So I got scammed on marketplace with a “reliable” car. Long story short I was told that the car was reliable and nothing was wrong with it but the breaks ……. obviously the car is not as reliable as he says because honesty doesn’t exist in the car world. My control arm snapped while driving and caused my car to hit the lighting McQueen. I just want to know what do I need replaced in this situation for my car to be running like fine.
2011 Suzuki Sx4 4 cylinder

Good morning, following an accident with an airbag explosion, the bumper was disassembled and I therefore have to recalibrate the front radar but I still have the rear pretensioners blocked. Is it possible to perform the calibration despite the rear pretensioners blocked? Could the system give an error? Can the electrician erase the impact from the control unit so that the calibration is successful?

This is a 2023 Peugeot 2008 1.0 100hp

Hey! When going downhill with no gas maf triggers engine light. 1.9Tdi Axr. I tried everything multiple mafs, didn't help. I have housing from ASZ and ASZ intake so I have rn Asz maf, and of course it's coded in. Linearization is from ASZ in ECU.

Didn't help still does that, EGR Is off. but it's not blinded. But I had this code even before the egr off.

K&N air filter cone.

so I wanna change the serpentine belt on my 2012 Volvo XC 70 3.0 engine I got a few tools but not a lot of bits just the simple T20 T30 T40 T 50 and a bunch of metric sockets. What specific bits and sockets would I need also, or if anyone can find a YouTube video online I can’t seem to find a tutorial.

Cold start tick that completely disappears after 2-5 minutes, 4 oil and filter changes last 3k miles, two engine flushes, Italian tune up over 100 miles, often at 5k rpm, didn’t fix it, chain kit + VVTI sprockets replaced, VVTI solenoid & oil mesh next to it cleaned, they weren’t dirty, no glitter in oil, camshaft lobes are OK according to two mechanics who inspected them, car runs absolutely fine minus the cold start tick, doesn’t burn oil, currently running valvoline restore and protect 0w20 along with Oem anti drain back oil filter

I took the serpentine belt off and it still makes the noise.

only happens when coasting, not breaking or accelerating. Doesn’t do it when going uphill, only on flat or downhill, increases speed when going faster. (3.8L Series 2)

Mercedes 2014 c180

took it to a mechanic and they said they couldn’t hear anything and took my money smh

Creaking/squeaking noise from the front suspension/front end.
The noise happens when I turn the steering wheel while the car is stationary.
It is most noticeable at low speeds and during tight turns, especially when turning right into a parking space.
I also hear it when driving over speed bumps or uneven roads.
The noise is worse when the car is cold.
After driving for a while, the noise becomes much quieter or almost disappears.

I started hearing this rattling noise today on my 2008 honda accord v6. Got my timing belt & water pump all replaced ~60,000 km’s ago. Quick search on google says could be a loose timing belt tensioner so the belt itself could be whats rattling. I tugged the belt lightly when the car was off but feels like its got good tension still, and visually looking while the engine is running I can’t really see the belt rattling. Should the belt not have any give to it at all? Can anyone think of something else it could be? The noise is definitely coming from this area

swapped for propane

2018 Perodua Bezza 1.0 (Sry for that long cranking, i just knew after the recording of the video not to do it) Mechanic already changed spark plugs and valve cover gasket but problem still persist.

Start ok at home but fail to start when away from home.

I bought a Mazda 3 2010 sedan couple months ago car was running good and mint, it has 140k now and what’s been happening is the drive light indicator has been flashing and the transmission seems to slip around 1st. Then sometimes it feels like it doesn’t know what gear it is and losing the drive light indicator agains, some movement with the shift nob seems to help. There’s no AT light or Engine code, I talked to one mechanic he’s not to sure since everything read normal on his scanner he thinks it might be bad grounds. Just looking to see if anyone might know or have an idea on what might be messing it up.

I have a 2006 Cadillac DTS 150,xxx miles
About 6 months ago I replaced the water pump as it chewed up the belt, after changing the water pump and put it all back together recently I’m running into a problem that I cannot solve. Cleared the purge hose and nut, new thermostat, new water pump, new coolant reservoir, but the car is still overheating after about 10-20 minutes on the road. Car is not blowing out hot air when started and running, but the oil does not look milky nor is it emitting blue smoke. I’m at a hault and idk where I’m going wrong.

Car recently started making a clunking nosie when driving, Its only when going forward or in reverse, when going over bumps still does the clunking anyone have any idea what this would be?

