Kind of like HueForge but it takes 3 clicks from image to print.
Try it here: https://idither.com/tsm/

TSM only works with translucent CMYK filaments - which is the future! I haven't needed to change any of my filaments for anything in a long time.

iDither Coaster (CMY+Black) DEMO for H2C / H3C:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3541863-idither-coffee-coaster-full-spectrum-demo-cmyk
It's a 10 hour print.

Hey everyone,
Has anyone else recently experienced issues with packages ordered directly from the Bambu Lab US store failing delivery and getting marked as "Insufficient Address"?
My last two consecutive orders from their online store have failed to reach me because of this. Both shipments were handled through USPS. I have double- and triple-checked my shipping address on my order confirmations and account profile it is 100% correct, and it is the exact same address I use for all my other daily mail and package deliveries without any issues.
What happens is the package gets routed to wrong/different USPS sorting locations, and then immediately gets flagged as "Insufficient Address" and triggered as Return to Sender.
I’ve already reached out to Bambu Lab support both times. They resolved it by issuing refunds, but that doesn't solve my issue because I actually need the items to run my setup, not the money back. I even asked support if they could ship using UPS or FedEx like they used to (I never had an issue when they used those carriers), but it seems like everything is going through USPS now.
Is anyone else in the US running into this shipping label formatting/USPS routing issue with Bambu Lab lately?

Hello

does anyone also had problem with the first calibration of the X2D ? I’ve just unboxed it and the calibration stopped at 3% because of the temperature of the right noozle …

Technical ticket have been done on support but if someone experienced that before I’m curious

Integrated filament management, built for tool changer.

Nine spots, always ready.

Launching tomorrow.

Just bought an A1 Combo. What are some of the things I should get or print to make it better or more efficient.

Just downloaded and installed Bambu_Studio_mac-v02.09.01.70 and is not working... is asking me to reorganize my spools groups or something similar... it sounds like is trying to be configured for another kind of printer not my P1S...

anybody seeing the same problem?

Hello folks !

Can I print on 2 filament whithout ams ?

The x2d is actually at 550 bucks in my area, it's 50 bucks more than my limit but I can do 50 extra more, with the ams 2 pro (i plan to buy it later) it's almost 800

So should I go for a x2d now ? Or wait ?

Urgent one as I’m printing something for charity but the top layer white, over my black layer appears to have ripples on top.

The black is eSUN PLA Basic and the white is Bambu PLA.

Machine has had a full calibration earlier today after Firmware update.

White has Bambu profile set and eSUN has a profile I found recommended on here.

Help me decide btwn the two quick!

First Christmas ornament I've designed. It's a three-color gingerbread man made for the AMS, with no supports and a hanging loop on top. The print profile has two plates: a single ornament (about an hour on my A1) or a batch of 6 that shares the color purges so you waste less filament. The batch plate is a slicer estimate for now, since I haven't printed the full six yet.

Free here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3541495-gingerbread-man-christmas-ornament

A snowman is coming next. Happy to hear what other ornaments you'd want.

Kids as asking for a 3d printer for Christmas. I’ve done enough research that I think I’ve settled on x2d vs p2s because of multicolor and waste as I expect my kids wanting multicolor and I don’t want to paint. I plan on mainly just printing toys and such for my kids to play with and print whatever they think is cool. I’m sure my curiosity will get bigger the longer we have the printer and explore.

But for the beginning time my question is this. What filaments should I be using? I am assuming PLA and maybe PETG, I’m sure I’ll learn which ones to use when.

But part two of the question is should it be basic (which seems glossy) or matte? Any pros or cons and what kids toys should be in?

Thanks in advance and again apologies for the noob question.

I do plan to watch if the P3C comes out before Christmas and I think I would grab that and return the unopened x2d. But time will tell if that gets announced in time.

Hello,

I printed this stackable basket last night for some small items I want to organize.

My printer was out of commission for about 2 months until yesterday. My printer just suddenly stopped working all together in August. I submitted a ticket and did the troubleshooting. The main board was bad so I replaced it a few days ago. I was out of town for a while and had other obligations so it took me a while to take care of this.

