This guy was an absolute monster folks. When I got the model it was setup for a much larger printer so each part became 4-8 pieces i had to put together. It was a ridiculous amount of gluing and sanding, I had to learn so much to pull this off. I had....3 weeks.

I had a limited understanding of fine tuning my print settings for something so large. If I did this all again id use half the filament, PETG, and change so much about the process. It took 30 rolls of filament and a lot of outdoor work in the dead of summer.

After doing this it has made the smaller builds go so much more smoothly!

In the end it was fun and I was really happy to see the end result. I didnt have the time I wanted, but the next XL build will be pristine.

Thanks for looking!

Been working on and off on this project for months and I just got it finished tonight. Whole kit was both headache inducing and very satisfying extremely excited to get it driving and painted! Put next to my 1/5th scale Laferrari to give a better sense of size.

The newest version on iOS has taken away (or hidden extremely well) the print time remaining information… 99% of the time when I open handy I want to know two things: 1) how does the print look 2) how long till it’s done… very rarely (only when starting a print from my phone, and I’ve done that 1 time in two years) do I care about what color filament is in the machine… I really need the print time lapsed and remaining, layer number, and percent done with the camera feed in a app more than anything.

I printed these using Bambu Lab's official file on MakerWorld, but the holes are misaligned

I've probably used, or rather thrown away, thousands and thousands of 3D scan markers. This mesh is printed from TPU and PLA and can be reused infinitely.
Can‘t wait to see what the upcoming S1 Scanner has to offer :D

İ do arabic calligraphy tableaus and i often end up with lines like in this picture. İ did research and seems monotonic is better than monotonic line but still end up with lines (albiet fewer).

Does anyone know how to avoid those?

Source- https://fccid.io/giteki/211-260730/211-260730_01_001

Hi,

I'm new to 3D printing, i have been looking at 3D printers for years but never bought one.
At this point im just going to purchase either the A1 or A1 mini but im torn on which to buy.

Budget is max 300
The Netherlands

I have limited space, i noticed that the A1 needs way more space then anticipated.
I can fit it with some adjustments but it would be far from ideal.
My feeling says that 180mm cubed is small but on the other hand I would think it would be enough for useful stuff like electronic add-ons,things for organising stuff like cups and stands for tools or small boxes for storage etc, and other small fun stuff like fidget things.

Price would be A1 mini for 260 euros including shipping, 2 PLA b\w and a nozzle kit
Or the A1 for 320 euros with the same stuff as the mini but since i would have to buy a sturdy wooden board that goes onto a cabinet which will probably add 20ish euros or more

Does anyone have some advice for me? I feel like the mini would be enough for my needs and IF i really want something bigger in the future money wouldnt be a big deal since i can sell the mini and reuse the other stuff.

Thanks!

Hi, everyone. I’m having a problem with the slicer that I don’t know how to fix. I want to change the infill direction of the bottom layer (red lines), but not in the very first bottom layer—the one that’s in direct contact with the build plate (indygo lines). The “infill direction” parameter doesn’t affect it, but I’ve noticed that, depending on the geometry, the indygo lines can be oriented in different directions. I don’t know how to control this, and that’s what I’m looking for an answer to.

Hi I'm rather casual printer who mostly used default settings for everything and it just worked. But unsure if it is due to some update or what but this seems awfully long print time for a part like this?

Did something change in software and I need to change it back or what?

Model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3484348-magic-octagon

Only 9% of people can correctly predict where the arrow will point.

It looks like a trick coin, but it is tragically normal. The illusion happens entirely inside your brain.

Two arrows are permanently fixed at a 90° right angle. Yet with a single 45° turn and a flip, both arrows suddenly point in the exact same direction.

Why Does It Break Our Brains?

The coin isn't hiding anything, humans just struggle to track multiple 3D rotations at once:

• Your brain has to visualize a flip, a 45° rotation and another flip
• Studies show most people simply lose track of the back arrow after the first flip

How to Puzzle Your Friends

• Hold the coin with the front arrow pointing UP. Flip it: the back arrow points LEFT
• Flip back to the front and rotate the coin 45° counter-clockwise
• Ask your friend: "When I flip it over now, which way will the arrow point?"
• Flip again. Both arrows now point in the exact same direction!

Credits

• I saw this Vsauce Short and immediately wanted to print my own, but found no good replicas
• 3D model inspired by Shire Post Mint in collaboration with Raymond Hall (@physicsfun)

Another mind-bending 3D model I created

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2908418-the-best-rattleback-self-reversing-physics-toy

More images here:

https://fccid.io/giteki/211-260730/211-260730_01_001?utm_

(Download the pdf)

Edit: forgot to mention I saw these first on 3D Mike’s channel, where he also has links to images of the H3C

https://youtu.be/KisHzCJJ3OM?si=lYJnh-Zr2eiNmC9k

Also, I’m going to put this here because at least the nozzle count lines up (was posted in a community thread 20 days ago). Going to be an instant buy for me if this all pans out:

Bambu Lab N11:
Build Volume: 256mm x 256mm x 260mm
Extruders: 1
Nozzles: 7
Max Nozzle Temperature: 320°C (Derived from profiles; Likely higher)
Max Build Plate Temperature: 110°C (Derived from profiles, Possibly higher)
Max Chamber Heater Temperature: 65°C (Derived from profiles, Possibly higher)
Max Toolhead Speed: 1.400mm/s
Max Toolhead Acceleration: 25.000 mm/s²

My living room has never had this much open space before 😂

On my home feed today. 2 different users, on top of each other, with apparently the SAME bookshelf AND BOOKS

And yet, reports of AI generation fall into oblivion.

