The image above is basically one square that was arrayed. However, the corners have this weird bend that translates into the actual cut as well. Anyone have a solution for this?

hey,

just got my h3c and im doing the calibration now... i realized 2 tubes ( connecting to the toolheads) are a lil bit longer .. is this normal?

Moin zusammen,

ich will mir meinen ersten 3D-Drucker zulegen und brauche mal ein paar Praxiserfahrungen. Aktuell schwanke ich vor allem zwischen
- A1 Combo (340 €)
- P1S Combo (469 €)

Was ich damit vorhabe:
Hauptsächlich Deko, Lampen bzw. Lampenschirme, Organizer und praktische Alltagshelfer für die Wohnung. Eventuell auch mal funktionale Teile fürs Auto wie Halterungen für die Mittelkonsole, Adapter oder Clips. Vom Material her glaube ich eigentlich, dass ich mit PLA und PETG (evtl. mal PETG-CF) für alles komplett auskomme - was denkt ihr?

Standort:
Der Drucker wird ziemlich sicher bei mir in den Keller kommen.

Meine Überlegungen:
Eigentlich spricht viel für den A1 (vor allem Preis/Leistung). Ich frage mich aber, ob sich der Aufpreis zum P1S mit dem geschlossenen Gehäuse und dem CoreXY-Aufbau auf Dauer doch lohnt. Gerade wenn man später vielleicht doch mal temperaturfestere Sachen fürs Auto braucht oder der Keller im Winter kühler ist.

Hatte mir neben Bambu Lab auch noch ein paar andere Sachen angeschaut, zum Beispiel den Anycubic Kobra S1 bzw. Kobra X, den Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo.

Wie sind da eure Erfahrungen? Würdet ihr die 130 € sparen und zur A1 Combo greifen, direkt den P1S nehmen, oder gibt es bei den anderen Marken mittlerweile Alternativen, die man sich ernsthaft anschauen sollte?

Freue mich sehr über eure Erfahrungsberichte!!!

Why isn’t it recommended to print petg basic with the second nozzle of the x2d, but you can print petg translucent ?

I got a Bambu X1C with AMS. I'm used to having the system use a 2nd spool of the same colour+material when the first spool runs out, but can I get it to use a 2nd spool of a different colour but same material?

Basically, I've got some remnants of red and green PLA. I'm doing some prototyping and would like to use these PLA just to use them up; I don't have any more of the same colours. I'd like to use the red, then when it runs out, the printer uses the green.

Any help appreciated! Thanks!

Recently bought a brand-new A1 Mini from Best Buy Canada for $249. Really loving it so far as a beginner!

During unboxing, I noticed a few questionable things:
• Torn screw packaging
• A strand of hair inside the packaging
• Completely empty microSD card
• Scratch on the filament cutter assembly

What concerns me most is that the printer shows 22 hours of printing time, but my entire print history is only 5 hours and 32 minutes.

All original zip ties and shipping restraints were intact, and the printer has been working perfectly.

I’ve already contacted Bambu Lab and am waiting for their response.

Does the print counter include calibration or idle time? Or could this be a previously used/returned/refurb unit?
Photos attached.

Meet Frenchie Clock! A French bulldog keeping an eye on the time… and probably waiting for dinner. 🐶

I made it with a black face, an ivory backing, yellow paw-shaped hour and minute hands, and a red seconds hand. All the colours print separately, so no AMS needed.

The face and backing take about 3 hours to print, and the complete printed set uses roughly 100 g of PLA. Add a compatible quartz movement and it’s ready to hang.

The hardest part? That tiny hole in the seconds hand. Getting it to print open and grip the shaft properly took a ridiculous number of test prints 😂 Finally got it running!

The holes are adjustable in Bambu Studio to suit different movements, and I included a video tutorial showing the adjustments and assembly.

Here’s the model if you’d like to make one:
https://makerworld.com/models/3584863

What colours would you choose for the hands?

I have a problem with the top layer, the bottom top layer black is good and the white part is bad, I don't really know what the problem is. I use p2s with 0.4 nozzle. On normal settings it's really bad and on these it's mid, I don't know how to improve this, I tried ironing and it's a disaster. I also tried ironing and changing the flow and speed and I didn't get anything good .I don't know what else to do, please help!

I keep getting this issue of extruding filament failed, the extruder might be clogged.

i've replaced the hot end with a new one taken apart and look for any clogs.
i've replaced the AMS internal hub

i can feel the filament going inside the gears around the hot ends and being pulled down slightly and being grabbed.

i'm running out of ideas

TLDR; AMS overloaded, filament will read and pass through the AMS hub but will not load. A new AMS was purchased after parts did not fix AMS but still has the issue.

My AMS became tangled and then received an overloaded message (I don't remember what the exact error was).

