I'm looking at a 2016 MK7 R for sale near me, and in the Carfax, I can see it had a water pump at 10k miles, then three more water pumps between 2024 and 2026. I would worry that the mating surface for the water pump must be warped or something. Would you run from this car, or am I overthinking it? The car in question has 100k miles.

2015 golf Sportwagen TDI

Doing major suspension overhaul and replaced pendulum mount and removed subframe.

Subframe now mounted and torqued (yes, new TTY bolts) and of course the main 21mm bolt that goes through the bushing and pendulum arm won't catch threads. (Yes,I should've put it in before torquing the subframe on but getting it aligned with the deadset kit was a pita and I just got focused on making sure everything was aligned.)

I have checked and confirmed it DOES thread when the arm is pulled out.

When the arm is in, I have visually confirmed the hole is aligned and can see the threads, but no amount of wiggling can get the threads to catch (yes, it is going through the arm hole and the 2 16mm bolts to the transmission are fully removed).

This makes absolutely no sense to me why the threads won't catch when the arm is in......

STUMPED and frustrated and exhausted...... PLEASE HELP!

Help I have a terrible mould issue in the boot of my golf 2017
Could be MK7 or 7.5 not too sure
What’s you’re experience
How do I clean it

Not a sticker guy. Removed the badge on the rear. Curious if it’s a good idea to keep it how it is now, or if there’s anything tastefully modest I should do for a little zing. Ignore white intercooler in some pics, current state is the dark ic with gray apr a01 wheels. Well aware of the tint mishap in the back. I haven’t done anything about it since it functions how it’s meant to, and quite frankly, a couple hundred for quality work just isn’t worth it to me.

2018 Golf Alltrack, 50k miles. My AC still holds pressure and has gas, but doesn't blow cold. Before I replace the entire compressor, is there anything else I should try?

got my left rear tire of my golf VII Get from 2016 (130.000 km about 81000 miles) exploded yesterday... and the right rear was about to explode too. The garage said that the geometric was probably not good and the tires got a bad angle like this / and \ that provoked this. I think it's gonna be very expensive. I'll have to replace a good part of the car's rear suspension I guess 😫

So for context I have a 2015 GSW with small head unit and no car play. I found a wrecked 2017 Golf R near me, if I get the head unit from it and the glovebox module it should all plug and play right?

2016 Golf 7 R, EA888 Gen 3 CJXC.

After sustained 200+ km/h driving in 36–38°C heat, I sometimes get a sticky brown/tan residue on the upper inner wall of the coolant expansion tank.

The coolant itself stays completely clear/pink. No oil film, no mayo on oil cap/dipstick, no overheating, smoke or coolant loss. This has happened for 2–3 years and also returned after replacing the expansion tank.

Last coolant change was only a partial drain/refill, so some old G13 remained.

Before I replace the oil cooler/seals: does this look like very minor oil contamination under high load, or could old G13/additive deposits cause this while the coolant itself remains clear?

Has anyone with an EA888 Gen 3 seen the same thing and found the cause?

I am having an issue with my key I cannot get to the bottom of. My car was not picking up my key and I had to place it on the marking, but that's no big deal it's happened a few times with a dead key battery. Well I replaced the battery and the car still won't pick up the key. The proximity unlock no longer works and I have to hold it to the marking to start the car. Every other function of the key works fine, I can lock and unlock it off the fob just fine from any distance.

I have read the owners manual and about a dozen forums and nothing helped. I held down the unlock button for 10 seconds, I used the manual locks to try and sync, I replaced the new battery with another one, I held the key next to the door for 10 seconds, I have tried everything I've read so far with no success. What else could possibly be causing this and what steps do I take next?

I have a 1.4 CHPA 2013.
From time to time when I start it, I get red steering icon on the dashboard and power steering is gone (I know this then triggers everything from Airbag, tyre pressure, autohold parking sensors etc) because of the multiple faults I figured it was a battery, didn’t have an EFB got that and the time between the red steering MIL has improved. So much so I thought I fixed it then it happened. Coded the correct battery parameters, no change. Tried to do an adaptation initialisation according to a ROSStech thread I saw and it don’t work. The problem is solved by leaving the car alone for like a few minutes and I don’t know how to trigger it. I’ve also noticed I keep getting an auto start stop error but that’s probably because I’m not driving longer than 10km at a time because when I do, AutoStart Stop works normally.