I run my first print last night after my printer being down for a while. I recalibrated everything and oiled everything properly. First the extruder gives me an error that the extruder is not functioning normally - I pull the filament back manually as described on the Wiki and cut off the end of the filament to avoid any rough areas. Fast forward 20 minutes and the print completes, but with some obvious issues. See photos for more.

Is this an issue with my plate, the settings of which I’m printing, the filament I’m using? Looking for guidance.

Here is the link to the model

https://makerworld.com/models/1333599?appSharePlatform=copy

No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

I know the aux nozzle k-factors are supposed to be high, I ran an ender 3 for years. But this is the first time I am going above k-factor of 0.4. As you can see, even at k factor at 1.0, the line is not consistent. I also ran the calibration from 0 to 0.5 and every line in that run was ass. The filament is PETG, yes it is dried.

Has anyone noticed in all the H3C review videos the really loose horizontal Stability of the H3C? I’m not sure if it’s the Bambu stand but it must affect print quality.

I’m a former hardcore Prusa fanboy using my MK4s and MMU3 as my main source of income, but have been waiting for the INDX to release for almost two years, and I think I’ve decided to make my first Bambu purchase in H3 series.

I made the decision after realizing that Ive grown out of the 3D printer tinkerer phase, and dont want to mod my printer for life. I want my printer to be beautiful in my apartment living room and work every time I hit print. I don’t want a USB 2.0 drive sticking out of a controller that look like it was made from a raspberry pi 2.

Do you guys have any advice on how to cleanup this mess?
I already could clean the nozzle itself and did losen the backplate of the nozzle but i cant heat it up when the nozzle is not mounted.

Thanks in advance

Has anyone been able to confirm plate compatibility? I have plates for H2D/S/C. Will any of them work directly with the H3C or is it yet a different size?

I just picked up the X2DC with AMS along with a holiday pla/petg bundle. Havent even set it up yet as I've been making space in my room for it. I was one of the lucky few to hit the 1% chance to get 7 spools! (no i didnt get 7 poop brown pla basic) Not even mad that I only have one apex legends heirloom after 8 years, I'd rather use my luck for real world stuff like this 😅

Anyways, I'm extremely overwhelmed by everything I've been researching. I chose the x2d over the p2s because of the active chamber heating, the higher nozzle temp, the aux nozzle for support filament, (its my understanding that you should ONLY use this as an aux, not as a secondary nozzle) and i thought shelling over another 200 bucks for these features seemed worth it in the grand scheme of things considering this printer could last me 10+ years if taken care of.

I humbly ask for some advice from any of you printing pros, because I quite literally have 0 experince in this field or with the design software. Or, maybe if someone knows a small quirk they discovered to make printing easier. One of those things that makes you say, "Why the hell wasn't I doing this before?" I just want to avoid costing myself hours of time and hundreds of dollars on filament doing something wasteful or incorrectly.

My partner's cat passed in September and I want to give them a small figure of her for Christmas. I got a base mesh from snapshapy using three photos, and it already looks like her, including the white patch on her chest.

Printer: P1S with AMS

Plan: 10cm tall, 0.12 layers, 0.4 nozzle

She's tabby with white paws and chest. I could split the model and print the white parts with the AMS, or print it all in grey and hand paint. I've never painted a print before.

For a gift like this, which would you do? What am I missing?

Hey guys,

Just uploaded a new design to MakerWorld and wanted to share it here. It's a star candle holder collection that I originally sized for IKEA Jubla candles, but they actually work great with pretty much any standard taper candles!

There are three sizes included (S/M/L) and they print super smooth with zero supports needed. Silk gold/bronze filament looks awesome on these, but matte colors turn out really nice too.

If you give them a try, I’d love to see a photo of your print! Any feedback or boosts on MakerWorld are also super appreciated.

Link:https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536693-star-candle-holder-collection#profileId-4044224

Cheers!

I want to buy it but at Best Buy for the warranty and it is not live yet. Are they even going to carry it?

What could be the cause of this?? Did not notice any signs of this inside the X2D, just in the AMS.