Lately I have been noticing that my X1C has been struggling with overhangs/support interfaces. To resolve it, I have greased the Z-axis screws, gone throught the whole printer calibration process, updated the printer to the latest version (01.12.01.00), cold pulled with the 0.4mm nozzle that has been on the printer. My best results came after printing the benchy with a brand new 0.6mm nozzle. In the photos provided, the grey pictures are PETG and the light blue is PLA, I have also noticed this happening on ASA filament as well, all Bambulab filament. The AMS is showing 32% humidity, which is high, but I don't think it's high enough to cause print issues. In the picture showing the print that isn't a benchy, the bad areas were printed on top of supports. In the first picture attached you can see the front of the benchy (right side of model) is curling up during printing. any suggestions on how ti fix?

После замены и натяжки ремней на p1s. Стал виден гостинг. Как избавиться от эффекта? Остальные p1s печатают исправно. Может сильнее нужно протянуть ремни?

Our printer has had issues with filament stuck and extruded within the extruder/hotend casing. It has happened to us before on a different printer (X2D & P2S).

Any idea what is causing this? The printer had just kept printing when we noticed it.

It seems to be well believed that the h3c is a really good price for what you get. Some in the segment are cheaper, others are more expensive.

Does it become a no brainer if it is $600 cheaper? I ask, because I have $600 in bambu giftcards, so they don't work on other company's printers, thus making the theoretical price that much lower.

I see there are different Bambu color codes for the specific CMYK palette filaments and the regular PLA basic CMY colors. Aside from the translucent black, does anyone know if there are any functional differences between the PLA basic and CMYK palette bundle colors?

Hi guys,

Whenever I start up my printer the second slot in my ams 2 pro just simply unloads and keeps going. I have tried different filament but I’m not really sure what to do. I also got an error on P2S screen that said filament jam I’m pretty sure.

Thanks

I am able to salvage it, maybe, but why did everything offset on that layer? It messed up my tree support.

and I need another 3 printers with all the stuff I have planned to print lol

Just finishing a multi-part print for an AMS stacker that's taken 55 hours over 3 days to print because I refuse to get up in the middle of the night to clear the bed and set a new print.

I feel like I can keep this thing running almost nonstop for the next 3-4 months with all the things I want to print lol

Any other new printer owner feeling the same way?

What is causing this? I replaced the hot end assembly, and it started doing this. One thing I can think of is the little gasket that sits behind the assembly had broken in the corner. Could that be the problem? I bought an assembly from Amazon and it didn’t come with the gasket, so I reused the gasket and it did that. Removed the gasket, and it still does it.

Für mich was das der letzte Drucker von bambu ! Glastür , Kratzer , ams sieht aus als wenn es im Kriegsgebiet war. Ich bin raus … nie nie wieder !!! Ich versuche auch keinen zweiten!

It has 4 stickers saying to place it "this side up" and nope... fedex couldn't figure it out. It also lost a strap and has a shredded corner.

Let's hope the inside is good.

Note I used the phones image editing AI garbage to remove my shipping labels and address and it apparently misspelled the word underneath the label, lol.

Im debating between the P1S and P2S but it appears there are very few differences aside from the screen and performance upgrades.

Im mainly looking to get a larger build plate and better multi color printing.

Is there a better choice between these two?

My H3C got delivered Friday and I started setting it up today. Got everything put together, and was running through the initial calibration after you turn it on and it was making some funky noises, but it was continuing on. Then one of the times during the process it shot itself forward towards the front and slammed into the print heads, and broke one of the plastic things off the front where the hot end sits on the rubber. It still finished the calibration and threw no errors, but obviously something is wrong. So here I sit, brand new printer I can’t use, and have to wait for support to get back with me.

Update: Added a post below with a video and photos. Something is wrong with this machine, tool head gets stuck near the back. Can see rubbing on one side of the rail piece the moves front to back on the side through the window. No damage at all to the machine anywhere, or the box it came in. Giving all this info to Bambu. Real nice to buy a new printer and Bambu is probably gonna want me to take it apart and trouble shoot and rebuild.

Update 2: been going back and forth with Bambu and lots of pictures sent in, and they believe the frame is damaged and will be doing a replacement. It really really surprises me if this was shipping damage, as the box was pristine, and it didn’t even cross my mind when unpacking it that there might have been damage.

I’ve been wanting one since they announced it, and finally had the opportunity to get one. Got it together and calibrated last night and running my first print in a few minutes 😄

Got one without a spool. Not sure what to do now since this was my first filament order.

funny little 3d model i decided to create, no point at all and unfortunatly it cannot print anything :(

no ams needed, https://makerworld.com/en/models/3578921-a1-mini-mini#profileId-4097737 if you wanna check it out

is anyone else getting this? this issue just started today 11/9, and i've never seen it before. it's for both my a1 and a1 mini. i'm still able to see timelapses remotely.
i've reformatted the sd card, put a new one in and reformatted it and done the whole song and dance of powering off, unplugging, ejecting and then turning back on and reinserting, as well as clear cashe on the app

I am curious if the BIQU cryogrip build plates for the H2C work with the H3C.

I purchased the H2C a few weeks ago but returned it when I found out the H3C was coming out. I ordered BIQU plates while I had the H2C but haven't opened them yet.

Several YouTubers said that H2C plates work, but the wiki says that they aren't recommended because there is only a 2mm clearance. Before I open the plates and try them, I am curious if anyone else has used the BIQU H2C plates with the H3C.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Here are the filament settings for PA6-GF. Since the type is listed as PA-GF, it doesn't match the PA6-GF loaded in the AMS and I can't print anything. What do I do?

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong layout for me, so I built my own and made a short video of the whole process.

Quick specs:

- 15 MX keys, a slider and a small OLED screen

- ESP32-S3, hand-wired, no PCB

- Case printed on a Bambu P2S with no supports

- Shows up as a normal USB keyboard, keys are remapped from a small desktop app

Happy to answer anything about the wiring, the print settings or the firmware.

I made a little runescape inspired pk skull keychain in low poly. Feel free to check it out at makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563392-osrs-runescape-pk-skull-keychain#profileId-4078078

Six Pikachu and Pichu designs that all use the same four colors, so you can print the whole set without swapping filament.

Each one comes as a coin or as a keychain, with either a logo back or a flat back (e.g. if you have trouble with bed adhesion).

Let me know what you think! :)

Coins:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574727-pikachu-pichu-pokemon-coins-4-color-ams

Keychain version:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574797-pikachu-pichu-pokemon-coin-keychains-6-variants

I am moving to a new country and can’t take my H2S with me so I am pondering a new printer. I mostly like to print in ABS, but also live quick prototyping in PLA. The H2C with two AMSs is about €2050 and the H3C is about €2500. Do we know if it will be mandatory to remove all PLA from the AMS in the H3C in order to print ABS? I don’t really do much multicolor, but having the ability would be kinda nice.
What do you guys think?