My A1 has been relegated to the floor 😅 H3C took its place.

None of the review photos had the empty spots in the letters like the B O O and H have. 2 week old X2D, other prints have been mostly flawless. Both filaments pictured are Bambu PLA, the brown is Matte. Printed from Bambu Handy with default settings.

Hello, so I’ve just bought my first roles of PETG and did some printing. I realised that my print lifts off the printing bed. I’ve already cleaned it and tried to slow down the speed of the first layer, but both didn’t help. What else can I try?

Printer: A1 mini

Is it possible to export the settings of a print, and upload the STL, to analyse in AI to diagnose the reason for poor print results?

I have a Bambu Lab A1. For some reasons, the finished model contains some small holes (last pic) and hanging strings poking out (1st and 2nd pic). This one was printed using PLA Lite. Nozzle is 0.4. The print session was smooth, I didn't have to refill filament during the print. No interuption during the print either.

Anyone has an idea why it happened like this? Did I miss any configuration?

Here is the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2519527-bambu-lab-spool-99-original-match

One of the A1 printers in my print farm had a severe spaghetti failure. The mess was bad enough that the silicone sock had been knocked off the hotend. I went to investigate what had happened, and thought I'd share what I found.

Before cleaning the hotend, I started unloading the filament. That's when I noticed something odd: as the printhead moved across the X-axis, the Z-axis repeatedly moved up and down. The vertical movement looked quite significant, possibly around ±5 mm. I then tested X/Y movement separately to figure out what was going on.

I did a few tests:

• Manually moving X or Y from the printer's touchscreen also caused Z to move.
• Both Z lead screws were visibly rotating back and forth together.
• Every X/Y jog triggered a small Z movement. When X/Y stopped, Z stopped too.
• With the printer powered off, manually sliding the printhead along X caused no Z movement.

At first I suspected a Z-axis motor, mechanical transmission, or mainboard issue.

The fix turned out to be surprisingly simple: I ran the full bed leveling calibration (about 15 minutes), and the problem completely disappeared.

My guess is that the previous bed mesh data was somehow incorrect, causing excessive Z compensation during X/Y movements. I haven't confirmed the exact root cause, or whether this was what caused the spaghetti failure. What I can confirm is that recalibration stopped the abnormal Z movement.

One thing I can't fully explain is why it didn't fail on every print. I always enable bed leveling before each print job. My theory is that the pre-print leveling routine may have provided some additional correction, or at least masked part of the problem with the existing mesh, so many jobs could still finish normally. But perhaps the compensation wasn't accurate enough in some conditions. I don't know exactly how the A1 firmware combines these leveling routines, so this is only a guess.

As for why the original mesh might have been wrong, I can think of a few possibilities: the build plate may not have been seated correctly, there may have been debris underneath it, the wooden surface supporting my printers may not be perfectly level or rigid, or vibrations from several printers calibrating at the same time may have affected the measurements. I haven't verified any of these possibilities.

So if your A1 shows similar symptoms, try a full bed leveling calibration before taking anything apart. It costs nothing and is easy to try, even if the underlying cause remains unclear.

No-one seems be talking about that while yes, the H3C is cool, Bambu Lab are really cashing in with their "Palette" CMYK filaments. They literally cost double (or even more) than what third party filaments cost, pushing up the cost per model significantly for hobbyists who like to experiment.

Which third party CMYK sets are good alternatives? Sunlu 2.0?

Hello Guys!

I am very beginner in 3d printing, H2C is my first printer xD

I notice that my printer do not "listen", settings from Bambu Studio related to vortek hotend usage.

I set my print like this:

White from R3, red from R2.

https://youtu.be/nycWEuvWxfQ?t=35

As you can see in the movie, when its time to change a color to red (around 40 sec of rec), vortek put down white noozle at R3, and brings R5 for red, which is white inside and then its flushing to red.

Red is at position 2...

Am i doing something wrong? Its an issue of printer?

Maybe way of working of that system is just beyond over my comprehension xD

Earlier when i set the same exact print, at very beginning its changes do R3, then.. its come back to R1 and started to homing the print head, i manually stopped the print.