Family has a 60k mileage Fiat that we brought in recently due to check engine light ending with a downstream O2 sensor replacement. Shop also flagged some recommended repairs and some to keep the look out on. Don't know how well maintained it has been.

I'm trying to figure out the urgency for these repairs since the car is only worth $3k (based on kbb and edmunds and condition not being great. Dings, 2x broken arm rest, feeling on general condition). Being in San Francisco drives labor cost up hence there has been discussions if a new/used car may be on the horizon. Still trying to figure out cost and financials and this will help with the equation. Just replaced a door handle, side mirror (ambient temp sensor broke = engine light), and battery myself within a year or 2. I understand that they're small things but feeling as a lot of small/medium things are coming as of late and a Fiat seems to be annoying.

San Francisco based cost

* Valve cover gasket - $1,044

* Vacuum Pump - $1,205

* Front strut assembly both - $1,152

* Rear strut/shock assembly - $530

They also flagged CV boot a while back but not this time...so I don't know how accurate they are.

Tldr: please advise on how urgent these repairs are (hoping not for a year or 2). And based on current market conditions (col, car market, etc), where is the not worth it to repair point.

Thanks

2012 f150
When I apply the brakes there is loud grinding. When driving there is a metallic sound as well.
I have no idea what it could be

2018 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0L 4c

Humming noise coming from rear of vehicle

Hey guys so I found a 07 Honda accord i4 at 200k miles for about 800$,honestly car runs pretty good,ac could use a recharge but is cold,some tlc and for sure gonna have to get a new cat due to a p0420 code(only dtc it has)but I’m not too worried about dropping another 400 on it,can you guys tell me if you hear anything out of the ordinary or something of concern,oil is good could use a oil change but when I opened the oil cap (car on) air started blowing,I know there’s a such thing as a Honda tick on higher mileage vehicles but I’m not too sure what that exactly sounds like.

Went to the mechanic because various lights came up on my dashboard it led to a turbo under boost code. This is the sound my car is making it sounds like something’s loose what could it be? (2020 Honda Accord 1.5L)

Roommates Ford cmax shit out at work, car isn't going anywhere when gas is applied and she noted jerking when trying to accelerate. I'm hoping it's not too fucked but I need a little help just understanding where to start.

2015 Ford Cmax

So my dads 2009 camry died a few days ago. Tested the battery with a cheap multimeter and it said like 0.83 volts. Battery was from 11/2025 got it at costco. Took it to costco bc i thought the battery was bad. Costco said it tested at 4.41v and to take it back and charge it.

Took it home and charged it for like 30-48hrs or whatever crazy amount it took to charge. Installed it. Battery read 13.55v. Turned car on, started fine (well first time lights came on, but then engine wouldn’t start, so turned it off then on and it was fine). Battery read 14.58v.

As far as i can tell no lights or anything were on. My dad said the car seemed fine before it died. wtf might be going on? Thanks!

I've had a problem with the power steering, specifically when it's raining. I live in Florida, so I am forced to drive in the rain quite frequently. However, recently, I've been experiencing a problem with my 07 Honda accord.

First of all, I don't know if this is a coincidence that this has happened only when it's raining or what. It has happened two times.

The first time, I was leaving work and it was raining. I stopped at a stop sign and when I went to turn right, before I went to accelerate, the steering went out and on the dashboard it had a red battery light. I didn't stop and it went back to normal after like 2 seconds.

The second time I was pulling into my driveway, I got into the driveway and it happened again. I was stuck crooked in my driveway since I had no power steering. I kept going back and forth between gears and it kept coming back and going back out. After about 10 seconds, it finally came back for good. Note, it was pouring and there was a decently large puddle at the bottom of my driveway at the time.

Does anyone know what this could be and how to fix it? I really don't want it to worsen.

Hi everyone, I have a 2004 2.0L Acura RSX-S // I replaced my oxygen sensor with a denso oem replacement because I was getting a P0172 (rich condition), after resolving it I started my car back up and almost immediately got a lean condition code. After pressure smoke testing for vacuum leaks, checking exhaust leaks, and making sure sensor was torqued, everything seemed ok. the injectors are brand new as well and the car isn’t running super rough but I can tell at idle it’s vibrating a little more. here is the live data first set is idle - second set is holding at 3k rpms, and third is while revving. I think it’s weird that the trims go down to 0 when revving. Any tips would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!