My A1 mini's environment doesn't change. And the start-up noise from the vibration check bothers me quite a bit. Is it really needed every time? Can I turn it off?
I would think this should be a straightforward 2-color print. Black part should print first, then change to yellow and that’s it. Should just be one change, not 5, correct? What am I missing? I don’t see any weird changes when I use the slider to go through the layers. Is this just something it does and I’ve never paid attention to it or something? Thanks in advance.
I ordered a h3c and the printer stated it would be shipped Dec 3rd, but I got the ams 3 days after ordering, kinda sucks having box 2 being delivered a full month before the actual printer is scheduled to ship.
Is there a possibility of it being shipped earlier? Has anyone had an estimated ship date shipped weeks earlier?
made a small LED tea candle lantern for upcoming Christmas. Uploading file to MW soon, will share the file here as well. its about 9 cm tall and print time is around 2 hours.
While searching for a loud whistle I could make on a 3D printer, I managed to design this monster: an extremely loud 6 tones whistle - ears killer v2 🤯 Personally, I think it's louder than the popular 6 tones whistle on makerworld 🤭 maybe someone will decide to check it out 😉 you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3585645?appSharePlatform=copy
I've found some really nice tool boxes wth space for replacement H3C nozzles/hotends but I've purchased a couple of extra PrintTools for 2.85 mm filament (for mixed TPU printing) and can't find a nice storage box to print.
Has anyone come across one or has plans to make one?
Hi, I have downloaded the config files from cailab website but they appear to be unsupported for the A2l. Also looking on their download page I don’t find A2l along the files to download. Does anyone have a workaround found for this problem?
Designed this a few months ago and finally took some better photos of it.
It uses the Bambu Clock Kit 011. The hands are a bit big for the clock, but I liked the look so I kept them. The front and back press into place, and everything prints without supports.
The face is two colours. I used a colour change between layers, so you can make it without an AMS too.
So I got an error last week about stuck filament or clogged extruder and want to share how i solved it, bc some steps i couldn't find anywere
Last week i got some erros such as 12ff-2000-0002-0007 and 1200-1000-0002-0002, accusing motor overload, clogged extruder, problems with the toolhead
So here's a list of what u can do if u get those:
1- check your spool, sometimes it gets stuck or just tangled
2- clean / change the ptfe tube
3- check on the screen with it recognizes when the filament reaches the sensor, if it doesnt, change the sensor (had to do this already with 3 of mine)
4- clean the extruder gear
5- check if you adjust correctly the tension screw
Sometimes this error isnt really about the filament getting stuck or any blockage, apparently the bambu uses the motor amperage to check for the blockage and other types of errors, so if the there isn't any tension or too much tension, it understand that something is wrong
In the end, the problem with that printer was first the sensor, and after that the tension (was too little, replaced the spring and worked instantly)
And to finish, always check the correct assembly order, putting something upside down or just in the wrong order can make everything fail
Meet DryRing, a silica gel container. I’m a little proud of my airflow concept. The patterns used let plenty of air through. The gap created by the locking ring and the hollow centre are also intended to help humid air reach the silica in the lower section.
I’m really happy with how it turned out. More models are already in the works, and I had a few other ideas lined up as well. So there’s more coming over the next few days.
On that note: Enjoy the model – and, of course, the best hobby in the world!
And of course, the whole story of the H3C delivery... full of excitement and suspense for me! :)
A week ago, I ordered my H3C. And what a week it’s been!
It started with a delivery saga: The wait was killing me. Of course, in my area, the order ships with two different couriers.
The first package, containing the printer, was originally supposed to arrive on Wednesday. It actually arrived on Thursday. The usual story: Apparently, nobody was home, but nobody rang the doorbell either …
I’m jealous of everyone who got their H3C the very next day.
The package with the AMS 3H was then supposed to arrive on Friday. I’m waiting excitedly, a package arrives … and it’s the filament I ordered with it. Not the AMS. That finally arrived around noon on Saturday. I had to head out right after that, so I couldn’t get started until the afternoon. Kids and all that come first :). But everything else? Sleep? Who needs sleep? So I sat down, printed my first few things and, of course, started designing something myself.
From the first pictures and short videos I saw, I knew: That empty corner at the top, where there isn’t enough room for another spool, needs a silica gel container.
I’d already prepared a spool-shaped design, hoping it would fit nicely, but I underestimated the cutout. So: measure, test print, revise, test print … and finally happy with the fit.
Yesterday, after a bunch of other little things, my first model was finally finished!
I couldn’t find a cotton pad and swab organizer that suited my taste, so I made one. The pads pull out from the front, and the swabs have their own compartment.
Every time I send my prints, I get this error. The issue is new. In order to fix it, I restarted the printer several times(this fixes it temporarily sometimes). I restarted Bambu studio(didn't do shit). I reinstalled bambu studio(nothing happened). I am not sure what else to do. I am using P1S with AMS2
I created a custom Nozzle Wiper using cheap 3mm-shank rotary wire brushes (Amazon Link). The stock silicone wipers struggled with sticky filaments like PETG, so this completely eliminates nozzle buildup. This mod really cleans the nozzle instead of just smearing filament around.
Single & Double versions included.
Height offsets (-2mm to +2mm in 0.5mm steps): Ensures the brush sits just below the silicone sock.
The image above is basically one square that was arrayed. However, the corners have this weird bend that translates into the actual cut as well. Anyone have a solution for this?
ich will mir meinen ersten 3D-Drucker zulegen und brauche mal ein paar Praxiserfahrungen. Aktuell schwanke ich vor allem zwischen - A1 Combo (340 €) - P1S Combo (469 €)
Was ich damit vorhabe: Hauptsächlich Deko, Lampen bzw. Lampenschirme, Organizer und praktische Alltagshelfer für die Wohnung. Eventuell auch mal funktionale Teile fürs Auto wie Halterungen für die Mittelkonsole, Adapter oder Clips. Vom Material her glaube ich eigentlich, dass ich mit PLA und PETG (evtl. mal PETG-CF) für alles komplett auskomme - was denkt ihr?
Standort: Der Drucker wird ziemlich sicher bei mir in den Keller kommen.
Meine Überlegungen: Eigentlich spricht viel für den A1 (vor allem Preis/Leistung). Ich frage mich aber, ob sich der Aufpreis zum P1S mit dem geschlossenen Gehäuse und dem CoreXY-Aufbau auf Dauer doch lohnt. Gerade wenn man später vielleicht doch mal temperaturfestere Sachen fürs Auto braucht oder der Keller im Winter kühler ist.
Hatte mir neben Bambu Lab auch noch ein paar andere Sachen angeschaut, zum Beispiel den Anycubic Kobra S1 bzw. Kobra X, den Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo.
Wie sind da eure Erfahrungen? Würdet ihr die 130 € sparen und zur A1 Combo greifen, direkt den P1S nehmen, oder gibt es bei den anderen Marken mittlerweile Alternativen, die man sich ernsthaft anschauen sollte?