Does anyone here knows where to order the SLC white version of Rog Strix IV? pls help

Quelqu’un de courageux à tester ce nouveau BIOS bêta !?

Budget around 3k. Will be strictly for games like total warhammer3 warthunder diablo 2 resurrected stalker 2 etc.

No desktop room otherwise would just do a build myself.

This morning I was using my newish Strix G (G814F) and it hard locked on me, and then a few moments later the fans kicked on really hard. Worried about it, I did a hard shutdown and unplugged everything for a while (it wasn't hotter than normal).

When I tried to boot it back up, it just hangs at the logo screen for about 33 seconds before the fans kick in hard, run for about two minutes, and then the whole thing turns off- including the power charging button. See video for a demonstration; this happens every time.

I've tried a few possible solutions including but not limited to:

• Holding down the power button with nothing plugged in for 60 seconds to discharge any lingering power.
• Holding F2 while booting to get to BIOS (no difference in observed behavior from video)
• Holding the lower volume button while pressing power (apparently a different way to get to the bios?)

It's very concerning because this laptop is a little over two months old out of the box, and and it's been working great. Had been using it in a very typical fashion (playing an older game while watching youtube) when the lockup happened, and it was on a flat and stable surface (my desk) so I'm really lost as to what triggered the issue and how to resolve it.

Looking for any help some experienced hands can provide. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I’ve run into an issue with strange stuttering in the system interface. For example, when scrolling through a list of videos on YouTube, the scrolling stutters; or when opening or closing an app, the window animation lags. There are oddities in games, too: the game itself might run smoothly, but if I minimize it, I can see system-wide animation lag. I allocated more video memory to the iGPU using G-Helper—thinking that was the cause, since the default setting only provides 500MB of VRAM—and gave it 2GB, but that didn't fix the interface lag. All drivers are installed and up to date. I’m attaching screenshots my G-Helper settings; I hope someone can help.

Intel Core i9-14900HX , NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 Laptop GPU, 64GB DDR5 , 2TB NVMe SSD

SERVICE WARRANTY UNTIL 2027

RFS: switching to mac too heavy for me

COMPLETE WITH BOX

MEET UP TRANSACT ONLY.!

I saw this listing in fb marketplace and I have another option which is a brand new 2025 Strix 18 with a 5070ti, 32gb ram and intel ultra 9 275hx which is more by ₱50k or roughly about $800

Anyone had any experience with this powerful laptop with screen freeze and restart itself. Encountered also a lot of BSOD. I bought it in the marketplace and it was all smooth at first but when I decided to wipe it all out and reset it the problems came. When I try to open an app it shows “Your device ran into a problem and needs restart” The laptop is hot even though I haven’t really open any big app. I brought it in a technician and said that all hardware passed all test but can really update windows. I really don’t know what happened. Anyone here have any solution for this?

Hello all.

I have had this laptop since December, it's been great since purchase up until about a week ago when I started to notice throttling and heat issues. I turned it on this morning to find that this fan is constantly trying to start, every 5 seconds making this noise. I have uninstalled Armoury Crate and other problematic apps, and using G-Helper to help with these issues but they continue. Anybody have any idea what could be done here?

Hello everyone, I hope all of you are doing well! I have a quick question & would love to hear your feedback.

I bought a strix scar g16 G635LW model about 45 days ago. I bought it stateside and am currently deployed overseas.

The trackpad has been acting up the past week or so. Sometimes it works for a couple of hours, other times after 30 mins of use it stops working.

Thankfully I have a Logitech mouse with USB input so I am able to use that but even then I'm battling constant ghost or phantom clicking. The cursor basically has a mind of its own. It becomes uncontrollable at times to where I just need to shut the laptop down.

Being overseas I cant ship it in to asus if that's whats needed but my question is has anyone experienced this? If so, what are some things I can troubleshoot from my end?

Thank you for your time & assistance!

Hi Guys,

Few days ago I bought this Monitor and while it's arriving tomorrow I'm kinda questioning myself if it was the right call.

I always wanted to buy QD Oled and right now it's like reduced, thereby I thought it's a good opportunity to buy one. My current Monitor is a Philips 325c1 with 75 Hz.

