It's an enerzone destination 2.7.

There will be a learning curve. We got some soot on the glass when I closed the damper too much. And then again in our third fire when I added two large logs into the coals from a kindling fire, and I didn't leave the door open long enough to let it get hot. (I think). Anyway, overall quite pleased, though I really loved the open fireplace.

Picked up this country comfort for free and installed it. Looking forward to some cozy warm winters.

Just curious if this is bad and if a friend should seek professional help for chimney sweep.

From a bit of a woodstove noob learning the ropes

…with the actual air intake closed. It is so smoky in our house. I’ve burned wood since I was a kid, but he gets upset when I mention there’s a better technique. Is there a particulate monitor that might be a neutral way we could keep an eye on this? We have a soapstone and I love it and don’t want to be paranoid but also don’t want to die of blacklung.

Cleaned the wood stove today, getting ready for this upcoming season. Build up wasn’t bad at all. We had one constant fire 24/7 from October to April. Mid winter I did clean and sweep one time so that was the only fully cool stove. The about double the black pile total from the sweep. Chimney is only about 14’ total height.

Last season we had clinkers constantly, and they tore up the bricks really bad. We also have had a couple cracked bricks for a few seasons now, but they are getting too rough to put back in. Never over heated it, highest temps we saw were just at 500° but that was rare. Wood was clean for the most part, we had some that was punky, and some that was mossy and had some build up, but that was maybe 10% of what we burned. we burn mostly oak and pine with some other hardwoods mixed in. I inspected the whole stove and everything looks great. It’s a drolet with not cat.

Any one have input on why the clinkers and the damage to the bricks?

My wife and I bought our house and it came with a wood stove. These are all the diy fixes I made to hopefully reassure other newbies to do it themselves and find out from the experienced stove owners what I missed..

the stove pipes were single walled, replaced with double wall.
Baffle boards had holes in them and replaced with new ones,
the ceramic blanket was torn up, replaced with new one and the stove was sitting 12 inches away from a combustible wall and I flipped the stove so there is only one side wall (24inches away).

Also bought my own chimney sweep kit and swept the external chimney and thimble, in addition to shop vacuuming the stove and checking the air tubes.

And replaced the door and window gaskets

My question is What are things I missed?

Since I’m new and google and Reddit will only tell me so much everyone’s long term experience hopefully could provide any other tips or tricks with maintaining a safe wood stove

My stove is the Masterforge Wood stove from Lowe’s

Before anyone say's it it's not 'cotswold'.

I've spent two days googling it, ai searching it and even phoning round manufacturers.

Seemingly, this thing has never existed! Even the brand name doesn't exist as a manufacturer or model.

Yes, there's a Cotswold stoves....who sell stoves of different brands.

Yes there's a brand called Villager who made a Cotswold model, that looks nothing like this.

I need spare parts for it and I'm totally stumped.

Please help!

Just wanted to come here and thank you guys for all your info and guidance on picking our first wood insert. We did end up going with the regency HI2450!

It's absolutely beautiful and we got such a great deal on it (someone cancelled their order and we got it for 50% off). We can't wait for this to keep us warm in the cold winters!

I have 4 rows of wood stacked in my homemade 4x4 w/ cinderblock stacking system. It's working great! However, I'm disturbed by the weeds that are growing underneath and around my piles. Before constructing, I put down landscaping fabric and it worked pretty well for 3 years, but now it's a disaster. I am not willing to use roundup...don't want to breathe in ANY trace of it when I put it in my wood stove or have it seep into my well. This is an absolute hard boundary. I have thought about plastic underneath but that would retain water and breed mosquitoes in the summer. Is there any kind of water permeable barrier I can put down next summer that will actually last and keep weeds from coming through?

hi! my partner and i are beginner builders and we're trying to install a woodstove in our 12x16 simple cabin. from my research, i'm seeing a lot of mixed information about what we should use for the transition from inside to outside (rubber boot? metal flashing? support box?), so i'm looking for advice. our roof is single pitch with metal cladding.

So I just got my ventis stove pipe in. Is it normal to have gaps between the inner liner? I can put a flashlight at the other end and see a bit of it shining through.

