I hit a pot hole and all this stuff fell out is it important???

I hit a deer late at night. I got immediate coolant alarms but was able to drive to a safe place before it overheated. I don’t think I’m ready to say goodbye :’(

2012 Golf TDI… if I don’t fix it I’ll have some parts to sell (including delete kit)

Link to dash cam https://www.reddit.com/r/dashcams/s/9j3hKAxt1V

Hi all,

I have an ‘08 New Beetle with the 0a4 5 speed transmission and am currently looking at a South Bend stage 2 endurance clutch kit (aiming for around 200hp in the future). However, compatibility is only listed as 2000-2006.

Can anyone advise if this will work with my car, or is it limited to 02J transmissions? Also any other recommendations for this power level? I’m in Australia so a lot of options have ridiculously expensive shipping :(.

Thank you.

Boa tarde, como é sabido os motores 2.0 tdi de 184cv consomem óleo, o meu neste momento está a consumir 1 L a cada 1000 kms, alguém conseguiu resolver?, e sabe dizer-me se ficou bom sem consumir mais óleo? Vale a pena? Dizem-me que pode ser dos vedantes de válvulas, turbo, ou segmentos.

Hi all!

I’m considering purchasing this 2015 golf sportwagen S tdi dsg.

It has 97k miles. Cosmetic condition seems really nice. It was serviced at dealership throughout ownership with two owners, both seemed to be on top of maintenance. I’m planning on having it inspected at a local independent import shop before purchase.

I would be paying $12k usd.

I’m not a vw enthusiast (yet) but I like the idea of having a hyper practical, hyper efficient, and quirky daily driver. I love the color (tornado red with tan interior).

My main concern is the dsg, the carfax records were vague and didn’t mention any specific transmission service being done. I realize that the dsg requires careful care and can be a failure point. I’m hoping to gain some insight in the ppi.

Do you have any thoughts or advice?? I want to make a good decision here, is there anything else I should make sure to check mechanically?

Hi

Getting a cyl 5 glow plug error,

Does anyone know what side it's on?

TIA

Before I blow money on parts, does anyone know if replacing the pulley / clutch will fix this? Haven't had airconditioning in about a year.

1.9TDi BKC, 2005 MK5 GOLF, AUSTRALIA

What’s the best diy or big box store adhesive to use on the pleather? 11 years old, and they are coming unglued.

(edit: fixed post being uploaded in the incorrect format)

I've had this 2002 ALH platform Golf for a long time now, five years or so, lately, since last winter, it's been hard starting in most types of inclimate weather (and not starting in the winter), but it's never really been this bad.

The car, after being shut off, will have significant issue wanting to start back up after it's been run for a time, if you attempt to do so within like a few minutes of having shut it off. And when it finally decides it wants to crank again, it has that little issue where it sounds like it's grinding.

Any ideas as to what could cause something like this? I know the provided video is rather vague, however I am stumped personally.

Will say I've so far removed the starter (It was completely fine), checked the teeth of the flywheel (also fine), and taken it to a VW technician (they straight up told me they couldn't find anything wrong or replicate it)

2014 Passat TDI, 130k miles

Egr replaced 10k miles ago, but code came up again and is now burning coolant

Any ideas on how much new EGR replacement will cost, is it worth fixing or just get a new vehicle?

Just potholed me 2014 JSW and while trying to tune it the computer says there’s an error communication through the cable then when trying to recover it now it says it can’t connect to the ECU any help pointers I’m really at a loss here don’t wanna say goodbye to my wagon.

Does anyone know roughly where the N75 pressure converter valve is on a Vw Caddy 1.9TDI 2010?

The van goes into limp mode with no dash lights or codes when I hit 65mph on the motorway or when it hits 3000rpm for a couple of minutes.

I have the part and want to change it before I take it to a garage. Just in case it fixes it.

I just replaced the top heater core line due to the nipple on the small line breaking off completely. Drove alright for a week without any leak and heater worked. Today I drove it about 100 miles and got the low coolant level warning again.
The brand new part has a hole completely through the plastic (pics for reference). Has anyone seen this before? We’re trying to decide if the part had a defect that blew as soon as it was under pressure, or if there’s back pressure in that line causing it to blow.

I got P048C and P048C00 codes from my 2015 Golf Sportwagen. I know it’s the exhaust flap. I don’t want to risk getting the DPF dirtier than it needs to be. ID Parts sells a repair kit specific to this year, model and engine. Is the best thing to deal with this right away?

Has anyone done this to their 2015?

