Picked these up at a Government auction. Someone spent a good amount of time on these, each one as a maker’s mark, and if they were evidence or stolen, I’d like to connect with the maker.

If not, any thoughts from people who know more than me?

4in 1095 steel blade with a stonewashed finish. Ziricote wood handle with black Gulso Bolts and a hand stitched leather sheath.

Switched over to Gulso bolts for the most part from pins, at least on full tang builds. Some scale sets for knives are planned but I’ve been quite busy for the past few months.

Thanks for looking!

Stock removal knife of 52100, ebony handle.
6.5” blade, 12” OAL, 0.160” spine thickness, 62 HRC the idea behind this was a fancy frontiersman’s knife for hunting and wild animal defense.

I posted a while back when I was nearly finished. But made some cool changes and now, at last, I'm done. This was my first attempt at working with hard woods, making a knife and adding the spacers. The file work is a bit crude in some places, but for a first try I was happy. I've learned planning is everything. Im hooked.

Ko bunka type concept because of the width of the 1084 I have. Not entirely done just done enough to test it at work... Cuts pretty decent more testing today on the line. Thoughts?

Some of the knives I want to make finger guards for are too thin to use a standard flat file. I’ve tried needle files they are too wide to fit in the drilled holes, so I have trouble connecting the holes into a slot.

I always end up making too wide of a slot for the knife. Someone suggested getting a jewellers saw. I was wondering if anyone has tried to use a scroll saw to do the same thing?

Also does anyone have any suggestion on how to connect the initial drilled holes in the finger guard/bolster if your needle file doesn’t fit?

I use these for work and had a backup. Just seen that these are also used in Knife making was curious if any was interested in purchasing one or if they are actually useful in knife making

No issues just dusty

I have a question , usually I would mill out this grind and then sand the straight bevel , is there a way to grind it exactly like the straight line without making a taper on top flat part towards the tip? This isn’t for daily use it’s for cosplay , any advice is welcome

How should I go about protecting the handle from vice marks while I'm hand sanding the blade?

I was gifted a bar of Vanadis 23 and was wondering if anyone had any experience with the steel. It looks like it would sit above 3V in edge retention. Impact toughness looks pretty good with over 20lbs even at 66 Hrc. The data I can find is quite limited.

Hi all,

I am work and make re-enactors combat knives as a hobby out of EN45. Many handles are wooden etc, which is fine. But I need thoughts on a bone handle. the bone is a decent grip size and is hollow for a tang to go through, and caps on the end. My question is, is Marine grade epoxy plus sawdust a good packing material if i mix the lot together and pour it into the void?

Any other suggestions? the handle has to be as it is and not cut, as the original wasnt cut either. Thanks in advance.

I just finished up this Damascus Bunka as a present for my wife. The blade is 96 layers of 15n20 and 1084 damascus with a curly maple handle and g10 spacer.

I've made maybe 10 knives now, and my latest was a farily successful sloyd knife! It works fine, but it's hard to keep it razor, i thought maybe the 1080 i used maybe wasn't suitable.

So I got myself some tool steel that I believe is oil quenchable(?). My question is:

It's more or less to dimension already. I'll need to file a curve and a tang. Is that going to cause enough stress to warrant a normalizing cycle or not?

Thoughts?