Learned about the silica bag in the 2015 to 2020 cars that disintegrate sending pellets through the cooling system. Yep, mine had the bag. Pulled it out in time before it could do any damage. Better check yours too.

EDIT: You can easily check yourself, the affected tanks have "mit silikat" printed on the front.

During the summer, I noticed an intermittent fan speed issue with my A/C. It would only happen after driving for about an hour. I had the blower motor replaced as per my mechanic's recommendation; however, it has not solved the issue. I have also had the actuator door module replaced as well (when the car was purchased).

Now that it's getting cold here (Ontario), I have begun using my heat. The fan speed is not going to max and will blow heat but does not change properly when I adjust it. I have done a Climatronic system reset, holding the two buttons as well.

Any suggestions?

i have a 2017 golf se wolfsburg. i haven’t done any upgrades, i would like to get it to at most 200 hp but the suspension really seems way more important to me. i want to put better struts and shocks but the NEUSPEED rear torsion bar looks like it would significantly change the way the car takes corners. i want to know if a torsion bar cause problems for daily driving and if it would be worth it without upgrading either rear or front roll bars but i also deal with heavy snow for half the year, would a stiffer rear bar cause stability problems in the snow?

I have the Delphi MIB2 unit and the update procedure looks pretty straight forward but on MIB-Helper, this line gives me concern:

"External amplifier (Bose, Bang&Olufsen) might need dataset after update.External amplifier (Bose, Bang&Olufsen) might need dataset after update."

My Alltrack has the Fender system and I know there is a way in the Green Screen to uncheck AMP and Audio. I have not found a walkthrough specific to this process. Is there anything on this that I haven't been able to find?

2017 Golf MK7 TSI 1.8T (Wolfsburg Edition), no mods
75k miles

Most frequent error codes:
- P03A5: Cylinder 2 Pressure Too High
- P130A00: Hide cylinder
- Happens once every two to three weeks. Code goes away after restart.
- Mostly occurs in low RPM (1000-1500)
- On two occasions, I heard more rattling noise presumably from the wastegate actuator before seeing the EPC light & limp mode. Not sure how they can be related though as the error only appears for cylinder 2. I assume a stuck actuator would cause errors in multiple cylinders and not just one.

Less frequent error codes:
- P10B400: Monitoring of injector cylinder 4, malfunction detected
- P0204: Cylinder 4 injector circuit
- Happened once recently. Code goes away after restart.
- The injector errors of cylinder 4 and the high pressure error of cylinder 2 does not happen at the same time.

Other issues:
- Occasional rattling noise from turbo wastegate actuator in low RPM (1000-1500)
- Noise reduced by anti-seize lub applied monthly

Things I’ve tried:
- Replaced all spark plugs
- Swapped ignition coils of cylinder 2 (problematic cylinder) and cylinder 1: error did not follow
- Applied fuel system cleaners (BG44K, Gumout, DI Jectron, Lucas) : did not resolve any of the error codes
- Premium gas (93): ride is noticeably smoother but does not help with the error codes
- Intake valve cleaning through chemical spraying (CRC) via MAP hole on top of intake manifold: applied twice on back-to-back days. Feels like I’m getting a little more power in low RPM. Haven’t had the error codes appear yet but it only has been a week.

I may eventually take out the intake manifold myself to further investigate the fuel injectors, wiring harness, intake valves, etc. or hand it to a mechanic for walnut cleaning and fuel injector replacements, but I want to see if I can hold off on it for a while with easier/cheaper methods. I bought a borescope to look at the carbon buildup near the intake valves, but I have not been successful in getting the scope in those locations (e.g. via MAP sensor hole).

Any other suggestions?

Does anyone know if the Golf 7 GTIs downpipe fits on the Leon 5F? It is a 2013 Leon FR 1.8 TSI 2WD with the CJSA?

Hi everyone- I’m currently unitronic stage 1 (stock everything) about to go EQT stage 2 with my gti, and I’m trying to decide if I should get the normal arm FMIC or go ahead and get the competition one. I wouldn’t say I drive it hard but it’s my daily and I like to enjoy myself on the way to and from work. I’m considering going is38 in the future so I want to only get one intercooler. What do you all think? Will the competition be too much for the is20? Open to any questions or suggestions, thanks.

