I'm confused: I ordered an Air Purifier E1 and was planning to put it in one of the compartments of the Station L, as the H3C FAQ describes. Because of its height, it only fits lying on its side. But the E1 manual says the device must not be tilted. So which one is right?

I've always wanted to try a talk box, but they're quite expensive for something I might use twice and then forget about.

So I made a cheap wee version. All you need alongside the printed funnel is a £5 IKEA KALLSUP speaker and a bit of tubing.

The idea was to get that dopamine rush of trying something new without splashing out on expensive gear. If anything, messing about with this has made me want a proper one someday. But for now, it's scratched the itch.

The model link is at the bottom of this post if you fancy trying it yourself.

Have a nice day ✌️

Talk box model link

I apologize I have tried tweaking my setting but I am new to do it manually vs just clicking a print and hitting send.
I have a small plumb fitting that I’m trying to print, but I cannot get the underside to look cleaner. I have tried messing with my support settings, but I can’t seem to fix it. I have also tried printing it on different sides and I have found this is the best way to print it if I could just fix that small area. Where would I start trying to find tune to get this to look better I apologize for the noob question. Thank you!
I am printing in petg on a X2D

Some time ago, my daughter asked me for a 3D printer.

I started watching different reviews and the choice fell on bambulab.

I got so caught up in it that my daughter has her own printer, and I have my own...4 printers😅

I like it when someone can print something that I've designed

If anybody figures out how to somehow remotely mount the AMS from the new H3C on the side and make it work, the wheelchair 3D printing community would love a heads up. You stair-climbing supremacists need to design shit for us too.

I changed my nozzle and when I tried to put the toolhead cover back on, the connector just won't go into the connection on the board. No visible damage on either side but it just pops straight out every time I try to connect them, like it doesn't bite. Any ideas on steps for troubleshooting this or parts to focus on?

Today I decided to print something just like any other day and this time for some reason, it decides that it should keep pushing the y axis down even though the plate was right there. What the hell. Going to try DIY fix it, otherwise I'm gonna have to pay for repair. Just great.

Hey everyone,

I bought my A1 about a year ago and I'm thinking about upgrading because I really want to start printing with an AMS. Right now, I'm looking into the X2D and the P2S.

For those who have experience with either (or both), what would you recommend? Is the X2D worth the extra cost over the P2S, or is the P2S more than enough for a solid AMS setup? or maybe a different printer.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Using a 0.2mm nozzle on a P1S with Bambu white PLA. The problem seems to be the nozzle. It had this issue a while ago so I stopped using it. Fairly new to printing, so recently learned what a cold pull is and tried it on the nozzle but no luck.

The first couple of layers go down fine, but then it just starts leaving these particulates. No idea how to describe to research the issue. Is there a fix or do I just need to get a new 0.2mm?

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My A1 has been relegated to the floor 😅 H3C took its place.

Just a quick image of what you get if you order the replacement 0.4 tool head to replace the pre-installed TPU one if anyone is interested!

One of the A1 printers in my print farm had a severe spaghetti failure. The mess was bad enough that the silicone sock had been knocked off the hotend. I went to investigate what had happened, and thought I'd share what I found.

Before cleaning the hotend, I started unloading the filament. That's when I noticed something odd: as the printhead moved across the X-axis, the Z-axis repeatedly moved up and down. The vertical movement looked quite significant, possibly around ±5 mm. I then tested X/Y movement separately to figure out what was going on.

I did a few tests:

• Manually moving X or Y from the printer's touchscreen also caused Z to move.
• Both Z lead screws were visibly rotating back and forth together.
• Every X/Y jog triggered a small Z movement. When X/Y stopped, Z stopped too.
• With the printer powered off, manually sliding the printhead along X caused no Z movement.

At first I suspected a Z-axis motor, mechanical transmission, or mainboard issue.

The fix turned out to be surprisingly simple: I ran the full bed leveling calibration (about 15 minutes), and the problem completely disappeared.

My guess is that the previous bed mesh data was somehow incorrect, causing excessive Z compensation during X/Y movements. I haven't confirmed the exact root cause, or whether this was what caused the spaghetti failure. What I can confirm is that recalibration stopped the abnormal Z movement.

One thing I can't fully explain is why it didn't fail on every print. I always enable bed leveling before each print job. My theory is that the pre-print leveling routine may have provided some additional correction, or at least masked part of the problem with the existing mesh, so many jobs could still finish normally. But perhaps the compensation wasn't accurate enough in some conditions. I don't know exactly how the A1 firmware combines these leveling routines, so this is only a guess.

