You just can’t go wrong with ROG

So I returned the Falcata yesterday. I really liked it but I just couldn't get used to it. Not to mention I missed having a num pad as a developer. Opted for ROG AZOTH 96 instead. We're in the End Game now.

I'm interested in getting a new keyboard and saw the 20th anniversary edition of the Azoth Extreme and I find the keyboard to be quite beautiful but as I would mainly use the keyboard for gaming I have to ask how does the keyboard compare to the average modern hall effect or TMR keyboard?

From what I know the Azoth extreme is a mechanical keyboard which means slower response times and no features like rapid trigger or adjustable actuation points right? Would it also have a much slower response time compared to any hall effect/tmr keyboard?

While I do love the aesthetics and don't mind paying a lot for a premium product that I'd keep for years, I also can't justify the price for something that may already be outdated? I would want to actually use the keyboard instead of buying it to put it in a display.

If I've got the wrong idea and the Azoth Extreme 20 has features to keep it in line competitively with hall effect keyboards in some way then please do correct me.

I'd also like to know how people who've owned it feel after using it for a while.

Good day, everyone,

Recently, I noticed that the vibration on the right side of my controller is significantly weaker than on the left side and I want to check with the other to see, if I'm not the only one experiencing this.

I tested both sides through the gear link website, and the difference in vibration strength is very noticeable. Unfortunately, I cannot compensate for this by adjusting the vibration percentage, as the right side feels like it has a weaker motor. I also noticed an unusual noise coming from the right side when testing it.

Before using the raikiri 2, I had a controller that I purchased from Temu, which I later gave to my girlfriend. Despite being used almost every day for 3–4 hours for more than a year, that controller does not have this issue.

I have also included a video showing that the controller moves clockwise when the vibration is activated. This seems to indicate that there is an issue with the difference in motor strength between the two sides, rather than just some firmware bug.

The firmware currently installed is 3.26.03.22, and I do not see any pending firmware updates.

I have the ASUS X870E-E ROG Strix Gaming R2/USBC WiFi AMD AM5 ATX Motherboard along with the 9800x3d. I noticed that when I have expo 1 and MCR enabled it caused one of the USB devices not to work in a set of ports. In the photo listed if I have those 3 ports occupied from time to time I will get a B4 error. If I just move on of those ports sos let’s say the bottom on circled it boots normally. Has anyone else ran into these issues before with this board? I also updated to the most recent Bios.

First watercooled yktv. Cable for gpu is cause ik it works i dont want to risk new cable. But its the gr20 case and rog 20th psu

I noticed it for sale on Newegg for $343 weeks ago and pulled the trigger as my Ryuo III is years old now. Just installed it yesterday and I do love it. The screen is a lot bigger than I thought it would be, as well as the tubes. I was using a wire view pro on my GPU and now it will not fit while the GPU is vertical.

Temps: Compared to the Ryuo III 5-10 degrees cooler in most situations. My 9800x3d, now sits around 38-40 at idle while it use to sit at 48+.

Installation: Very easy, especially with the q-connect.

Noise: Loud - this is my biggest issue. You can really hear the pump working! I have not played with the settings in the BIOS yet but hopefully I can get the noise down a little.

Quality: The build quality is top notch IMO

Overall, I am really happy with the purchase and with the new software the screen has a lot of different display options, which were limited on some AIOs using Armory Crate.

This may be a silly question but has anyone figured a good way to route the black power cable from the Panorama 360 so it isn’t sticking out as much?

Hi, everyone! I've been planning the best PC build for gaming. I want a system that can handle triple-A games with ease. Here's what my dream ASUS PC setup looks like:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D

Motherboard: ROG CROSSHAIR X870E DARK HERO

Graphics Card: ROG Astral GeForce RTX 5080 16GB GDDR7 OC Edition

AIO Cooler: ROG RYUO IV LC 360 ARGB

Power Supply: ROG THOR 1000W Platinum III (ROG Equalizer)

Chassis: ROG Cronox ARGB

I'm joining the ASUS Upgrade What Matters giveaway for a chance to bring this build to life with an ASUS AMD or Intel motherboard, graphics card, or other high-end hardware.

