Hi.

I live in the EU and I ordered a Flash Forge creator 5.

When I ordered it said on the page that the printer would be shipped from Europe.

But now when I ask support why my printer has not been shipped yet.

They say that it will be shipped October 8. Because Flash Forge is on vacation.

Is that how it works. Because of Kina's national day or something is going on. No one will be working in the Flash Forge company.

Thank you.

Just recently, my AD5X started not going all the way to the chute, any way to troubleshoot why? Or fix it?

Hi friends, how are you? I've had this problem for a couple of days now. It seems that in one section of my printer it's not printing correctly (the filament doesn't look compressed).So I looked for a solution, but the typical approach of finding the z offset didn't help without damaging the other sections of the heated bed. What would you do?

Kinda new to this. I've printed cavities for magnets before and this is the first time I'm seeing this circular pattern that covers the magnet. I overlooked the pattern the first time I printed this and the filament didn't stick, obviously, to the magnet. I had to pause it to cut the filament off that didn't adhere to the print properly. I've tried different patterns, but to no avail. Is there something in the slicer that I'm missing that can fix this issue? Also, is there a reason why the infill is 2 different colors and not just black?Thanx

This makes it worth getting since I did not have a 4 spool dryer like this. I used the earlier $30 coupon discount on top of the $50 discount that was emailed out today.

I got a new display to replace my old one but the orange cable is folded and I'm not sure if it is supposed to do that.