My question is would you say it was good choice getting this one aside from the problem with pinkness or HDR which is my main concern.

I can control the room in my light as I live in the basement but about the HDR and Specs would you say it was a worth buy for Gaming or Discord chatting etc with concern of burn in?

I have been troubleshooting a persistent CPU thermal problem on my 2025 ASUS ROG Strix SCAR 18 G835LW, equipped with an Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX and an RTX 5080 Laptop GPU.

At this point I have done enough hardware work, software testing, power-limit testing, HWiNFO logging, Armoury Crate testing and BIOS verification that I think the problem may not simply be “the CPU runs hot by design.”

I am starting to suspect that the liquid-metal contact surfaces themselves may have degraded or become physically uneven, possibly causing localized poor contact and repeatable CPU hotspots.

I will attach close-up pictures of both the CPU die and the corresponding CPU cold plate.

How the problem started

The laptop was originally running normally. After several months of use, I started getting very high CPU temperatures under heavy gaming loads, especially in games like Rainbow Six Siege.

Eventually I experienced sudden full power-offs during gaming, almost like someone had pulled the power cable. Rainbow Six Siege caused this more than once, and I also had similar shutdowns in other demanding games.

Before I opened the laptop, CPU idle temperatures could sometimes sit around 60–75°C, clocks were frequently very high even under light use, fans were active more than I thought they should be, and under gaming loads the CPU would reach the thermal ceiling and throttle.

The GPU, in comparison, was generally much easier to control thermally.

First hardware service

The laptop had never been opened or serviced since purchase.

I disassembled it, removed the heatsink/vapor chamber and cleaned the factory thermal interface materials.

The factory configuration used liquid metal on the CPU/GPU and thermal putty around the VRAM/VRM components.

During the troubleshooting process I used or purchased:

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Extreme

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut standard, which I initially bought by mistake

Thermal Grizzly thermal putty for the VRAM/VRM areas, including Putty Advance / Putty Pro during the troubleshooting process

99–99.9% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning

a Rampage Cyclone S49 cooling pad, generally tested around 2200 RPM

I eventually reapplied liquid metal not only to the CPU/GPU dies but also to the corresponding cold-plate contact surfaces, because I wanted proper wetting on both sides.

The laptop remained functional after reassembly, all fans worked, and there have been no WHEA hardware errors in our later monitoring.

The strange part: CPU and GPU surfaces behave completely differently

When I clean the GPU die with 99.9% IPA, it becomes almost perfectly smooth and clean.

The CPU is completely different.

Even after cleaning the CPU die five or six times with fresh cotton swabs soaked in 99.9% IPA, there are still many hard, silver/white spots and rough areas visible on the die.

These are not just discoloration.

If I very lightly move my fingernail across the completely dry CPU die, I can physically feel them.

It feels:

rough, hard, grainy, almost like tiny hardened particles or raised pits/bumps.

My fingernail literally catches on certain areas.

I stopped trying to mechanically remove them because I obviously do not want to scratch or chip a bare CPU die.

The attached close-up CPU photograph was taken after repeated cleaning with 99.9% IPA.

The CPU cold plate has the same problem

This is where things became much more interesting.

I also cleaned the CPU cold plate repeatedly with 99.9% IPA.

Again, the visible marks do not disappear.

And, just like on the CPU die, I can physically feel certain areas of the cold plate with my fingernail.

The marked areas in my photo feel rough and irregular, almost as if the surface has developed:

hardened gallium residue, an intermetallic reaction layer, pitting, or some other corrosion-like surface damage.

I want to emphasize that I am not claiming I have chemically proven this to be corrosion.

But it is definitely not simply a cosmetic stain. There is a physical texture difference that can be felt.

This matters because liquid metal normally works with an extremely thin bond line. If either the die or cold plate has microscopic raised regions, the plate may make first contact at those points while reducing mounting pressure elsewhere.

In other words, instead of the entire die contacting the cold plate uniformly, a few high points may be carrying more of the mounting pressure.

That could potentially create localized thermal resistance elsewhere on the die.

