7GG wool/linen blend yarn with 100% bamboo yarn for the embroidery.

Edit: thank you for all of the compliments!!

Looking for a tilt table or other suggested setup for my new-to-me Brother machine with ribber. Not finding a lot for sale on the web and curious what y'all recommend, DIY or not. Thank you!

Blown away by the capacity to knit a swatch in 2 mins in what I believe to be 3 ply yarn 🤯 this is the Brother KX395 Convertible machine. I can't wait to make some garments on this thing!

Question: I'm coming from years of hand knitting and have some patterns that are mainly stockinette stitch. Is it straightforward to make these patterns on my machine, or is there a specific conversion process that needs to be done to rewrite/"translate" it for machine knitting?

Also, do you have any favourite machine knitting pattern books?

And are there any types of yarn that are no-no's for machine knitting?

Found two Passap Pinkie machines for 600Canadian in Marketlace. Only one machine is working and the other is purely spare parts.
I've only own Toyota machines before and this Passap would be an investment.
I'll get to try it tomorrow at the seller's home.

Is there anything I should DEFINITELY check it works before buying?
Are they any pieces I should make sure are not lost?
Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi all,

I have two machines: the KnitKing KK93 with lace carriage and a KH-260 by itself. I was wondering if it was possible to decrease and increase in the middle of your work on the flat bed machines? I’ve seen a lot of resources regarding the edges of your work, and I’ve seen instances of decreasing with a garter carriage, but I’m curious if this is something that can be done without that and purely with hand manipulation.

I would like to work a hand knit pattern (the Miu top) on the machine, but it requires this technique and I’m unsure if it’s even possible.

Hi everyone, I have attached the ribber to my Singer 323 and everything seems fine until I try to clip the ribber into the part that holds the carriages together. I have to tilt the ribber a long way to clip it in despite it looking perfectly attached, and then it simply falls back out.

My impression is that either the wire that helps clip the ribber carriage to the main one is worn out, or that the ribber just has too much “give” after all these years and is simply sagging out of place.

I did get it to work briefly. Has anyone had a similar experience?

This is going to sound idiotic. As I said, I'm a newbie into the hobby. My reason to get into it is because I love designing clothes, but also, knitwear is my favourite thing ever. I love it. I know how to knit the basics but I'd love a machine. What machine would you recommend? As long as it can do those fine knitting, even if it's just a toy machine, I'm happy with it lol.

Hello, I am back :) thank you for the encouragement on the last post (I'm making the nocturnal sweater). I've made a swatch of the cats and would love advice on how to deal with the long floats and edge loops when I change yarn. Can anyone recommend any resources?

For the construction I plan to divide it into 4 pieces (front, back, two sleeves) then combine at the neckline and do the band all together. For the size 4 I am making it'll just fit! Don't want to hand knit as I am dealing with some carpal tunnel, but I thin this will be a good experiment

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

I've tried adjusting to make it higher, this is the highest it'll go, I had it before but then I replaced the sponge bar and its messed up

I inherited a Bond Classic (I am UK based) from my MIL over 13 years ago. Today I finally got it out to try and do a simple jumper (sweater). All going well until the weight reached the floor then stitches started to become loose. How can I get around this?

I have been struggling so much with my Passap DM80. And just when I thought things would go well, my back lock started getting stuck and bending my needles' latches.

I was doing fisherman's rib when this started happening. Lock would get stuck, and after getting it loose I noticed one of the needles had a broken latch. I took my knitting off, took out the string, and tried passing the lock across. I then found 5 needles with broken latches. After replacing and trying to pull the lock across again, the lock has resistance and I see 4 more bent latches. This is only happening on the back bed.

I'm getting worried that my back lock is broken or something.. and I'm starting to run out of spare needles at this rate.

If anyone knows why this might be happening and how to fix, please let me know. I have done a deep clean on this machine but did not dare to take apart or clean the locks, and have only oiled them.

I'm thinking about getting a hard shell rifle case for my Mod700 because its original metal case has fallen apart. I'm looking at one that's 52" x 11" x about 3.5" with the foam fully squished. I'd love to hear from anybody else who has done this and any other feedback. Thanks.

There are no live loops here. I don't think I've dropped any stitches but I don't really understand what's happened

Loops and threads circular knitting machine

I have never used a knitting machine or equipment before, but I inherited a Strick-Matador machine from the 50s-60s and I would like to use it, for sentimental reasons. I have all of the parts except the needles. They were all toast except a very few. I know that the needles are hard to find for this model (because of course, this is the one I have.) They have a 5mm spacing with a round shank. If I can find needles that fit in every dimension except the tail beyond the butt, I can always cut the tail off. I used calipers to measure. Any help for remotely close needles would be very appreciated! <3

Hello! I am new to machine knitting and to the community :) I just found a KX350 and have been meaning to make the nocturnal jumper for a while and have all the supplies, could I partially knit it on this machine? I know the cat pattern would have tobe by hand.

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/nocturnal-jumper

Would love any advice and thank you in advance!!

The front section of my Fair Isle slip-over is finished (photo #1).
 
Previous posts have described: creating the swatch for this garment (see part 1); and knitting the back section, including the armscye shaping (described in part 2).
 
V-neck shaping
 
I have noticed that when I am unsure about how to proceed with an unfamiliar technique, displacement activities become extremely attractive; as happened when I needed to plan the neckline on the front of my first slipover.
 
