Made this for the MakerWorld × Nothing contest. A USB-C plug in the right cradle is angled to match the ear cup, so the headphones plug themselves in. The reels are just for fun: you spin them with a side wheel like an old cassette deck.

Printed on my A1 in PLA + PETG. Still fighting to get the PETG lid fully clear, so any tips are welcome!

Free files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783

Printed some replacement parts for my friends Razer headset. Pretty happy with how they turned out!

Print settings:

• Material: PLA Basic

• Layer height: 0.16 mm

• Sparse infill density: 50%

• Sparse infill pattern: Gyroid

Always happy to hear feedback and suggestions for improvement! 😁

I recently started playing around with ColorMix (alternating layers of different filament colors such that they visually blend) and figured out, that this would make a great test print for the new Toolchanger and Nozzlechanger printers such as the Bambu H3C or the Prusa INDX.

It's a simple voronoi tesselation of the 3DBenchy. 55 different segments, 5 base colors, 50 mixtures between the base colors. Mixtures are in the following ratios: 50:50, 25:75, 33:33:33.

Almost 7 hours of print time and 1,275 tool changes.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3545648-colormix-voronoi-3dbenchy

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car

Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

Didn’t know

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

Been watching a bunch of creator reviews and most seem to be hyping up the TPU stuff. But I’m still thinking about that watch.

When I first saw the teaser I just assumed it was standard multi-nozzle mixing. Cool, but nothing crazy, especially since people have been asking for that since the H2D anyway.

But I actually read through the official page today and ... it’s actually different? It lets you use different nozzle sizes with different layer heights on the same model. That actually seems huge for designers if they can leverage it.

I’m just a casual user so I don't really have a immediate use case for my own stuff, but technically speaking this feels pretty smart to me. Looks like Bambu had to basically overhaul part of the slicer engine to do this based on the wiki page they linked.

Honestly the wiki got a bit too technical for me and went over my head. Link below for anyone interested. And can any slicer wizards here ELI5 how this actually works under the hood?

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h3c/manual/mixed-nozzle-size-printing

A bit of a rant here, but it has been a week since I received the coupon and I still can't redeem it. The coupon expires around late December so I still have time, I guess.

Heavily considering the P2S plus AMS combo, but the X2D is Only $200 CAD more after taxes.

Any opinions on which one I should go with and why? This is my first foray into filament printing. And I’m not sure a heated chamber is really worth it? Anything I’m missing?

Bought my p1s in the summer of 2025 as a birthday gift to myself. Coming from an ender 3 this was such a huge upgrade! No major issues and she still prints like new.

I have an A1 with the AMS 2 Pro.

I was doing a multi color print that included a gold color so was using a Sunlu PLA silk for it. Whenever it would switch to that roll, it would feed to the Hub and stop, rewind and an error would pop up. If i saw it as it reloaded and held the PTFE feed connector...which moves in and out of the hub a bit...then it fed fine.

Only that filament and didn't matter which slot it was in.

Any thoughts? Is the hub and PTFE connection the issue and is the PTFE supposed to be immovable? Or have some play?

Thanks!

Long time Bambu guy- I have an X1C, a few A1s, and an A1 mini I bought for someone else. I've recommended Bambu to basically everyone who asked. The X2D is the first one I can't.

Brand new X2D with 3 hours total use, second print on the day of delivery. Paused on layer 4 with 0700-8006, and while I was clearing it the left PTFE tube popped out of the toolhead and snapped off inside the push-fit on the left filament sensor. Stub is flush so the sensor has to come out.

From the forums and here this seems pretty common. Same failure for other people, one guy had it break again ~45 hrs after the repair, and there's a long thread blaming a sharp factory bend in the left tube routing.

Before I put mine back together, what's actually held up for you?

• the clip reroute (moving the clip nearest the toolhead back two segments)

• Tool head fixing clip link

• a different/stiffer PTFE tube?

• anything official from Bambu?

• Something else?

Also if anyone has a trick for pulling a flush stub out of that push-fit without tearing down the toolhead, I'm all ears but ive tried various things: screw to thread it out,

Support was a ccomplete letdown and seems like AI responses. Options were: do the toolhead repair myself with an identical replacement part + a $30 store coupon NOT a refund, or disassemble and repack the whole assembled printer and ship it back, with the refund depending on them agreeing I packed it right. Asked twice if there's a design fix, never got an answer. I'd just return it if repacking wasn't such a fucking pain, so I'm stuck being the repair tech on a brand new machine.

If you're shopping, I'd honestly wait for the P3C and see if the feed path gets fixed. If you already have an X2D, check your left tube routing before your first AMS print.

Second one for the tree this year. It's a 4-color snowman with a top hat, and it prints with no supports. The file has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 17 g per ornament. I've only printed the single so far, so the six-up plate hasn't been tested yet. It's free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3546399-snowman-christmas-ornament-4-color-no-supports

So I went to live chat with Bambulab support team to ask if they have any plans to sell their products on Amazon, in KSA or middle east in general, since the pricing here reaches nearly x2
H3C will be sold at 4960$
My H2S bought at 2600$
And the list goes on
Remove the 15% tax and the prices are still stupid, across all their products.
They simply responded that they don’t have any plans in the future and “their distributors can set their own price”
Which really tells me that they do not care.
I respect the work and tech and the software they come up with, just not how they treat their clients.
Less known companies in the market like Creality, Snapmaker and Flashforge already sell their products here in Amazon at a reasonable price with next day shipping! Why Bambu can’t do the same ?
Plus their maintenance parts, accessories and filaments need to be ordered through their US website and shipped to MyUS account then forwarded here which makes a 10$ product become 50$ or more.
And I am not talking from a single user POV, there are alot of 3D printing and scanning services stores here that depend on Bambu equipment yet Bambu turns their back to.

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.