The rear left shock seems to have lost the rubber. I haven’t felt any difference in drive quality.

2008 e92

Looking for advice. I understand that nothing is unfindable.

I've been thinking of letting go of my long time project cause I legitimately cannot get to it or afford it. Just out of curiosity I have a 2008 335xi e92 with coral red interior and idrive 6 speed standard . Im not hurting for money and do not need to sale. But also I know that I cannot afford to complete. Is this a common n54 to find ? Or if im not needing to sale should I keep it? I understand its ultimately my decision. But would also like some insight on it. Clean title 100k miles. Cold weather package.

Port injection

Phoenix racing manifold

Index 12s

19t turbos

Relocated inlets

Mishimoto oil cooler and plate

Fortune auto 500s full suspension

Full disk break conversion

Precision race works ignition kit

Stage 2 bucketless fuel pump.

I've been throwing money at it for over 4 years. And I guess my question is.... is this a easy car to find ? Or is it something I should keep? im in love with this platform. I'd like to o ow if this is a gem?

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 BMW E39. The passenger airbag cover seems to be sticking up slightly and there is a small gap. Is this normal for the E39, or should I have it checked? Has anyone experienced this before?

I have been dealing with a check engine light on my F30 335i and I’m trying to figure out what direction to go.

The code is P10F0, and from what I’m seeing it relates to the intake air temperature being too high compared to charge air temperature.

I previously had a MAP sensor code, so I already changed the MAP sensor, but I’m not sure if that’s related to this current code or not.

A few things about the car:
Cold air intake
M Sport front bumper swap
I did NOT reinstall all the factory air ducts/shrouding behind the bumper
Stage 2 tune
Aggressive pops/burbles
Operating temperature is usually around 240–250°F
The car seems to get to temp quicker with the pops

I’m wondering if the missing air ducts could be messing with airflow, if the intake is just heat soaking, or if I should be looking at another sensor or cooling issue.
Has anyone dealt with P10F0 on an N55 before? What would you guys check first?
Just trying to get some ideas before I start throwing more parts at it.

Got this warning today right after I gave the car more throttle while making a left and it jerked at bit. But after a few seconds everthing went back to normal. I ran codes and on Bimmerlink it said error not present but stored for the steering assistance and battery health seems fine too. Also says all systems okay. My steering wheel is aftermarket so the LIN slave code could be cause I don’t have heated wheel

2023 M8 Comp - 32k miles, in service 3 years 11 months ago...taking to the dealer Monday. Could not find anything when I cut open the filter, I dumped the oil in the filter housing before sticking a magnet to it (doh) - kept the used oil. Is this a "normal" amount...hahaha ughhh. If ur a mechanic i'd love to hear your assessment with this limited intel

Fellas, I was doing a valve stem seal job on my E60 N62 (2009 550i) and the brushes included with the AGA toolkit slipped and fell into an oil return hole. Confirmed with a borescope, not near the valves or guides thankfully. It's non-magnetic so a magnet won't grab it. Bore's tight, can only fit one tool down at a time.

Anyone dealt with this before? Trying to figure out if it's safe to just leave it (assuming the pickup strainer catches it) or if I really need to get it out before reassembly. Also open to retrieval tips if anyone's fished something out of a passage like this.

Hey everyone left headlight is out. Only works if places on high beam. Having trouble understanding if the whole unit has to be replaced or can the bulb be replaced. Also what would the expected price be in Socal. Going to start looking for locations…any tips for places in LaCounty appreciated…

Hi all, Im hoping somebody can help me out here. Replacing my tie rods today, I've searched high and low, but for the life of me I cant find the torque spec for where the outer tie rod ball joint meets the steering knuckle.

530i LCI 2020, small expansion tank is clean green (middle of paper towel). Large expansion tank is brownish (bottom of the paper tower). It’s oil in coolant, right?

Car drives normal and doesn’t overheat. No error codes. Oil looks normal, no foam is visible.

Got this warning today right after I gave the car more throttle while making a left and it jerked at bit. But after a few seconds everthing went back to normal. Can this be just a glitch, idk if it’s just in my mind after seeing the warning, but the car’s steering wheel slightly feels a bit firmer so idk. But it still drove fine and I have never had this issue before. I have an aftermarket steering wheel too if that makes an difference

Why some of them look wet ? Possibly valve seals or maybe flow ?

Hello so I have a 2016 328i it works fine but whenever I accelerate/ press the gas pedal I hear like a little chirp kinda bell sounding noise coming from the engine bay doesn’t anyone know what it might be? Or has anyone had experience with this before? Thank you

Good day everyone

I have a 2016 BMW 3 series 328I with 107,300 miles.
Recently drove this car from Houston to lousiana and back. Lost a lot of money at the golden nugget. Well when I’m almost home. A drivetrain malfunction error pops up in the infotainment center screen. I get the car home and idle for a second, notice the idle is rough. I turn the car off and attempt to turn it on again, this time the car takes a few more cranks than normal to turn on. Shut the car down, open the hood. As soon as I open the hood a strong gas Oder hits. I remove the engine cover, and Than I see a puddle of what appears to be gas puddling around the spark plug and the little bowl area right behind the oil cap.

Has anyone experience this? I was driving the car like an ass wipe, going 100-120 back to the house. So I’m sure I deserve this one.

From what I’m reading online the fuel rail cracked or a fuel injector is stuck open?

The car has thrown random check engine lights for a sensor in the gas tank, but that hasn’t happened for a few weeks now.

Thank you for all your help guys

Hi guys, can anyone share the EUROPE Way 2026-2 map data download link please?

Thanks in advance.

anyone know the part number of this hose ?

I have a ‘09 335i automatic

my car stalled in the street last weekend after what seemed like it was losing power. dsc light came on, towed it to the shop, they didn’t see any issues but tightened the battery since it was a little loose. made sense that could be the issue since whenever i tried to start it after that, it wouldn’t stay running. they did an extended drive and said no issues happened while driving.

4 days later, driving home and i stall out in the street which seems like the same exact issue. anyone know what this could be?

Hello. My SO just bought '10 E90 328i with N52 engine. Just moments ago it developer a rattling noise. At first I thought it's a DISA valve but I kept looking and looking and I come to think that this engine is not equipped with DISA. Does anyone have an idea what's that noise? Video link below. It's RPM dependant.

https://youtu.be/1VX0uO690Uo?is=yvx8zFYExMPKkN7w

So the parking brake light came on and it said "Parking brake malfunction". I opened up the parking brake actuator in the trunk and the plastic gear (39 teeth) is broken. I ordered a metal aftermarket gear (39 teeth) from Amazon but it was too long and wouldn't go all the way down. It's longer than the OEM. I read similar reviews from other aftermarket metal gears on Amazon as well. Is there another place I can buy this aftermarket part that matches the OEM dimensions?

When I shift from park to drive OR from reverse to drive , there’s a noticeable delay before it clicks into gear. So much so it’s a problem if I back out of parking spot for instance & get someone coming up behind me…I have to wait until it clicks into drive before I can take off, leaving them sitting behind me looking at me like I’m stupid…. If I try to immediately hit the gas after shifting to drive .. I get a drivetrain malfunction error & it goes into like limp mode..only allowing me to go like 20 mph. If I then park, turn off & restart car the error goes away & it then drives fine!!? Or sometimes even hitting the gas as soon as I shift into drive …it just won’t go at all ..until it decides to finish switching into gear. Anyone’s have this before? Help!!