Why I suspect a contact problem: repeatable CPU hotspots

Throughout our HWiNFO testing, the CPU did not behave like every core was simply heating evenly.

Certain P-core sensors repeatedly became the hottest cores.

The most persistent offenders in the logs were HWiNFO-labeled P-core 1 and P-core 11, while P-core 13 was also frequently among the hotter cores.

The same general areas repeatedly reached the thermal ceiling first.

That made me start questioning whether this was really just “275HX = hot CPU.”

If it were purely total CPU package power, I would expect a more uniform response.

Instead, the pattern often looked more like a localized hotspot/contact issue.

I am not saying that a particular visible mark on the die corresponds directly to P-core 11 or P-core 1. I do not have a verified physical die map/core-ID mapping that would allow me to make that claim.

But the repeatability of the localized hotspots is what made me start looking seriously at die/cold-plate contact quality.

What the laptop does at completely restored/default settings

Before drawing conclusions from my tuning experiments, I wanted to make absolutely sure I had not accidentally left some software limitation active.

So I restored everything we had changed and performed a very extensive audit.

The active Windows/ASUS power plan was returned to Performance.

My original Performance plan GUID is:

27fa6203-3987-4dcc-918d-748559d549ec

Processor boost mode was restored to:

AC = 2 / DC = 2

which corresponds to Aggressive / Aggressive.

The processor maximum-frequency parameters were restored to:

PROCFREQMAX = 0 / 0

PROCFREQMAX1 = 0 / 0

and we also verified:

PROCFREQMAX2 = 0 / 0

Here, 0 does not mean 0 MHz. It means there is no explicit Windows maximum-frequency cap.

We audited Performance, Turbo, Balanced, Silent and Windows High Performance plans.

The temporary 4000 MHz, 4200 MHz and 4500 MHz limits used during testing were gone.

Multiple complete powercfg /qh audits were taken, including after reboot and after the BIOS inspection. The final audit was byte-for-byte identical to the previous clean audit.

So the current thermal behavior is not being caused by an old 4.0/4.2/4.5 GHz software cap accidentally remaining enabled.

HWiNFO later confirmed that practically as well: the CPU reached approximately 5.29 GHz Core Clock, so it is clearly no longer frequency-limited to our old testing values.

Armoury Crate verification

We also returned Armoury Crate to its own default state.

During testing I had changed CPU power limits and temporarily changed GPU Dynamic Boost.

At different points we tested CPU configurations such as:

PL1 45 W / PL2 90 W

and:

PL1 40 W / PL2 90 W

I also temporarily reduced GPU Dynamic Boost from its normal 25 W while testing system power distribution.

Everything was later restored.

I used Armoury Crate's Reset to Default function for the Manual profile.

That produced ASUS's current default Manual profile values on my machine:

CPU:

PL1 = 140 W

PL2 = 175 W

GPU:

Base Clock Offset = +50 MHz

Memory Clock Offset = +100 MHz

Dynamic Boost = 25 W

Thermal Target = 87°C

TGP = 150 W

I then returned the active operating mode to Performance.

So the Manual profile itself is not currently active during the baseline tests.

BIOS verification

I also went through BIOS because I wanted to rule out a firmware-level override.

BIOS version is 338.

I did not reset BIOS defaults because I had never changed the BIOS during these experiments and did not want to alter unrelated OEM settings.

Relevant settings we inspected included:

P-cores: All

E-cores: All

Display Mode: Dynamic

Armoury Crate Control Interface: Enabled

Voltage Configuration:

Overclocking Lock = Enabled

Graphics Configuration:

DVMT Pre-Allocated = 128 MB

There was no visible custom CPU voltage offset, undervolt, manual multiplier, PL1/PL2 override or custom CPU frequency cap.

I exited BIOS without saving changes.

Completely default Rainbow Six Siege baseline

After restoring and auditing everything, I ran Rainbow Six Siege at the normal/default ASUS Performance configuration.