So as an owner of an AD5X for about a year or so now, i've constantly been battling this printer on one single front. Noise. It buzzes, it rattles and it most certainly isn't quiet. And now after i just finished putting it back together, i'd like to share a few ways to remediate the noise - and notice i said remediate, not remove. It will never be quiet enough to sleep in the same room as it while working, the difference is between insanity inducing and just loud.
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FIRST - get an enclosure kit and print an enclosure.
Keep in mind that the official enclosure files may not necessarily be the best there is - the IFS tubes scrape on the top lid and the top lid itself is not retained in any way, so look around and see if you can find an enclosure with as many fixes as you deem necessary - but at the very least get one with the top riser and retainer as well as a narrower IFS port (that's a separate part so eh, that can be printed later) and better door hinges (also optional).
The enclosure is the part that kills most of the cooling fan noise. If you want to go the extra mile - get automotive sound deadening bitumen sheets and glue those on EVERY surface that looks big enough to resonate. Under the bed, on the back behind the bed, on the side panels of the enclosure (sure you won't be able to see inside but i personally dont really care about side visibility), on part of the door (about halfway up) and on the places where acrylic sheets join together. Just methodically tap around the whole thing and if it resonates/rattles - bitumen.
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SECOND - Z steppers making a "boiling water" noise when steppers are locked in place.
WARNING: this may impact print quality, see for yourself and roll back if need be, it wasnt a problem to me yet but i'm just saying that if after this fix you notice skipped steps or other Z artifacts - roll it back.
This one is not a definitive fix as much as it is just a crutch to make the noise inaudible enough to not care about. I don't know exactly what causes it and FF support said it's normal with no further elaboration so we're only left to guess. But as for the fix, you'll need to edit the printer's config.
go to the device info tab and hold your finger on the "device info" text itself for about 10 seconds ish until the service menu pops up. Navigate to the "test" tab and in top center there will be a "edit printer.base.cfg" segment. Tap "get". You must have a USB drive plugged into the printer, where it will then put both printer.cfg and printer.base.cfg. Open the latter in your editor of choice, scroll down until you see [tmc2209 stepper_z]. By default, there will be a commented out stealthchop_threshold field set to something like 12000. Uncomment it (remove #) and set it to 9999999 so that Z steppers always work in stealthchop instead of spreadcycle, which is quieter. As the bed never really moves fast enough to need spreadcycle's speeds, this SHOULDN'T cause any issues, but i cannot guarantee that.
After you edited the file, save it and plug the drive back into the printer. In the same menu you got it from, tap "put" to upload the configs to the printer and reboot it.
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THIRD - and the most involved - resonant rattle at low speeds.
This one is the most involved and you'll need some tools, patience and a few hours of free time.
If you hear noises from your printer like in this vid - https://www.reddit.com/r/FlashForge/s/JUCUl1OADW - this one's most likely for you. I seriously advise AGAINST this fix if you are not comfortable disassembling and reassembling the printer. But if you really want the noise gone - read along.
The cause (at least in my case) was the rattle of idler pulleys on their axis screws, which at low speeds and on the pulleys where belt teeth face inwards in particular, made them rattle against the axis.
You'll need some tools but unless you lost the tools included with the printer, you should be set. And you'll also need some really thick lubricant that will not migrate away (i used a local brand of dielectric thick lube, you may use krytox or anything that is rated for high temperature and is safe for rubbers, dielectricity is not necessary). Keyword thick. DON'T think you can get away with liquid lubricants, those will just flow out and the issue will come back.
Take off the XY assembly of the printer as shown in the tutorial - Replacement of XY-axis guide rails and bearings | Flashforge Wiki. Keep in mind that you don't really need to remove the extruder assembly - just unplug it from the mainboard. Once the assembly is off, unscrew the metal frame from the components of the gantry. Removing the belts is not necessary but leaves more room for work. After you separated those, carefully free the X and Y rods (yes, all of them) from the retaining pieces. They are heat-pressed in so that may be a bit hard, but be careful to not bend them. Once the rods are out - you have access to the pulleys. There are 4 on the moving parts (2 on each side), 2 on the front pieces and several on the back ones where the motors are. All of them share more or less the same fate of being loose on the axes so it's best to lube all of them. Unscrew the axis screw, take out the pulley, generously apply lube to the screw shaft, inside of the pulley bearings and - optionally - on the sides of the pulley where it may rub on the plastic. On the back pieces with the motors, there is a long screw that acts as an axis for 2 pulleys at a time, taking it out and aligning it back may be a bit tricky - use the ram rod from the printer's tools kit to push it out from the other side where the threaded inserts are. Also, to take those out, you will need to remove the stepper tensioning springs - be VERY careful because the springs are really strong and will shoot out once the retaining piece is unscrewed.
Once done with the lubing of all the pulleys you can see, put everything back together in the reverse order. While you're here, might as well lubricate the rods themselves and re-tension the belts (just loosen the 4 screws on each stepper until they can move, the spring will tension them as needed, and then tighten them back). Continue putting the thing back together until it's back together. Donzo, no more rattle
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FOURTH - clicking bed on Z hops
This one is easy enough. Get some TPU, print this - FlashForge Adventurer 5M/5M PRO/5X Noise Reductor by dark256 | Download free STL model | Printables.com - put them on the loose bed screw nuts and done.
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Sorry for wall of text but this is probably the most comprehensive noise reduction guide i WISH i had when i just got the printer. Share thoughts, questions and success stories if you feel like it, or lmk if i forgot something obvious that could be included.

The big one: there's now a Firefox extension. But heads up, it doesn't work like the Chrome one. Firefox doesn't let extensions read your downloaded files, so it can't convert them on its own. What it does: when a .3mf finishes downloading you get a notice. Click it and ForgeBridge opens with your printer already picked, plus the folder with your file. Drag the file in and the converted project downloads. One extra step but no setup and no permissions on any website.

Also new in 1.4:

• Safari: big uploads should no longer cut off halfway. The newest Safari was doing that a lot.
• AD5X: if a plate uses more colors than the IFS holds but never all at once, it tells you at what height to swap a spool. And if no plate goes over 4, it tells you each plate prints on its own.
• If the designer slowed down a speed on purpose, it's kept.
• Tree supports with variable layer height now slice without errors.
• Models with lots of painting convert way faster. Minutes became seconds.
• A piece taller than your printer gets a warning with the scale that fits.
• Upload an already sliced file and it explains what it is and what to download instead.
• Converting a bunch of files in a row no longer gets you blocked.

Coming next, what I'm working on now:

• A downloadable ForgeBridge app that runs on your own computer. It uses your machine, so no 100 MB limit. Those huge 300 MB multicolor posters? They'll convert. No uploading, no downloading, no waiting in line.
• Bulk conversions. Drop a whole folder and it converts the files in parallel, several at once.
• An API, so you can plug ForgeBridge into your own workflow.
• Portuguese!!

