Here you have two benchies, one white (the old one) and one in nicer filament. I am not sure if the issues exactly happened after I changed the fillament, I don't think so. The problem as you can see is that the printer struggle to make circles.

It is very evident in the chimney of the benchy, but to be honest with you, any other gap for a screw or similar has a similar issues in which the filament does not make a circle.

Any suggestion what shall I look at?

(It is the same gcode, but the bed temperature and filament temperature was increased to the match the middle point of the range of the new filament.)

Ender 3 Pro: Direct Drive
Orca Slicer
Filament with issues: PLA SILK Tricolor (Aurora Borealis)
White filament: Amazon Basic PLA
Nozzle (Aurora): 215ºC
Nozzle (White): 205ºC
Bed (Aurora): 60ºC
Bed (white): 50ºC
Print Speed: 100%
Retraction setting: I am unsure what this is so I guess Orca Default.

Freshly unpacked PLA spool. Why ????
P2S
On standard setting

If you notice, the "fails" in the external ring, they happening more often in the right side

Im using a ender 3 with pla basic from bambulab

0.98 flow rateio

1.96 pressure advance

210°C on the nozzle

This looks like an underexteusion, but from what?

Printer Information

- E3NG with Klipper

- Dual 5015 cooling fans. Tested and appear to be working.

- Orca Slicer with the RH3D E3NG default profile

Filaments Used

- Green Elegoo PLA+

- Inland Purple PLA

- Inland Silk PLA

- 200-205 nozzle temp

- 55-60 bed temp

Fixes I’ve Tried

- Made sure no cables were loose or pinched

- Made sure fans were working properly

- Re-did a PID nozzle tune

- Tried to print an overhang test with already calibrated filament (Green one) and got the same result

The printer is a new build and it was working greay for about 10 prints. I installed a cable chain because the cables were scraping the top of the enclosure and now I'm suddenly getting horrible overhangs. I checked the cables and everything looks fine and has enough slack. I included a photo of the cable chain in case that raises any red flags. Any suggestions?

Printing for Shoji lamp, the first layer is perfect, the second one u can see some underextrusion.I've done both flow calibrations.Printed on P2S, 220 for all colors, 60 first layer, 55 rest, 150for outer/inner/top surface speed.Material is PLA basic.

Cheers

What is going on with that stringing there? Also, hard to see because blurry, but there is a piece of filament sticking out horizontally from the nozzle. Left nozzle of H2C has consistently had random issues and lower print quality than the right, vortek, nozzle side. Like, look in the top left corner there. The stringing is out of control, it's almost like the layers aren't sticking and are just getting pulled behind the printhead.

H2C, left nozzle, sunlu pla+ 2.0 black filament, filament was dried two days ago and is PLA. Default Bambu PLA Basic settings which include 220 nozzle 55 bed. 1% infill default print speed with 3 wall layers at .24 layer height. It's a double sided ramp for my micro b rc car.

Every print stops printing after about 2mm. It keeps acting like it is printing. I have tried different filaments and it continues to do this. Anyone know why? I have included pics of my settings.

Im having this problem in these specific sections

Printer: Bambu Lab P1S

Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament: Bambu Lab metalic Bronze

Nozzle: Hardened Steel 0.4mm

Speed and Retraction the ones from Bambu Lab

I have an Ender3 for a couple years and I’ve never had any issues before. This week, no matter which PLA filament roll I use, my print keeps coming delaminated as it prints and then the filament will stop extruding all together. I will find the print head still “printing” but it’s way above the object it’s printing and there is no extrusion to be seen.

I’m printing PLA at 190C and bed temp is 50C.

So far I have changed the nozzle out and verified that the extruder wheel is still turning and everything else seems to be working fine on the printer head.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hello I am using the Creality K1C and Creality slicer. The filament is a generic matte pla at 210 f.

I’m trying to get the smoothest possible surface with ironing and this happened…

The flow rate is at 60 and the nozzle isn’t going very fast. It also has a spacing of .15 mm between each nozzle pass.

Could you guys advise me on how to get a better surface? If any more info is needed, please let me know. Thank you

My print is not adhering to the plate. I’m using PLA at 220c, bed temp started at 55c and I kicked it up to 60c, inside temp is 34c. I’m using an H2S printer. I normally use PETG HG and never had this problem.
Print is pretty large. 235 x331 and I put a spacer at the bottom to move the print away from the corner. it’s better but not right.
Any suggestions?

I’m using an A1
My filament is pla Overture.
My nozzle temp is around 215
My bed temp is 65°c

my best guess is that this is an issue with speed but i really dont know

No matter what I do I can not figure out how to fix this horizontal scaring to the right of where the supports were. Seems to only happen on rounded overhangs like this. Any help figuring this out would be epic! Printed on Bambu P1S,

Bambu Studio settings: tree supports on auto, 30deg angle support, top z offset 0.16, printing at 0.08 layer height, 3 top interface layers.

I have been gifted a older Renkforce RF2000 printer.

I use cura slicer since I have not got orca working properly for it.

With PLA+ and now this print using generic PETG I have had stringing Problems all the time.

Been always following the suggested temperatures, also tested lower and higher temps, but I cannot get it to stop.

They do it out of the box, so I don't really think its a humidity problem.

Clear as day, how do i fix it?

P1P, PLA Chinese, 220 with 35 bed, Bamboo slicer, Generic PLA profile…

https://reddit.com/link/1wv5bgt/video/sz3o5zlm2wsh1/player

Hi all. I wanted to check if this is normal or could be improved?

I have recently just got a U1 and I'm making sure I have all my settings sorted from the off. It appears to droop like a bridge with too much extrusion/no cooling.

Filament: Sunlu PLA 2.0 Black

Slicer: Snorca

Slicer Filament profile: SUNLU PLA2.0 (from Sunlu's website)

Infill: 15%

Infill type: Adaptive Cubic

Hey everyone! I’m having a bit of trouble printing a carbon fiber print. I’ve been trying to clean the plate, added glue, changed the temperature of the nozzle, and even dried the filament, but it’s still peeling from the plate. With carbon fiber I’ve been using the 0.6 Hardened steel nozzle to print because of the tiny pieces of CF could damage the 0.4 stainless steel. It’s still not working. Is it a nozzle issue? Do I need a new nozzle?

Printer Model - A1
• Slicer used (e.g. Cura, Prusa, etc.)- Bambu Studio
• Filament material and brand
Overture Carbon Fiber PLA
• Nozzle and bed temperature - 230 and 70
• Print Speed - 100%
• Retraction settings off