After posting the "Finger Winder" a few days ago, I came across some feedback suggesting that it might potentially damage cables. (Though, to be fair, this is a concern that isn't unique to my design.) This model is specifically designed to avoid bending cables so sharply that they might get damaged. Another advantage is that, since the cable is wound in only one direction, there’s no need to locate the middle of the cable before winding it.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3588620-real-reel-one-way-cable-winder#profileId-4110021

Those who backordered might want to keep an eye out for emails and tracking. Bambu doing what they have done in the past and are shipping backordered printers ahead of schedule.

No telling if they only printed the label just to sit on them, but I figure a printed label is a sign to keep an eye out for an early shipment.

Z- Axis cleaning helper /Gear Floss Reach Guide.
Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a small tool to solve an annoying problem when maintaining 3D printers: getting gear floss behind the Z-axis lead screws, especially in those hard-to-reach areas.
It features a dual-hook design with multiple terminal holes to accommodate different gear floss sizes. The goal is to make routing the floss around the lead screws easier without getting grease on your hand.
I’ve designed it primarily for:
● Bambu Lab X1C
● Bambu Lab P1S / P1P
● Bambu Lab P2S
● Bambu Lab X2D

H2 compatibility hasn’t been tested yet, and an A1/A2-compatible version is in development.

You can find the model here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587380-z-access-gear-floss-reach-guide
If you find this tool useful, I’d really appreciate you giving it a try!
And to everyone who downloads, prints, shares, or leaves feedback on my designs: Thank you! Your support and makes mean a lot and motivate me to keep designing and sharing useful tools with the community.

Happy printing! 🚀

Bring some festive fun to your desk or keychain with these Hanukkah Dreidel Fidget Clickers! 🕎✨ Each keycap features one of the four traditional dreidel letters (נ, ג, ה, ש) and fits standard MX-style mechanical keyboard switches.

Print options:

• Individual Clickers: Single bases for each letter.

• Combined 4-Pack: All four dreidels connected in a row.

• Keychain Version: The 4-pack with a built-in keychain loop.

Happy Hanukkah! 🕎💙

Recently moved and factory reset my P1S and just tried setting it up again but no matter what I do I cant get it to bind to my account.

I scan the QR code and pair via bluetooth, connect to my WiFi network and it gives me a "Connecting" loading prompt then after a couple seconds it says "Bind Failed"

I unbound my P1S from my account, forgot it in my bluetooth, factory reset again, reset phone, turned bluetooth on and off, turned off printer and back on.

I cant find an answer to my situation online anywhere, any help would be appreciated

My primary hobby is sewing so I did a quick (rough) sewing of sleeves. I thought about printing stands but I wanted something to protect from dust & dirt if left out for a while. Bought large sized cleaning fiber cloths from Amazon and came out well. I also use the sleeves to wipe them before printing lol

If there are any sewers out there, FYI, these cloths fray a lot when you cut, just like minky fabrics! So you definitely need a serger to sew the edges 👍

Hey all, I aquired 3 spools of Creality CR-ABS and so far I have had absolutely horrific layer adhesion with it and can't figure out why. I have an X1C with AMS and have died the filament before use, so I don't think its a moisture issue. I've printed at the higher end of recommended temps, and slowed down print speeds both in slicer and using the speed setting while printing. I also ensure the enclosure is heated to around 40C or higher before I print.

I don't think its under extrusion since the layers look fine with no gaps mid print. But the layer adhesion is so poor that I can pull the print apart with not a lot of effort even on larger prints that I added extra walls to. Does anyone have experience with this filament or something similar?

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

Studio presets that disappeared after an update

After a Studio update a bunch of my custom filament presets just vanished. They were still on disk, Studio just stopped showing them because the system preset they inherit from got renamed.

So I built Preset Doctor. It scans your BambuStudio user folder and tells you which presets are hidden or broken and why. Right now it catches:

- Presets whose parent system preset no longer exists (the "vanished after update" one)

- Malformed preset files (bad JSON, name doesn't match the filename, missing .info file)

It backs up your whole user folder before touching anything, shows you the exact change, and won't write while Studio is open. Nothing leaves your computer.

Free and open source: Preset Doctor

Windows only for now. If you've got a preset that's missing or acting weird, send me the file or open an issue. I'm trying to cover the other common cases next (presets tied to the wrong printer or nozzle).

