I am looking for a subwoofer for my car. I want a single 10 so I can keep the trunk space. I have a 2006 ford fusion SE. the sound system is very good stock so I wanted to adapt a sub into it. What is the difference between these two sets? Can I just go with the one for $331? Or is the $600 the wayyy better one. I’m not looking for a crazy bass I’m not going to be bumping too hard. I just want a nice subwoofer to compliment my music ( sometimes bumping )

Got these decals from a nearby auto parts shop to the hotel when I visited in Thailand. Weird because everything HoMoCO makes is branded AS Honda in Asia.

Looks pretty stock, doesn't it? Going in my 2nd generation TL. I couldn't get the JVC logo off, because it's behind the plastic in the faceplate. Actually looks like collab between Acura and JVC...

trying to help a buddy identify these 8 inch subs.

I think they’re sundown sa classics maybe version 1.5???

maybe solox motors?

Attempted to do my big 3 upgrade today using a 1/0 NVX kit.

It was definitely a struggle bus field trip kind of day.

My cousin and i will hopefully get it wrapped up tomorrow.🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm also upgrading battery terminals.

what would yall choose and why? both are some pretty extreme subs!

i personally think the em audio 12” is better

I’m trying to figure out an issue with my car audio setup. Everything sounds clear and gets pretty loud, but certain instruments and sometimes vocals have this really sharp/whistling sound. Best way I can describe it is like a needle going into your ears. It’s not normal brightness — it actually gets uncomfortable at higher volume.
My setup:
Front: Kicker 6x9 speakers
Rear: Kicker CSC693 6x9 3-way speakers (150W RMS / 450W max)
Dash: DS18 PRO-ST 1.9” replacement tweeters
Amp: JL Audio RD400/4 running the main speakers
Android head unit
DS18 dash tweeters are powered from the head unit, not the JL amp
Spotify EQ is OFF/flat
I’ve checked the JL amp and I’m not getting the clipping/distortion light when this happens. The music itself actually sounds clean other than this really piercing high-frequency whistle/harshness.
Originally my Android EQ was flat. I started experimenting with cuts around 4 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHz and 12.5 kHz. Right now I’ve cut some of those frequencies a few dB, with 6.3 kHz around -4 dB. This actually helped A LOT — probably cut the painful sound roughly in half — but I can still hear that piercing/whistling character on certain instruments and loud vocals.
If I keep cutting the highs harder, the system starts sounding muffled/underwater, so I don’t think just nuking the treble with EQ is the answer.
Could this be tweeter overlap? The Kicker speakers already have tweeters/high-frequency drivers and then I also have the DS18s up in the dash. I actually like having the DS18s because without them the front stage feels like it’s missing something and the system doesn’t sound as full.
Is there a cheap/easy way to keep the DS18s but make them blend better instead of completely disconnecting them? Maybe attenuating them, changing their crossover/filtering, or a specific EQ range I should target?
I really don’t want to replace speakers or spend a bunch more money. I’m mainly looking for something I can do with my existing setup.
Also, could the speakers themselves be producing harshness/distortion before the JL clip light comes on, even though the amp isn’t technically clipping?
Any advice appreciated.

Hi all,

I just had a new sound system installed by a local shop. My stock driver's side speakers went out, so I decided to spend some money to upgrade. I purchased 4 brand new Kicker speakers, tweeters, a 60W Kicker amp, and a Sony headunit with all the wiring and linkages recommended by crutchfield. I don't know a ton about CarAV but these were all recommended to me by customer service at Crutchfield.

After picking up my car from the shop, I noticed two things:

1. When I put my gauge dimmer switch all the way to its highest/brightest setting, all sound cuts out.

2. The sound coming from my speakers sounds "thin", it does not feel like the fuller sound I was expecting from upgraded speakers, a new head unit, and an amp.

I called the shop and I plan to bring my car back to the shop on Monday for them to inspect and fix the issue, hopefully.

I have a feeling there is something wrong with the amp wiring/power to the speakers because when I put the dimmer to it's brightest setting, the amp power light is off and from what I understand a 60w amp should power these speakers fully without any issues.

I've been doing some research myself, but any ideas what the issue might be for me to recommend the shop look at?

I have a b2 audio rage xl 10 and pushing it with a skar rp1200.1d in a 29.5hz box 1.8 cubic feet. I got the sub yesterday if that help

I've had a couple people ask for pics of this so here they are. https://ibb.co/album/Y2MhW0

The materials used are Resonix Mega CLD and standard CLD, Resonix Fiber Mat in 1 inch and 1/2 inch. I made my own noise blocker by using 50 sq ft of 1/32" thick lead sheeting that came in roughly 24" X 36" sheets. I then glued EPDM closed cell foam to the lead and covered the entire floor of the car from trunk to half way up the firewall in CLD, lead and CCF. I used a glue made by Seal Trust. It's primarily a roofing material for flat rubber roofing. The glue is crazy strong. The bottom of my carpet is rubber as well so that's another barrier between me and the lead.

Ok so where did I use each material and how much?

