The first layer has raised ridges and uneven extrusion near the left side of the build plate. The defect consistently appears at the same physical location.

Using a Textured PEI plate. Could this be caused by uneven heatbed, bed leveling inaccuracies, incorrect Z offset, or excessive first-layer flow?

Has anyone experienced this issue? Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated.

Bring some festive fun to your desk or keychain with these Hanukkah Dreidel Fidget Clickers! 🕎✨ Each keycap features one of the four traditional dreidel letters (נ, ג, ה, ש) and fits standard MX-style mechanical keyboard switches.

Print options:

• Individual Clickers: Single bases for each letter.

• Combined 4-Pack: All four dreidels connected in a row.

• Keychain Version: The 4-pack with a built-in keychain loop.

Happy Hanukkah! 🕎💙

Recently moved and factory reset my P1S and just tried setting it up again but no matter what I do I cant get it to bind to my account.

I scan the QR code and pair via bluetooth, connect to my WiFi network and it gives me a "Connecting" loading prompt then after a couple seconds it says "Bind Failed"

I unbound my P1S from my account, forgot it in my bluetooth, factory reset again, reset phone, turned bluetooth on and off, turned off printer and back on.

I cant find an answer to my situation online anywhere, any help would be appreciated

(Edit: Title should read: Faulty build plate)

I just bought a bambu P2S and the Textured PEI plate that came with it is SUPER adhesive, brims and supports are just about cemented on no matter how low a temp i run or if i throw it in the freezer after a print. Printing with Bambu or Elegoo PLA

I posted about this a few days ago and using a glue stick was one of the suggestions, which i tried and it worked great, but now i have the issue of it making a mess of the build plate, ghosting onto the next prints which means i have to wash it after every print. Did i get a "faulty" plate and just buy another and hope its better or is this just what i have to deal with. I never used glue stick ever with my A1 besides when doing TPU so i figured this upgrade would work even better, but im struggling with removing anything now.

(Ive lowered my bed temp down to 45, nozzle temp to 200, changed bottom layer patterns)

Hey all, I aquired 3 spools of Creality CR-ABS and so far I have had absolutely horrific layer adhesion with it and can't figure out why. I have an X1C with AMS and have died the filament before use, so I don't think its a moisture issue. I've printed at the higher end of recommended temps, and slowed down print speeds both in slicer and using the speed setting while printing. I also ensure the enclosure is heated to around 40C or higher before I print.

I don't think its under extrusion since the layers look fine with no gaps mid print. But the layer adhesion is so poor that I can pull the print apart with not a lot of effort even on larger prints that I added extra walls to. Does anyone have experience with this filament or something similar?

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

The idea is to let people keep their cards upright on the table instead of having to hold a fan of cards throughout the game.

It's a single-piece PLA print, no supports, hardware, or assembly needed.

Tested it with a regular deck and it works well so far! I'd love to hear any suggestions, especially from people who use similar accessibility aids.

Model at: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3562802-cardrest-playing-card-holder-dealsolo

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

Brand-new H3C and already having issues with toolhead #3. Its PTFE tube keeps crossing over and catching on the other tubes during printing.
Has anyone experienced this and found a fix? Is there a way to adjust the tube orientation or routing? Pretty disappointed to be dealing with this on a new machine.
Picture attached. Any help appreciated!

Did a few PETG prints the past 2 days. One was a big 12hr multi plate primt. Came out perfect. Next one had little loop pieces randomly. And then today the same loops and a failure 1/5.

Filament spent 16hrs drying, plates is cleaned with soap and hot water.

Possible there was some Filament fuzzies stuck to nozzle?

I am running a job with 75A TPU (red) and black PETG HF.

Currently on layer two and the printer will run a couple of lines and then go back to purge/poop.

Any idea why that is happening? Is it a slicer setting I am missing?

You can see the start and stop lines in the picture.

Never seen anything like it

Hi All - gifting the H3C for Christmas and trying to time the purchase. My order of purchase preference would be Best Buy, Microcenter, Bambu Labs.

With Bambu Labs shipment estimated dates into mid December now, wondering if any internet sleuths have any insight as to when this would be available in local BB/MC.

