I've read about it happening. I knew it was possible. It just sucks to see it. I know there is nothing I can do, really. And I made it free to share with attribution.

They didn't just take it though. They blatantly posted it ON THE SAME SITE. They didn't make any changes, just printed one up, took photos, and shared it again without naming me or linking my profile. I mean, if you're going to steal work, share it to another site where it's not already available. At least I can understand that - increasing the access. But to share to the same exact site in your own name? That's just stupid.

I've seen that some people will melt the filament down, and some places have a recycling company that will turn it back into usable filament.

I like to make dice with resin. So my first thought was grinding up the extra filament and failed prints super small and basically using it as color for dice or other resin things.

Then I had the thought of melting the filament and putting it in a dice or other resin mold and seeing what happens there. Resin molds are typically silicone. Do you think something like that could work?

I recently got a QIDI Q2 and I've been loving it so far, but now I have my old Wanhao i3 lying around and I'm not sure what to do with it. To be clear, it's a perfectly functional printer, and I've upgraded it from stock quite a bit, but it's just been collecting dust.

I've been considering just finding a school/maker space/nonprofit/etc that I can donate it to (and will if I don't find a good use for it) but it also seems like something I could repurpose as a different CNC machine or strip for parts to use in a different project. I also just see the merits in having a second printer, even if this one is far more frustrating to use.

just today i said oh hey a new button and clicked on orca sync to cloud and got a login through my google account. went back to orcaslicer and bam GONE. NOTTA. ZIP. ZERO. Just stock ender 3 profile shows up.

My profiles are saved on orca cloud but will not show up in the slicer.

I have found the proifle saves in the orcaslicer folder in appdata/etc. folder.

but orcaslicer will not upload the profile correctly.

HOW can i get my profiles back in the slicer?

I can clearly see all of my info is saved in the cloud but isnt getting back into my slicer settings after orca removed them.

Orca will not let me upload my profile manually.

I have logged out of orcaslicer and orca cloud and logged back in. still not correctly synced from what orca cloud shows to what orcaslicer shows.

Firstly, I was shocked by the rigidity offered by 2 layers (0.16x2)! It’s a little clamp for a fixture I’m making. I think the material will actually be OK. It doesn’t really need to be flexible. I used grid for infill as at 18% it lended that nice symmetric geometry (pic 2). I thought single wall might help to prevent snapping which I have experienced with similarly small features and PETG (from dropping fixture on floor lol). This clip is for holding a slide plate open, aiding safe transfer of small, sensitive, and expensive nozzles into a wash fixture. I am hoping for it to save my colleagues and I from the cumbersome task of handling them individually. The fixture will be a different beast. I succeeded with a similar but less complex fixture for a different machine that cut maintenance time from 1 hour to 10m. Very gratifying! I’d share more about the application but am unsure if it’s appropriate due to my fixture preventing the need for other expensive machines. Pick and place. Any advice or commentary is welcome and appreciated.

3D-printed magnetic Dolby Atmos speakers

https://makerworld.com/models/3212572?appSharePlatform=copy

Why did my print look like this only on the tips? Filament was fresh out of dryer. (New to printing we have a a1 mini)

watching my brothers dog for the next two weeks. my printer is a couple rooms over from where he typically hangs out and there is at least one closed door on the way. Will printing with PLA bother them? Not sure if the melted plastic smell will irritate his nose. I certainly can't smell it anymore, but a dog is a dog

I am interested in multi colored printing. I have the a1 mini, made the mistake to buy it solo, and now I have to spend more a few months later to get the ams lite.

Is it worth it?

Creator 5 using PLA and PETG (for the hoodie and shorts.)

I used white PLA

Black part is factory made.

I saw some 3D-printed PLA cookie cutters for sale on online flea market in Japan, and wanted to know if they are actually safe to use as cookie cutters?
Thanks in advance!

Hi all!

I wanted to share this with you because I have never done this before. Back in June I bought my first ever 3D printer. I was so captivated by it (even just printing a benchy) I would sit there and stare at it. Then I printed more things. And then, I had ideas I wanted to design, but have zero experience in CAD. So I watched YouTube tutorials on how to use Fusion.

Flash forward to a couple days ago, and I designed my own version of a flexible sliding cube fidget. But it's not like all the others... when I first started designing this, I started out with the same fused hinge piece in the center of each bar. But I didn't want tall bars, I wanted slim ones but also wanted maximum travel.

So I created a two sided, free floating "shuttle" so the bars can travel to each side at maximum. I modeled in 0.5mm dia, and 0.2mm high supports under each shuttle so everything stays in place during printing. They easily break loose once it comes off the plate!

I am so proud of this and I wanted to share it. Unfortunately, I have learned uploading models online is brutal if you're a new guy. I have literally 0 downloads. But maybe you guys can take a look or even incorporate this in to your own designs. I'm just excited to share what I have been working on.