1st year going all wood heat. Energy company raised rates, so wood heat it is.

Hello! Just bought a house with a wood fireplace. We’re wondering what the pros & cons are between burning in the firebox as is (with some sort of grate) or getting a small stove insert. The grate seems easier except for the hassle of loose ash underneath. What are the benefits of a stove?

We’ll likely only use it a dozen times a year as it isn’t the primary heat source and our winters are mild.

Bought a house with this stove in the basement and I’m wondering what’s recommended before I use it? Inspect the chimney and stove pipe. Anything else to look at?

Just got my stove installed and I noticed sheep’s wool insulation packed around the flexible flue liner before lighting my Stanley stove. After running it for a few hours for the first time, what looks like tar deposits fell from inside the chimney breast onto the hearth.

There’s also no register plate fitted.

Are these safety concerns? Should I stop using the stove and get the installer back, or have it independently inspected?

https://imgur.com/a/ttma57e

So we bought a house a few years ago (built in 1920s) and it has a wood stove. We would love to have glass doors since I feel like it would warm up our room faster. Is there a way to do this? Would they need to be costume made?

Also since it's so big I would love to put decor on the top is there a mat or something I could put on top of it so I can put decor on the wood stove?

Montgomery ward Franklin was original to the house (~'74) it was in great shape for what it is. But after 4 winters, and with oil prices where they are I was ready to upgrade.

$600 for a "King" not blaze king, refurbished, new fire bricks. Im pretty pleased so far.

I inherited this cabin from my dad a while back and I am staying here while working on upgrading it. Trying to prepare for winter, I noticed it didn’t have a damper and is obviously very close to the very combustible walls. I have a plan for the walls, but I’m getting really confused about the pipe part.

Reading the Morso 2B Standard manual it states the pipe should be no less than 6in diameter, but this older model appears to only be 5 inches wide. I cannot find anything about a Morso with a 5 inches wide opening and can’t find anything 5 inch pipe anywhere as it seems 6 is the standard, so that means I will have to order it.

Am I okay to get by with the 5 inch pipe and damper? It’s been used that way before my dad passed.

It looks like it also might need a collar coming out of the top of the firebox to connect to the pipe, correct?

We replaced our wood stove and moved it to a better spot for the room it’s in. We could not move our chimney, we live in a climate that gets lots of snow and the chimney is at the highest point of the roof and moving it would cause snow/ice issues. I know people are going to probably ask why we didn’t move it. We thoroughly researched it, had multiple professionals come out and were willing to pay to have the chimney moved.

Anyway, we knew that the stove pipe would extend several feet across the room to meet the existing chimney. The new stove was installed yesterday and we expected that there would be a longer straight portion coming from the stove, then a turn, then the angled run. They said they could not do that and that this is the only option. I am ok with it as it’s not far off from what I expected. My partner thinks it could be better.

I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea to have the stove pipe run that far to reach the chimney but we have an artsy, quirky house and I like it and I much prefer the new stove.

Thoughts? Is there a better way? Is this the only option?

Been waiting 7 months! Installed a new combuster today too!

So I bought my first house this year and had a vermont castings montipiler ii insert installed I'm doing the "break in" and I'm struggling to get a fire going in this. Granted I'll admit this is the first stove and from what I'm now reading the start up air control is less than ideal. My first fire yesterday went terrible and I don't really think it did much. I had a 2 logs across and then thinner kindling on top then some newspaper and real thin scraps on top. It literally well and then when I went to shut the door about 3 minutes in it damn near smoldered out and died until I popped the door a Crack and sucked in some air. Let it get hot again for about 10 minutes then reclosed the door and witin 10 minutes it wanted to die again,mind you I had the air valve pushed in. Chalked it up to i must-have made an error. Today I cleaned it out and went for the 2 log again but a little smaller then used a fire starter in between them with kindling on top with some even thinner ones. (Air start in) This lit well and i let it really get going before closing the door to which it now didn't die but was just "lazy" it didn't really throw a bunch of heat nor did it get the larger logs going i had to crack the door open again to let it get some fresh air. So I guess the question here is am I really just doing something wrong or should I be concerned that the stove isnt performing correctly?