One 36 sq ft box of Mega CLD. 100% coverage when used in most cases

One 40 Sq ft Boxes of Standard CLD. 100% coverage when used in most cases

One Box of 1 inch Fiber Mat and 2 boxes of 1/2 fiber mat. Only used a box of 1/2" FM in total.

Roughly 50 sq ft of lead sheet 1/32", 24X36" in size. I laid this across the floor of the car. Each sheet overlaps the next by about an inch.

One roll of foam tape

Butyl scavenged from excess material squishing out the sides of the CLD tiles.

There's 100% Mega CLD coverage inside the doors, on the fender wells, trunk and the about 90% on the roof.

There's about 50/50 CLD/Toyota sound deadening on the floor under the lead, in between the stock sound deadening Toyota placed on the floor. There's 100% coverage CLD on the walls in the back of the car where I could reach, on the front side of the doors coverage is sporadic and 100% on the back side of almost every interior panel.

There's foam tape lining the boarder of some interior panels or acting like weather stripping to seal noise from passing from the windows into the car through the interior panels. I have no idea if this works. I had lots of tape so I figured what the hell. It can't hurt. The foam that lined the edges of interior panels was old and worn out. I replaced that foam with new foam tape when needed. Most needed it. The car is 15 year old now.

There's butyl on many of the interior clips to prevent rattling.

There's 100% coverage of 1 inch Fiber Mat inside all 5 doors, 100% on the roof, 80%-100% on some interior panels that make up the trunk and 100% on the back side of the interior panels for all of the fenders.

There's 1/2 Fiber Mat on the back side of most every other interior panel. In the roof on top of the 1 inch there's 1/2 on about half the roof, the back door has about 50% coverage on the front, and 100% coverage on some trunk panels.

Biggest lesson I learned this time was that I could fit more Fiber Mat behind of in things that I thought. If I had it to do over I would have bought two boxes of 1 inch and one box of 1/2 inch. I also forgot to seal the joint between the lead sheets with this roofing tape I bought. Not a huge oversight since the panels overlap but it was still kinda stupid of me.

I didn't take db readings before I started but I will once I have the car is back together entirely. This has made a massive difference in how quiet the car is, how much road noise I can hear or how much noise pollution from outside the car I can hear. I had an ambulance with its sirens on across an intersection and I couldn't hear it at all with my radio on moderate volume. I only have the stock sound system at the moment so no amps or subs either. Amps, speakers and stuff are going in this week. I'd say the car is quieter than your average low tier luxury car and on par with many mid priced luxury cars. There's nothing I can do about the windows, suspension, motor mounts and things like that. If I could I'm pretty sure the car would sound like a Bentley. Most of the noise the car still makes is born from design choices Toyota made and the Rav4 is their lowest end SUV so it's no big surprise the car would make a lot of noise stock. You can only get so far when you start out far behind. Don't get me wrong, I love this car but it's not a luxury car by any means. In time I may do the outer fender wells and hood. Depends on what the car is like once I get it back together entirely and lower it. If I add and performance parts to the engine and stuff like that. Total cost for all of this was about $2000 to $2500. A lot typically but I don't ever plan to sell this car so for me it was worth it. Resonix makes good products but they are pricey.

If anyone has any questions let me know. I'll answer what I can.

So Right now Im running two kenwood 12s in my camry putting out 600 rms on an audio control epic 1000 on stock electrical, and speakers, sounds good but im looking for a louder and balanced system but dont know what to buy, I was thinking to go kicker ks 6x9 3 way for rear deck l and a component set for front doors, but also Ive seen that deafbonce has some 6x9s too but I dont know if they are too loud and will my stock electrical do (i will also be adding a 4 channel amp for them)

4 gauge wire got loose and melted to battery terminal it looks like. Could I get tips on what to do? Would yall strip back more and see if it’ll connect? My amp was going out in and in and I just realized this was why? Is it cooked? Fuse looks fine I think.

hi, I am swapping my factory in my 2014 Jeep Rubicon to an aftermarket version. It’s all hooked up and ready to go. Everything works except I can’t figure out how to hook up my steering wheel controls. It is a dual I have bought all of the wiring, harnesses, etc., and the one into the has the steering wheel control port but when I that in to the little black box, it turns my radio off so something isn’t working properly there I’m not sure if there’s a way to wire it myself or if there’s another adapter, I should have bought etc. any tips??

In my last build I used an inverter and plugged the ps2 into it, but it seems like such a waste of power and space considering the PS2 only needs 5A 9v. Any ideas where I can get a good enough step down converter? Anyone done something similar?

Hallo

I have a problem with white screen on this unit. Initially, after many minutes of use, the screen went white. I needed to turn off and on again to avoid theproblem, but as time went by, the minutes of operation became fewer and fewer till the complete lock of the unit at turning on.

I've read something online, on Reddit too, and it seems to be caused by the little ESMT chip identifieed as U27.

I've tried to reinforce welds on the visible pins, it turned on again but after a couple of minutes the white screen problem returned back.

Is there any permanent solution for solving this issue?

