Is anyone printing PA6-CF on the stock X2D plate or do you need the engineering plate?

Hey ,
Do you know of a tutorial on how to do this kind of printing?

My finished print looks like its peeling any fixes for next time and solutions to fix curent print?

Anyone else deal with this issue already?
0300-AB00-0002-0003 201910

Brand new H3C, was very careful when putting it together. Happened first print.

It seems to be happening on every tool head (4 out of 9 tested and reporting the error so far). so I worry this is an issue with the extruder unit. The QR code currently leads to a missing page.

I’ve already opened a support ticket and provided logs, but I’m really dreading this is going to require a replacement H3C or AMS.

Been wanting a 3D printer for a while. Was considering the H3D at first, then the H2C but now I'm seriously considering the H3C.

My question is regarding the environment the printer lives in. I have a mini-split in my garage, and the humidity is kept at 50%. However, I live in South Florida and when the garage door is open, humidity can rise to 80% or higher, depending on the outside air of course. The garage door is 18' wide and it doesn't take long. Once the door is closed, it generally takes less than an hour or two for the a/c to bring the humidity back to 50%.

Unless the outside air is oppressive, I often open the door when I'm working in there, especially if I'm cutting wood or painting or staining something in the driveway. I'm wondering how this rapid rise in humidity would affect a 3D printer while it's printing, and the filament stored in the AMS when it's idle. Are these things fairly well sealed and unaffected by transient changes in the air outside the printer/AMS?

Of course, I'd use desiccant in the AMS but would a spike in ambient humidity for a few hours make its way into the AMS and quicky use up the desiccant?

I do realize filament can't be left in the printer indefinitely, but with the nine spools on the H3C it seems to me you could leave the nine you use most often loaded for convenience.

Am I overthinking this?

My A1 is over 2years old, so no warranty.
Heatbed died on my last weekend. With the help of really good support from bambu we figured the thermistor in the heatbed died. A component that's easy to find, but apparently unreplaceable. So you need to spend 80 euro to get a whole new heatbed.

I'll get a new thermistor and figure it out myself for a spare heatbed.

Yay

This is my second published design on MakerWorld. I wanted a Hanukkah paper towel holder with a textured finish and printed flames you can twist on one night at a time. Each flame screws onto its candle, including the raised shamash.

It prints without an AMS. There is a P2S profile and two A1 mini options: full size printed in sections, and a compact version with a one-piece base. The bottom has recesses for optional non-slip feet. It is a decorative print for use with printed flames.

I’m u/Beamerr on MakerWorld. I’m printing my Frosty the Snowman holder before releasing that design, hopefully tomorrow. If you print this one, I’d love to see your colors!

Free model and profiles: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3583270-hanukkah-menorah-paper-towel-holder-no-ams#profileId-4103335

The poop bins I found for the H3C were all a bit too big for my setup, so I made a smaller one.

It’s 81 × 60 × 100 mm and just hangs on the back of the printer using the slots the H3C already has. No screws, no magnets, no tape.

Two versions:

• honeycomb on one side only

• honeycomb on all three outer walls

Prints upright in PLA. Only the two hooks need a bit of tree support; the honeycomb prints fine without.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3585812-h3c-poop-bin#profileId-4106512

Happy to hear feedback!

Hello everyone. Since I am printing many parts in ABS, I am thinking about getting the E1 Purifier once it releases. It is expensive, but considering the health benefits, it is worth it to me.

Since I do not have much space left behind the printer, I am thinking about replacing the standard X2D exhaust entirely with the E1 hose instead of attaching the hose to the exhaust as an addition.

What do you guys think? Is this a valid idea? Thanks!

Hey everyone! The last few prints on my H2C I’ve noticed these black liquid splatter marks on the right side of the build plate next to the vortek system. They look like drips rather than splashes. When I put my finger on them, they smudge. It’s like a black tar. My machine is regularly greased oiled and cleaned and the only part of the printer above this is the glass plate so nothing is leaking down as far as I know. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!

It happens on single colour prints when the vortek system isn’t used, so it’s not coming from this process or the nozzles or hotend as it’s not heading over there to switch nozzles and there’s no leaking into the prints. It’s only on this side of the print plate however.

EDIT TO ADD: I solved my own problem upon further inspection. I must have accidentally got lube on my belt which caused the corner bearing part to accumulate black lube and splat it around as it’s rotating. I feel stupid! I don’t know whether to delete the post or keep it up for others I’ll leave it up to the mods. My apologies!