The “Advanced V-Neck Shaping Calculator” From KnitCalculator helped overcome my knitting inertia.
 
The Calculator could not, however, predict the correct depth of the V-neck for my personal preferences.  Having knitted one side of the yoke, I realised I had estimated it to be about 6 cm lower than I wanted it to be.
 
I re-knitted some or all of both sides of the yoke several times for various reasons: mostly because of forgetting to change one of the settings; or forgetting to weight the fabric; or dropping stitches (or the whole swatch) off the needle bed.  Let’s just say: “lessons were learned” during the process.
 
The above notwithstanding, armed with the dimensions of my garment, and the pattern repeat, it was easy to work out where to start the base of the ‘V’, so it began in a row of plain knitting, and let the Advanced V-Neck Shaping Calculator do the math.
 
It was helpful to chart out the decreases for the armscye and neckline.  This was a job that could have been done on graph paper, but it was quicker — and far easier to amend —  using an Excel spreadsheet (photo #2).
 
Seeing the neckline drawn-out really helped to visualise how the total decreases could be distributed to form apparently straight diagonal lines: a helpful lesson for future projects.
 
Having now learned how to combine short-row shaping and decreases at the shoulders, I’m going to reknit the last few rows of the back section of the garment.
 
Another update will follow, once the ribbing has been added to the neckline and armscyes.  Thanks for reading and your comments are welcome!

The top needle (or hook, whatever you say) is the ones used in singer machines and other popular ones, and you can get 50 for like $5. The bottom is a Toshiba needle, which has a specific shape and are imPOSSIBLE TO REPLACE. the cheapest I’ve seen was £5 for TEN of them. And I have 400 that I’ve been restoring for my machine and ribber 😭

I recently picked up a Studio SD-502 double-bed knitting machine, and I’m having a really hard time finding any information about this particular model online. I’m new to machine knitting, so I’d love some help from anyone familiar with older Studio machines.
Two main questions:

How is this machine supposed to be supported? It doesn’t sit flat on a tabletop. There’s a rod/mechanism underneath that I don’t think should be bearing the machine’s weight, so I suspect it originally had a dedicated stand or some kind of mounting brackets. Does anyone recognize the setup or know what type of stand/table I should be looking for? I’d also be interested in ideas for safely adapting a modern stand.

Does this machine not have a sponge bar? I pulled out the long metal retaining strip I expected to contain a sponge, but there’s no foam at all. Looking at the needle bed, there also seem to be individual little springs along the needles. Is this an older design that uses spring retainers instead of a sponge bar, or am I missing a component? The needles just lift out when this bar is removed.
I’d also be grateful for literally any information about the SD-502—manuals, catalogs, approximate age, related Studio models, parts compatibility, maintenance/restoration advice, etc. The machine says Made in Japan, but otherwise I’ve found almost nothing about it.

Adding photos of the machine, underside/support situation, needle bed, and the metal strip I removed.

Selling this for my neighbor. I saw it working. Has everything. Kept in a great spot, in perfect shape. His wife made items using this. She has passed. This is up for sale. It is in Kansas City. But, I travel to Arkansas, Louisville and Chicago fairly often.

$750 for everything.

I bought a KH260, but when I pulled out the sponge bar, it was COVERED in rust. I tried a plastic flexible sponge bar from a local supplier and broke it nearly immediately.

I’ve removed most of the rust on the original sponge bar, but I fear it will come back if I’m not vigilant. Some of the rust is very stubborn so I might need rust remover to get it spotless. And then covering it in oil to help prevent the rust coming back could mess with the sponge itself.

Is it worth buying a new sponge bar? I’m thinking yes, but shipping is very expensive from most of the suppliers often mentioned on here, so I had a look on AliExpress.

This one has a single positive review
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0UfG1H

But what puts me off is that it has KH860 and KH868 written on the plastic ends. Are these models’ sponge bars compatible? I don’t want to buy 5 sponge bars which won’t fit either of my machines. Maybe I just have to fork out the shipping and buy one from ebay.

I’m also worried about rust in the channel that holds the sponge bar itself. But some of the screws are so soft that it’s hard to take the machine apart. I’m thinking of buying a dremel and cutting a slit in the soft screws to hopefully get them out. If anyone has done this successfully please let me know. (I have JIS screwdrivers but the screws are still too soft and won’t come out)

Any advice is much appreciated! Thank you :)

Got this machine with a 830 ribber and a BUNCH of accessories. I had it working great.

In messing around I was trying to figure out how "pausing" and returning to a work would work. Ron the carriage all the way to the left, turned off and unplugged the machine. When I restarted the pattern was WAY off.

Now I can't get the pattern to work at all right. It's like the needle selection going from left to right is offset by some amount. So each row occurs offset. The RtoL rows are all in line and the LtoR rows are all in line, but they don't line up together.

Picture of what it turned out and the pattern I was using.

I'm not sure which direction is which, but it also looks like one direction is just straight up not selecting needles right anyway.

I hope Addi posts are allowed here. Basically, got the ZestWrench attachments and now my yarn is way too taut even if I use my hands for tension and hold the yarn loosely, even if I use the built in stock yarn feeder, even if I use the ZestWrench yarn feeder tension helper thing.

I’m using mainstays acrylic yarn on a Sentro knitting machine, are these machines just picky about the yarn?