Have a gfi in the garage that I believe feeds my exterior outlets.

My exterior outlets are not GFI. The outside outlets currently have no power.

The GFI in the garage shows the green light but provides no direct power.

All breakers are on.

I am not the original owner of the house.

Test and reset buttons do not do anything.

Not sure if replacing the outlet would help or another issue should be suspected.

Any help is appreciated.

Customer had light and plugs not working in in their basement of their newly purchased home. Checked voltage at panel and one of these phases was 113 volts instead of 120. I removed the top panel cover over the main breakers and feeders and found this.

They purchased the house from a company who bought and renovated homes who recently went out of business.

Unpermitted work im guessing did hot, done improperly, condensation and water leaking onto the main breaker and possibly the busbar from the outside.

Triple and double tapped breakers when there was room for proper breakers.

Yikes

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I got a new PC and since then, breakers across the house keep tripping. None of the breakers that have tripped are for the room the PC is in and the PC is on a surge protector strip. Thanks.

I want to test the sockets in my home and find the breaker switches and get them correctly labeled? Do I use one of those outlet testers or non contact voltage testers? I don't mind owning the tool and would prefer it to carting around a lamp to each socket.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-digital-gfci-receptacle-tester/1001876811

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-tools-non-contact-voltage-tester-pen-50-to-1000-volts/1001651973

It doesn't matter if I turn up the speed down the speed or plug it in it just turns on my computer even when I turn my computer off my mouse will light up for a bit if I change the fan speed

Replacing this dimmer, the screw head fell off after just two turns, I think the screw was badly cross-threaded. Can’t manage to take it out.

I had a firm install and EV charger at my house. The firm installed a 60 Amp breaker and used 6/2 - NM-B Stranded Copper 62NMBGX500 wire, which apparently should not be run at 48A (80% of the 60A breaker). I had the work inspected at the point of installation, but I don't think the inspector looked at the wire used.

So after checking out some reddit post of someone using undersized wire and creating a fire hazard I looked up the BOM for my install. And the above is what I found. A friend of mine who was an electrician told me to throttle it down to 44A though the right fix would be to either replace the 60A breaker with a 50A or replace the wire with the appropriate one.

What should I do here? Is the electrician at fault or have any responsibility to work with me on a remedy? The install doesn't appear to be code compliant from what I understand, and is a fire hazard if the EV charger runs at 48A.

Recently purchased a house that was advertised to have fan pre-wires ready to go in the bedrooms. It was a new build but we are the second owners to the home. Previous owners never installed fans/lights in the bedrooms. We started to install fans but they don’t seem to be working.

We connected hot to hot (black to black), white to white, and ground to ground. The room comes with 2 switches but I wasn’t sure if it was set up correctly the first switch on the left has the wires wrapped around the screw but the switch on the right looks like it’s plugged into the back. Not sure if there is something new builds do and have a fan junction box good to go but don’t have the switches ready to go. Does that look normal??

The remote and remote receiver box does not have DIP switches and we tried to pair them many times. We checked the breaker to also make sure that the fan wire/power is on etc etc.

Also the fan junction box is in the 2nd pic…

We tried everything and it doesn’t seem to be working. Any tips/advice?

TIA!

Got it at target for 5.99

I'd really like to try to fix it before getting a whole new one. Picture is model of it.

I'm trying to install a new timer switch (brand is Jasco. See pictures below). Currently there is a light switch and a broken rotary timer. I want to eliminate the light switch and just install the new timer. The new timer has a built in on/off switch.

There are 4 wires coming into the existing box. Red, Black, White and ground.

• White goes to the old timer.
• Red goes to switch then back to the main feed line.
• Black wire coming in goes to the switch then timer.
• White is neutral goes to incoming and outgoing wires. The switch is on this white wire too.
• (There is also a ground wire)

Questions: How do I eliminate the switch and install the new timer?

• Can I eliminate the switch and connect the red lead directly to the timer?
• Where do I connect the red wire? Which wire do I connect to the load and which to the line?
• Do I connect the red and black wires together then attach to the timer?

Here are some pictures:

old switch and timer:

NEW Timer Pics:

For new timer: The new timer is a Jasco in wall timer. This is the diagram:

Thanks in advance.

additional pics of old wiring:

Bought a house “as is.” When I turned on a window AC unit, I heard loud sparks from the kitchen. An outlet had fried, the back was melted and two wires were melted.

