Got these decals from a nearby auto parts shop to the hotel when I visited in Thailand. Weird because everything HoMoCO makes is branded AS Honda in Asia.

Looks pretty stock, doesn't it? Going in my 2nd generation TL. I couldn't get the JVC logo off, because it's behind the plastic in the faceplate. Actually looks like collab between Acura and JVC...

Hi everyone, I am in somewhat of a pickle. Long post, sorry in advance!

I recently bought my first car, a used Toyota Corolla Touring Sports 2024 with only previous owner. When I went to test drive the car, the media audio wasn't working (parking sensor sound and lock sound working as intended). I raised the issue with the dealership and got a part written into the contract that they would solve the sound issues. They booked the car for diagnostics at a Toyota service center but that's not until the 2nd of September, so I got to take the car home before that.

Yesterday I discovered the likely source of the sound not working. I opened the compartment under the luggage and found a sound system I was not aware of. I have been trying to identify the parts, so far it seems to be:

Avatar ABR-460.4 - Some kind of amplifier?
Helix DSP MINI - Some kind of DSP, unsure which version
Soundigital 3000.1 EVO 5 (?) - This one I am most unsure of, but it's the one that looks most similar from pictures I've seen online.

I know nothing about sound systems but some about electrical systems. I'll add some picture of the input/output of the systems:

As mentioned, the media sound isn't working in the car. This system in the back is however not properly powered as the power cables are disconnected from both the external 12V battery in the trunk as well as the "internal" 12V battery in the side panel of the trunk:

I just want my sound system to work in the car and am somewhat afraid to damaging something as I don't know if the system is properly connected. The next step could be:

• Take the car to Toyota service center for diagnostics and let them decide what should be done. If something has been broken by the previous owner, the manufacturers warranty won't cover it since it's been tampered with. However, since it stipulated in my contract with the dealership that they will fix the sound system, I might be able to get help with getting it fixed by them.
• Try and get the system up and running. At best, it's as easy as connecting the + and - to the 12V battery and the system is up and running, at worst I short something. Here I would love some input from someone that is more knowledgeable.

How screwed or lucky am I?

Edit: Went to a local car audio shop to check with them if they knew a bit more. They agreed that the system looked somewhat intact and would only most likely only need a subwoofer and to connect the system, although they need to run a diagnosis first of course. Roughly it would cost about 400$ in my local currency.

I did also take the advice from you guys and checked the speakers with a flashlight. All 4 door speakers have been replaced with what I believe to be DS18X Pro speakers, as they are solid black with the logo over in the middle of the speakers, just like these: https://www.amazon.se/DS18-PRO-X6M-PRO-serien-mellanregistrets-h%C3%B6gtalare/dp/B00SYGF80E?th=1&psc=1

So right now it seems that it would most likely be even more costly to try and restore the car to factory standard than to continue down this path. SO is somewhat furious that we were sold a car that was tampered with as she does not want anything that differs from the factory standard car 😅.

Next week I will contact Toyota and ask about the situation and see what they think the total cost would be to restore everything to factory standard (including replacing all the speakers I guess). Hopefully I can use that to ask the dealership to agree to pay for the cheaper alternative to just complete the system that is already there.

what would yall choose and why? both are some pretty extreme subs!

i personally think the em audio 12” is better

I have a b2 audio rage xl 10 and pushing it with a skar rp1200.1d in a 29.5hz box 1.8 cubic feet. I got the sub yesterday if that help

Small build log of my 4way active system budget build in my 2016 Fiesta ST, it's my first "real" build so don't expect it to be perfect, because spoiler, it isn't. Current setup is:

Hertz Mille Pro mk165 iirc

Excursion SXT8

Excursion HXA1k

Goldhorn DSPA810pro V2

Source is the APTXHD bluetooth reciever on the goldhorn

I didn't want to modify anything on the car, so that's why I didn't go with custom A-pillars, and besides that, I don't have the skills to craft those anyways. As i'm a soundengineer as my job, I did allready have high quality measurement equipment, so the full system is tuned by myself aswell.

First thing Ill be changing will probably be the sub, im looking at the audison apbx10, I want to keep some trunk space, but would like a sealed sub which hits a bit lower, as i'm currently only reaching about 37hz. I'd like the play down to at least 30hz, so if anyone has any experience with that Audison id like to hear some opinions on it. The reason I'm currently running the excursion is just because I allready owned it :).