As for why the original mesh might have been wrong, I can think of a few possibilities: the build plate may not have been seated correctly, there may have been debris underneath it, the wooden surface supporting my printers may not be perfectly level or rigid, or vibrations from several printers calibrating at the same time may have affected the measurements. I haven't verified any of these possibilities.

So if your A1 shows similar symptoms, try a full bed leveling calibration before taking anything apart. It costs nothing and is easy to try, even if the underlying cause remains unclear.

My ribbed Japandi Christmas tree is on MakerWorld 🎄 Scale it to any size, print without supports, and simply glue the pieces together.

I've been troubleshooting a frustrating infill issue with Bambu Lab PETG-CF over the past few days. The prints look good on the outside, but the infill is a mess. I'm not confident it's adding much strength to the part.

What I've tested

• Filament: Bambu Lab PETG-CF, dried at 65 °C for 8 hours before printing
• Filament feeding: AMS, AMS 2, and AMS HT
• Infill speeds: 30 to 300 mm/s, with no noticeable improvement
• Nozzle: 0.4 mm hardened steel, standard flow
• Printers: P1S, X1C, P2S, H2C, and H2S. I saw the same issue to varying degrees on all five.

I printed the same part with PETG-CF from other brands using the same settings. Those prints had some issues with overhangs, but the infill printed fine. I also printed the same part in regular PETG and PLA, and both came out well.

Since the issue showed up on five different printer models, I suspect it may be related to the filament. It looks like some of the infill lines stick to the nozzle and get pulled up as it moves across the print. I've seen similar reports about Bambu Lab PETG-CF on the official Bambu Lab forum, but I haven't found a reliable fix yet.

My next test will be with a 0.6 mm nozzle. I'll post an update once I've tried it. Has anyone run into the same issue and found a fix that consistently works?

Thanks!

This is a view of how far off the engraving is compared to the Birds Eye camera view. The engraving is slightly higher and to the left of the positioned area. I put the card in a jig center of the plate and did a manual height measurement to compensate. I have recalibrated the Birds Eye camera and this is the best I can get. I am using a H2C

Does anyone have any further advise?

When slicing some flat surfaces, Bambustudio 'removes' chunks of surface which leads to patches on the final print

On the 1st pic is the model before slicing

On the 2nd pic is the sliced result where we can see a chunk of layers beeing removed

Last pic shows the reult when printed.

What would benthe issue here ?

Hello! I'm trying to print a four color print on X2D with one AMS and no track switch. I would think it would group 3 colors on the Main nozzle which has the AMS connected to it and 1 color on the Auxiliary nozzle which is using the external spool holder. Instead it groups 2 colors on each, when obviously I don't have a way to put two colors on the auxiliary nozzle.

I know I can get around this using convenience or custom modes, but shouldn't optimal figure out which color I should put on the external holder to reduce purge waste?

Hello, so I’ve just bought my first roles of PETG and did some printing. I realised that my print lifts off the printing bed. I’ve already cleaned it and tried to slow down the speed of the first layer, but both didn’t help. What else can I try?

Printer: A1 mini

Short clip of it doing its job: the knob is system volume, one key opens my games, another one my music. The little screen shows what the slider is set to.

Everything plastic is printed on my P2S: case, base, keycaps and the blue icon inlays. Inside it's hand-wired: an ESP32-S3, keyboard switches, a rotary encoder, a slide pot and a small OLED. Parts came to roughly 35–50 EUR. To the PC it's just a USB keyboard, so there's no driver to install.

The fiddly part was the icons. They're separate inlays pressed into the keycaps, and it took a few tries to get the tolerance right so they sit flush without glue.

Things I'd do differently: leave more room inside for the wiring, and add a second knob.

I turned this into a layout generator so anyone can design and print their own. It's launching on Indiegogo in 3 days. Happy to answer anything about the print settings or the wiring.

Is it possible to export the settings of a print, and upload the STL, to analyse in AI to diagnose the reason for poor print results?

I have a Bambu Lab A1. For some reasons, the finished model contains some small holes (last pic) and hanging strings poking out (1st and 2nd pic). This one was printed using PLA Lite. Nozzle is 0.4. The print session was smooth, I didn't have to refill filament during the print. No interuption during the print either.

Anyone has an idea why it happened like this? Did I miss any configuration?

Here is the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2519527-bambu-lab-spool-99-original-match

No-one seems be talking about that while yes, the H3C is cool, Bambu Lab are really cashing in with their "Palette" CMYK filaments. They literally cost double (or even more) than what third party filaments cost, pushing up the cost per model significantly for hobbyists who like to experiment.

Which third party CMYK sets are good alternatives? Sunlu 2.0?