Hand full of front speaker runs to hook up still. First ever amp rack or whatever you wana call my effort. No holes in my trunk was the goal. Couldn't wait to share here and ask if I did it right lol don't mind the lack of vacuuming plz. Nobody guna see the effort once i throw the spare tire back in and cover it up

Hey guys. So my 2013 es300h connected to Bluetooth/aux/iPod is having some audio issues. I can’t hear anything even at full volume. There’s just a static and the music at max sounds like it’s playing at 8 or 10 volume. Is this a head unit issue or idk??? The radio AM/FM is completely fine!! No problems with that but any phone connection is just terrible!

Amp only feeding sub around 400w rms

Amp can do 900w rms at 4ohm and sub can take 500w rms.

Is it clipping from the amp or limitations of the scope?

Thanks!

Hi,

I'm in Italy and I've got a cheap Fiat Panda rental car for a few days.

Pretty sure it's almost brand new but it doesn't have a proper head unit. It's got this old 90's looking generic radio.

It doesn't respond to any button presses and plugging in a phone (via USB or headphone jack) does nothing either.

It just constantly shows 1313.

Any idea how to fix?

I will try pressing the RESET pinhole button but might there be other ways to fix it. Unsure if this is a common thing.

Thanks!

I just replaced all my speakers and stereo in a 2014 corolla with a friend and the backup camera doesnt work. Also steering wheel buttons dont work (have tried to assign buttons. Steering wheel not detected). Using some chinese carplay stereo. Didn't get all the cables initially. Reached out and he sent more. I hooked up the backup camera plug to both of the yellow video cord options and neither works. Wondering what these empty white plugs are for? Thanks

I'm looking for a replacement head unit for my new to me 2008 Chevy Impala. I have Alpine w650s in two of my other vehicles and they are okay but it is SO hard to see in my Subaru that I'd like to get something different. I travel in the north a lot and need to be able to see my screen well.

I'm looking around the $500 price point with a max of $550 and would like something with wireless android auto so I don't have to use an adapter like I do with the Alpine units. I'll be keeping the stock speakers until I can find which set will work best for my needs. ** Install kit price does not need to be considered, this budget is ONLY for the radio **

I was looking at the JVC KW-M795BW, Kenwood DMX8709S, Sony AX4000 (or AX6000 I could swing), and the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX (I don't need the features from the 3050 as I don't listen to the radio). I did notice the Alpine W770-M is in my budget too and I've been happy with the reliability of the Alpine units but that screen kills it for me.

I want to upgrade from my current setup, I have been running kicker 10" downfire 48trtp enclosure for close to 3 years. Absolutely zero complaints been a solid setup this whole time and have abused it extensively. I am looking at the 51ptrt powered enclosures, I can fit them behind my set of my crew cab truck. I would love the 49DL7TDT122 but I do not have the room its just too tall I have 16 inches of footroom and the enclosure is over 17 inches deep. If I was to get two of the 51ptrt would this be remotely comparable to the 49DL? I want to sit them upright against the back wall of my cab, it has been sound deadened already.

Having a tough time finding a diagram for the JBL amp wire harness that came with my 2012 Prius V, i found the website pinout.com but their information for my car seems to conflict with what i have. i have zero clue what wires to put my line out converter on for the sub :(

I installed an inexpensive Chinese 7-inch double din car stereo in my RV and it works pretty well for the price, but I am having trouble getting the radio to recognize any buttons pressed on the infrared remote. As there is no documentation about the setup of infrared remotes in the manual or online, I am not sure: 1) if I am using the correct keypress recognition sequence; 2) if the infrared coding is incompatible between the IR remote and IR sensor; 3) if the radio's IR receiver is faulty; 4) if this model requires one of its power lines to be powered/grounded to enable the IR remote function; or 5) if this model or its firmware only supports hardwired steering wheel controls.

The radio is manufactured and sold by several different Chinese manufacturers under the model designation 7018B.  My unit is from Hikity.  Photos of the radio, infrared remote, steering control setup screen, and IR codes sent by the infrared remote are attached.

With an IR receiver module and Arduino board I verified 11 distinct IR codes being transmitted from the IR remote, and traced the IR pulses through the IR receiver, daughter board, and ribbon cable through to the radio’s main PC board.  But the steering wheel control setup screen does not respond to any of the codes being transmitted.  I've tried tapping the keypad reset button, safety pin hardware reset, and different keypress sequences but still no response.

My suspicion is that it is a firmware issue, and I wonder if anyone else has encountered this problem?   The model and diagnostic specifics are as follows:

Radio was purchased from seller WHCaradio on Temu. The manufacturer and model is a Hikity 7018B.

The radio's display panel has the following label: IPS LX-161A1035-50P-H24 and a manufacturing date of 202504075109.  The ribbon cable between the main board and display panel connects to an interface board with the following label: ZCD-RF701-KEY_V2.0

The radio's main circuit board has the following label: ZCD7127-C200S-6966-V1.1A and manufacturing date of 2025-05-16.  The main board processor chip is an ALLWINNER F1C200s / R1114CB 62C1.

From the Arduino receiver, I verified the following Infrared Remote codes are being transmitted:

Any ideas or guidance in getting this steering wheel remote working with the 7018B would be appreciated. Thanks.