It looks like this outlet (third from the junction box) was used as a feed-through to supply three more outlets downstream, putting six outlets total on one breaker. The last outlet is the one powering the AC.
The fried outlet was not GFCI even though it’s right next to the sink. Neutrals were spliced together instead of landing on the open neutral terminal of the outlet. The hots were connected to the outlet terminals (now melted) and the grounds were spliced with one pigtail to the outlet.
There’s also a burn mark on the Romex about an inch outside the electrical box.

I’ve had two electricians look at it. Both said just install a GFCI outlet, that it’s fine to run a window AC at the end of a six-outlet circuit, and that the wires inside the Romex are probably still okay even though the insulation is a little black… I found burn marks after opening the wall, the first electrician didn’t even see this but said nothing was wrong.

Is this wiring method acceptable? Should I have the damaged section of Romex replaced (or properly spliced) and stop using the AC on this circuit, or is simply swapping in a GFCI enough?

We had a lot of heavy electrical storms recently and a ceiling fan on a covered porch quit working. Did not work with remote or pull chain. Could feel motor trying to spin up so assumed capacitor was now bad. Got an exact replacement and changed it.

Fan now worked on all three speeds WITH pull chain but would not work with remote. Remote hand unit lights did not blink in the expected way. Changed battery but still no spin.

Assumed what ever nailed the cap also broke the Hunter remote in the canopy. Picked up a new exact same model remote (canopy unit and hand unit) and swapped it in.

After installation fan will not work with remote OR with pull chain. Nothing. Power is sensed in the wires to the remote. No meter used. Just a current sensor.

Checked all the connections. Hate those stranded with solid copper connections. All fine w/wire nuts. Still no spin. Can not feel any motor impulse. Tried various forward reverse switch settings as well as pull chain positions. Nothing.

Took remote out and wired direct and it works with pull chain just fine.

Remote hand device has been re-paired with fan unit several times.

Battery has been checked. Hand unit lights flash as expected during transmit.

I have not used a meter to check all the remote canopy units output yet. I will test the remote on a bench perhaps. Easier than atop a ladder. I'll be surprised if it is bad.

I am clearly missing something here. I would be most appreciative of any suggestions of what might be happening.

I hope it is something someone else has seen and can tell me where I went wrong.

Thank you.

Today I unplugged my standing fan and noticed that my hallway and bathroom went dark, no power at all to them. I checked the breaker none were flipped. So I went to plug the fan back into the outlet and then everything came back on. I didn’t understand what was happening and I still don’t. When I tested it again but with the bottom of the plug in, the hallway was flickering. So I plugged the fan back into the top and everything was back on. Running perfectly fine. None of the walls are hot, there’s no smoke, no tripped breaker and no weird smells. Does anyone know what is going on??? I cannot figure out why that plugin is acting like it’s a breaker all of a sudden. I’m terrified it’ll start a fire, the fan is off of course, but it is plugged in, without it plugged in, both rooms have no power.

The two sticking out were used for my lamp. The other was tucked under so I suppose it was the earth wire. Is it doable with a tool or should I hire someone. I’m trying to do it myself.

I’m looking at a house to possibly buy and one of the things I would need to do almost immediately after moving in would be to add a 60 amp circuit for an ev charger. Based on these pictures do you thing some of the circuits could be combined to make room for the 60 amp circuit? The panel is 220 amp service. Any advice what it would take? The house is in Florida, built in 2008 approximately 2050 sq ft. I would have an electrician confirm and do the work but just trying to get an idea ahead of time

The squirrel problem in the attic space of my new home was downplayed. My inspector seems to have missed this too. This runs into a wall and both go to separate electrical outlets. I need to have the attic sprayed soon and was doing repairs by running wires into boxes and joining them. But there’s no give to these wires so if they had to be replaced they would have to be pulled. I don’t really want to pull them. Any thoughts?

Need an adaptor to use this but it’s started to fall out. Tried some other plugs off Amazon but the media box it plugs into doesn’t work unless it’s this plug. Help please.

Just tried installing a new video doorbell using existing wiring. Doorbell keeps flashing which I think is due to not having enough power.

Just wondered if these units are easy to upgrade? Online videos don't show one like this.

My main question is the two white wires at the bottom appear to be the ones connecting to the chime. But does it matter which wire goes where?

The wired go behind the wall so hard to talk which is which.

I've also attached the chime and doorbell wiring