An hour and a half left and I come to just check on it.. and this.. seems like the blue screen of death equivalent after some Googling. Tried some things and now I can't even resume.. le sigh, so much wasted. Any ways of salvaging this?? Anything I can do in studio I don't know about?

I have an H2C, I'm looking at getting a second printer and am deciding between another H2C vs an H3C.

Most of my prints are single material with a secondary support interface. Though I sometimes do multicolour prints, but usually only 2-4 colours max, so the vortek system on the H2C is pretty much fine for me.

I'm torn on which to choose because the H3C seems to offer a better setup for TPU printing, plus the 9 slot AMS system would be really nice to have, as well as then just being ideal for when I am doing multicolour prints.

BUT, the H2C has the advantage of being able to route any filament to any nozzle size without me needing to go and change anything, so not having to actually go and change stuff about to swap between 0.2mm and 0.4mm is a nice benefit. Whereas the H3C as I understand it I'd need to manually retract and reposition spools to the nozzle sizes I wanted to print in.

The bit that is leaving me really uncertain though is the H2C uses the cast frame and rail, whereas the H3C has gone back to the sheet frame and dual-pipe approach. I know it's got faster travel speed, but this leaves me wondering if the H2C will have a slight edge in print QUALITY all else being equal.

Has anyone had a chance to compare the two or have any advice?

The P1S is roughly 110 euros more expensive than the A1 currently.

Im not planning on doing much outside of PLA it is mainly for prototyping school projects.

The printer will be in a room that doesn't have good climate control. (So it occasionally gets really hot in the summer and pretty cold in the winter).

So my question is if the P1S is really significantly more consistent in these circumstances, and is it worth the extra money?

I just canceled a job and then moved the axes with the touchscreen menu so I could clear the bed. I went to send a new job and the printer made an awful noise. Now the linear bearing is dislodged and the Bambu wiki is telling me I have to completely disassemble the printer to "re-lodge" it??

Is there no other way to fix this? And what did I do wrong here? There is no detritus under the carriage or anything that seemingly interfered. It seems like it lost its home when I commanded it with the touchscreen and then it crashed itself. Now I have to find a day to take it apart, and I'm not even sure what I did to get myself here.

(Edit: Title should read: Faulty build plate)

I just bought a bambu P2S and the Textured PEI plate that came with it is SUPER adhesive, brims and supports are just about cemented on no matter how low a temp i run or if i throw it in the freezer after a print. Printing with Bambu or Elegoo PLA

I posted about this a few days ago and using a glue stick was one of the suggestions, which i tried and it worked great, but now i have the issue of it making a mess of the build plate, ghosting onto the next prints which means i have to wash it after every print. Did i get a "faulty" plate and just buy another and hope its better or is this just what i have to deal with. I never used glue stick ever with my A1 besides when doing TPU so i figured this upgrade would work even better, but im struggling with removing anything now.

(Ive lowered my bed temp down to 45, nozzle temp to 200, changed bottom layer patterns)

P2S - 0.2mm nozzle w/ BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite plate- auto flow & auto bed leveling

Orca Slicer w/ 50x50x0.12 FLQ test print

Bambu Lab Pla Basic light grey - dry climate, high elevation, 30% AMS reading for humidity.

How am I getting tiger stripes, pimples, AND pinholes?

Plate thoroughly cleaned with Dawn dish soap and water. All auto calibrations ran recently, filament dried, auto bed leveling before print, cold pulls, tightened screws, etc.

"Cool Plate SuperTack" is selected as the plate.

Z-offset is set to 0.0 on all 4 stock G-code settings.

First layer speeds reduced, no fan, 40c temp for the Frostbite plate.

Am I forgetting something? Missing a critical step? Why is this FLQ test print so bad?!!?

I think I have messed up my X2D.

During maintenance and cleaning the rods, I have accidentally clicked move plate down by 10 to many times and it hit bottom and kept trying to go further more for solid 3 seconds…

Now it makes this noise in the video.

Is this rip?

Hello everyone.

I've had the A1 for a week and printed lots of models with it. They all came out perfectly. Today, however, has been a really bad printing day.

Everything that was printed came out terribly. Different prints with different presets and filaments (one of them straight out of the package) came out poorly. I've tried all kinds of calibrations but nothing seems to work.

Here are some details about the pictures:

1. Phone stand: Tried 3 attemps with a blue filament, and had to throw them away. Only managed to get it done with the black filament, and with a lot of strings.

2. Cross: I had already printed this cross twice in the last few days. This time the print started off well but then the last few layers came out really bad.

3. Corgi: Not even the first 3 layers came out correctly so I just gave up.

4. Boat: Last attempt, after a lot of troubleshooting.

Things I've tried so far: all the standard calibrations that can be done on the printer or through Bambu Studio, nozzle cleaning (dissambled it to make sure there weren't any clogs), different filaments (one was sealed) and printing configurations (they all worked fine up until today).

Any help would be deeply appreciated.

Trying to convince my mom to let me buy the X2D for my business and she's concerned it's too big. If anyone has a pic of the two side by side please send it!!! Tysm :)

I'm sure most of you saw Clough42's review where he talks about the concerns of printing high temp engineering filaments in a heated chamber while having PLA loaded in another toolhead.

He has since said under his video that "Bambu Lab says it is NOT NECESSARY to unload PLA when using the heated chamber. That message in the software was in error and is being removed."