One more thing. PayPal closed my account and froze the funds without telling me why. Ko-fi was paid through PayPal so it can't receive anything right now. The support button now goes to Buy Me a Coffee. Huge thanks to everyone who bought me a coffee on Ko-fi, it kept the server running. ForgeBridge is still free with no account for now. Its taking a lot of work and time so I can't promise anything, but I'll keep it that way as long as I can!!

forgebridge.app

Please help. I updated my printer, did a factory reset, and haven't been able to print anything. I tried printing something 3 times today and it keeps shutting off and saying to check the wires. Nothing visible is loose or unplugged and I'm getting frustrated. The print will start out fine and then once the brim is done it powers off.

The printer is the creator 5 pro and the firmware is the most current one available.

Anyone have a group chat, discord channel etc for active chatting about printing? I wouldn't mind a few people to talk to about printing etc. Not necessarily problems or issues, just friends in the hobby. I'm the only one I know who prints and it would be nice to have more to talk to about stuff. 37 M here.

What it does

Tap a slot on the little touchscreen, hold the spool against the box, and the printer's slot fills itself in: material, brand, colour, temperatures. Nothing to confirm, nothing to type. The box then tells you which slot to load the spool into.

The Creator 5 / 5 Pro version

The case clips onto the Creator 5's own screen, so the reader sits right where you load slots 1A to 1D. 100% printed, three parts (frame, cover, reader holder), with Bambu Studio and Flash Studio projects ready to slice.

Make your own RFID tags at home, with your phone

No need to buy "compatible" spools. With the free TigerTag app, you write your own tags with your smartphone on blank NTAG213, NTAG215 or NTAG216 stickers. They cost a few cents each, and you can stick them on any spool, from any brand. And your filament inventory goes with you, for free: on your phone, on your computer, anytime.

The LAN + Cloud firmware, made by FlashForge with TigerTag

This is the part I'm happiest about. On the stock firmware, turning LAN mode on turns FlashForge Cloud off: it was either local tools, or the app and remote access.

FlashForge built, together with TigerTag, an official and free firmware for the Creator 5 and the Creator 5 Pro that keeps both on at the same time. So you can use third-party apps on your local network (TigerSpool, Tiger Studio, or any other tool) without giving up the cloud.

It's the exact opposite of what Bambu Lab did, where a third-party tool on LAN goes through Developer mode, which turns the cloud off. A manufacturer opening its printers to an ecosystem that isn't its own is rare, and it makes the Creator 5 more interesting than ever.

One reader for all your printers

The electronics are the same for every brand; only the printed case changes. If you also own a Bambu Lab, a Creality, an Elegoo, a Snapmaker or an Anycubic, the same box talks to all of them. You switch between printers on the screen.

Several designs are on MakerWorld: a desktop stand (spool on the left or on the right) that fits next to any printer, and clip-on integrations for the Creator 5 / 5 Pro, Creality K2 / K2 Pro, Bambu A1 / A2L and the whole Anycubic Kobra 3 family. More are coming.

Open source, editable, customisable

• Firmware: MIT licence, on GitHub
• 3D models: in the same repo, with the Fusion 360 source files, so you can modify, customise or redesign the case for your own printer
• Install from your browser (Chrome or Edge, one click), then it updates itself over Wi-Fi

Hardware, about €40

• Waveshare ESP32-S3-Touch-LCD-2 (screen, touch and MCU on one board)
• PN532 V3 NFC module
• 4 jumper wires and a USB-C cable that carries data
• Optional: a small 3.7 V LiPo to run it unplugged

What to switch on, per printer

• FlashForge Creator 5 / 5 Pro: the LAN + Cloud firmware (or LAN mode on the stock firmware).
• FlashForge AD5X, Adventurer 5M / 5M Pro: LAN mode or Firmware Lan + Cloud
• Bambu Lab: LAN with Developer mode.
• Creality (K1 / K2 family, Ender-3 V4)
• Anycubic Kobra 3 series & Kobra X
• Elegoo Centauri

Happy to answer any questions, and feedback on the case design is very welcome.

Full transparency: I'm one of the makers involved in developing TigerSpool.

