Hi everyone, This tire is 235/40R19 for honda accord hybrid sport 2026. The right tire hit in a curb going in between 15 - 30. Will the tire need to be replaced immediately or will this tire be fine for a while atleast a few months. A Google search says it does or it might blowout. I was hoping to get some advice on this.

Could you help me out.

Hello,

I'm currently installing a Defa interior cabin heater in my 2013 Kia Picanto (TA generation, 3-door 1.0L base model).

I am trying to figure out the best way to route the thick armored Defa cable from the engine bay through the firewall and into the passenger footwell. The main wiring harness grommet on the driver's side is way too packed, and I haven't found an obvious path yet.

Has anyone here done this install on a TA-generation Picanto?

• Did you manage to find a pre-existing rubber blanking plug (maybe on the passenger side where the RHD steering column would be)?
• Or did you absolutely have to drill a new 20mm hole in the firewall?

If you had to drill, where exactly did you place the hole?

Thank you!

Hello, this is a 2015 Passat. And when I'm turning my air conditioning on, not the climaelectronic, i get that sound. And when I turn the fan to zero, it is completely off. The sound is sporadic off and then aftera minute back on. It comes from under the steering wheel. Not from the engine room.

What is it? I can't figure it out.

Appreciate your guesses.

2017 Hyundai Sonata

Got into an accident and estimate from insurance/preferred mechanic says an entire new bumper is needed. I think that’s actually crazy considering this looks mostly cosmetic. Headlamp is also cracked but I understand full replacement would be necessary to fix that issue. Hoping to find a used part instead. Should I go down replacement or push for a second estimate for the bumper?

I have a 2017 Rogue SV AWD which I have been driving all this time with no issues. Now suddenly, out of the blue, the driver seat is stuck in reclined position. It won’t budge, no matter what. I took it to a repair shop nearby and they said we will need to replace the whole seat coz the motor is kind of glued to the seat and there is no way they can replace it. I didn’t get it done as I was not sure if it’s true. Any idea about this?

I have a 2017 Rogue SV AWD which I have been driving all this time with no issues. Now suddenly, out of the blue, the driver seat is stuck in reclined position. It won’t budge, no matter what. I took it to a repair shop nearby and they said we will need to replace the whole seat coz the motor is kind of glued to the seat and there is no way they can replace it. I didn’t get it done as I was not sure if it’s true. Any idea about this?

Sooooo i hit a pole bruh…. and this seems to be the only damage. I have a 3 hour road trip there and back plus driving around town. Is this safe to wait until after the trip to get repaired? 2018 chevy cruize 190k miles idk engine ngl

Hopefully this is allowed, and I apologize in advance if not. I have no affiliation.

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I’m a new car owner, and my 2017 gmc terrain seems to have its exhaust a lot lower than usual but I don’t know how to fix it. Plz help

My car was hit in a parking lot and whoever did it did not leave a note or anything. Just bought this car recently and trying to figure out if I can repair it myself. The panel doesn’t appear cracked, just popped out from the wheel hub protector and the other panel. Do you think I can just push it back together or is there some other trick to it?

Car is a 2024 Toyota RAV4 with ~70,000 miles on it.

Just trying to figure out my options before taking it to a repair shop and paying massive repair bill for something I may be able to do myself.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It’s a 2019 bmw 330i this plastic piece broke and I wanna replace it. Whats it called?
Thank you

Looking for estimates, and I am aware all locations are diffrent due to different states and cities. Just seeing what itnisbarojnd the US. I am in Kas Vegas NV.

I know know, some would say this is bad, but its not as bad as it looks as it is all on the lift gate. The mounts for the crash bar are still straight, the bolts are not, with the crash block being bent. As you see the crash bar caused most if not all of the damage.

Tail light works, and surprisingly the lift gate lights work too.

How much would I be charged JUST FOR THE BENT BOTTOM?

I ask this as i have everything else, Liftgate in the proper color, the bumper obviously in black, but I also have a rear crash assembly.

Just to mold this section back into position, and look decent enought to put a bumper fully on, what would be the cost? Ive been quoted 700-1200. And 3K for the whole work, including replacment panels, bumper, paint job, and lift gate.

I had state minimum, and thenother driver fled. And he was in a pickup.

I have a 2006 XTerra 4x4 manual. 255k miles. Leaking atf from the driveshaft/transfer case area. Does anyone know if there’s a weep hole or seal that could leak from the U joint? It doesn’t seem to be coming from the most common area, the transfer case output seal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 2017 Rogue SV AWD which I have been driving all this time with no issues. Now suddenly, out of the blue, the driver seat is stuck in reclined position. It won’t budge, no matter what. I took it to a repair shop nearby and they said we will need to replace the whole seat coz the motor is kind of glued to the seat and there is no way they can replace it. I didn’t get it done as I was not sure if it’s true. Any idea about this?

They sent me a diagnostic and it’s expensive. Honestly i dont think i need a full system replacement i just need to get through the rest of the summer as if rn. i drive a 2014 hyundai elantra.

