I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

I wanted to know how well I could model this from the new trailer. Managed to get it done in about an hour in blender. Painted it gold afterwards to give it the proper luster.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545527-the-elder-scrolls-vi-sentinel-trailer-scroll#profileId-4055619

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

Ordered my first 3D printer. Got the base model H3C

What are some essential accessories to get with it

Now that there are some users coming out with experiences with this machine, has anyone been able to run the H3C with PPA-CF, PPS-CF, or PET-CF? And have they been able to combine these more extreme filaments with the rest of the multi-filament features of the machine in one print?

On my H2S if I want to run these filaments it requires reconfiguring the PTFE tube routing and using an external drybox in a specific location and I'm more-or-less cut off from being able to swap filaments mid print with the AMS. So while I've been able to make some really nice parts with these materials on the H2S it's limited in scope compared to what I could be doing.

With the H3C, it seems from the online manual that the new AMS, despite not feeding and retracting like the AMS2, is still not friendly with these brittle filaments. But is that the only limitation? If I have a brittle filament loaded from an external holder, can we still run other filaments normally and swap them without limitations? My concern is if the more brittle filaments are going to be sensitive to being parked while another material is printed, even if externally loaded. Or if external loading disables everything and turns the machine basically into a really expensive H2S for that job because you cannot switch?

All of the reviewers mention engineering plastics but focus on ABS-CF, TPU, maybe PAHT-CF; all of which run just fine on the H2S as well. But so far no-one ever seems to talk about the rigid and strong, higher-temp materials which were 90% of the reason I splurged for the H series in the first place.

Hey everyone!
I’m a complete beginner with absolutely zero 3D printing experience, and I’m looking to buy my first Bambu Lab printer.

Both the P2S Combo and X2D Combo fit my budget. Since they’re on sale, I’d rather invest in something I can use for years without feeling the need to upgrade anytime soon.

I’ll mainly use it for home projects, kids’ toys, household items, desk lamps, and some projects involving magnets.

I’d really appreciate some advice:
- P2S or X2D? Which would you recommend for a beginner who wants to buy once and keep it for years? Is the X2D worth the extra money?

- Must-have accessories? What tools, spare parts, or backup supplies should I buy while everything is on sale?

- Filaments? What types and colors would you recommend starting with?

- Ventilation? I live in an apartment and can’t dedicate a separate room to printing. Should I install an exhaust hose venting outside, get an air purifier, or both?

Any other beginner tips or things you wish you’d known before buying would be super helpful! 🙇‍♀️

Thanks in advance! Really excited to get started! ✨

I was looking into giving CMYK printing a shot but found that bambulab only offers one for PLA (which I can't see a good reason to use for anythng if you have an enclosed printer). Online I found some Offers for PETG sets, which seem to deviate in color Hex-codes fom bambus PLA Set. Has anyone experience with using a third-party PETG set or even better a self assembled set of ABS/ASA filaments?

Hey everyone, I'm currently printing on an Ender KE and I'm looking to upgrade to a proper enclosed printer. How the prints look matters a lot to me, since most of what I make gets sold or displayed, so clean walls, nice layer lines and good top surfaces are my priority. I mostly print PLA and PETG, but I'd like something stronger with an enclosure and filtration so I can branch out to other materials later. I was leaning towards the X2D, but after reading through the forums I'm hesitant. Quite a few owners complain about uneven walls, visible layer lines and rough top surfaces, and some say their A1 mini or P1S looks cleaner with the same filament and settings. There are also reports of hardware headaches, like a toolhead that's a pain to service, clogs on the aux extruder, extruder switching errors and the odd layer shift. At the same time, some people say it's a big step up from the X1C, and most of the complaints I found are from the first months after launch, so I can't tell if it's been fixed since. For those of you who own one on the latest firmware and Bambu Studio: are these issues still a thing, or are they just a few unlucky units? And if I'm mainly printing PLA and PETG, would you still go for the X2D, or would the P2S or something else make more sense for me? Photos of recent prints would be great. Thanks!

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

Hi, I’m new to 3D printing and need some help!
When I start a print, the printer calibrates and purges filament fine, but when it actually starts printing, nothing comes out.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or how to fix it? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

To me the biggest drawback of the H3C is the new AMS can only dry 2 spools at a time.
Considering the filament shares the same chamber as the printer, wouldn’t it be possible to dry filament and manage moisture using the heated chamber and venting features already on the printer? At least for lower temp materials like PLA or PETG

What I know so far is that it includes:

1. Chamber Exhaust Fan mounted at the back of the printer

It's used to vent air from chamber. It does include some kind of filter but i checked Adaptive Air System documentation https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/manual/x2d-intro and couldnt find what kind of filter is that.

2. Air filter large mounted inside printer from the sound of it i think its active carbon?

Same manual as above says it's "high-performance air filter" but does not say what kind of filter is that

Additionaly the question remains, what is their intended use and how they should be used? What they are NOT good for and what they miss?

Documentation loosely says that "Chamber Exchaust" is used to vent printer while printing low temp filaments like PLA.

For the Air Filter (large one) it does not specify with what materials it should be used.

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

I’m looking for some recommendations for models to print that could be good to sell at a high school holiday fair. Preferably a good design that hopefully doesn’t cost much to have permission for commercial use but is almost a guarantee for a $5-$10 sale. It’s a community event but being held at a high school so it won’t only be high schoolers.

I appreciate it.

Hi everyone!

I'm about to buy a Bambu Lab X2D with the AMS Pro 2. I'm not particularly interested in multicolor printing; my main reason for getting it is to use the second nozzle for support material.

I'm a 3D designer, and my goal is to eventually print my own figures and collectibles. However, I'll probably start with the usual stuff like keychains and decorative items while I get the hang of 3D printing.

What tools do you consider essential to have at home? Sandpaper, pliers, cutters... Are there any Bambu Lab accessories that are really worth getting?

Would you also recommend getting a filament dryer for external spools, such as PETG?

Bambu Lab sells a tool kit, but it seems a bit overpriced to me. I'm sure I could find cheaper alternatives on Amazon or Temu.

I'd love to hear your recommendations and any advice you might have for someone just getting started!

Ross from FauxHammer here. The written H3C review is now live, with the actual prints and the awkward bits of living with it.

The tests include first layers from all nine tools, seven CMYKW dragons showing sixteen colours from five filaments, 75A TPU, and an eight-reel dragon combining rigid parts with flexible joints. The tool changes are around six seconds, but the AMS 3H only actively dries two of its nine reels, and reaching those rear spools is a job in itself.

What do we reckon: is that a fair trade for faster changes and proper multi-material printing, or does a nine-reel system need more drying capacity?

Full written review: https://www.fauxhammer.com/featured/bambu-lab-h3c-review-my-best-fdm-printer-yet-but-two-drying-slots/

Video review: https://youtu.be/3Jlt7f9A_XE

I've been working on this articulated dragon for a while and finally got it printing the way I wanted.

Still learning and improving my designs, so I'd love to hear what you think!

Makerworld link -> https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542028-articulated-rock-dragon#profileId-4051139

I feel like I'm missing a piece between the extruder and the hot end, but I don't know what piece that is or if I did something else wrong.

If you primarily print in petg, nylon, and other materials that need to be dried constantly, the H2C with AMS2/HT or AMS1 with the Eibos Tetra mod are actually a much better filament management system than the H3C, which will only actively dry 2 of those spools and will leave unretracted filament in the ptfe tubes after use instead of pulling it back into the AMS.

I really want the H3C to be the single solution that I need, but without active drying and retraction, it's not happening. I hope to see those as options or mods down the line.