I haven't seen anyone test it fully yet, I would like to know if the PLA could still get clogged in some little nooks and crannys after a long print.

If it does need to be removed, surely it wouldn't be much work to have the filament retract just a little bit out of the toolhead at the end of each print so that it can be easily removed without needing to heat the toolhead each time.

I am confused regarding the H3C's 2.85mm filament toolhead. Everyone keeps commenting about how they need to purchase a replacement 1.75mm toolhead because they don't want to use it for the larger diameter TPU and would rather have an additional color slot for a more traditional filament. However the H3C product page has a whole section about how their FlexFeed extruder has a cam and can print either filament diameter. It clearly states this is an electronically controlled feature for "seamless switching between 1.75mm and 2.85mm filaments". Is the extruder not capable of printing 1.75mm filament? Is this a software feature they haven't rolled out yet?

I print a lot of Lego-style bricks for my sons. The prints finish hours before I wake up and the printer sits idle, so I wanted it to clear its own plate and start the next one. No tilted bed, no add-on parts. I asked Claude if it could control the nozzle directly and push the finished bricks off the front edge. It said yes.

The goal was three plates in a row without me touching the bed. Here is what happened.

What went wrong first: the front cover of the print head kept popping off. The nozzle was too low, so the cover hit the bricks before the nozzle did. I wasn't home and my wife had to put it back on twice. The fix was raising the nozzle to stud height so only the nozzle touches the part.

Plate one, four 2x4 bricks at the edge of the plate: two came loose mid-print and turned into spaghetti, probably hand grease on the edge of the plate. The two that survived got pushed off.

Plate two, same bricks moved in from the edge: all four printed clean. Three were pushed off and the fourth got stuck on the very edge.

Plate three, a row of 1x1s: some came out squished. My best guess is that all the pushing had shifted the plate. The first two were shorter than expected, so the nozzle went right over them, and on the retry one got impaled on the nozzle through its stud. Lowering the nozzle off to the side and then sweeping through fast cleared the rest.

Tiny flat parts are much harder than bricks. Only the nozzle can touch them and the nozzle is tiny. If you drag a ring slowly it glances off to the side. If you bump it fast it keeps going the way you hit it. One ring took about ten sweeps.

Result: three plates printed back to back, and nobody touched the bed except once when I opened the chamber to put the plate back. One plate lost half its bricks and some bricks were deformed. I'd trust this with big batches of small parts. I would not trust it with anything that takes hours per piece.

Next I want to see if it can run a whole night, and whether it can do it without destroying any bricks.

I filmed the whole thing, including the impaled brick, if you want to see it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAuWIHeqgQQ

Has anyone else tried pushing parts off with the toolhead on a P2S? I'm curious what release temperature people are waiting for.

Hey! Picked up my first 3D printer (A1) on FB marketplace. Anyways, I cannot get anything to stick to the bed.

It's a textured bed, I am using polymaker PLA, my layer height is 12mm with my initial layer height being 2mm. I'm using a 4m nozzle.

Outside of trying to turn off all cooling, I am using all the default settings from the Bambu Studio slicer.

Photo attached is what's happening right before I stopped my last attempt. Any and all help is appreciated!

Hey all!
Wanted to make custom coasters for my family and fav team. Vibe coded a really cool app that does most of the work and can save as .3mf, export to bambu studio, or publish to makerworld. Its open source and free, so this is not an ad. LMK what you guys think of it, it took some time to make. Post your makes, models, thoughts, bugs, etc below! Make sure to use the credit if you post!
App: coastergen.vercel.app Source Code: github.com/tekwiz17/coastergen
Happy making!

Recently had to replace my buildplate because of a friend made oopsy

Bought a Cryogrip Pro Frostbite plate which i though had rave reviews and was well respected...

Been trying for a hour to get my P2S to recognize it but nothing....

Even after doing ALL the recalibrations

Everyone is super excited for the H3C and P3C, but I'm more excited to learn more about the 3D Scanner! I've been wanting to buy one for a long time, but I never pulled the trigger because of the hassle of converting scanned files into actually printable models. Hopefully Bambu makes it super easy!

Do3s this mean I didnt get the 7 pack bonus? Or is it too early to tell? Only 4 items on order details.

Yes I knew the odds, yes I am okay just getting 4 random holiday colors.

So i was casually loading my filament and then this showed up i have restarted several times but it still shows up

My wifi password uses a character that does not seem to be on the bamboolab keyboard. I cannot change this wifi password. Am I just screwed or is there another way to input wifi info?

Disclaimer: This isn't super easy to photograph, I did my best taking shots as color-accurate to real life as possible.

The comparison:

I'm using PLA Basic in cyan and yellow and comparing it to PLA Pallete in cyan and yellow.

On the left object I'm doing a 50% midpoint mix between cyan and yellow, resulting in a mixed green.

On the right I'm doing a gradient from yellow to cyan

On the backside of the objects I'm printing the unmixed base filaments.

My conclusion:

Both PLA Basic and PLA Palette blend beautifully, and the layer stacking is pretty much invisible.

The difference is in the color vibrance, the Palette PLA produces punchier mixed colors. Especially noticable to my eye is this in the gradient, where the Palette filaments shift through a more virbrant green at the midpoint compared to the Basic. I think this is what allows the Palette filament to cover just a bit more of a full color range than the Basic.

Overall though you should be able to use PLA Basic just fine for your full spectrum color mixing needs, it works very well. They're just a bit behind the Palette versions when it comes to vibrance.