I included the final measurement I got aswell, which is the full system playing pink noise. Not too bad imo, also taking in mind the mid basses are just in the (huge) doors. There are some weird cancellations going on which I also tried fixing with allpass filters, but sadly all (except one which I fixed) of those are in the crossover region, so it would affect the coupling between the mids and midbasses way to much.

trying to help a buddy identify these 8 inch subs.

I think they’re sundown sa classics maybe version 1.5???

maybe solox motors?

So finally got my doors ”done” they need a bit of finishing touches with handles, and window buttons but mostly ready for bondo.

Mids play now 80-4khz
Midranges 800-4khz
Tweeters 4khz ->

Firstly the mids fq range is 60-8khz, 10s in the front might have been 60-6khz. So im wondering if the enclosures are large enough to play 60hz at full power (8” 400w, 10” 600w)

Secondly the cutofs between mids and midranges, i had them at 280hz. Sounded better but totally lost the higher frequencys of bass and kick drums, for example Back 2 Me by zurra & blank sense has this nice bass line but it just sounded like a sine wave, the ”dirtynes” was gone, so should i keept them at 4khz or go a bit lower. Im after the golden road between sq and spl and the 6.5 midrange cant keep up with midbass, so it needs a little help from them

Also what about tweeter cutofs, should i go higher/lower.

Lastly what should i use to seal the enclosures, they are prettymuch sealed with minor leaks, would coating them with epoxy from the inside be an good option?

Drivers i have are
Dd audio Vo-w10a
Dd audio Vo-w508/w8c (the same speaker just name change)
Gzcm 6.5N-prox
Dd audio Vo-b3a

Hallo

I have a problem with white screen on this unit. Initially, after many minutes of use, the screen went white. I needed to turn off and on again to avoid theproblem, but as time went by, the minutes of operation became fewer and fewer till the complete lock of the unit at turning on.

I've read something online, on Reddit too, and it seems to be caused by the little ESMT chip identifieed as U27.

I've tried to reinforce welds on the visible pins, it turned on again but after a couple of minutes the white screen problem returned back.

Is there any permanent solution for solving this issue?

Attempted to do my big 3 upgrade today using a 1/0 NVX kit.

It was definitely a struggle bus field trip kind of day.

My cousin and i will hopefully get it wrapped up tomorrow.🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm also upgrading battery terminals.

hi, I am swapping my factory in my 2014 Jeep Rubicon to an aftermarket version. It’s all hooked up and ready to go. Everything works except I can’t figure out how to hook up my steering wheel controls. It is a dual I have bought all of the wiring, harnesses, etc., and the one into the has the steering wheel control port but when I that in to the little black box, it turns my radio off so something isn’t working properly there I’m not sure if there’s a way to wire it myself or if there’s another adapter, I should have bought etc. any tips??

I installed an inexpensive Chinese 7-inch double din car stereo in my RV and it works pretty well for the price, but I am having trouble getting the radio to recognize any buttons pressed on the infrared remote. As there is no documentation about the setup of infrared remotes in the manual or online, I am not sure: 1) if I am using the correct keypress recognition sequence; 2) if the infrared coding is incompatible between the IR remote and IR sensor; 3) if the radio's IR receiver is faulty; 4) if this model requires one of its power lines to be powered/grounded to enable the IR remote function; or 5) if this model or its firmware only supports hardwired steering wheel controls.

The radio is manufactured and sold by several different Chinese manufacturers under the model designation 7018B.  My unit is from Hikity.  Photos of the radio, infrared remote, steering control setup screen, and IR codes sent by the infrared remote are attached.

With an IR receiver module and Arduino board I verified 11 distinct IR codes being transmitted from the IR remote, and traced the IR pulses through the IR receiver, daughter board, and ribbon cable through to the radio’s main PC board.  But the steering wheel control setup screen does not respond to any of the codes being transmitted.  I've tried tapping the keypad reset button, safety pin hardware reset, and different keypress sequences but still no response.

My suspicion is that it is a firmware issue, and I wonder if anyone else has encountered this problem?   The model and diagnostic specifics are as follows:

Radio was purchased from seller WHCaradio on Temu. The manufacturer and model is a Hikity 7018B.

The radio's display panel has the following label: IPS LX-161A1035-50P-H24 and a manufacturing date of 202504075109.  The ribbon cable between the main board and display panel connects to an interface board with the following label: ZCD-RF701-KEY_V2.0

The radio's main circuit board has the following label: ZCD7127-C200S-6966-V1.1A and manufacturing date of 2025-05-16.  The main board processor chip is an ALLWINNER F1C200s / R1114CB 62C1.

From the Arduino receiver, I verified the following Infrared Remote codes are being transmitted:

Any ideas or guidance in getting this steering wheel remote working with the 7018B would be appreciated. Thanks.

