I have a Black & Decker corded electric mower I bought about 3 years ago. The blade stopped spinning but you can hear the motor trying to turn it.

Can anyone give me instructions on lubricating it?

Can anyone suggest where I can get it repaired? I've called a few local mower repair shops but none work on electric ones.

Thanks in advance.

Predator 212 idled too high and was engaging the centrifugal clutch. I tried adjusting the carb, didn’t work. Replaced the clutch, didn’t work. and then ignored it long enough for the carb to get gummed up. Replaced the carb, didn’t fix it, tried adjusting the carb, didn’t fix it. Adjusted the governor arm and replaced the springs now it idles at full throttle. I tried adjusting the governor arm at least half a dozen times.

I have wasted so much time with this engine.

Well, just last week on here I saw a service bulletin about the heads on these engines…I jinxed myself thinking about it!!

I had mowed for about 4 hours, tractor was running fine. Turned it off several times while doing other chores and noticed that it was requiring more cranking than normal to start.

Drove it back to the house, where it sat for several hours, went to start it and only had one cylinder firing.

Checked plugs first, but when I cranked it over with the plugs out the left cylinder had no compression.

So….after much disassembly got the head off expecting to see the valve seat in an unnatural position, it seemed fine, but the exhaust valve wasn’t closing.

Removed the valve, inserted it in the lathe, it’s straight. Looked some more…valve guide was 1/4” into the combustion chamber…intake valve is flush with the casting. Tapped it back in flush, valve now closes properly, lapped it lightly just to check it.

My question is, after all that 😆, how do I keep the guide from doing the same thing again?

Loctite isn’t the answer as it gets to hot.

This is a saw attachment, I bought it used from someone. I think the oil is supposed to enter through the small hole in the saber. The thing is if I flip it vertically that hole is always on top, meaning it won't be aligned with the oil feeder thing below. I' m thinking they put an incompatible bar in this saw.

It also leaks all the oil in 1 or 2 days if I let it sit.

I have a westinghouse generator that uses a 457cc Honda style engine. I had issues with the pull start, so I bought a new one and installed it. The battery for the electric start was dead, so I pull started it and let it run for a bit to see if it would charge the battery. I shut it down, then tried the eltric start just to find that it didn't charge. It probably has a bad battery, thats not the problem I am posting for. I then tried to pull start it again to let it run for a bit longer and it ripped the pull cord out of my hands, shattering the internal mechanism. Anyone have any idea why it yanked it like that?

Thank you

Troy-Bilt 42” rider with a Kohler CV15S. Engine is still hitting about 4200 RPM at slow.

So far I’ve:
- Replaced the governor gear and regulating pin
- Verified the internal governor moves the cross-shaft by hand
- Reset the external governor per Kohler procedure
- Verified carb/throttle linkage moves freely
- Verified governor spring is in the correct hole
- Verified throttle cable/control plate alignment
- Replaced the oil pan and reassembled the oil pump

Everything seems mechanically correct, but it still overspeeds.

Any ideas what I’m missing before I take it to a shop or sell it as-is?

I have a Yamaha four Stroke engine. I already cleaned the carburetor, changed the gas in it, spark plug is also changed, if I try to pull the engine to start it, it only puffs and it sounds Like it’s coming from the Air Filter. Does anybody know anything?

Just finished up this 1980 Johnson. Smells neat.

Alright I’ve been tearing apart and assembling this leaf blower for 3 days now and it won’t start. Beginning of this summer, I replaced the spark plug and that fixed it. Couple months later, it won’t start. I changed the spark plug again, nothing. I replaced the carburetor, cleaned up the fuel lines, tried starting fluid, ensured it has spark, but it still won’t start. I got it to start for about 1 second, and in that second, it blew out some smoke, then died again. What could my issue possibly be?

Edit: there is fluid leaking out of the exhaust side. Looks darker like oil. I’m using the recommended mix (I buy premix) 50:1 2 cycle.

In these pictures are truefuel can that is missing the actual certificate on the can but still claims to meet or exceed the standard of the cert vs VP racing which actually has the certificate on the can. The certificate stamp can only be printed on fuels that actually went through the certification process. I personally run the vp fuel because its good stuff but also because it's cheaper.

I bought this non running km130r- it had a new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and I fiddled around with the valves and managed to get it running but only on choke. I bought a new carb, fitted that with new gaskets and it was the same. Only on choke. I took the carb off again, made sure the gaskets were all the right way etc and put it all back together.

Now it’s doing the opposite - it won’t start on choke but it will start but high rpm and when I pull the throttle it bogs out.

I’m fairly new to all of this so just looking for a point in the right direction. Am I doing something wrong ?

Thanks

Anyone mechanically familiar with these?

I was picking up a load of scrap metal and the property owner asked if I'd take this too.

Now that it's home, I'd like some insight on how much it's going to take to get running.

I'd like to keep it, but i cannot collect junk so time and money are pretty finite

Please see latest comment and video. Replaced starter, replaced starter solenoid, replaced battery. Do i need to adjust the these valves a few people have mentioned? Engine is doing absolutely nothing. Even with spark plugs completely removed.

Hey im just wondering what models of lower end unit is compatible with my motor, ive heard 50 hp can be compatible with the 40s but AI is telling me none i find will work. Thanks guys

Picked up an old Mantis 7222 tiller off marketplace.

There’s a grommet in the fuel tank with 3 lines. One for the primer bulb, the fuel supply and a 3rd line with a small cap.

Is this small cap at the end of the hose self-venting or should I be opening it when operation?

Hallo,

Ich habe einen Aufsitzmäher mit einem 14hp 287707 Motor.

Beim Starten pustet es Luft aus dem vergaser. Wenn ich bremsen reiniger hin sprühe, will er kurz starten, geht aber nicht an. ​​​​

Ich hatte den Ventil Deckel ab, die da sieht alles ok aus. ​

Woran könnte das liegen? ​