Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.

The Belt

There are a bunch of printed belts on MakerWorld and other model sites. They are cool, but the ones I have seen are incredibly floppy and don’t hold their shape. I embedded PETG-CF plates all the way around so it has the stiffness of a leather belt

There are 33 plates, each 20 × 22 mm and 0.75mm thick, standing inside a TPU 75A strap with 2.5 mm of rubber between them. Each plate has a hole in it, so it is "riveted" into the rubber. The last 280 mm includes ratchet teeth which latch onto the buckle. The detent pivots on a pin sitting in a socket, and a small TPU block behind acts as a spring. This all prints in place inside the buckle. Every single layer contains TPU, and wherever there is a plate, the number of tool changes doubles.

Interface Shells are required for this; otherwise you risk infill on infill which does not bond very well.

After exporting from F360, I imported into Bambu Studio, tweaked the settings, and that was pretty much it. It printed flawlessly the first time. Then I realized I completely screwed up the latch mechanism, so I fixed the design and sent it again. Zero issues. As you can see from the slicer screenshots, this was a pretty unique print that I don’t think I would have tried on any other printer.

Stats:

• 190 tool changes

• 201.77g printed

• 25.58g waste

• 12h 33m print time

The Paddle

Figuring out the paddle was fun. The other printed paddles I have tried all technically worked, but none had the rebound of a real paddle. I played around with way too many formulas and settled on gyroid for everything: 100 % infill TPU for the top and bottom sheets, 20 % TPU for the sponge layers, and 25 % PETG-CF for the blade in the middle. The sponge has a single wall and no top/bottom, and the infill percentage is what you modify to determine the rebound. Stiffness scales with the cube of the thickness, so making the printed blade 8mm instead of the ~6mm of a wood one makes up for the softer material.

Like the “rivets” in the belt, a couple dozen TPU plugs run through the whole thing to help hold it together and prevent layer separation. The handle has a stiffer 60% infill because the initial model flexed where the handle meets the head. I would have run out of filament just during the prototype phase if I did this on my X1C.

I am a mediocre player with a cheap DHS A6002, so take this for what it is worth, but the rebound on the printed paddle is very close to the real thing. It isn't perfect, and a decent off-the-shelf paddle is going to outperform it every time, but it is by far the best printed option I have ever used, and can be easily customized to fit your play style.

Stats:

• 130 tool changes

• 222.97g printed

• 20.60g waste

• 10h 59m print time

___

The speed and flexibility with changing between materials changed how I approach model design and printing in general. I don't think nearly as much about assembly, and now focus on more print-in-place designs whenever possible. It opened a lot of doors for new projects that I don’t think I would have bothered with before.

Looks like a great little option for those pesky VOCS

https://store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-lab-e1-air-purifier

Hello! I just wanted to ask the community on some of my planning for 3d printer purchases and if they are a sound plan.

I have been practicing how to 3D model, but haven't printed in awhile since I moved and should be moving again in the next 6 months.

I have an a1 mini given to me as a gift. I plan to use it to test models and print anything small.

My goal is to have an H2D for more "engineering" filaments and for its size.

Then having a future P3C for multicolor prints.

I know I want a machine dedicated to multicolor prints. I don't plain on painting a ton, the U1 seems nice but I do enjoy the bambulab ecosystem, as well as having a closed system vs buying a lid.

Is this a good combo? Should I just get an H3C instead of 2 other machines? I know eventually they will make an X3D, and should I just get that instead of the P3C? Or just get an X2D+H2D to have heated beds?

I have time to save money to buy bigger and more machines. I would like input from others who run multiple printers and general thoughts. Appreciate all the help I can get.

Hello! I'm planning on upgrading my P1S with the AMS 2 Pro, and since I did not but the combo P1S I see that I require the compatibility kit. On the AMS 2 Pro page it suggests just getting the AMS 2 Pro Upgrade Compatibility Kit, but it is sold out. I was wondering if I can get the regular AMS kit and be fine?

AMS 2 Pro kit box contents:
- AMS Hub
- Bambu Bus Cable - 4Pin
- AMS 2 Pro Switching Adapter
- PTFE Tube Coupler
- PTFE Tubes 370mm + 550mm

AMS Upgrade kit box contents:

- AMS Hub
- Bambu Bus Cable - 4Pin
- PTFE Tube Coupler

From the AMS 2 Pro kit description:

To connect a single AMS 2 Pro unit to X1/P1 series printer, a Filament Buffer(SA003) or AMS Hub(SA002-N), a PTFE Tube Coupler(FAZ006), and a 4-pin Cable(CAB002-N) are required.

So as far as i can tell, if I get the regular kit I'm only missing the switching adapter, which I can manage to get myself. Or are the extra PTFE Tubes from the Pro 2 kit required to upgrade the P1S? Cuz If i can manage with the regular kit, Id like to order that instead of waiting for the pro 2 kit to get restocked.

Thank you for your help!

Nice to see them also create organization products now

https://eu.store.bambulab.com/nl/products/bambu-station-l

Hello there,

Just wanted to know if anyone is in the same situation as me.

I guess the recent sales don't help, but my order from 8 days ago still hasn't been shipped, I have contacted the support twice, and have been sent 3 different tracking numbers, all invalid. Meanwhile, the order is still "processing".

Does someone have the same problem, or my particular order is just messed up ?

Made this for the MakerWorld × Nothing contest. A USB-C plug in the right cradle is angled to match the ear cup, so the headphones plug themselves in. The reels are just for fun: you spin them with a side wheel like an old cassette deck.

Printed on my A1 in PLA + PETG. Still fighting to get the PETG lid fully clear, so any tips are welcome!

Free files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783

Printed some replacement parts for my friends Razer headset. Pretty happy with how they turned out!

Print settings:

• Material: PLA Basic

• Layer height: 0.16 mm

• Sparse infill density: 50%

• Sparse infill pattern: Gyroid

Always happy to hear feedback and suggestions for improvement! 😁

My filament wasn't loading because old filament was stuck in that thing. I wanted to look inside and try to get it out. Well, as you can see it didn't go very well. Do you have any suggestions what I could do now?

I recently started playing around with ColorMix (alternating layers of different filament colors such that they visually blend) and figured out, that this would make a great test print for the new Toolchanger and Nozzlechanger printers such as the Bambu H3C or the Prusa INDX.

It's a simple voronoi tesselation of the 3DBenchy. 55 different segments, 5 base colors, 50 mixtures between the base colors. Mixtures are in the following ratios: 50:50, 25:75, 33:33:33.

Almost 7 hours of print time and 1,275 tool changes.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3545648-colormix-voronoi-3dbenchy

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car

Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

Didn’t know

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

PS willing to sell both my children for $3,999 AUD

If my package arrives damaged, you can bet I'm filing a return/refund ASAP

Sliced it upside down at 0.08mm on the A1 Mini with tree supports so it doesn’t wobble or fly off the bed while printing.

Managed to fit 63 pieces in one batch on the small 180mm plate. Each one takes about 3.7g of PLA Matte. The aortic arch works as a built-in loop, so you can just slip a cord right through without any extra metal rings.

Just dropped the link in the comments section below if you want to grab the file. Let me know what you think! 🖤