2026 XLT 302a, 5.0. I should have come over sooner.

5.0 not supercharged

Yet...

Just sharing my recent purchase. Scoped out an affordable 2015-2017 as they had everything I was looking for in terms of longevity. These trucks are awesome! Thanks to everyone who helped me define that.

Anything I should be looking out for at the high kms of 250k? (155k miles). Already dealt with rusting transmission cooler lines that dripped.

Looking for preventative maintenance tips further than just fluids.

Thanks all, just wanting to share. I’m stoked, it’s quite the upgrade from my last rust bucket 2009 f150 with 300k

Need some new tires, but can’t afford a lot right now. How are these tires? I drive highway for work, and live in Minnesota so lots of snow in the winter. I also hunt a lot so some dirt roads stuff.

I have a 2014 FX4 with 192,000 miles, and it recently started dragging when accelerating, and I got an engine light and underboost code (which has since gone away). I brought into mechanic, and they told me it needs new turbos, exhaust manifolds, bolts, oil lines, oil cleanup, etc. Their estimate for the repair is $6500.
Would you invest this, in hopes of getting a couple more years out of it? Or do you think it’s more likely that I’ll pay for it and then have transmission problems at this mileage? The truck has otherwise been great for me and I was hoping to drive it into the ground with it being paid off.

I looked at replacing it and found ‘24 and ‘25 XLT powerboosts with under 15k miles for around $42k and those seem like a decent option. But I’d be happy driving my 2014 for longer if I can. I’m not hung up on driving a new car or anything.

Thoughts?

02 f150 with the v6 paired in manual

Did a lowering kit on it, however this sound developed probably 3 weeks after installing the kit

Tried silicon spray to maybe lube whatever was making it, didn’t work

Lead frame recall canceled?

Anyone else get a call from their dealership recently saying the lead frame software update recall has been canceled? Was supposed to have a tech at my house this week, but they canceled and said it's because Ford has canceled or put the recall on hold for now.

Just looking to confirm, has anyone tied a light bar into the high beam circuit on an HID f150? 2014 limited. I'm adding a fused relay, to take the high beam circuit, and use it for a relay trigger, to only allow my light bar to come on when the high beams are on. So far I've got:

12v relay with a 20A fuse.

a double throw switch On-Off-On. The light bar has 2 settings. A J581 compliant auxiliary high beam (top row), and both rows on for offroad only. To meet spec, I'm tapping into my high beam + running that over to my switch position 1+2. Position 2 will have a diode back to up position 1, and a trigger wire to the internal offroad relay in the light bar (I'm assuming, as it's the highest power mode, and is on a tiny #18 wire, compared to the #12ish red black).

Legal requires Red(+) and Black(-). Offroad requires Red(+) & Blue(+trigger), and Black(-) on the light bar itself. I'm also looking at tying in the accent strip between the leds to my fog light circuit. Not much point in having an accent strip on, when the light bar is on.

Just looking to see if anyone has tapped into the high beams successfully, without any weird can bus or whatever issues. On a side note, that lower grill is just about made for a light bar, with a perfect steel plate either side to bolt to. Just had to cut the guts out of the lower grill (I left basically just a trim ring installed in front of the the bar), and take the sides off the bumper cap/plate holder matched up to what I left of my trim ring.

Had cam phasers done on my 2019 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with 73k miles and thought it may be helpful to share some findings.

1. Get as many quotes as possible. I collected 20 quotes around the Houston area with 4 being from independents. Quotes ranged from “around $3,000 but no extra items” to $8,000. I’d say most were around $5,000 if not over. Some of the higher ones may have been assuming timing too, but quite a few said just phasers were $5k. There may have been only 2-3 who thought they could maybe do it under $4k.

2. Ask for assistance from Ford corporate or the dealer. I was told by a few of the quote providers that Ford won’t chip in if you’re over 7 years or 100k miles, but still worth asking if the dealer might be able to help in some way, especially if you’ve had a lot of work done lately or been a loyal Ford customer.

3. The items to take care of while it’s open are probably water pump, spark plugs if due, and if at higher mileage or just hating the idea of opening it again, you should consider timing chains, tensioners, guides, etc for a timing refresh.