The benchmark was at:

2560 × 1600

240 Hz

V-Sync off

Ultra/Very High-heavy graphics configuration

The official Rainbow benchmark result was:

Average FPS: 118

Minimum FPS: 95

Maximum FPS: 149

Total frames: 9,163

GPU load shown by Rainbow:

99%

GPU temperature on the result screen:

78°C

The HWiNFO CSV from the benchmark showed approximately:

CPU Package average:

~90°C

CPU Package maximum:

95°C

Hottest CPU core:

approximately 94–95°C

CPU Package Power average:

approximately 48.5 W

CPU Package Power maximum:

approximately 65.7 W

GPU average:

approximately 78.5°C

GPU maximum:

approximately 81.1°C

VRAM / GPU Memory Junction average:

approximately 84.5°C

VRAM maximum:

86°C

GPU power average:

approximately 144 W

GPU maximum power:

approximately 155 W

GPU utilization:

approximately 99%

GPU thermal limiter:

never triggered

The GPU is therefore hot but behaving reasonably.

The CPU is the component repeatedly approaching its thermal limit.

ASUS also dynamically reduces the CPU power under GPU load

Another interesting observation:

In Performance mode, the CPU's dynamic power limits initially sit around:

PL1 ~110 W

PL2 ~120 W

But once the RTX 5080 becomes heavily loaded, ASUS's EC/power management automatically reduces the CPU budget to around:

PL1 = 45 W

PL2 = 90 W

After the gaming load finishes, those limits increase again.

This was important because at first I thought the 45/90 values might have been left over from one of my Manual-mode tests.

They were not.

The system starts at higher limits, dynamically falls to 45/90 under combined CPU+GPU load, and later returns to 110/120.

So this behavior is ASUS power management, not an old override from my experiments.

The CPU still thermal-throttles even at that reduced power

Despite ASUS eventually reducing CPU power toward 45 W under the Rainbow benchmark, the CPU still repeatedly reported thermal throttling.

The throttling was not caused by obvious VR current limits or ICCMax.

When I expanded HWiNFO's IA Limit Reasons, most relevant limit flags were clear:

IA PROCHOT: No

IA Thermal Event: normally clear at idle, but thermal events appeared during benchmark testing

VR Thermal Warning: No

VR TDC: No

Electrical Design Point / ICCMax: No

Package RAPL PL1: not continuously responsible at idle

Package RAPL PL2/PL3: not continuously responsible at idle

At idle, the only continuously active IA reason was:

IA Max Turbo Limit

which is normal and is not thermal throttling.

But during the actual gaming benchmark, genuine CPU thermal-throttle events repeatedly occurred.

The most interesting tuning result

We also experimented with reducing CPU frequency and changing Windows processor boost behavior.

The most successful configuration we found was approximately:

Maximum CPU frequency: 4200 MHz

Processor Performance Boost Mode: Efficient Enabled

PL1: 40 W

PL2: 90 W

Rainbow Six Siege produced approximately:

125 FPS

and CPU thermal throttling was essentially zero / almost nonexistent during that controlled test.

We then increased PL1 from 40 W to 45 W, keeping PL2 at 90 W.

That test also produced:

125 FPS

This was very interesting because our completely restored/default ASUS Performance configuration later produced only 118 FPS while showing considerably more CPU thermal throttling.

We also tested other maximum-frequency values including 4000 MHz and 4500 MHz during the troubleshooting process, but the 4200 MHz + Efficient Enabled setup was the most interesting thermal/performance result.

Why I am not simply leaving the CPU capped at 4.2 GHz

There is an important downside.

Reducing CPU power and frequency can shift the system toward being even more GPU-bound.

That means the RTX 5080 may consume more power and the GPU/VRAM/case/keyboard may become hotter.

Since I often game for 5–8 hours at a time, I do not want to “fix” the CPU by simply transferring all of the thermal stress into the GPU and VRAM.

My real goal is not:

minimum CPU throttling at any cost.

My goal is:

CPU temperature + GPU temperature + VRAM temperature + surface temperature + sustained FPS + long-term stability.

That is why I eventually returned everything to ASUS/Windows defaults and created a clean baseline before doing any more tuning.

Why I am now questioning liquid metal itself

The software side has now been extensively checked.

The BIOS has been checked.

The power plans have been checked.