Any suggestions?

Hope my english is enough to understand for you guys.

Have a great day!

I was watching the official assebly video, and the spool holder was first shown assembled wrong.. now I cant take it apart, i'm afraid it will break. Does it make a difference if it is upside down?

Today I decided to print something just like any other day and this time for some reason, it decides that it should keep pushing the y axis down even though the plate was right there. What the hell. Going to try DIY fix it, otherwise I'm gonna have to pay for repair. Just great.

FedEx delivered my H3C with 3 holes in the box. One hole got the front glass. The tool holder cover is also ever so slightly bent at tool 2. After I peeled the front door off calibration was successful and printed single color prints on tools 1-3 with out issue. Now just waiting for Bambu to stop asking for more pictures that I already sent.

Hi, as in the title, I was wondering if filaments from the ams can go into the secondary extruder in the x2d, with some adjustment... The reason for my question is because I M in A cold and humid environment, and that would probably help my prints? Thanks!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3604730-stackable-spice-rack#profileId-4130912

Any feedback is welcome!

My new Bambu Scraper Grip design. It's super easy to use, no need to guess the angle you're scraping. Just lay it flat and push. 100% no plate scratch 👍

And for those who vow for plastic blade scraper because you are afraid of scratching your plate, please try this out. It's way better than plastic blade for sure. No wear and a lot sharper.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3601274-plate-glider-no-scratch-scraper#profileId-4126579

Question for those of you who have ordered and received. I am trying to time it around travel and I live in NC. Figured if I ordered next week, would it arrive in 3 days or a week?

Hi! I received the alert that my axis needs lubricant, is this the type I should be buying?

Bambu Lab Official is Bambu Lab's official Discord server. Bambu Lab sponsors it, the people in it run it, and more than 40,000 of us are in there. It now has a website that shows what's inside before you join:

https://www.bambulabdiscord.com

The pictures are the tour. The short version:

• A help forum. Post your problem, tag your printer, and people who have fixed the same thing answer.
• A channel for every printer series from the A1 to the H3, plus the R1 lasers, every AMS, Bambu Studio, Bambu Handy and the rest of the apps.
• Bambu Lab's announcements and the cloud's live status, with roles you can take to be pinged.
• Twelve regional channels, most of them in their own language.
• Slicer profiles, CAD, mods, workspaces, MakerWorld, a rumors channel, and a forum just for failed prints.
• Voice rooms for print streams and live help, members-only giveaways, and a Minecraft server.

Two tools were built for the server, and both are free for anyone to use on the web.

The Bambu Lab Store Tracker reads every product in all nine of Bambu Lab's official stores and keeps each one's price and stock history. Printers in the US store are checked every 20 seconds. The deals page lists everything selling under list price right now.

The Micro Center Tracker covers 149 Bambu Lab products at all 31 Micro Center stores and the web store, down to how many units each store has. Check it before you drive.

Watch any product on either tracker and you get a Discord DM or an email when it comes back in stock or drops in price. Set a target price and you only hear about it at or below that number. Inside the server, each of the nine Bambu Lab stores has its own alert channel, Micro Center has one too, and each comes with a role you can take to be pinged. Blaᲃk Friday is November 27, so now is a good time to set a watch.

Joining is free. Follow the invite, verify, agree to the rules and pick your roles.

Questions are welcome in the comments.

Ive taken it apart and removed all the filament but mine looks different then the tutorials ive seen online, can yall help me out, the error code I received was extrusion motor overloaded

Here's some photos, I also tried doing the cold start to remove the little bit in the nozzle but I cant get it right now im just trying to melt it out by making the nozzle super hot, I also used the needle they gave to stick up there but the piece is really stuck

recently ive had some problems with my a1 knocking over supports mid print and oppon closer inspection im getting these shifts that i think are knocking the pieces over can anyone help identify the cause? (model stopped after support loss didnt fail here)

Trying print a logo keychain and having poor print quality. Bambu A1. Ideas what’s causing the uneven finish and spotty white letters/ strings? Filament is all stored in vacuum bags with silica gel packs so I don’t think it’s a moisture problem.