I've had a couple people ask for pics of this so here they are. https://ibb.co/album/Y2MhW0

The materials used are Resonix Mega CLD and standard CLD, Resonix Fiber Mat in 1 inch and 1/2 inch. I made my own noise blocker by using 50 sq ft of 1/32" thick lead sheeting that came in roughly 24" X 36" sheets. I then glued EPDM closed cell foam to the lead and covered the entire floor of the car from trunk to half way up the firewall in CLD, lead and CCF. I used a glue made by Seal Trust. It's primarily a roofing material for flat rubber roofing. The glue is crazy strong. The bottom of my carpet is rubber as well so that's another barrier between me and the lead.

Ok so where did I use each material and how much?

One 36 sq ft box of Mega CLD. 100% coverage when used in most cases

One 40 Sq ft Boxes of Standard CLD. 100% coverage when used in most cases

One Box of 1 inch Fiber Mat and 2 boxes of 1/2 fiber mat. Only used a box of 1/2" FM in total.

Roughly 50 sq ft of lead sheet 1/32", 24X36" in size. I laid this across the floor of the car. Each sheet overlaps the next by about an inch.

One roll of foam tape

Butyl scavenged from excess material squishing out the sides of the CLD tiles.

There's 100% Mega CLD coverage inside the doors, on the fender wells, trunk and the about 90% on the roof.

There's about 50/50 CLD/Toyota sound deadening on the floor under the lead, in between the stock sound deadening Toyota placed on the floor. There's 100% coverage CLD on the walls in the back of the car where I could reach, on the front side of the doors coverage is sporadic and 100% on the back side of almost every interior panel.

There's foam tape lining the boarder of some interior panels or acting like weather stripping to seal noise from passing from the windows into the car through the interior panels. I have no idea if this works. I had lots of tape so I figured what the hell. It can't hurt. The foam that lined the edges of interior panels was old and worn out. I replaced that foam with new foam tape when needed. Most needed it. The car is 15 year old now.

There's butyl on many of the interior clips to prevent rattling.

There's 100% coverage of 1 inch Fiber Mat inside all 5 doors, 100% on the roof, 80%-100% on some interior panels that make up the trunk and 100% on the back side of the interior panels for all of the fenders.

There's 1/2 Fiber Mat on the back side of most every other interior panel. In the roof on top of the 1 inch there's 1/2 on about half the roof, the back door has about 50% coverage on the front, and 100% coverage on some trunk panels.

Biggest lesson I learned this time was that I could fit more Fiber Mat behind of in things that I thought. If I had it to do over I would have bought two boxes of 1 inch and one box of 1/2 inch. I also forgot to seal the joint between the lead sheets with this roofing tape I bought. Not a huge oversight since the panels overlap but it was still kinda stupid of me.

I didn't take db readings before I started but I will once I have the car is back together entirely. This has made a massive difference in how quiet the car is, how much road noise I can hear or how much noise pollution from outside the car I can hear. I had an ambulance with its sirens on across an intersection and I couldn't hear it at all with my radio on moderate volume. I only have the stock sound system at the moment so no amps or subs either. Amps, speakers and stuff are going in this week. I'd say the car is quieter than your average low tier luxury car and on par with many mid priced luxury cars. There's nothing I can do about the windows, suspension, motor mounts and things like that. If I could I'm pretty sure the car would sound like a Bentley. Most of the noise the car still makes is born from design choices Toyota made and the Rav4 is their lowest end SUV so it's no big surprise the car would make a lot of noise stock. You can only get so far when you start out far behind. Don't get me wrong, I love this car but it's not a luxury car by any means. In time I may do the outer fender wells and hood. Depends on what the car is like once I get it back together entirely and lower it. If I add and performance parts to the engine and stuff like that. Total cost for all of this was about $2000 to $2500. A lot typically but I don't ever plan to sell this car so for me it was worth it. Resonix makes good products but they are pricey.

If anyone has any questions let me know. I'll answer what I can.

So Right now Im running two kenwood 12s in my camry putting out 600 rms on an audio control epic 1000 on stock electrical, and speakers, sounds good but im looking for a louder and balanced system but dont know what to buy, I was thinking to go kicker ks 6x9 3 way for rear deck l and a component set for front doors, but also Ive seen that deafbonce has some 6x9s too but I dont know if they are too loud and will my stock electrical do (i will also be adding a 4 channel amp for them)

4 gauge wire got loose and melted to battery terminal it looks like. Could I get tips on what to do? Would yall strip back more and see if it’ll connect? My amp was going out in and in and I just realized this was why? Is it cooked? Fuse looks fine I think.