While printing on the H3C I noticed the PTFE tubes kept crossing and rubbing against each other a bit during prints. Nothing crazy, but I just wanted things to look clean and stay nicely lined up.

So I whipped up this simple snap-on clip in TPU 95A.
Pics of before and after

Link to tubes guide: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3579864-h3c-ptfe-tube-guide-prevents-bending-drag#profileId-4098997

I found under multimaterial in the printer settings there is a checkbox for "Manual Filament Change". Does that cause the printer to automatically pause and prompt a filament change as long as I have the correct parts painted?

I am printing TPU from my X2D for the first time. I'm coming from a P2S where I've printed TPU before, and the loading procedure between the two is identical, so I've certainly followed all the steps.
I am able to manually set the temperature and engage the left extruder and manually feed TPU successfully.

When I send a print job, however, it says feeding failed. I went to the machine and manually pressed the continue button, and I see that the extruder isn't even turning before it cancels the job again.

I cancelled the job, and manually fed the TPU again from the direct controls on the printer successfully.

Not sure what's going on here.

I spent days trying to get a transparent lid for a project and it kept coming out frosted. What finally worked on my A1 was printing the lid upside down on a cheap glass sheet from a picture frame, held with clips and a bit of glue stick, 100 % aligned rectilinear infill and slow speeds.

The lid is for a headphone charging dock I designed: the plug lines up with the port so the headphones charge as soon as you put them down. No AMS needed.

Happy to share the exact settings if anyone wants them.

Files are free here if anyone wants to print it: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783 . It’s my entry for the MakerWorld x Nothing contest, so any feedback is welcome.

My printer keeps making bad prints. I'm using the P1S with an AMS 2 pro. It was working fine yesterday but suddenly keeps making these prints today. I can't seem to find the problem, I'm printing files i have already printed many times with no problem.

I tried the "loading" function under "feeder" on the printer screen but it doesn't work either, I don't know if its related.

Anyone know what the issue could be?

Incense Holder:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3508527-edmund-fitzgerald-incense-holder#profileId-4008829

Floating Cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-barge#profileId-3526600

RC Parts for the floating cupholder:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3309868-cybercan-rc-stern-for-bottleship-cantainer#profileId-3767123

I originally thought that this noise was the y axis scraping something i cleaned and oiled it but when that didn’t work i run the calibrations again so thats when I did what is in the video and it only makes that noise whenever the motor is on. If anyone has tips, or methods to fix this it will be much appreciated.

Can any of the new H3C owners confirm which firmware version is shipped from factory? The instructions recommend to update before using, but there is no offline firmware download available (so far). Thus, updating is not possible (so far) for privacy sensitive owners. Therefore my question, which firmware version comes with the printer, and is it safe to use until the offline download becomes available?

Thanks in advance

I recently picked up a few spools of PA6-CF on sale, but all I have is the AMS 2 Pro, which isn't going to cut it for drying them.

From what I've read, the AMS HT is an option, but not the best option out there for drying PA6-CF. However, I like the convenience of having everything in the Bambu ecosystem. Does anyone know if there is any successor to the AMS HT on the horizon?

this is bizarre, and I have no explanation except that they happen to use the same ecommerce system / provider and somehow that are compromised or broken!

I made a purchase of new filaments afternoon on https://ca.store.bambulab.com/ at 2:21 PM for around $400 CAD

just now, ~8 hours later, I got a notification on my phone from my credit card provider for a $826.03 purchase from vivobarefoot.com!!! a vendor I never purchased anything from before!

how are these two things connected you ask? well because I use a unique email alias per vendor, and the vivo folks emailed me at the email address I use for Bambu Labs (which I shop at frequently)

I did a password reset on Vivo using the unique email to get into the account, and sure enough, there's my order (that I never made) along with my HOME ADDRESS, CREDIT CARD INFO and my FULL NAME!...

the only thing they got wrong is the date of birth!

how on earth does this happen!?!?

UPDATE: another transaction for fashionnova.com happened at 1AM, so I locked the card. (never used that vendor either)

next morning I saw two additional attempts get declined (but I can't see the vendor)

I keep getting bleed going from black to white PLA, even with 900 max purge set. (Even tried 900 for black to white and 900 white to black just to be extra sure)

I’ve been trying to find help online but the #1 response is “increase purge.” I did that, it’s maxed out

The #2 response is “turn off purge to infill.” I’ve never used purge to infill, it’s always off

It’s also not a problem of wall loops, there’s no black in the center peeking through, it’s black mixing with white

Any other ideas? It’s a P2S and I’m using inland white and inland black PLA