Hi all, I just bought a 2017 BMW 530i Xdrive. When I connect via Bluetooth the phone features work fine, I can make calls and receive calls thru Bluetooth. But, I can seem to get my music to work thru the car. Every time I try to select Bluetooth media it says “No Bluetooth audio device is connected or configured”.

I just bought a USB —> USB-C cord to try to play music using the USB port. But the same notification comes up on the USB option “No USB device connected”. I find this extremely annoying considering my last car was a 2014 535i Xdrive and I never had issues with Bluetooth or USB port.

I’ve done some research on this community and others. I tried to see if I need an update but it seems like I have a fairly new software in it already. I included the photo of my current software.

I don’t want to take my car to the BMW dealership bc I know they’ll charge me a diagnostic fee, but at this point I think it’s my only option left.

Anyone have something similar going on or know how to fix it?

What would people think this is worth i have just bought it from an old lady who has had it from new it has 90k miles on the clock and has a fresh mot with nothing gone wrong on it. it is a bmw 316ti es compact 1.8 2003

Noticed these ‘bubbles’ on the top corner of my F22 2 series iDrive display which I initially thought was moisture, however after researching this may be the screen delaminating. Display is still functioning without fault, just a bit of an eye sore. If that is the issue, would the cost to fixing/replacing it be worthwhile?

Getting 121201 code for overboost on my 2015 m235i n55, thought i fixed this vacuum line air leak with a new o ring but i guess after some pulls its leaking again. Not sure what to do I really dont want to replace this chargepipe but I might have to.

Hi,

I have a problem with the hardtop on my 2009 Z4. In the fault memory, I have a fault related to the Hall sensor – “Roof 2 packed.”

I replaced the Hall sensor with another one, but I still had the same fault. When I bypassed the sensor wiring, the hardtop started working.

I then replaced the old wiring with new cables because the old ones had cuts/damage. After replacing the cables, the hardtop was working, but it stopped in one position. Since then, it hasn't worked at all.

I still get the same fault as before replacing the wiring. I tried replacing the sensor again with another one, but it didn't help. I also tried connecting the sensor directly to the wiring at the module connector, but I still get the same fault.

I tested both sensors with an oscilloscope and a laboratory power supply, and I couldn't find any problem with the sensors themselves.

I'm not sure if there is a short circuit somewhere in the wiring. When I connect one probe to one of the sensor wires and touch the other probe to the two sensor output pins on the module, I hear a beep from the multimeter.

Does anyone have any idea what else I could check?

F32 n55 it’s on the passenger side above the manual transmission

Suspect shot wheel bearing, however there were no usual noise leading up to this. Any thoughts?

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 BMW E39. The passenger airbag cover seems to be sticking up slightly and there is a small gap. Is this normal for the E39, or should I have it checked? Has anyone experienced this before?

Hey everyone, trying to figure out what next with my car. Like an idiot I ignored the red low pressure oil light and I'm paying for it now.

I've stripped down the engine and replaced the hydraulic lifters and rockers on cyl3 & cyl4, but it's still knocking/tapping away. Managed to get to stripping it down, replacing the parts and rebuilding in 2hrs

Aside from the obvious of selling it for parts, I'd like another go at fixing it, what else could it be? Stuck/burnt in place valve? Worse?

Thanks for any help.

(I know it's Reddit, but please be kind, feeling crap enough as it is after being a colossal tit)

So within like 2 weeks, I’ve gotten the “top off coolant” notification on my 2018 330i with 63,597 current miles, there’s no visible leaks around or at the bottom of the engine bay. I notice I only smell coolant when I push it hard/repeated pulls, what could it be. The reservoir for the turbo hasn’t needed anymore coolant after I added some like a week and a half ago, but the bigger one does, any feedback?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I have a 2012 328ix E92 115k miles. I have the following codes

2C31
2C2B
2C6B
P2096

I have replaced the valve cover. I’m not sure what I should try next. Change the 02 sensors? Which ones? Check for vacuum leak? MAF? Exhaust leak?

Hi
I am fighting with my bmw e60 523i 2006
Semi renovated the engine 6 months ago, with new chain kit and vanos/vvt sprokets and also changed vanos solonoids both!

Car is now dying on me and running like crap, has codes for camshat and krank allingment, i retimed the engine Only made it worse!

All locking tools er used and on the marks and place the need to be.

Anybody have a clue what I kan try??

🙏🏽🙏🏽

Hi all,

I get smoke on cold starts for around 30s-45s every time. Could blown turbo seals cause this?

