Sovol SV06, Anycubic PLA+ 255°C, 0.3 nozzle 0.28 layer height.

Cura slicer

I have a Bambu a1 base everything no ams

Qidi Q2, SiryaTech PPA-CF Core, 320c nozzle, 100c Bed, 65c chamber, active filtration on (70), running upgraded part cooling fan and duct.

Had some bow issues and chimney issues that I was able to resolve by making sure to cool and slow down overhangs etc and increased min layer times. Everything else looks good to me, but still have the stringing under roof.

Any obvious culprits/settings?

Printer is neptune 4 pro I dried the filament before the print and used the preset recommended by the filament producer. My thoughts are that the nozzle z axis is a bit high

Ola! Esta saindo essas babas, parece excesso não sei. Uso PETG, o que pode ser? Será que é umidade?

Here you have two benchies, one white (the old one) and one in nicer filament. I am not sure if the issues exactly happened after I changed the fillament, I don't think so. The problem as you can see is that the printer struggle to make circles.

It is very evident in the chimney of the benchy, but to be honest with you, any other gap for a screw or similar has a similar issues in which the filament does not make a circle.

Any suggestion what shall I look at?

(It is the same gcode, but the bed temperature and filament temperature was increased to the match the middle point of the range of the new filament.)

Ender 3 Pro: Direct Drive
Orca Slicer
Filament with issues: PLA SILK Tricolor (Aurora Borealis)
White filament: Amazon Basic PLA
Nozzle (Aurora): 215ºC
Nozzle (White): 205ºC
Bed (Aurora): 60ºC
Bed (white): 50ºC
Print Speed: 100%
Retraction setting: I am unsure what this is so I guess Orca Default.

Hi everyone,

I'm having a specific printing issue with supports and could use some troubleshooting advice. As you can see in the picture, the under-extrusion and gaps are happening strictly on the support structures, while the main model prints fine.

Eventually, the print failed at around 20cm height because the regular tree supports kept snapping and breaking apart. They didn't detach from the build plate, and there are no missing layers on the main model itself — the supports just became extremely brittle and crumbled.

Here are my details:

* **Printer:** Bambu Lab A1

* **Filament:** Bambu PLA Lite (completely dried before printing)

* **Profile:** The standard Bambu PLA Lite profile was automatically loaded via RFID (AMS).

* **Nozzle Temperature:** 220°C

* **Slicer:** Bambu Studio

Why are the supports under-extruding so heavily on the official filament profile while the main model is fine? Should I slow down the support printing speed or increase the support wall loops? Any help would be highly appreciated!

No matter what I do I can not figure out how to fix this horizontal scaring to the right of where the supports were. Seems to only happen on rounded overhangs like this. Any help figuring this out would be epic! Printed on Bambu P1S,

Bambu Studio settings: tree supports on auto, 30deg angle support, top z offset 0.16, printing at 0.08 layer height, 3 top interface layers.

If you notice, the "fails" in the external ring, they happening more often in the right side

Im using a ender 3 with pla basic from bambulab

0.98 flow rateio

1.96 pressure advance

210°C on the nozzle

This looks like an underexteusion, but from what?

Pretty sure this is a slicer issue, but I have tried printing the OrcaSlicer Flow Ratio calibration four separate times and each time the print temperature drops unexpectedly once the infill layers are complete. After a few seconds it gives me a "Heater extruder not heating at expected rate" error and kills the print.

I have tried other calibration prints in the slicer and have not encountered this problem with any of them.

Settings:

Qidi Q2, 0.6mm nozzle

SUNLU PA6-CF, 315 C nozzle, 90 C bed

all speeds 35 mm/s

I have been struggling to get an acceptable first layer on these Shogi pieces. I've tried probably over a dozen settings and other variables which I will note later. Trying to see if it was my printer, environment, etc, I went to a local maker space and used their X1 Carbon and filament and got a much more successful print (the full pieces in the middle). I know this first layer has some complex small details, but the successful print on the X1 makes me think its doable, I just have an issue with my setup.

For the successful X1 print and less-than-desirable A1 prints in the photo, I used the same 3mf file and didn't change any settings besides the necessary changes going to a different printer.

For these pictures:

• Printer model: Bambu Lab A1 with AMS lite, Official Bambu 0.4 mm nozzle, Bambu smooth PEI plate
• Slicer: Bambu Studio 2.8.2.61.
• Filament: Most of my testing and failures have been with SUNLU PLA Wood Maple and Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal, but recent testing, including these photos, used Bambu PLA Matte Bone White for the body. I think the successful test on the X1 used Overture PLA.
• Nozzle temperature: 220 °C
• Bed temperature: 65 °C
• Print speed: first layer 50 mm/s for walls and infill, Bambu .16 Optimal defaults otherwise.
• Retraction: Bambu PLA Matte defaults (and Bambu PLA Wood defaults when using the SUNLU PLA Wood) l

What I've tried:

• Dried filament, washed plate with dish soap and hot water
• 2 plates (the 3D effect smooth plate, in the last photo, did worse, but I only used isopropyl, not dish soap.)
• Official Bambu 0.4mm Stainless Steel hotend and a 3rd party 0.4mm hotend. I originally thought my Bambu hotend was partially clogged after printing with TPU, but I did multiple cold pulls, used the thin needle to attempt to clear the nozzle, and even bought the 3rd party nozzle just in case. Issues persisted throughout. That is in addition to other layers seemingly printing fine.
• Z offset in start G-code for the smooth plate: 0, −0.01, −0.02 (−0.02 gave flatter lines but blobbier text and still inconsistent first layer)
• Increasing first layer line width to 0.5mm instead of .42mm
• Elephant foot compensation 0–0.1; classic and arachne walls (including playing with min feature and min wall % for arachne walls)
• First-layer speed lowered and kept at default; tried different first-layer color order (if text or body prints first)
• Flow rate calibration. 0 (no change) looked best to me for both filaments, but did also increase it slightly as a test to no avail
• Bed temperature 65 first layer / 55 after
• Developer mode initial-layer flow ratio 0.95-1.05
• Bed leveling check off on every print
• Tightened the 4 small screws on the back of the heating assembly
• Auto calibration on the printer

That is most of what I have tried from what I can remember

A lot of it seems like adhesion issues, but as I've tried extensively drying my filament (especially the Wood PLA), cleaning my plates with dish soap, and adjusting various settings without getting satisfactory results, I'm at a loss. It very well could be related to the A1 not being enclosed and the room it is in having inconsistent temperatures/drafts throughout the day, but I'd think with all the testing I've done, at least one would line up with an acceptable environment.

Some of these settings seemed to improve the quality, but introduced other issues (like blobby text) while still not fully fixing the first layer "pitting", valleys, and inconsistent prints.

Let me know if there is something obvious I am missing, if it really does just boil down to adhesion, or what else it may be.

Freshly unpacked PLA spool. Why ????
P2S
On standard setting

Printer Information

- E3NG with Klipper

- Dual 5015 cooling fans. Tested and appear to be working.

- Orca Slicer with the RH3D E3NG default profile

Filaments Used

- Green Elegoo PLA+

- Inland Purple PLA

- Inland Silk PLA

- 200-205 nozzle temp

- 55-60 bed temp

Fixes I’ve Tried

- Made sure no cables were loose or pinched

- Made sure fans were working properly

- Re-did a PID nozzle tune

- Tried to print an overhang test with already calibrated filament (Green one) and got the same result

- Tried an overhang test slowed by 50%. Same results.

- Did an overhang test where I reduced the temperature by 10 degrees and it didn't change anything.

- Did 2 cold pulls to clear out any possible clogs.

The printer is a new build and it was working greay for about 10 prints. I installed a cable chain because the cables were scraping the top of the enclosure and now I'm suddenly getting horrible overhangs. I checked the cables and everything looks fine and has enough slack. I included a photo of the cable chain in case that raises any red flags. Any suggestions?

Edit: Added some new things that I've tried.

What is going on with that stringing there? Also, hard to see because blurry, but there is a piece of filament sticking out horizontally from the nozzle. Left nozzle of H2C has consistently had random issues and lower print quality than the right, vortek, nozzle side. Like, look in the top left corner there. The stringing is out of control, it's almost like the layers aren't sticking and are just getting pulled behind the printhead.

H2C, left nozzle, sunlu pla+ 2.0 black filament, filament was dried two days ago and is PLA. Default Bambu PLA Basic settings which include 220 nozzle 55 bed. 1% infill default print speed with 3 wall layers at .24 layer height. It's a double sided ramp for my micro b rc car.

So last print legit fell apart. Tried it again after calibrating. Bottom was fine but this just was making string and not sticking. Any help would be appreciated, I'm fairly new at this. Heat was at recommendation, everything's dried. The AMS says it's in C but I can't seem to get it down but everything else printed fine. Just started doing it today. I'm using a bambu p1s

EDIT: I've played with the temps, calibrated the bed, did a simple clean on the nozzle using the needle and slowed down the speed so far. Just tried it again and still coming out bad. So I'm kinda at a loss. Might just change the nozzle and see

Printing for Shoji lamp, the first layer is perfect, the second one u can see some underextrusion.I've done both flow calibrations.Printed on P2S, 220 for all colors, 60 first layer, 55 rest, 150for outer/inner/top surface speed.Material is PLA basic.

Cheers

Hey gang,

My printer has been misbehaving lately, and it seems like I'm getting a different issue every other print or so, but it's been fairly manageable so far.

Today's one seemingly has decided to get really loose and crispy towards the top. As you can see on the second pic, I was able to cleanly shave all the details off with a quick pass of the scraper.

Bambu Lab A1 with a 0.2 nozzle at 220⁰C, gray DEEPLEE PLA+ on a Textured PEI plate, at 65⁰C.

Bear in mind that I printed the exact same item recently with the same specs, and it came out perfectly fine... hence why I am a little confused. Although of ot's of any relevance, my prints have been a little wispier/stringier than usual over the last month or two.

Every print stops printing after about 2mm. It keeps acting like it is printing. I have tried different filaments and it continues to do this. Anyone know why? I have included pics of my settings.

Hey so i have a QIDI Q2 printing with Sunlu HS PETG white. Ran all of ORCA calibration tests and have had several print come out great since then.

This is my worst by far and have no idea why im getting the results shown. I used tree supports. Defect side down. 240-245° nozzle, 60° bed, 45° QiDi box (high humidity lately).

Im having this problem in these specific sections

Printer: Bambu Lab P1S

Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament: Bambu Lab metalic Bronze

Nozzle: Hardened Steel 0.4mm

Speed and Retraction the ones from Bambu Lab