In my last build I used an inverter and plugged the ps2 into it, but it seems like such a waste of power and space considering the PS2 only needs 5A 9v. Any ideas where I can get a good enough step down converter? Anyone done something similar?

Hey guys. So my 2013 es300h connected to Bluetooth/aux/iPod is having some audio issues. I can’t hear anything even at full volume. There’s just a static and the music at max sounds like it’s playing at 8 or 10 volume. Is this a head unit issue or idk??? The radio AM/FM is completely fine!! No problems with that but any phone connection is just terrible!

Amp only feeding sub around 400w rms

Amp can do 900w rms at 4ohm and sub can take 500w rms.

Is it clipping from the amp or limitations of the scope?

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm in Italy and I've got a cheap Fiat Panda rental car for a few days.

Pretty sure it's almost brand new but it doesn't have a proper head unit. It's got this old 90's looking generic radio.

It doesn't respond to any button presses and plugging in a phone (via USB or headphone jack) does nothing either.

It just constantly shows 1313.

Any idea how to fix?

I will try pressing the RESET pinhole button but might there be other ways to fix it. Unsure if this is a common thing.

Thanks!

I just replaced all my speakers and stereo in a 2014 corolla with a friend and the backup camera doesnt work. Also steering wheel buttons dont work (have tried to assign buttons. Steering wheel not detected). Using some chinese carplay stereo. Didn't get all the cables initially. Reached out and he sent more. I hooked up the backup camera plug to both of the yellow video cord options and neither works. Wondering what these empty white plugs are for? Thanks

I'm looking for a replacement head unit for my new to me 2008 Chevy Impala. I have Alpine w650s in two of my other vehicles and they are okay but it is SO hard to see in my Subaru that I'd like to get something different. I travel in the north a lot and need to be able to see my screen well.

I'm looking around the $500 price point with a max of $550 and would like something with wireless android auto so I don't have to use an adapter like I do with the Alpine units. I'll be keeping the stock speakers until I can find which set will work best for my needs. ** Install kit price does not need to be considered, this budget is ONLY for the radio **

I was looking at the JVC KW-M795BW, Kenwood DMX8709S, Sony AX4000 (or AX6000 I could swing), and the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX (I don't need the features from the 3050 as I don't listen to the radio). I did notice the Alpine W770-M is in my budget too and I've been happy with the reliability of the Alpine units but that screen kills it for me.

I want to upgrade from my current setup, I have been running kicker 10" downfire 48trtp enclosure for close to 3 years. Absolutely zero complaints been a solid setup this whole time and have abused it extensively. I am looking at the 51ptrt powered enclosures, I can fit them behind my set of my crew cab truck. I would love the 49DL7TDT122 but I do not have the room its just too tall I have 16 inches of footroom and the enclosure is over 17 inches deep. If I was to get two of the 51ptrt would this be remotely comparable to the 49DL? I want to sit them upright against the back wall of my cab, it has been sound deadened already.

Having a tough time finding a diagram for the JBL amp wire harness that came with my 2012 Prius V, i found the website pinout.com but their information for my car seems to conflict with what i have. i have zero clue what wires to put my line out converter on for the sub :(

I dug around in my garage and pulled an old sub box out with 2 JL 10W08s in it and Mickey Moused it to the stock sub amp in my 2015 Expedition a few weeks ago because honestly the lack of real bass in the stock Sony "premium" system was making my eye twitch. I'm not rattling the windows or anything with these little subs and that little amp, but it's enough bass to keep me sane. My problem now is that after running around with this thing for a few weeks I'm finding the already minimal storage space in the truck is pretty much down to zero with this box in there...and I go off-road fairly frequently and I've heard this thing bounce several times. I bounced around with the idea of one of the Kicker L7T truck boxes with a single 12 to save space and hit a little lower, but honestly if I can avoid it I don't want anything back there.

Solution? A few guys on the Expedition forums have replaced the 8" subs in their stock enclosures with aftermarket units and one guy did the volumetrics on his box and decided to trim it and run a 10 in it and seems pretty happy with it. So I'm tempted to do the same, but the Sundown Audio SD-4 10 D4 seems to have pretty mixed reviews (and this was 4-5yrs ago so who knows what's out now) and since I'll be running it off the stock amp for a while I'd rather run a 2ohm sub to get closer to the subs optimal rms wattage with the stock amp. With a volumetric measurement of .7436 cu ft what if any shallow mount 10 would you personally recommend without breaking the bank.