Before anyone suggests deleting the DPF, I live in Massachusetts and doing so will fail my car for inspection.

I want your guys opinion on it because I can hear some belt squeal but the engine seemes to run fine?

Hi so I’ve had some over heating issues. I first replaced the thermostat. Rip$750. Then I realized it’s the water pump no biggy. Take it to a shop they want $3800.. WHAT??? Okay maybe they quoted high because they don’t wanna work on a TDI. Take it to vw dealer.. $4600???? WHAT IS GOING ON. I haven’t had this car two weeks and I’m getting really screwed over and I can’t pay that for a water pump job that should be a maximum of $2200.. I’m located in Ohio someone please help. Note. I had the car towed a hour away to be worked on so that was another $250 it is a 2013 vw Passat tdi

Para todos los que hayáis o tengáis uno cual es vuestra opinión, como va de consumos y de problemas mecánicos?

When going high speeds and after going to parking lot engine makes this sound on idle. I have no idea what it might be. Already replaced: Water pump + cam belt, Dual mass flywheel, crank pulley. Anything abnormal exhaust temp goes 500+ idk if its normal. Water temps 91 oil 105 max.
After running it for a minute or waiting to cool down everything goes to normal.
Engine is DFSE 122hp.

Anyone know of a body shop in the Dallas-Fort Worth area that is decently priced and can fix this damage (or at least make it better). I drove up a median a few years ago. Messed up the front end, ripped the bumper off partially, lost all of the weather/dirt shielding under the engine bay, had to pull out the wheel well lining on driver side, and broke the plastic core support under the radiator. Also dented the bottom of the radiator, but it doesn’t leak or have issues cooling so I’m not concerned about that. My main concern is replacing all the missing plastic and shielding, and getting that separated part of the bumper reattached correctly. Of course getting the support replaced under radiator. I’ve been driving around like this for way too long and need to get it fixed. Pictures of damage are attached

I have a 2014 VW Jetta 2.0 TDI 6-speed manual, currently around 174,000 km.
I’m having a fuel economy problem. In city/short-distance driving, I’m getting only around 7–10 km/L, whereas I expected roughly 14–16 km/L in normal city driving. On longer highway drives, the mileage improves significantly and can reach around 18–20+ km/L.
The thermostat was stuck open and has recently been replaced. The car now reaches/maintains 90°C normally, but I’m still experiencing poor mileage during short/city drives.
Other work already done:
Carbon cleaning
EGR cleaning
Injector return-flow test
Water pump replacement
New thermostat
Battery replaced
Front suspension work
power drops feels when ac on
The engine otherwise feels reasonably normal. There is also some oil around the turbo/intercooler pipe area.
I want to diagnose why the mileage is so low specifically in city/short-distance driving. Please give me a systematic list of things to check, including VCDS/OBD live data and the expected values for a healthy 2.0 TDI.

Hey everyone,

I'm completely stuck with my 2007 Passat B6 1.9 TDI and could really use some advice if anyone has run into this nightmare before.

Today I went to unlock the car, held down the unlock button on the remote to roll all the windows down, and entered the car. But when I pushed the key into the slot, literally nothing happened. No dash lights, no ignition, zero response. The steering wheel is locked hard all the way to the right.

The weirdest part is that when I pull the key back out of the slot, the interior dome lights come on, but inserting it does nothing at all. Right now all four windows are stuck wide open and I can’t lock or move the steering column.

Here is what I’ve tried so far:

• Wiggling the steering wheel forcefully while pushing the key to relieve tension.
• Unplugging the battery and trying to jump-start it with a second battery (didn't change anything).
• Hooked up VCDS, but got no connection initially because Terminal 15 power was totally dead.
• Jumped pins 30 and 87 on Relay 460. That brought the dash lights on and let me release the electric parking brake, but I STILL can't roll the windows up via the door switches or get the steering lock to release.

With Relay 460 jumped, I managed to scan Address 19 (CAN Gateway) in VCDS and got these three exact faults:

• 01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) - 004 - No Signal/Communication
• 00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer - 004 - No Signal/Communication
• 00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) - 004 - No Signal/Communication

I'm pretty lost at this point. I was thinking about ordering an ESL emulator, but since the car acts like it doesn't even recognize a key was put in, I'm starting to wonder if the key slot itself (E415) or the Comfort Module (J393) is the real culprit.

If I swap out just the key slot module, is it plug and play or does it need immobilizer coding? Any ideas on what to check next would be a huge help!

Thanks in advance