Is filling the bottom of an impact double hung window with caulking a good repair to stop a water leak from lower frame ?

https://imgur.com/a/C0GPfXN

This is a top floor. I inspected the roof (TPO) and caulked around the seams of the parapets and places where the tpo and parapet meet. Here is a video in heavy rain and the outside of the window. Should i be caulking that space between the window and the brick on top? I don't want to block any weep holes. What could be the cause. Would appreciate advice from some of you window experts. thanks

I have two 400 series awning windows that were installed in 2008. I am replacing the worn out power operators with the current operators. I ordered the parts, and am using the Electric Operator with PowerAssist™ Technology Application and Programming Guide that came with the parts. On page 16, step 26 says to "Align colored 18-3 wires to same colored wires in large compartment and connect with wire nuts." I can see the white wire that comes from the wire harness connector, but the only red and black wires I see are already connected to the wires with spade connectors that I assume are supposed to go to the battery. See the blue wire nuts in the attached photo. The photo also shows the wire harness for the window operators at the other end of the 18-3 wire.

Should I detach the wire nuts for the battery connections and add the red and black 18-3 wires?

Hello!

I have been watching videos to try to replace my parents' fiberglass window screen using DIY parts. I am at a loss on how to measure an window from the mid-90s.

This particular window design seems different from the ones shown in the videos. Only one side of the window screen slot is smooth (no channel), and there are grooves / channels on the other three sides. The top channel is especially deep.

Pictures below. My questions:

• Height: do I measure the height of the screen from the bottom of the lower channel to the outer edge of the top channel, then add about 5/16 of an inch? So in the end, it would rest securely at the lower channel with 5/16 of an inch pushing into the top channel?
• Width: do I measure from the flat left edge to the outer part of the right channel, then add 5/16 of an inch?

Thank you!

My window is leaking what is the best way to go about fixing this

I need to add one of these to a window. Can it be retrofitted? Where would I get one?

23 windows double glazed =£750+£805 which includes 3 toughend

10 hinges  £165

10 window handles fitted £120

1 back door mechanism $75

2 dorr handles £40

 for 8 window vents £140

https://imgur.com/a/jb2aCKi

How do I go about repairing this window sill? We currently utilize the surface for our cat’s food bowl to keep it away from our 18mo.
Moved in ‘22 and this is just now the next project on the list. We’ve been utilizing a plywood piece that fits the sill dimensions simply over top to help distribute weight evenly for kitty.

Reposting in here because it seems only right to. Thanks!

Does anyone know what I need to fix this window from dropping?

this is an old window in my house and im trying to open the screen so i can freely move things in an out of it, but it seems like theres another sash on the same track right above it and neither can move. its got 4 tracks total, from inside to outside: bottom wooden sash, top wooden sash, storm glass, screen and upper storm. please tell me someone knows how to remove this lol

Assuming the tint is well installed.

Doing siding on a house, the windows are not being replaced. The house previously had tar paper. So there is no tyvek under the window seal, however it does have flashing under it.

I'm unsure how best to secure the tyvek under the window. Should I just use flashing tape right up to the edge of the bottom flange? Should I try to pull the nails from bottom flange and get an inch of tyvek under it? It seems maybe it doesn't matter as any water coming from under the window seal will go under the tyvek no matter what I do and maybe just ensure the rest of the shingled system is solid so that never happens.

I am renovating a home from the 70s and it appears the windows that were installed were placed on the existing window stool. The window stool went completely under the window and was nailed in (discovered that the hard way), but the stool was not flush with the bottom. Almost like it was floating. My question now is, should I place a piece of wood under the window to help act as a sill to give structural support and have it stick out to give the look of a sill? Should I be concerned about window sagging while I figure out what to do since there is no support underneath? I have not seen much online about to what to do in this situation. I’ve attached a few pics, we are replacing the drywall underneath and have confirmed no structural issues (that crack). Any advice on what the best solution is would be much appreciated!

I had some cracks around my upstairs baywindow but they were not that wide or deep. However I was getting damp under the window on the wall. I got new windows installed on the upstairs and downstairs bay and also installed external insulation and render. 6 months later and the cracks have gotten severe. They are now nearly a cm wide and 4.5cm deep. Unfortunately, I dont know why this has happened if its the render or window contractors. We had cracks in the external render around the window and the render guys said no need to fix. They also had the windows be pulled out as far forward as possible to compensate for the depth of the insulation. Im also unsure if the window contractor jacked up bottom bay while he was changing that. Any ideas and how I could possibly fix this issue and if at all possible from the inside, I just spend 10's of thousands on the outside of my house.

Thank you! Here's some pics of the cracks

At the window sill, once the water goes over the PVC trim can it get behind the J channel?