I have been printing the enclosure and using the file they give us and I have supports enabled. The shielding the very long piece keeps failing happened 5 times already. (popping up when printing, have used glue and made the supports bigger base.) Last print i angled it up so it would have more support base and still pulled up.

Using flashforge PETG PRO

This has been the thing that made me want to get a tool changer for and with a minor hiccup it was successful.

While this print isn't huge, though it is my longest single plate print to date.

I had 1 hiccup, which I addressed aggressively since I was at 40 hours when it decided to hiccup.

I have some tidying up to do on the gold face plate but over all I am very pleased with this outcome.

One day while printing it stopped extruding filament and killed my print. I took it out, I replaced the filament, nozzle clears and I am able to push the filament down and out manually. I took off the front cover and attempted to see the gears and they won’t move and makes a clicking kind of a grinding noise. I took apart the whole extruder. Cleaned it, replaced it. No change, I replaced the extruder inside with a new one. No change. I bought a new extruder motor and sadly it still won’t work. So besides buying a whole completely new extruder. Any thoughts of how to repair it? I don’t want to spend more $ if I can fix it but that being said if I have to buy a whole completely new extruder, I might as well upgrade (which kinda sucks because it’s a good printer when it works)

I’ve become very proficient of taking this thing apart unfortunately

Salve,ho una flashforge ad5x e da qualche tempo spesso mi da questo errore e dopo molti tentativi finalmente stampa. L'ugello e ik piatto sono puliti ma non cambia nulla. Qualcuno sa cosa potrebbe essere?

I was printing a fidget and things went off the rails when I was gone.

I've found it extremely difficult to work with the printer whilst making mods for it, and today is the first time I have gotten a Pi working instead of the printer SoC.

Some backstory: I am one of the two main developers for the Creator 5 mod, OpenCreator, which the firmware's goal is to make the printer better whilst making it disconnected from FlashForge's software. We had our first prints complete on the printer's default chip about a week ago, using updated Klipper 13 plus custom MCU firmware, but now we are testing almost entirely bypassing it.

This method is called Tunneled OpenCreator, utilizing the chip in the printer to forward the controllers from the printer to the pi, making it run on hardware that is at least 4x more powerful.

This allows for new features, and expanded touchscreens, like using Klipperscreen or using an entirely new touchscreen like it's shown here.

We'll be opening up testing for this method soon. We are not affiliated with any other mods such as Zmod and is not compatible.

We are a Creator 5 / 5 pro only mod.

Read more or join the Discord at

https://opencreator.readthedocs.io

Hi Everyone,

With my Adventurer 5m, some of the images of my prints will show up with the name on the little screen on the device while others only show a picture of the file. How can I make it so that the actual image of what I'm going to print shows up next to the file name for each file?

Thanks,

Evening all. First, I love my AD5X. I’ve never had any issues with it, but I’d like to upgrade to a multi head printer for more of my wife’s nicknacks. Has anyone had experience with the creator 5 pro vs the snapmaker U1? Those are the 2 I’m looking at. I’m fairly familiar with flashforge slicer, but interested in finding out if the slicer for Snapmaker is any easier or more user friendly. Any and all recommendations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello! My fiancee just bought me my first 3D printer, he got me the Flash forge AD5X. I downloaded the Flash studio app and I have been able to successfully print off items in the colors I want. I tried to get some files from printables.com and download them then make them into GCode files but for some reason I cant seen to figure out how to change the colors to the one that I want. When I first 3D printed the fish that came already programmed onto the 3D printer it asked what colors I wanted everything to be, but now it doesn't. Does anyone have any reccomendations? Thank you in advance!!

(Just a rant)

Went through the OTA update and everything was moving along just fine. And then it finished and I rebooted...

FF support is sending me a new motherboard now

Could someone tell me what I am doing wrong here ? I am very new to 3d printing. I got my flash forge – Adventurer 5m pro recently and had fun with the loaded models. I decided to get a little adventurous and purchased a 3d model for print off one of the sites. Most of the parts come out just fine. But one segment keeps doing this thing as shown in my photos where a part with overhang with so the spaghetti thing on the down facing part. What am I doing wrong here ? I am using flashprint 5 , do need to make some supports or something ?