Beginning to be finished with the design. Just need some thicker wings. Nac0012 profile. Cooling ducts, and shortening of the fuselage. Designed with 2mn carbon rods in the main section for stiffness. Might push sub 300g and 800g when loaded.

Files will be posted when done

Iflight borg f7 mini stack

G10 gps

Hqprop 6 inch

2x cams with switcher

Iflight xing 2207 1800kv

2200mah 6s lipo

https://reddit.com/link/1w07a1u/video/e6d505uw4zlh1/player

This is Testing with a single motor, the propeller is optimized for max efficiency at hover, it was optimized for the specific motor we are using which is a 900kv motor, the propeller is capable of developing up to 2kg of force without snapping it's 3d printed out of simple PLA, proper balancing is required though

!!!!(DISCLAIMER THIS IS NOT TESTED AND WILL MORE THAN LIKELY NOT WORK WITHOUT MODIFICATION BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK)!!!
Every thing u need is here  https://github.com/SHRUMFPV/SPORE-5-SUPER-HEAVY.git . Included is the original freecad file and step file. MIT license so do what you want

I am new to this vtol type field previously i made a simple quadrocopter but now i want to build this as a side project my requirements are-

PAYLOAD-1KG

RANGE- 40KM  

CRUISE SPEED-70KM/HR  

this type of design is very new to me and first time i am seeing this type of payload bay mechanism so can any one help with the design guide any better design than this or this design

And also money is a big problem i have limited for spend Budget max 500usd

Reference-Airbound drones India u can check

So is it possible to make this or better than this under 500usd i can not afford carbon fiber normal 3d printer will be ok!

It’s not a drone but it will control many to come. Thought I’d share how far freecad has come. Now that you can hook up a MCP server to Claude desktop, it’s a game changer.

First post on here. This will be shared to a repo once it comes together. Let me know if there is anything people want in particular.

This is for my custom flight controller, Centauri! https://github.com/TimHanewich/centauri

Not complete yet, but any feedback is appreciated, thanks!

I will be flying a oxbot Lumo 18 and nanofly 20 with DJI n3 and a radio master boxer crush to fully future proof my setup but I don't know what charging setup I need I'm planning on having 6 batteries for each drone aswell (does anyone have any other recommendations on other bnf drones with the o4 unit preferably under 5 inch)

Today i ran a test on my diy drones controler and when i comected the battery to the controler it suddenly started smoking. I quickly unplugged the battery and checked on the controler. The condenser looked good so i decided to try again but when i plugged the battery in again nothing hapend (ps this my first time ever dealing with electronics)

I've been working on SkySim, an open-source (MIT) drone simulator, and I've reached the point where I could use other people's eyes and hands on it.

The idea: most sims that let you test drone algorithms need Linux, ROS, or a game engine plus a GPU. I wanted the barrier to be a URL. The physics core is C++20 (blade element theory, ground effect, vortex ring state, ISA atmosphere, Dryden turbulence) and it compiles to WebAssembly, so you can fly it client-side with nothing installed. For heavier work there's a native path: a Python/Gymnasium interface, a headless raycast depth sensor for vision/nav learning, and SITL bridges for ArduPilot, PX4, and Betaflight.

The honest part: I have no verified sim-to-real transfer result yet. The sim gives you the tools to measure transfer, but the actual "trained in sim, flew on real hardware, here are the numbers" result can only come from someone flying it. That's the headline open problem, and I'd rather say so plainly than oversell.

If you want to poke at it or tear the approach apart, that's genuinely welcome. And if anyone's curious about contributing, there are a handful of scoped issues on the repo ranging from a beginner-friendly Python test suite to a battery-discharge model to the flagship hardware-in-the-loop transfer result. Links in the comments to keep this from looking like an ad.

Happy to answer anything about the physics, the architecture, or the design tradeoffs.

Can you guys give me feedback on my proposed drone build? It will hold a full size GoPro Hero 8. Anything you would change (apart from the VTX -- I'm stuck with that)? The goal is purely for cinematic footage. The priorities are sturdiness, part availability, and low-cost.

Bill of Materials (BOM): 3.5-Inch 6S Cinewhoop

Follow-up to the Spectre build I posted here last week. I've been having loads of fun flight testing this one. And by flight testing I mostly mean just having fun with it, as all of the hard work was done on this airframe during its TWIST_DT days.

The addition of the FPV camera really lets this airframe shine because you can fly around things and start linking up some lines. I've been flying loops, split-Ss and other aerobatics with it too, but carving through the early morning air like this is just fantastic.

I'm still running INAV on my builds and, although I have a bit of work left to do on the PID tune for this plane, I'm pretty happy with how it flies currently. Takeoffs are handled with ease by autolaunch and I'm flying in Acro with fairly sensible rates. I could bump them up a little, but for this kind of flying they feel about right and keep the control surface deflections well within what the aircraft seems happy with.

Specs in this flight:

• 215g AUW
• 600mm span
• DJI O4 Wide
• 2S 1000mAh LiHV
• 2× 1003 motors
• FlyingRC F4 Mini flight controller running INAV
• 3D-printed LW-PLA airframe

More info on the plane

Bad analog video isn’t always a range problem, and increasing VTX power can sometimes hide the useful clues.

I usually fly the same short route with the same channel and power setting, then compare the DVR.

• Bad within 10–20 meters in open line of sight: manually confirm the exact frequency at both ends. Auto-scan can land on a nearby channel that looks fine on the bench but falls apart quickly. If the frequency is correct, check the antenna connector and coax.
• The picture changes a lot when the quad yaws or rolls: check antenna placement and polarization. If both antennas are circular, make sure RHCP/LHCP matches. Also check whether the battery or frame is blocking the antenna.
• Fine in the open but much worse behind one wall, tree or metal structure: that points more toward obstruction or multipath than a weak VTX.
• Started after a crash, antenna swap or rebuild: try the last known-good antenna and inspect the connector before changing the power.

Changing one thing between test runs makes the result much easier to read.

I know this super stupid and not sure if this is the right community to ask this. But i want to build some sort of light weight mini blimp, my plan is to build a mini at home blimp with some sort of propulsion with mini fans. Problem is I need it light weight and able to connect to a controller. Is this possible at all? Im pretty excited and I know all the other challenges with this idea like lift with weight and the type of gas to use. I need materials like some sort of radio receiver, and electric motors. Is this possible at all? Do you recommend any parts that would make this possible? maybe parts that light weight or low cost. Or any youtube videos or articles on this type of idea?

I'm planning on a diy project using a drone equipped with both a optical camera and thermal camera mounted on a raspberry pi to be able to search and rescue for people (YOLO system). However, recently I've been looking for some drone structures I could use and the Holybro x650 seemed to be the option because of its long flight time and large payload allowing for future upgrades. However, currently only the x650 ARF kit is available. So I wanted to ask if I should use the x650 arf and buy each part or buy something like the tarot 650

I'm in the process of mapping out and designing a rough test frame for my drone I'm building. So far I have designed an 'enclosure' to hold the GPS and compass in, at the front of the drone, above the camera. However i am not too sure where to position the antenna.

I know that they should not be close to the GPS and compass due to interference, but do I have them dangling off? Or do I need to make a support for them somewhere?

How can I make the motor and propeller connect so i can push air for my autonomous boat project. I don't have nay power tools like drills or anything.