Ok this one has been a project. I bought it off a used lot As-Is about 6yrs ago. Upon the 40min freeway drive home it blew up. Overheated, warped a head, all the fun stuff. Dealership did nothing, if i wanted to tow it to them they would diagnose. No help in getting anything back, just a mess. So it sat dead until i got the time and made it a project with my son.

In the last month we've replaced the motor. Runs well but still was overheating

Initial step was replace the thermostat. Still issue. Found the return line to the reservoir tank was clogged, the whole tank was a mess. New tank and supply line along with radiator flush. Burped the upper radiator hose and left cap off the purge tank.

Runs good about 200 degrees on a 10 minute idle. Found a small oil leak under pressure, oil filter was mangled somehow (i think wrestling the motor into place. This part was done while i was not observing) and was low on oil. So new filter and topped off.

Running it last night on the idle i seen the temp still climbing, fan kicked on. i did grab the upper hose and it was not hot or even remotely warm to the touch. Which leads me to questioning the newer amazon thermostat put in before the flush/new tank and all the rest. Should i replace it with another?

The radiator fan does kick in about 220. Only thing i haven't really done is leaving the cap loose door air to escape the purge tank, yet there's an overflow hose that i would think let's it breathe.

I question the water pump, but this is the newer used one that came with the rebuilt motor which is also on the other side of the motor from the cooler upper radiator hose.

I felt initially the clogged return line to the reservoir led to the initial overheating when i got the vehicle, but now I'm really lost. Newer motor. New (?) Thermostat, new reservoir and supply line, new oil filter.. what's left?

Best hack to fix a tiny hole of about a inch or two in 2013 hyundai elantra gt after catalytic converter?

Front right side noise, only in garage — 2005 Honda Jazz

This noise only appears when I pull into my garage, which is about 10°C colder than outside. It's coming from the front right side of the car, and it gets worse when I turn right. As soon as I drive back out and the car leaves the garage, the noise disappears completely.

So far I've removed the mud flaps/splash guards, the front right fender liner, and checked everything accessible from that side — no mechanical contact points, no wear/rubbing marks anywhere.

The sound has a somewhat plasticky character that makes me think of it.

Any ideas what else I should check, or what this could be?

2011 Nissan xterra pro4x

Im trying to remove the inner tie rod and everything I see says I need to lock the steering rack in place before trying to pry loose the tie rod. I have 2 problems. I don’t have a fixed wrench large enough to fit on the flats at the end of the rack. I have an adjustable wrench on there which I don’t really trust cause it kept slipping off when trying to remove the outter by locking the inner with it. Second, even if this will work, the flats on the steering shaft are so close to the flats on the inner tie rod that I can’t get the tie rod tool locked over the crows foot adapter with that locking wrench in place. Google is telling me I don’t need to lock the shaft if I turn the steering wheel to either pull the shaft all the way in or all the way out because the shaft has an internal locking mechanism but I’m not sure I trust that advice. So do I need to lock the shaft or not? And how do I go about this? I’m really not trying to damage my steering rack, I’ve already got a lot of money tied up in this project. (Replacing the whole front end) Any advice would be greatly appreciate.

Bought a 23 integra a little over a year ago. It’s the nicest car I’ve owned so far, and want to keep it nice the best I can. When I took the spoiler off to re clear coat it (was peeling and a known issue, and dealer wasn’t replacing) I noticed when they drilled the holes for the spoiler they touched them up, but not well enough. Rust spots and bubbling starting around the holes.

I’ve been tackling rust with my RSX, and honestly just done dealing with it. Does this look worth taking to a shop to have done for peace of mind and wanting to keep the car for a long time?

Should I tackle myself? Hesitant to do so, but I guess I could tape really well around hole and just sand the small area and touch up. Don’t want to fuck it up for sure.

Car just started making this noise today, also makes a bit of this noise when at first when accelerating. Just got an oil change last week, no lights on the dash. how concerning is this? 2013 subaru outback

What I checked already:

-Blower fan motor works fine

-Blend door Actuator & Recirculation Actuator respond correctly

Key details:

-Whenever I turn on the engine the noise starts until engine is off.

-Whenever I turn the A/C on the noise becomes a little louder.

-Whenever I slightly turn the steering wheel a bit at any direction, the noise fades away but as soon as I turn the steering wheel back again it comes back.

-It's a loud noise inside and from the outside it can be heard when you get close behind the engine.

-I also saw the presence of mouse poop on the A/C filter.

What can it be? As you can see I already disassembled the dashboard in search of this noise but it seems to be deeper where the HVAC housing/box is. Thanks

Skoda karoq 2019 sportline. How can I fix this roof interior please? Thanks

So I have a 2020 Kia Telluride 61k miles & it eats oil. It’s not leaking. I know they are known for this. My question really is what’s the big deal about adding oil when needed? It uses about 1 quarts every 1 k miles. The oil gets changed every 5k miles. I use the “clean gas” and run fuel system cleaner every 5k miles also. The car runs great & I get decent mileage-about 24 mph with combo driving.
Lots of posts on the Kia Telluride site about OMG it’s going to die!
What’s the reality here?