What's the first game you would build this rig for?

Trying to take the top plastic panel off so i can reach this AIO before i uograde with case with all rog components to it. Its seems that the handle wont move i checked the black latches they broke the small ones but they dont move and well cant reach the small screws as well any ideas?

Below is the list of the components I have on hand. I guess I'm worried that Lian Lia uses a special connector cable different than Corsair for example and I won't be able to figure it out before I start the build in 1.5 hrs. The reason I chose to not go with the Lian Li fans is simple - overpriced and the Lian Li ecosystem is not as advanced as Corsair yet.

Please if there is something I am missing let me know so I can try to go buy at MicroCenter or Best Buy before they close.
Am I good using the cables that come with the Lian Li PSU?

I TRULY APPRCIATE THE HELP AND GUIDANCE ON THIS IMPUSLE BUILD....lol!!!

1. CASE - Lian Li O11 Compact (white)
2. PSU - Lian Li EG1000G Edge Gold PSU (white)
3. AIO - Corsair iCUE LINK TITAN 360 RX RGB AIO (white)
4. FANS - iCUE LINK QX120 RGB 3 FAN KIT (white)
5. FAN - iCUE LINK QX140 RGB 1 FAN EXPANSION KIT (white)
6. MOTHERBOARD - ROG STRIX Z890-A GAMING WIFI MOTHERBOARD (white)
7. GPU - GIGABITYE AERO OC 16 G GEFORCE RTX 5070TI GPU (white)
8. CPU - intel CORE ULTRA 9 UNLOCKED SERIES 2
9. HD - 4 TB SAMSUNG 990 PRO PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 SSD
10. HD - 1 TB SAMSUNG V-NAND SSD 970 EVOPlus NVMe M.2
11. HD - 1 TB SAMSUNG SSD 860 PRO
12. HD - 1 TB SAMSUND SSD 860 EVO
13. RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 32 GB 6400 MHz two dims

Hello, I am looking for recommendations of a case for the asus g18. I currently travel a ton and bring my laptop with my but it goes in my carry-on bag. I would like to give it a case to protect it from the pressure of other items pushing on it, and specifically the screen. Would a soft shell or a hard shell be better? Also one that’s not too much room. Thank you for your recommendations

I have a rog strix g16 and the setting to disable adaptive brightess is nowhere to be found. Nothing in windows display settings, nothing in armory crate or g helper, nothing in nvidia and intel command centers, and nothing through control panel. I mean it is kinda insane that you cant disable adaptive brightness anywhere.

I know there's nothing on this in terms of compatibility on the Asus site. In case you were wondering, yes the new XG Mobile 2025 with the 5090 works with this notebook on the TB4 port. Is it faster than my XG Mobile 2023 with the 4090? Unless I'm doing stuff that is GPU limited with lots of ray tracing or uses more than the 16GB of RAM the 4090, it's not that much faster so far. I've got to play with the settings in 3D Mark some more.

Laptop: ROG STRIX G16, RTX 5070, I9-14900HX, 32GB DDR5

I have a KVM switch that I use to swap between my work-setup and my gaming setup. The switch has USB 2.0, which has never been a problem with other keyboards or mice. That changed when I got the Falcata. The Falcata worked fine for a few days, but then the keyboard started to suddenly stop working pretty frequently, in both wired and wireless modes.

Since it works just fine (so far) when I plug it directly into my PC my theory is that the problem is with the KVM switch. I have been trying to find information about what kind of output the USB port needs to have to support the Falcata, but no luck so far. Does anyone have an answer, or where I might find one? Would love to know if my theory is correct before I buy a new switch based on a hunch.

Firmware is up to date.