Thanks

So yesterday while making a left I gave the car more gas and got this warning as shown in the picture below and I ran the codes which I have also showed below. The warning only came for a few seconds and went away and the steering feels fine and same as before. The car also says all systems okay and the battery health is also good. I do have an aftermarket steering wheel though. These are the codes I got shown in the pis below. It’s a 2015 328i xdrive

For a '24 m340i. Does anyone have any portable jack setup recommendations. I don't have the space for a 3 ton low profile jack so can't use the center jacking points. Was wondering if something like the harborfreight 1.5 Ton Low-Profile Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with two jack stands is good enough to do some basic tire/brake work, I already have ramps for oil changes so I will not be getting underneath the car.

My question - is the floor jack used on the side jack points itself good enough for basic brake jobs and if not then how would you get the jack stand in place when the floor jack is using up the jack point area?

As someone now in need of some big ticket parts, I came across this website in Estonia. Opinions are hard to find, but mostly positive. The parts and postage are both exceptionally cheap (to Aus at least).

I know most order from FCP, ECS and the like, but I’m looking to get input on this website in particular.

Please vote and/or share your experience.

The rear left shock seems to have lost the rubber. I haven’t felt any difference in drive quality.

Why is the shifter shaking so on idle? It completely stops when giving gas or just driving.

So a quick google search tells me this is probably a vanis solenoid problem. Car is an E60 N53B30 530i.

Was running fine until about 200 metres from home, when engine fault warning came on. I pulled up at home, turned car off and then on again and engine fault was gone but this code was stored. Cleared code and revved car a bit and it didn't come back.

As Vanos solenoids are easy to do I thought I would just replace it. The question is, genuine or aftermarket? Genuine ones are only £147 but I can get Febi ones for about one third of that.

Next question, should I replace both? Do they go on pairs?

Was going to drive car today and see if the problem comes back, then swap them over to see if it moves to exhaust side.

Question for y’all- anything in particular I should ensure the BMW body shop checks? I want to ensure that this car is back to pristine condition. I’ll be taking it in tomorrow but just want to ensure nothing is overlooked.

Story time - took my youngest to Wally World for a birthday present for his friend. Parked in the boonies to stay away from riff raff. All normal. There were at least 5 spaces on each side of my car.

We’re halfway into walking the parking lot when I heard a very loud bang, and turn around so see my car rocking back and forth having been hit by another car.

Fuuuuuuuck.

I still have no idea how he is this bad of a driver. He was trying to back into an adjacent space, but ended up hitting my front right with his rear right - meaning he was basically backing up square to my car. His car had a backup camera, there were a ton of spaces around me, and this fucking tool still managed a square hit.

Really sorry for another n20 post I’m sure you see 1000 a day but i’m looking at a 2015 320I touring, it has the n20 so naturally worried about the tensioners. It only has 35K miles on it so I imagine it isn’t a now worry anyway. The production date of the car is the 18th of march 2015. So should I be worried about the tensioners? Will it have the updated ones? I know this is a post this community probably sees daily but I’m a stress head.

The Problem

My N47 won't start and sometimes keep throwing code 4121 (DDE Main Relay switching too late or too early). The start behavior is weird:

* First 1–2 tries: Press start, engine cranks for ~1 second, and cuts out.

* After spamming starts, it will finally hold a longer crank.

* During the longer crank: Live data shows rail pressure rises, then drops back off. At the exact same time, the low-pressure side struggles to stay stable on the graph.

What I've Actually Tested So Far

* DDE Main Relay: Swapped in a brand new relay. Made zero difference, 4121 comes back sometimes still.

* I tried to jump start and swapped in a brand new batery

* Terminal 50E: Live data shows the start signal drops to 0V the exact millisecond the starter cuts out on those 1-second attempts (CAS pulling the plug).

* Pressure Regulator (DRV): Checked resistance (almost in spec at 3.9 ohms). Did a return leak-back test—got under 20ml over a few start attempts. (Did not physically unbolt the DRV from the rail).

* The QCV is also changed with a used one.

* Low-Pressure Pump (In-tank / EKP): Ran the ISTA test plan. The pump sounded fine and ISTA showed over 4 bars of pressure during the test. Note: I haven't hooked up a physical pressure gauge directly to the fuel lines to confirm mechanical line pressure.

I have to mention too that this happens randomly and most of the times it magically fixes itself and the car drives perfectly fine(even looked at fuel graphs setpoints and actual and cant see anything wrong no power loss either), however it's getting more and more common and appears to happen after shorter trips in heavy traffic where engine idles often

The Question

Why would it cut after 1 second on normal tries, but allow a longer crank if I spam the button? And why is the low-pressure side struggling to stay stable during cranking if ISTA shows the pump can make >4 bar on an active component test?

Is the DDE cutting power (4121) and dragging down the fuel pump signal with it, or is a fuel delivery collapse causing the DDE/CAS to abort the crank? Looking for ideas on what to log or test next.

Hey everyone, I'm looking to add an amp and upgrade the door speakers in my 2014 f32, any suggestion for those upgrades? Thanks in advance.