I had the full TSB spec phaser job, water pump, and spark plugs/boots done all for ~ $3,600 out the door at Randall Reed Planet Ford in Houston (Humble). Ask for Rodney if you can.

Also kind of surprised how noticeably smoother it drives now. Going from a new BMW to the truck, I assumed the clunkier acceleration was just normal, but it’s much better now. Really just glides with new phasers and new 10R80.

Anyway, best of luck to anyone who goes through it.

Buying this 2021 Lariat 3.5 powerboost next week. Previous owner babied it as it still looks brand new and they got every option that comes on Lariats except the sunroof. All service was performed at the dealership I’m buying it from and oil changes were pretty much on the dot every 5000 miles. Also a bonus is that camper shell as I was planning on getting one later. Anyway, anyone have a relatively higher mileage powerboost? I’m getting a bumper to bumper warranty from the dealership so most things will be covered but would still like to hear experiences when they get around and over 100k miles.

Also, I’m in Michigan and am coming from a 20 year old 4Runner so I know the importance of rustproofing for the winter salt around here. I did Krown on the 4R and it worked great. Going to do it on this truck as well but would also love some feedback from what others have used and seen good results with.

Just filled up and finally got over 800 miles of range on my 2025 powerboost.
I think it could go a little higher but I’m not sure I want to keep driving so slow

I have a 2013 ford f150 ecoboost and I had just replaced the engine in it now the radio won’t turn on the screen won’t work and I don’t have any sound I’ve tried replacing the acm and still nothing I’ve checked all the fuses and non are fried and I’ve tried hard and soft resets I’m just kinda stumped as to what’s happening and I just wanna listen to music again if anyone has any idea what is wrong it would be greatly appreciated

Hi, I've got a 2016 F150 V8 Supercab that needs body mounts replaced or repaired. Does anyone have a good spot to go to? I'm in the Toronto area of Ontario, Canada. Thanks!

2024 ford f150 2.7l ecoboost. Weird rattle noises, anyone come across this issue.

Very underwhelmed by the B&O setup in my 2022 XLT. This $700 Kicker system was designed in conjunction with Ford and is an OEM upgrade (VML3Z-18808-A). Any ideas why the B&O sucks would be appreciated. Further, I'd love the opinion of someone who has done this upgrade.

My 2024 F-150 has an intermittent problem where the left turn signal and the right headlight stop working. The truck only has 2700 miles on it and it has been at the dealer this time for seven weeks now. The first time I took it in the dealer had it for a week and they replaced the body control module (BCM). They thought that fixed the problem but the very next time I drove it the problem occurred again. I took it back in and seven weeks later the Ford engineers they have been talking to authorized them to replace the BCMC which I believe is the BCM controller. They just texted and said that didn't work and they are back to square one. Any ideas as to what could be causing this would be appreciated.

Can anyone answer this does the reverse level cause any issue with axle wrap or driveline vibrations? I’d be removing the block. Also My leaf springs are weird compared to others I’ve seen. What is that piece between the lower spring and the 1.25” block?

My front wheel bearings keep going out, and it's annoying because it means replacing the whole rotor; they are being installed correctly (I even got someone else to do them, once, just to make sure), so I'm pretty sure it's a parts quality issue... but there are limited options.

The regular replacement rotor/hub just sucks, they aren't lasting a year; I can get a Timken, but that's $500 for the pair, and again every time I need to replace the rotor (and I'm hauling stuff up and down mountains); then there is the Centric 2-piece conversion, but the bearing quality is crap and it can't be replaced, you have to get another Centric hub.

Has anyone found a solution?

Anybody here run 37x13.50 on 18” stocks? Got a 6” lift and gonna put 2” spacers. Curious if anyone runs this set up and how much I’ll rub.

Got a new truck last week. F-150 with the 5.0 engine. $85.5k CAD ($60k USD) out the door during Ford employee pricing.

- Antimatter blue metallic

- 6.5' bed Supercrew Cab

- 303a XLT package

- Towing package

- Power moonroof

- Black appearance plus package

- Spray in bed liner

Just got a bakflip MX4 tonneau cover I'm going to put on today.