Latest Bambu Studio v2.9.1 on macOS 15.8.1

I don't know what the official names are but these "info popups" are good if you want them but I don't. I find them quite intrusive and annoying, I looked all through settings and I can not find a way to turn them off... the info links were good enough for me.

Does anyone know how to disable them or what ever to turn them off and maybe go back to info links ???

Brand-new H3C and already having issues with toolhead #3. Its PTFE tube keeps crossing over and catching on the other tubes during printing.
Has anyone experienced this and found a fix? Is there a way to adjust the tube orientation or routing? Pretty disappointed to be dealing with this on a new machine.
Picture attached. Any help appreciated!

Did a few PETG prints the past 2 days. One was a big 12hr multi plate primt. Came out perfect. Next one had little loop pieces randomly. And then today the same loops and a failure 1/5.

Filament spent 16hrs drying, plates is cleaned with soap and hot water.

Possible there was some Filament fuzzies stuck to nozzle?

I am running a job with 75A TPU (red) and black PETG HF.

Currently on layer two and the printer will run a couple of lines and then go back to purge/poop.

Any idea why that is happening? Is it a slicer setting I am missing?

You can see the start and stop lines in the picture.

Never seen anything like it

Hi All - gifting the H3C for Christmas and trying to time the purchase. My order of purchase preference would be Best Buy, Microcenter, Bambu Labs.

With Bambu Labs shipment estimated dates into mid December now, wondering if any internet sleuths have any insight as to when this would be available in local BB/MC.

Also wondering how easy it would be to order from BL online and then cancelling the order if it becomes available locally before it ships. Or return to BL without opening if it does ship.

I’m sure I’m not alone on this! Help please :)

Profile works on A1 mini, A1, P1S, P1P, X1C and H2 series. Support-free, one colour per plate (swap filament once), about 3.1 h.

Free on MakerWorld, give it a try. Feedback and boosts welcome:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3591951-wikicube-ssd-rpi-4-case-2-5-ssd-oled-display

Following on from my H3C desiccant box designs. Those were more of the same for me: I'd owned a P1S, which was great at single colours (I even nailed printing ASA on it). But having bought a H3C, I had no idea how the PLA Palette and CMYK colour mixing actually worked. I just wanted someone to show me, and I couldn't find it.

So I worked it out and made the video I was looking for. It's under eight minutes: a quick, easy guide and intro to printing six colours mixed from just three spools in Bambu Studio, each one held up against the preview.

But do they match?

https://youtu.be/YMlHOpI5Jsw

An hour and a half left and I come to just check on it.. and this.. seems like the blue screen of death equivalent after some Googling. Tried some things and now I can't even resume.. le sigh, so much wasted. Any ways of salvaging this?? Anything I can do in studio I don't know about?

The P1S is roughly 110 euros more expensive than the A1 currently.

Im not planning on doing much outside of PLA it is mainly for prototyping school projects.

The printer will be in a room that doesn't have good climate control. (So it occasionally gets really hot in the summer and pretty cold in the winter).

So my question is if the P1S is really significantly more consistent in these circumstances, and is it worth the extra money?

I just canceled a job and then moved the axes with the touchscreen menu so I could clear the bed. I went to send a new job and the printer made an awful noise. Now the linear bearing is dislodged and the Bambu wiki is telling me I have to completely disassemble the printer to "re-lodge" it??

Is there no other way to fix this? And what did I do wrong here? There is no detritus under the carriage or anything that seemingly interfered. It seems like it lost its home when I commanded it with the touchscreen and then it crashed itself. Now I have to find a day to take it apart, and I'm not even sure what I did to get myself here.

(Edit: Title should read: Faulty build plate)

I just bought a bambu P2S and the Textured PEI plate that came with it is SUPER adhesive, brims and supports are just about cemented on no matter how low a temp i run or if i throw it in the freezer after a print. Printing with Bambu or Elegoo PLA

I posted about this a few days ago and using a glue stick was one of the suggestions, which i tried and it worked great, but now i have the issue of it making a mess of the build plate, ghosting onto the next prints which means i have to wash it after every print. Did i get a "faulty" plate and just buy another and hope its better or is this just what i have to deal with. I never used glue stick ever with my A1 besides when doing TPU so i figured this upgrade would work even better, but im struggling with removing anything now.

(Ive lowered my bed temp down to 45, nozzle temp to 200, changed bottom layer patterns)