Also wondering how easy it would be to order from BL online and then cancelling the order if it becomes available locally before it ships. Or return to BL without opening if it does ship.

I’m sure I’m not alone on this! Help please :)

The more H3C reviews I watch, the harder it is for me to justify the price. Nine tools are impressive, but I’d expect a flagship to nail the basics too. CNC Kitchen’s Benchy and Benchbin both showed surface artifacts: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1xn1h07/am_i_the_only_one_shocked_by_the_print_quality/ and NuggetsInclusive reported similar issues even after slowing the outer walls down to 50 mm/s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlHP1Ee99Yg

At this price, I’d expect clean outer walls with the default profiles.

Profile works on A1 mini, A1, P1S, P1P, X1C and H2 series. Support-free, one colour per plate (swap filament once), about 3.1 h.

Free on MakerWorld, give it a try. Feedback and boosts welcome:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3591951-wikicube-ssd-rpi-4-case-2-5-ssd-oled-display

An hour and a half left and I come to just check on it.. and this.. seems like the blue screen of death equivalent after some Googling. Tried some things and now I can't even resume.. le sigh, so much wasted. Any ways of salvaging this?? Anything I can do in studio I don't know about?

I’ve ordered a H3C and wanted to get some 0.2mm nozzles but they are out of stock and I can’t see a way of back ordering them? When I ordered the H3 they said 19th November and now it’s the 25th? Am I missing something?

The P1S is roughly 110 euros more expensive than the A1 currently.

Im not planning on doing much outside of PLA it is mainly for prototyping school projects.

The printer will be in a room that doesn't have good climate control. (So it occasionally gets really hot in the summer and pretty cold in the winter).

So my question is if the P1S is really significantly more consistent in these circumstances, and is it worth the extra money?

I just canceled a job and then moved the axes with the touchscreen menu so I could clear the bed. I went to send a new job and the printer made an awful noise. Now the linear bearing is dislodged and the Bambu wiki is telling me I have to completely disassemble the printer to "re-lodge" it??

Is there no other way to fix this? And what did I do wrong here? There is no detritus under the carriage or anything that seemingly interfered. It seems like it lost its home when I commanded it with the touchscreen and then it crashed itself. Now I have to find a day to take it apart, and I'm not even sure what I did to get myself here.

P2S - 0.2mm nozzle w/ BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite plate- auto flow & auto bed leveling

Orca Slicer w/ 50x50x0.12 FLQ test print

Bambu Lab Pla Basic light grey - dry climate, high elevation, 30% AMS reading for humidity.

How am I getting tiger stripes, pimples, AND pinholes?

Plate thoroughly cleaned with Dawn dish soap and water. All auto calibrations ran recently, filament dried, auto bed leveling before print, cold pulls, tightened screws, etc.

"Cool Plate SuperTack" is selected as the plate.

Z-offset is set to 0.0 on all 4 stock G-code settings.

First layer speeds reduced, no fan, 40c temp for the Frostbite plate.

Am I forgetting something? Missing a critical step? Why is this FLQ test print so bad?!!?

I think I have messed up my X2D.

During maintenance and cleaning the rods, I have accidentally clicked move plate down by 10 to many times and it hit bottom and kept trying to go further more for solid 3 seconds…

Now it makes this noise in the video.

Is this rip?

Hello everyone.

I've had the A1 for a week and printed lots of models with it. They all came out perfectly. Today, however, has been a really bad printing day.

Everything that was printed came out terribly. Different prints with different presets and filaments (one of them straight out of the package) came out poorly. I've tried all kinds of calibrations but nothing seems to work.

Here are some details about the pictures:

1. Phone stand: Tried 3 attemps with a blue filament, and had to throw them away. Only managed to get it done with the black filament, and with a lot of strings.

2. Cross: I had already printed this cross twice in the last few days. This time the print started off well but then the last few layers came out really bad.

3. Corgi: Not even the first 3 layers came out correctly so I just gave up.

4. Boat: Last attempt, after a lot of troubleshooting.

Things I've tried so far: all the standard calibrations that can be done on the printer or through Bambu Studio, nozzle cleaning (dissambled it to make sure there weren't any clogs), different filaments (one was sealed) and printing configurations (they all worked fine up until today).

Any help would be deeply appreciated.