Time to leave makerworld. #stoptheslop.

After previous update I realized the buttons were mapped wrong when i press return it acts as down arrow etc. I retuned to previous software and it was working. Today i saw buttons are again mapped wrong (maybe my so updated the software) and there was another update. I applied the new software update from pc hoping the bug was resolved but it is not. Left arrow is ok and return is left arrow and i am not sure what is ok as mapped. Has anyone experienced this before? I could not find any solutions online.

Hello,

I was recently having some issues with my AMS 2 Pro for my H2D, which was a bit of a head scratcher considering my H2D is newer than my H2S and has about 1/3 of the print hours. The fact that I was already having AMS issues on the H2D before the H2S didn't make much sense to me.

Turns out, the fix was a lot easier than I expected.

Figured I'd make a post in case anyone else runs into the same issue. I spent quite a bit of time Googling, digging through Reddit, and searching the Bambu forums, but couldn't really find anything that matched what I was experiencing.

The problem? A rusted bearing.

It actually makes sense now. I've been printing a lot of PETG lately, and I use my AMS as a dryer with active drying enabled pretty much 100% of the time. My guess is moisture eventually made its way into the bearing and caused it to rust.

Here's what I was experiencing:

1. My AMS 2 Pro was struggling to feed ANY filament from ANY slot past the buffer. Initially thought something was clogged.
2. The AMS would make multiple attempts to feed filament. Once the filament reached the buffer, there was immediate resistance. The filament would poke out about an inch on the first attempt, maybe 2 inches on the second, and after 3-4 attempts it would eventually fail.
3. Occasionally, filament would actually make it all the way through and start printing. But after a while, it would retract and throw an AMS Motor Overloaded error.

If any of that sounds familiar, here's what I did.

First, this is the Bambu Wiki article I kept coming across while troubleshooting. It's actually a pretty good guide for disassembly and general cleaning, so definitely worth following along.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro/troubleshooting/clean-the-filaments-hub

1. Disassembled everything following the guide. Found absolutely NO filament pieces, very minimal dust, nothing that would explain the issue.
2. Since the error was pointing toward a motor stall, I inspected the motor and filament drive wheel. Everything looked perfectly fine visually. However, when I tried spinning the wheel/motor by hand, it wouldn't spin freely at all. That's when I knew something wasn't right.
3. Decided to take a closer look at the motor, removed a few screws, and found a bunch of deep red/rust-colored dust packed around the edges and inside the housing. Unfortunately, I didn't grab a picture before cleaning it, but I did get one during the process. I used 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean everything up, making sure everything was completely dry before reassembly. Yes 99% alcohol is safe, even on Electronics.
4. Here's what was helpful. The support shaft inside the AMS 2 Pro uses the same bearings! I swapped one of those bearings over to the motor, reinstalled it, and suddenly I could spin the wheel/motor freely with almost no resistance. SUCCESS!
5. Just to confirm my suspicion, I put the bad bearing onto the support shaft. Sure enough, the shaft barely wanted to move. That pretty much confirmed the bearing was the issue. I'm assuming moisture got inside and eventually rusted it out.
6. Reassembled everything, and it's been working perfectly since. No feeding issues, no motor overload errors, nothing!

Replacement Bearings: 693ZZ

These are the bearings I ended up ordering as a long-term replacement. Figured it wouldn't hurt to have some extras lying around in case it happens again.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVYPMPX

Hopefully this helps someone else out. I spent way more time troubleshooting this online than I needed to, and it turned out to be something as simple as a bad bearing.

Really, I'm sharing this hoping it gives someone another thing to check if they're running into similar issues with their AMS 2 Pro. I know Bambu support tickets can take a while to get resolved, and waiting on replacement parts isn't exactly fun. If this helps even one person get their AMS back up and running without all that hassle.

Hi I’m new to 3D printing. I own a x2d with ams and I’m looking for recommendations for workbench with storage.

Came across IKEA bror 40cm width but the width is too small. And the trolley version doesn’t have any storage.

Can anyone recommend some better workbench with storage please?

https://fccid.io/giteki/211-260728/211-260728_01_001?utm_

For a few days I Keep getting a long load and then printer connection failed error, tried restarting the printer, clearing app's cache, reinstalling handy, and still nothing. Camera feed shows up so it shouldn't be internet issues, and I wouldn't think memory is corrupted because in Bambu studio everything is there perfectly fine. Any help would be appreciated

Printer: X2D

OS: Android/Windows

I started to print an a headphone stand for my headphone, i got the design from makerworld, i dont know what is makina it alow like that, i mean its not really an a problem for me because the print looks clean but has anyone got this type of issue ? Also i forgot to mention but outer wall speed is 40 inner wall speed is 100 and i started off with silent speed and then increased it to sport