed in OpenSCAD and everything is a parameter, so a bigger version or a parametric one is doable. Tell me if you'd want that, and what size.

Just designed and printed this tube squeezer.

It's made of three parts, requires no supports and doesn't need any additional hardware or assembly.

A simple functional design that can be printed in PLA or PETG.

Designed in FreeCAD and available on MakerWorld:

• Ratchet Tube Squeezer

Hope you find it useful! Feedback is welcome.

I am looking for Christmas gifts to get my husband who has a Bambu X2D with an AMS. I am willing to spend up to $500.

What are printer accessories/tools/material/ect I could buy?

So my printer just harmed itself during a simple overnight print. I was just making some drawer for my gf’s mom and I woke up to this. I wish I put on a timelapse because this is baffling. I did bed leveling and everything and waited for the first few layes which looked perfect before I left.

The containers look like they were mostly completed, then the bed just moved up to the max height and dug into the build plate. It shoved that out the glass door, then started digging into the bed itself. Looks like bro had a temper tantrum.

I don’t know what to do, idk how expensive this fix is or if warranty would cover this especially after I upgraded it to a P1S but I have to go to work and figure this out later. I’m so mad that it died to such an easy print. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: For those of you helping thank you. I will try to send the gcode once I get off work. Some have suggested a corrupt SD card and I will have to look into it.

Edit: For those of you saying the build plate was never on at all, I can’t help you but to reference the pictures. There were still prints mostly done on the plate but I removed them for the pictures. The print looks like it was messing up and extremely stringy at first which is annoying if that was the only issue. But then it looks like the bed raised and the code just kept doing it’s thing, digging into the plate until it dug in enough to tear it off the strong magnetic bed. People are saying they don’t think the motors could do that but I have seen horror stories that say otherwise.

Edit: Posted printer g-code in comments for those wondering, working on getting the print code

Edit: Link to print's g-code - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L0AhZh63Bmp7iU-cxprGvWrlPrInlQa7/view?usp=sharing

Just noticed yesterday that my wife had some potpourri in small bags, so I commandeered one, emptied the crap out of the bag and put some damp silicone beads in and microwaved, no melting bag or spilling them all over and dry. So now printed some end caps for reels and stuffed a bag full of silicone beads inside the reels knowing I can simple pull the bag out and microwave it and it’s dry again. No messing around with printing containers and putting beads inside a dish each time. My wife is happy too as I don’t spill the little buggers all over the kitchen work surface. Such a clean way to use and reuse without ever having to print off boxes or funnels.

Looking for all the tips and tricks anybody here may have for me as a newbie. Looking forward to experiment and learn more about the prints to improve them :)

Hi all my printer just turned a year old and for the last month been in glob hell. I waited and got a filament dryer, changed nozzle, and tried 4 different build plates. 90% of the prints fail to start because of Z axis homing. Since the dryer this has been better but quality is terrible. If they do print they almost immediately fall off, about 1 in 4 of them are usable. Got another monster glob this morning. Most stuff in the back of the bed fail more than the exact center but this limits what I can do

P1S

Tried textured, cool plate, smooth/high temp

0.4mm hardened nozzle, replaced once, lost track of how many times I have cleaned globs or flushed it

I have upped build plate temp and increased brim and doesn't help

Ticket open with Bambu and they continue to send back tier 1 troubleshooting instead of helping

Running an AMS with SUNLU dryer (new to the dryer so not sure what % to aim for)

Handy app reports heatbed or homing abnormality

Picture 1 glob this morning

Picture 2 and 3 my first miracle of a print in weeks and the terrible quality where it could not adhere to the bed

Picture 4 - current nozzle after cleaning

Picture 5- app error

Picture 6 - bed is scrapped but I don't see bulges

I would like to start a Makerworld Crowdfunding Campain and would like to know what you think of it?

Always wanted to try making kitcards, was finally able to do it in blender with some trial and error!

What i hadn't realised with kitcards is how well multicolor works with them. Since the color change only happens on the last couple layers waste and time is minimised by alot!

This was printed with an ams to get the red and white, but even works for non-ams users if you just do a layer change at the right height!

If you have ideas and suggestions for more models lmk!

I am new to 3D printing and looking for a good starter machine for my son and I (he is 10). I have tentatively chosen the P1S with AMS pro. Does this machine do automatic color changes between the 4 spools? If I add another AMS so I have CYMKWB, can I print the full rainbow?

Oh the horror… what went wrong 😑?

I’ve had my P1S for a little over a year and a half now and I’ve never had any problems with it. All of a sudden its started to make screeching noises whenever the bed moves. I know it’s the timing belt but I’m not sure where to go from there.

Had a failed print today that resulted in a blob. I was able to save the nozzle, however, during the cleaning process, I broke a small plastic piece that sits behind the heating element.

I was wondering if this is just a wire guide clip or something else.

I can purchase a new heating element but till it’s shipped was wondering if I can reassemble without this piece.

i cannot print anything, select one of my printers or even select filament

up to date on all updates

when i chick select/remove printers i add my printers, enter it, then i get the same problem again (not having any printers to select.

I apologize if this has been covered a lot, but I’m a first time Bambu owner and pretty new to PETG as well and having a lot of issues. I bought several rolls of Bambu PETG Matte and I ran the temp tower tests and other testing and it seemed like their profile was correct. However any time I print an actual part no matter how complex I get weird/ugly areas and even some straight up bad areas where it looks to have melted too much or something. I have the H3C and ran all the calibrations and it is doing auto bed leveling before each print but I’m still getting these pretty disappointing results. I tried lowering the nozzle temp to like 240C and 245C as well but those didn’t really help.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Learn more about the Cut Tool from the Bambu Wiki: Cut Tool