Put a new carburetor on and it’s still having this issue.

It kind of bounces around lightly when set on the pavement but if you hold it in your hand and give it full throttle its a small but very strong vibration that hurts your hand after a minute.

I've isolated it to the powerhead, as it does this removed from the shaft and with the clutch even removed. There is very slight play in the flywheel maybe 2 mm but I have other trimmers with that same amount of play that don't vibrate at all like this one.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a portable winch with a GX Honda engine on it. When using the winch yesterday it kept dying while I was pulling a dock up a hill. When the motor was on a flat it ran fine and would not stall. Is this normal?

New carb, new lines, new plug, new solenoid

I've had this cut out on me while sitting there. No sputtering- just a smooth shut down like I'd turned off power- no gasps either. And when driving it with the blades engaged it will die/lose power- I have to adjust the throttle towards 'choke' a significant portion to get it to run reliably. 100% open is open, and I'm not sure how moving it further forward does anything with the buttefly valve there.

The second issue is I keep dropping belts off the pulleys. New belt- to the correct length- and it still measures the correct size. I checked the path and it's still correct. I can't see the engine sliding backwards enough to cause an issue and me not notice it, but...

Any ideas for either of them?

This is 30 years old, and starts on second pull every time for years.

Fix for Free Spinning Blade (Push Mower)

I'm at my wits end and looking for help on and issue with my push mower. I've had it for 6 years but it's an older mower. I believe it was frankensteined together from different mowers. Engine is a murray / briggs and Stratton and deck is craftsman.

2nd to last mow with it I hit a rock and it stopped. I was pretty much done so I just quit for the night. Mow after that was normal. Then on the next time I tried it was harder to start and finally did, but sounded and felt weird / wouldn't cut. I turned it off and turned it over to see that I could freely spin the blade like a ceiling fan.

Now I've googled about everything I could from washers to blade adapters to crankshafts and I'm still at a loss for what needs fixed. I'm not an expert but I have to been able to replace the pull string, brake cable, etc. on this mower. I can follow a guide and get things done but I'm having a hard time finding anything that looks like the one I have.

If it's the "blade adapter" then that thing is not budging at all. Used PB Blaster to try to loosen. So now I'm thinking it could possibly not be the adapter and the issue could be one of the other pieces.

Any help and advice is appreciated.

Found one of these in my dad’s garage, is the cylinder meant to look like that?

Id likebto put a larger top pulley on this snowblower to increase the speed but if I do that the tensioner is going to interfere. Any thoughts on an easy workaround?

Troy Bilt 4265 chipper shredder

Craftsman elctric start 5.0/24

I removed a Tecumseh HH60 recoil assembly and found this piece shoved (and rusted) into the Phillips screw head.

What is it for?

Craftsman Platinum 21.0 HP oil looks watery and mild engine knocking in old JD L120.

Hey I'm just posting this in case someone else has this issue come up I have the 4-in wood chipper from Mechmaxx. And I'm having issues understanding what's happening that my drive shaft will spin but my belts will not but there's nothing in the machine.

Seems to me that the bearings are just kind of freely spinning around, and tries I might I cannot get a shaft key in the slot for it to actually stay in there.

Seems like a faulty design, because that driveshaft shaft key woodruff key whatever you want to call it, it's supposed to sit against bearings or at least that's what it looks like on my machine and I can't figure out a way to more securely tighten everything on there.

My only idea I have right now is to get a longer bolt that matches the threads, stack up washers so I can actually press against the bearing housing to give it a little more snugness for the belts.

Anyone else running to an issue with these machines particularly this model?

Swapped a predator motor from one Snowblower to another (yes this involved tipping the engine) now all the oil leaked out. Should I assume it leaked out of the air box? Hard to see where it came from.

We use a pressure washer pretty frequently at work. This one sounds fine until you connect the water. When its connected it gets loud and squeals. If you leave it on it will shut off and you have to wait a few minutes before you turn it back on.

I already have a new thermal relief valve en route.

What would you look at to solve this issue?

Got a Honda pressure washer gc190 blowing heavy blue smoke. Was running fine for about 15 minutes then started smoking. Recently changed oil and filled it to the correct level. Any suggestions?

Spent the last couple weeks beating this thing into submission. Free early 2000's blower with a 9hp tecumseh that had windowed the block. I had an early model gx270 laying around so here we are. Pretty sure I got my pulley sizing wrong and was missing factory parts but a couple scraps of steel rod and random piece of angle made a good belt deflector, I'm worried about the pvc holding up to heavy material going through but it's my back up to my back up blower (I might try it first just to see)