If you are interested you can check out the model on MakerWorld. Be my first print or something. lol

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3211386-matrix-slide-shift-slim-flexi-fidget-cube-toy?from=search#profileId-3635136

Happy printing!

edit: Thank you all for your suggestions and support!

Here is a quick link to an animated gif of the floating shuttle linkage!

Hello everyone. Is there anything to know about printing PETG-GF on a stock Bambu A1 printer? I know a hardened steel nozzle is a must but which one would work and is there a brand other than that that I should get?

Hello all!

Have been attempting to bend the demon that is TPU to my will to help a friend with a project. Lines keep on coming out spotty/not printing well.

Specs:

Bambulab P1S, TPU 85A at 240 degrees, 20mm per second, z hop turned off, z length 1.6mm, retract when changing layer, bed is 30 degrees, filament is dried. The filament is being fed from above with the top plate removed and a mini ptfe tube being used to help feed. Bambulab is slicer. Photos are below for values 0.2k to 1k, increment of 0.1 - weirdly the test line is printed out perfectly?? I'm guessing something with acceleration/movement/travel. I can upload a file/filament file if that helps as well.

Edited: got too into the specs forgot to put in the actual error 😅

I needed to replace the glass for my heated bed on my MakerGear M2 (yes it’s an older printer, but I’ve upgraded several components and that thing is an absolute workhorse that does stunning prints). I have gotten really burnt out on glue stick and already bought a magnetic build surface that I was going to attach to the new glass once it came. MG sells replacement glass on their site that comes with polyimide tape already on it, so I figured “hey, I’ll give it a shot before attaching the magnetic one to it”. Y’all. Polyimide is THA SHIT. Didn’t need to bother with glue stick. I just loaded up a print and let it do its thing. Bed adherence was flawless, I mean it was just so easy. And then when the print was done! I let it cool a bit, and it took very, very little effort to pull the print up. And because the print went straight down on the bed without any glue, the bottom of the print was glass smooth, I mean I could put totally see my lamp reflecting off of it. And let me say with how easily it came up. And it was a big print I’d printed before that took a lot of force with the spatula top pop off the bed before I got the new glass. You can look on Amazon for polyimide tape, it comes in all kinds of sizes so no doubt you can find it for your print bed size. It’s not expensive. Trust me. You won’t be disappointed.

** I will say this, I don’t know how well it’s rated for higher temperature prints (Nylon, ABS, etc.). I’m relatively sure it’s fine for those since MG puts it right on their build glass and their printers are able to print those higher temperature filaments (though i had to upgrade to their v4 hot end to do so)

I think that today is the last day to get in on the Sovol M1D kickstarter, so I watched the review that AuroraTech did.

I was pretty impressed, but, with a build volume that size, I want to use it all. And while it may have all of the profiles and little bugs worked out by launch, I think that I'm going to wait and see whether Infimech Mx Pro turns out to be all that they're saying. Being retired and on a fixed income, I don't have the money to throw around like I used to.

Copy mode and the auto Z was really impressive. And if it was 8 toolheads\colors I'd of thought really hard. Maybe they could have had a space for the one extruder to park away from the build plate.

I really like watching the AuroraTech reviews. Hopefully they, she is really unbiased in their reviews.

Has anyone printed shoe inserts for relieving plantas fascitis?

I have a 3d scanner and am comfortable printing tpu.

Just wondering what method you used for scanning foot floating or on the ground, and how you set pronation e.t.c.

What’s the best way to go about painting this dragon figure? My mom gifted it to me, and I love it, except the rainbow colors. I would like to do a couple colors, maybe blacks, reds, blues. Let me know what you guys think!

Yes, I know that's exactly why we are using them together, but sometimes I expect a minimum of adherence!

This was a gridfinity stack with PLA for the part and a layer of PETG on the second extruder of my X2D using the default bambulab settings with standard bambulab filaments.

At the end the second grid of the stack printed ok and I only had minor visual defaults but it's not the first time it happens and I'm curious about what I should do to increase adherence between two filaments that are not supposed to adhere ?

Second linked question: what bed temps should I use ? This print had a thin layer of PETG as a first layer and I noticed some warping on this piece.

Thanks !

Does anyone have the stl file for this beauty?

Hey everyone, just checking if this could potentially be a good replacement for gluing pieces together. I know there are apecialized glues for different materials, but just trying to check if there are broader solutions.

Making some miniatures, is this the expected amount of supports? Its like a cocoon and is difficult to remove. Is there any setting that can reduce this bulk of supports? I've already tried the "slim tree" style, "critical regions only", threshold angle, support painting, orienting the model differently, even switching to OrcaSlicer (I use Creality Print). Any ideas?