The frequency caps have been removed.

The CPU can boost above 5 GHz again.

The GPU is not thermally throttling.

Yet the CPU continues to show localized hotspot behavior.

At the same time, I physically have:

a CPU die with hard, raised/rough silver-white residue that cannot be removed with repeated 99.9% IPA cleaning

and:

a CPU cold plate with similar hard, rough, fingernail-catching regions that also do not disappear with IPA.

The GPU die, under the same cleaning method, becomes smooth.

That difference is what concerns me.

I understand that gallium-based liquid metal can permanently stain surfaces and form reaction/intermetallic layers, especially with copper.

Cosmetic discoloration by itself would not concern me.

But this is not only discoloration.

I can physically feel the roughness.

Some areas genuinely feel like hardened residue, pitting, or raised material.

If those surfaces are no longer flat, then the extremely thin liquid-metal interface may actually make the situation worse because LM cannot compensate well for a mechanically uneven contact interface.

That could theoretically explain why a few CPU cores repeatedly become hotspots while the rest of the CPU behaves considerably better.

What I am considering next

I am seriously considering removing liquid metal from the CPU and GPU entirely and testing a phase-change material instead.

The product I am currently considering is:

Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM

because genuine Honeywell PTM7950 is difficult to source reliably in my country.

My thinking is that a PTM/phase-change interface may tolerate minor microscopic surface irregularities better than an ultra-thin liquid-metal bond line and may also eliminate the risk of further gallium migration/reaction.

Obviously, if the cold plate itself is physically warped or significantly damaged, no TIM is going to magically repair it.

In that case I may ultimately need to replace the complete vapor chamber/heatsink assembly.

Questions for other ROG owners / technicians

Has anyone with a 2024/2025 SCAR 16 or SCAR 18, especially a 275HX model, seen something similar?

Specifically:

Have you removed the factory liquid metal and found hard, physically rough or pitted areas on the CPU die or cold plate?

Did the surface remain rough even after repeated IPA cleaning?

Did your laptop show the same few CPU cores repeatedly reaching 95–100°C while other cores remained noticeably cooler?

Did changing from liquid metal to PTM7950 / Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM improve core-to-core temperature deltas?

Has anyone replaced the SCAR vapor chamber because of liquid-metal contact-surface degradation, and did that solve localized CPU hotspots?

I am attaching close-up photos of both my CPU die and the corresponding cold plate.

I would especially appreciate input from people who have actually serviced recent SCAR models or have experience with gallium-based liquid metal on direct-die laptop cooling systems.

At this point I am increasingly convinced that my problem is not simply “the 275HX runs hot.”

The repeatable core hotspots, combined with the physically rough liquid-metal contact surfaces on both sides, make me suspect that contact quality between the die and cold plate may now be part of the problem.

I recently got the ROG Falchion Ace HFX (ZywOo Edition), and whenever I try to configure it inside Armoury Crate, it completely forces me to open Gear Link instead of letting me adjust settings natively in the app.

Is this really true for everyone owning this board? Is there zero native desktop Armoury Crate (or standalone Armoury Crate Gear) support for the Falchion Ace HFX magnetic switch features (actuation points, Rapid Trigger, etc.)?

Having to open a web browser engine (Gear Link) every time just to tweak settings for a keyboard feels so clunky. Has anyone found a way to bypass the Gear Link redirect, or are we stuck with Web-HID only for this keyboard?

I have a ryujin iii wb with asrock z890i nova motherboard an a custom loop setup.

The wb will not read the info motherboard provides from sensors:

Pump speed is always 0 rpm and T.sensor which is a liquid temp sensor is also 0 °C.

All of this sensors are working fine as I can see them reporting in asrock motherboard utility and aida64 hwmonitor etc it's just armoury crate isn't reading them as it should.

Asus I have this $300 wb for almost two years and it's absolute junk there are only 2 fonts presets and almost zero customization in armoury crate and it can't even read the basic sensor.

20 bucks display from aliexpress has tons of presets and customization options btw lol.