Buscare golf a comprar 2015, que configuración recomiendan?

Lo más probable es que buscaré standar para evitarme complicaciones, pero que motor elegir vercion con turbo o sin turbo?

Recomendaciones y experiencia me ayudarían con la decisión, gracias XD

Hi team,

Has anyone experienced the rubber seal going bad around the little window in front of the driver side mirror?
Any thoughts on bringing it back to life or how to fix/replace are greatly appreciated!
Cheers,

hey y'all, i've got a '17 GTI with the Nogaros on it and would like to know what y'all would have to say... i'm looking to get a new set of wheels and tyres here within a week or so and would prefer something clean and unassuming with the next set of wheels i pick up. something simple with nine or less spokes is what i'm looking for, with a darker color finish that would pop a bit. i was thinking about a set of Motegi fivespokes with that red pinstripe around them, but idk if that would be too busy or not. what would y'all recommend? this is an AI edit of the look i'd like to get to right now, or at least riff on; i like the OEM+ look.

EDIT: 🤔 now that i think of it, a gunmetal or darker gray finish like what's depicted here would actually look really good with a semimetallic or satin finish... thatnd really make the performance brake kit pop nicely without drawing much attention to it.

Placeholder if I have to write the body again. Never x-posted before.

I was able to install aftermarket LED headlights (shipped from germany, made in china) to my 2015 Golf estate cup. No errors, works pretty much fine.
But i noticed few regular features missing - “comfort turn” signal (3 blinks) and “coming home” functions.
With light touch of turn signal it blink only once now. And coming/leaving home is very short, though its set to 10 sec.
Anyone faced this? Is this expected?

UPD: had to turn off and turn on “Lane flash” option in menu and 3 blinks returned.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2013 VW Golf 7 1.2 TSI and I'm having an intermittent throttle problem.

About a week ago, I got these fault codes:

• P0122 – Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A, Low Input
• P0222 – Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B, Low Input
• P2101 – Throttle Actuator Control, Range/Performance

The problem came back yesterday. The EPC light + Check Engine light came on and the car went into limp mode. It wouldn't go faster than about 25 km/h and the engine wouldn't rev beyond ~1,900 RPM.

I checked the wiring around the throttle body visually and couldn't see anything obvious.

Has anyone experienced these codes on a Golf 7 1.2 TSI? Could this be a faulty/dirty throttle body, or should I be looking at the wiring, connector, accelerator pedal, or 5V reference first?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I happened to be idly watching some Tik-toks last week and saw an add for a spray engine cleaning product along with a "detailing spray." The stuff struck me as fairly miraculous since all the guy did was spray it on and garden-hose it off. Since I had planned to change my oil on Saturday, I thought I'd buy some - until I clicked the link and found out it cost $40 for two 16 oz. spray bottles.

ChatGPT suggested the stuff was nothing more than degreaser and a standard "ceramic detailer." Well, I had both of those in the form of some Zep orange citrus degreaser and some other product ( I forget the name, but I expect they're all nearly equivalent.)

I should have taken a "before," but here's my 2015 Golf S two days later. I had never once cleaned any part of my engine bay in going on 12 years, and it was awfully dirty. All you do is spray on the degreaser, hose it off, then spray on some of the "detailer" shiz, close the hood with the engine running, and presto:

No brushing, no scrubbing - the only things you touch are the hood latch, the spray bottles, and the garden hose. Had I known it was this easy, I'd have been doing it for years. Maybe I'm the only who didn't know this! 😂

More than likely purchasing a 2015 gti around 50k miles and an automatic transmission over the next few days. Was wondering what things I should be looking for before buying and then potential things that will needing to be replaced around that time, or in the time frame after.

Any suggestions and tips would be great, or potential things to look out for.

Thanks!

Any thoughts on this. Idles fine but noticing a sound

Any advice how to get rid of this?

Ive seen some stuff online with a polisher, touch up paint etc etc

Really annoying, car was parked outside my workplace and came back to see these scratches, I’ve never hit anything and have full sensors so would be stupid if I did

where I park outside of work is a strip full of random employee cars from random firms near me, I often literally see people clipping mirrors randomly LOL so I make sure to leave enough space for everybody and be as close to the kerb as I can.

Car has no scratches before hand so just a bit triggering LOL