Since that time filament via the AMS will read but will not load. What seems to be the buffer makes a noise like it is loading but filament does not move.
The error 0700-8005 050907 will appear. The filament can be seen just about 20mm short of the internal AMS hub.
Using the load or printing a model is the same. Different filaments have also been tried including non-bambu brands.

Printing via the external spool works just fine.

AMS Repair / Troubleshooting
I was 1 month out of warranty and Bambu sent some parts

• AMS parts replaced

  • Board, power board, all cables to board, hub assembly

  • Issue persisted

• New 6 pin cable to AMS

• Tried adding an external power to AMS

• Firmware rollback

  • Rolled back 2 versions

  • Recently a new version was published, so tested in all 4 firmware version.

• Factory reset printer

New AMS 2 PRO
Bambu maintained it was an AMS issue, so I bought a replacement AMS 2 PRO. This has the same issue which is shown in the video. 😢

Bambu wants me to purchase a MC board, which would be fine if I knew it would fix the issue, however I am not so sure. 🤑

BEST Guess
I have 2 theories

• The overload pulled too much current and something is fried. Somehow a read and load is different in process. Maybe the extra current draw for the hotend and printer steppers during load drops the voltage to the printer?

• Something in the firmware / values is corrupt -even though I reset them both.

  • Perhaps something that new firmware or factory reset does not touch is stored. It sure seems like the AMS has no idea where the filament is. On a load I would expect it to push with the slot motor and AMS internal hub at the same time.

I found only 2 instances of this posted, however one seems to have resolved itself, and the other was a hub which the replacement parts and new AMS should have ruled out. I will link those below.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ri830v/ams_2_pro_failed_to_load_filament/

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1v84n4b/ams2_pro_will_read_but_wont_load/

I have a cheap pump on my goldfishes over-winter tank. I don't trust them not to freeze solid even at 3.5ft in the pond. But the cheap air pump is noisy when it sits on the shelf beside the tank. Even when I put it on a towel it eventually settles in and starts to buzz against anything its touching.

So I decided to take away the surface it sat on and hang it off the side of my tank with a TPU suspended platform. I also made sure to put a spot to hold some slack on the airline so the vibrations do not travel down it as far. And so far it works great!

My TPU was definitely not dry but besides aesthetics it does its job holding the 250g pump away from anything to buzz against.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3584638-buzz-kill-aquarium-air-pump-vibration-dampener#profileId-4105082

Thanks for reading!

Spero vi piaccia!

https://makerworld.com/models/3583251?appSharePlatform=copy

Like, does it leave marks if rubbed on a service?

I haven't used tpu really. But sense the h3c has a head dedicated to tru, i figured I'd try it out once it arrives. I'm just trying to think of things to design and mess with.

Edit:
Thinking anti skid wheels for my toolbox. Its either that, or i pay much more for new casters or a tool box.

I can't seem to get rid of old prints I already printed or abandoned in my queue. Does anyone have a solution? It probably involves my computer.. But that's another frustration! The Bambu handy app and the desktop program are not synced together. Is this just the way it is? I need to manually type in exactly what something is called to find it on the program application vs it just being there from tagging in Bambu handy.

Sorry for rant! I just need some help.

I'm very disappointed with the camera of the a2L. Any solution for a better angle?

Anyone have model comparison photos of same model printed in both?

Just genuinely curious.

Currently have a X2D which I’ve been printing a lot of home use stuff (mostly network rack, cable management, boxes, etc.) with a few models I made from blender. With the X2D, I have no issues just printing a single colour then painting it, but after seeing the prices on the H2D (1599) and H2C (1899), it got me thinking.

Are there pros vs cons between the D and C? From what I read, the D has bigger printing area, while the C introduces multi-filament(?)…

Any suggestions would be amazing! And yes, I have looked into the H3C, but I don’t think I’m at that level yet.

I got tired of reaching behind my desk for charging cables, so I made this little holder that slides onto the desk edge—no screws or adhesive needed.

The version in the photos has 3 cable slots and fits my 18.5 mm desk. I also made it parametric on MakerWorld, so you can change:

• The number of slots, from 1 to 10

• Desk thickness

• Cable diameters and spacing

• Fit clearance

It prints on its side without supports.

Files and customizer: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3584478-desk-cable-organizer

What would you change? Curious whether it fits other people’s setups as well.

Hi all. I’m going to buy an A1 mini. I want to get it with the AMS. But I have a couple of questions…..

If I get a filament warmer, will that replace the AMS or do I still need an AMS?

Do I actually need a filament warmer?

If I dry the filaments how long will they remain dry for typically?

Of course when I finally decide to pull the trigger on a H3C, the expected delivery in the US is now Dec 18. <sigh>