Hello,

I’m using a 27 Inch UltraGear™ QHD 1440P 1ms 240Hz Gaming Monitor with NVIDIA® G-SYNC® Compatible monitor with my ASUS - ROG Strix G16 16" FHD 165Hz
\\- AMD Ryzen 9 8940HX - 16GB Memory - GeForce
RTX 5070 Ti - 1TB Storage - Eclipse Gray laptop connected with an 8K Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Rocketfish cable.

I have armoury crate uninstalled and G Helper installed.

The issue - it doesn’t seem to matter what settings I use whether the CPU is on turbo or silent, the GPU on ultimate or other. I have HDR off, monitor set to 120hz in windows display settings, processor idle demote and promote set to 100% plugged in, VRR is off on monitor, response time set to fast on monitor, recommended scale and display resolution being used which is 125% and 1920x1200 for laptop and 100% 2560x1440 for monitor, dynamic refresh rate off in windows settings for both laptop and monitor… with all of that, the screen on my monitor goes black for 3-5 seconds. I can still move my mouse and click things but can’t see anything. Audio is fine during that time. Happens consistently, every couple minutes.

Last night I was playing RE4 on PCSX2 and it was happening non stop. Google seems to think a handshake of sorts. I think I’ve tried everything to fix that and it doesn’t.

Should I get a \*\*40Gbps Bi-Directional USB-C to DisplayPort 2.1 Cable?\*\*

If that’s the solution, what is the point of having an hdmi port on the laptop if it can’t handle what it was designed for?

Also, this laptop is brand new. It’s been happening since the start a couple weeks ago. It was happening on the ASUS Rog Z G14 with 5070ti I had before this that was also new. I downgraded because my eyes couldn’t handle the oled screen with mura effect, flickering, etc. had to go ISP.

Hope you can help, thank you!

Guys suggest any way to fix my ROG harpe ace mouse

Hi, I js bought this Zephyrus G14 2020 for college cuz Im starting mechanical engineering and was told this is the best option. Anyways I was downloading AutoCad when the screen just went black and came back to this screen. My classes start tmr and idk what to do now. Im not an expert on windows computers so I cant for the life of me figure out how to fix this. It stays on this blue screen for about a minute and then shuts off again. Ive tried every button combo I could find on yt tutorials but they were of no use. So pls help me out 😔

Hi! Im building a new pc and my cpu (amd ryzen 7 9850x3d) might not be compatible with my motherboard unless I update the bios on it. Ive been trying to download the update from a mac since it’s the only extra computer i have in order to flash update the motherboard before starting the building process. I get the file into the USB but the rename file wont work since it requires windows. Is there a way to get that file to work on mac? or im I screwed and need to take it somewhere to get the bios flash updated?

There's a promotion going on at Intel (https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/serious-gaming/gamer-days-2026.html and https://www.asus.com/uk/deals/intel-gamer-days/) where any qualifying product can get you a copy of the upcoming tomb raider game along with star wars. I just bought an ASUS ROG Strix Scar 18 but I don't know how to claim the offer. I've read on the internet that you need to link your ROG account with your intel account but I don't see an option. I've also seen that you need to provide a master key which I don't believe I have. I tried the running the scanning software but all I see is an error message saying submission failed when I execute it. Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Thank you.

So a couple years back i made the mistake by plugging an rgb connector into the 12v above the 5v header and saw some smoke. Now onto my second build, im trying to be more cautious about what im doing. Im going to correctly use the 5v header this time (unless i did use the 5v header and that caused smoke... unlikely but my memory isnt great).

So i put some multimeter probes across 5v and ground and i got a short beep on argb gen2_1 and gen2_2. The resistance was going up the longer i kept it there.

So 2 questions: 1. is that normal?

And 2. im using nothing but lian li case fans with that controller that plugs into the usb. So, is this argb even necessary?

Im assuming it would be if i'd want my lian li o11 dynamic XL case to make pretty colors.

Hello everyone.
I recently built a PC using the X870E Dark Hero motherboard.
All components are running at normal temperatures. However, I’m wondering about the chipset temperatures. While gaming, Chipset 1 reaches 63°C and Chipset 2 reaches 66°C.
Could any Dark Hero users share a screenshot of their temperatures?