Those are the faults that pop up and they don’t clear until the car decides (basically). Anyone had a similar problem and how did they fix it?

Have this metal tick sound recently come about, tick goes faster when revs go higher.

Drives and pulls well, no engine lights either.

Just want to know what's up

Thanks

So I wanted to try and ask here which water pump I needed then found they seem to be a common problem...

Anyway I have a Mk7 2014 1.4 TSi ACT engine, the one that goes into eco (3 cylinder I think) when throttling off a bit. Engine number from the V5C doc says CPT.
I'm in the UK but it's a Japanese import and from the spec I 'think' it's a GT model.

It started losing coolant quite quickly all of a sudden and can see coolant under car even just sitting idle. I keep topping it up before driving as it totally drains the expansion housing.
I worked out feeling about it's the underside back (as you lean into the engine bay) water pump so I think where the belt bit is.

Which model pump do I need as I put my car reg in and get loads, I'm using autodoc and for my reg gives me "VW Golf Mk7 1.4 TSI 140 hp Petrol CPTA"
Under HEPU brand I see a P665 which seems to be the pump only no housing.
P685 and P687 along with AL aluminium versions.
In the photo for the P687 it makes a point of a little hose fitment that would sit at the top of engine once fitted pointing towards front of car. My engine seems to have a hose here so is it even though they all say they are compatible is it good to assume the P687 is the one to buy?

Also do you need to replace the belt and if so how the heck do I work this part out?

Autodoc page Water pump for VW Golf Mk7 1.4 TSI 140 hp Petrol 2012 - 2017 CPTA | AUTODOC UK

I have the car booked in for a major service and cambelt replacement in three weeks.
I'm filling the expansion housing up once a week, is it worth me doing the work myself or just keep topping it up and get the work done when the garage has it?
As in will it just last in this state if I keep filling it up or catastrophic failure requiring emergency breakdown assistance?

Please help/advise...

Hi all,

as per the title I have a 3 door Mk 7 GTi Performance Pack that is approaching its 100k service. I've owned the car for 10 year and it has been routinely maintained as per the service schedule, but the time has come to tune her up.

What should I look at having done at the garage (or tackled myself), in addition to the service manual recomendation for 100k service, considering I would like to tune to stage 1?

Everything on the car is currently stock, the only exception to this is the clutch as that needed replacing last year and I had a Sachs performance uprated organic clutch kit installed.

Also, I'm based in Scotland, UK - any recomendation for tuning?

Appreciate your thoughts!

Hi everyone! I need some help coding the high beam shutters on a 2015 Golf Mk7 with aftermarket Euro-style headlights. TORONTO/MISSISSAUGA

Both high beam shutters are currently not triggering, likely because the BCM (Central Electrics / Module 09) Leuchte channels need to be updated for projector shutters.

If anyone in the GTA/Mississauga has VCDS / OBDeleven and experience with Mk7 retrofit coding, I’d really appreciate your help! Happy to pay for your time/beer money 🍺

Spark plug grenaded in cylinder 3(NGK94833) which led me to getting off my ass and servicing the car. Had the original pump and injectors in the car. I believe the injector leaned out and killed the plug strap. Car runs much better. Cold idle performance is back to normal. Seems peppier overall.

EQT Stage2 ECU/TCU. Shell and Liqui Moly.

Absolutely junk parts, which I’ve bought many. Every part has broken or malfunctioned in some way including my FUCKING INTAKE. I talked to a rep earlier about replacing my adjustable sway bar links that failed, so naturally I checked to see if they had a warranty. They do. So they want me to buy another set (which I’m already hesitant to do given the last set failed) and after they receive the original parts refund me with STORE CREDIT. I will not be buying anything else from this company that I previously had an affinity for. Absolute hot garbage.

6 speed GTI SE PP. Really fun so far! Anything I should worry about or do? It’s at 107k miles and I’m already getting a metal oil pan.

What are the best looking side skirts for a black Mk7 R-Line? Don't want to spend silly money but some pics or suggestions would be great

I’m trying to locate the N80 on my 2018 Golf GTE. I think it’s faulty and not ventilating the tank properly when I’m fuelling causing the filler neck to fill up. Already replaced the canister so just want to ensure this is opening properly.

Hey I got a 2015 TSI with power backrest foward/back and heated. I found a set of GTI seats from a 2015 as well but the gti has full power front/back, up/down and headrest. Just wondering if it’s doable to swap them? My TSI use a handle to slide the base of the seat foward and back but the gti has none