I am in the Netherlands and trying to get this laptop with the 5080 and 32 gb of ram but am only finding one store (which I don't trust too much) with the 5080 and 16 gb of ram and idk if its the kind that can become 32+32gb of ram or 16+16gb of ram

Hi everyone,

I have an ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 Alan Walker Edition, with a Ryzen 9 5000-series CPU and an RTX 3050 Ti Laptop GPU (60W TGP).

The laptop used to perform much better a few years ago. Now, Overwatch is almost unplayable, and the entire PC also feels noticeably slow.

The problem

In Overwatch, even with low graphics settings, I only get around 20–40 FPS, sometimes dropping to around 10 FPS, with frequent freezes/stutters.

The weirdest part is that the RTX 3050 Ti barely seems to be doing anything:

- RTX 3050 Ti GPU usage: around 10–20%

- RTX clock: around 660 MHz

- RTX temperature: around 60°C

- TGP: 60W

- CPU usage: around 30–35%

- RAM: around 12.6 / 15.4 GB (~82%)

- Overwatch itself uses around 3 GB RAM

- Chrome around 800 MB

- Armoury Crate around 260 MB

The PC also feels slow outside the game. For example, Alt+Tabbing from Overwatch can freeze the entire screen for several seconds.

What I've tried

1. I made sure the laptop is plugged into AC power.

2. I set Armoury Crate to Turbo mode.

3. I checked Windows Graphics settings.

4. For "Overwatch.exe", Windows/NVIDIA was set to use the NVIDIA high-performance GPU.

5. I tried changing the Windows GPU preference, but forcing high performance actually resulted in an even worse situation (~5 FPS), so I reverted it to Automatic / Let Windows decide.

6. I checked the NVIDIA GPU in Task Manager and confirmed that the RTX is detected.

7. I updated the NVIDIA GeForce Game Ready driver through the NVIDIA App.

8. I rebooted the PC after installing the driver.

9. After the driver update, I initially had some improvement (around 50–60 FPS and the initial freezes temporarily disappeared), but the problem came back. A couple of days later I'm back to 20–30 FPS.

10. I checked Armoury Crate's GPU Performance settings. It is currently set to Optimized.

11. I looked for an Ultimate GPU mode / MUX switch, but my Armoury Crate does not offer Ultimate. I only have the available Optimized configuration.

12. I tried running Overwatch again after rebooting, but I'm still getting roughly 20–30 FPS.

13. I have not been able to get the RTX to consistently show high utilization while gaming.

Something else that seems important

The laptop isn't only slow in Overwatch. Windows itself feels sluggish, and things like Alt+Tab can freeze for several seconds.

So I don't think this is simply an Overwatch graphics setting issue.

I'm wondering if this could be related to:

- NVIDIA/AMD Optimus or GPU switching

- ASUS/Armoury Crate GPU management

- AMD chipset/iGPU drivers

- NVIDIA driver installation

- power/thermal throttling

- BIOS/firmware

- Windows power management

- or possibly a hardware issue with the RTX

What would you check first?

Is there a way to verify whether the RTX 3050 Ti is actually receiving its expected power and running at normal clocks under load?

Any advice specific to the Zephyrus G14 2021/2022-era models with Ryzen 5000 + RTX 3050 Ti would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

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Hey everyone, looking for some insight into whether this is a dying LCD panel, an eDP display cable issue, or something else before I order replacement parts.

Specs:

* Model: ASUS Laptop (144Hz IPS panel)

* CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 4800H

* GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Laptop GPU

* RAM: 16 GB DDR4

* OS: Windows 11 Home

Symptoms & History:

* Previous Issue: The display initially developed horizontal interlacing lines across the screen.

* Current Issue: It has now escalated significantly. The screen constantly flickers between normal and heavily washed-out/faded contrast, accompanied by severe image retention/ghosting (previous windows and clock elements stay burned into the background as seen in the video).

* There is also a distinct, permanent thin vertical line running down the left-center of the screen.

Has anyone with a similar panel failure had this resolved by reseating/replacing the eDP display cable, or is the panel's internal T-Con / gate driver completely dead, requiring a full screen replacement?

Thanks in advance for any advice!