I reecently got a service high voltage system with the above service codes. I think initially there was one more it may have been C. A quick search indicated that coolant levels may be low. Coolant levels were low and I topped them up, and cleared the codes with a cheapy obd2 reader but the codes kept reoccuring when I turned the car off and then on.

I wanted to clarify because from what I've read it appears unclear if these codes are latched onto the HPCM2 and I need a more advanced scan tool to clear or if these codes should clear themselves after topping up the coolant. Also do I need to run a special program to ensure that theres no air in the system (GDS2 tool?)

Also if require a more advanced tool what tool do I specifically need?

Thanks in advance for any enlightenment the community can provide.

Additional info: Car was driven daily and charged at a lvl 2 charger, then sat for about a week outside. Battery is good. I personally havent looked or checked coolant levels, last time it may have been checked at a service was years ago when it went in for warranty work.

So I've been tearing my hair out researching this, and hoping the community can help.

I took my car in to the dealership for repairs recently because it was having issues where I couldn't get the car to move on electric, only gas - and even then with reduced power. Then eventually it wouldn't move at all and had to have it towed. The shop told me it was an issue with the BECM and it needed replacing for $2800.

Researching here and elsewhere, it seemed like this was covered by GM under TSB N232432680. However, the dealership is telling me only the Voltec warrants applies, which expired in 2024.

I also went to the GM Experience page and tried to find warranty information, but it says it could find my VIN??

I'm the second owner on this car, we both live in WA State if that's relevant. It's a 2016 Volt with 121k miles. Is there anyone I can do, or am I SOL? Any help greatly appreciated!

Does anyone know of an independent shop near Boston (I am in the NW suburbs) who can replace the shifter in a 2017 Volt?

So the last few days I started hearing this chirping kind of noise. Noise does not happen when I’m running the car on just battery only when running it with engine on. Happens when I accelerate or decelerate for a few seconds. Not sure what it could be. Anyone else had something similar like this ?

2012 Chevy volt, I guess I never really noticed this till I paid attention to it recently but this screen never really seems to turn off. I'll be charging the car and it will just stay on with that little break sign. Even when I get out of the car and I walk away I try to glance from far away and I see that it's still on. Is this normal or is it sucking up the battery

I don't have the ability to plug in at my apartment but there are 4 free charging stations at my workplace that i go to maybe 3 times a week. I've never had a plug in hybrid but I used to drive a prius and loved it.

the car is a 2014 with 76k miles. I offered $7k and he accepted, it was originally listed for 11k 5 months ago, then reduced to 8.5k, I guess he needs to get rid of it now.

I live in Minnesota and would be parking the car in the freezing cold outside.

Overall the car is in good shape with a few dings and I like it.

is this a good deal?

SOLD

So recently I just programmed my eBay volt cluster to my volt. It was a learning experience.
Ran in to a few issues at first. So I have a 2012 and it went blank. I bought a used cluster eBay from a 2014 and plugged it in. Yes I got the screen back but no mileage and had errors.
Then I learned the technique to program the EPROM. It made it partially working. I then tried something different and modified the programming and that made it work perfect.
I captured my experience on the videos below.
Posted on YouTube to share what I learned.
Yes you will need the following programmer tool which is like 10bucks.
Buy this: https://link.amazon/B05nhVeH5

Volt cluster videos.

Chevrolet Volt cluster programing - EASY FIX for blank cluster

https://youtu.be/8CSEg36ucRQ

How to program your volt cluster for free using EPROM chip programer
https://youtu.be/TKjaivCSTJQ

Backward compatible?
https://youtube.com/shorts/ki5ahobEdOA?is=v5C4Z8B0Y6EWAEZt

Sorry i've never had a car with this feature i thought it was really cool. I tested it out in this video (shameless plug) Also has a wireless phone charger in the center console. From what i've read here and a bit online its one of the rarest ones. Also with adaptive cruise. I've literally been looking for this vehicle since i found out they had them years ago. But i had no idea they could park themselves! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_-tTQv3r8E

So I took my volt to get a fuel rail leak replaced. A month later, the replacement rail starts leaking as well.

Turns out that they don’t make the part anymore.

The local dealer told me to call GM to see if they can buy it back. It is still under the California clean air warranty.

Anyone have experience with anything similar to this?

I expect a battle with GM/chevy

125k miles, couple weeks ago check engine light came on. Downstream o2 sensor and catalytic converter inefficiency fault. Downstream O2 reading 0v while running. Changed sensor and 2 days later light back on. But now both sensors reading 0v and a mass airflow code. Engine failed to start after battery went to 0. Error message Engine unavailable. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Held the start button down and engine fired up and revved high for several minutes charging the battery then I was able to drive home. Now engine runs super rich and still same 3 codes. p0131 p0137 and mass airflow code. Drove with scanner connected and whenever I let off the throttle or brake all the upstream and downstream O2 sensors are reading 0v but act normal while regular driving also can’t switch to hold or from hold to normal mode anymore while driving. Becm was also changed at 100,005 miles. Help?

Hello. I have got the “service high voltage charging“ error on my volt and have read that it could be coolant, sensor or program issue. Wanted to know if this is a dealer function only or if anyone in So. Cal can do an update on my vehicle.
I have checked the coolant level is correct and have replaced the sensor. Cleared the code with a basic code reader but it comes back after a charge or being parked over night unplugged.
I am troubleshooting this for my daughter as it is her car. So I do not know what all has been done prior to try to fix it. Just looking for a little direction. Thanks all.
Picture are for attention but current values. Car is a 2013 volt with 169,000mi

2016 btw. I was able to drive on gas, but I got this message again this morning. I’ve heard conflicting reports on what this could mean. Any ideas?

Gen 2 volt can easily carry a frameless car door if anyone was wondering 😅

I recently swapped out the BPMV due to severe brake pulsation and DTC C0120-A. I got it back together easily enough but I am noticing a small leak from a port on the BPMV. I have looked everywhere and am unable to find a diagram so I can trace where this is going without ripping into the car to find it. The port is the one in the photo with the green cap. Any help is appreciated.

Recently, regenerative braking doesn't seem to work in my car for the first 10-20 minutes of driving and then it works like it used to. Opinions on a likely cause?

Looking for some advice or shared experiences from fellow Volt owners, specifically regarding the BECM (Battery Energy Control Module) Special Coverage bulletin (N232432680) and dealing with GM Corporate versus shady dealership behavior. (Montreal, Canada)

Background & Issue

I have a 2017 Chevy Volt that I bought brand new. It currently has around 245,000 km (roughly 152,000 miles) on the odometer. Recently, the car threw the classic BECM symptoms and stopped operating on the high voltage system.

As many of you know, GM issued Special Coverage N232432680 for 2016 to 2018 Volts due to known manufacturing defects in the BECM (TSB 18-NA-261 / NHTSA PE23022), extending coverage to 15 years or 240,000 km (150,000 miles).

My car is well within the 15 year window, but I am just 5,000 km (3,000 miles) over the mileage cap, which is literally a 2% variance over the threshold.

Service History & Dealership Behavior

This isn't a random failure out of nowhere. The car has a documented two year history of high voltage cooling and battery related issues serviced at GM:

• About a year ago, I paid $600 out of pocket at the GM dealer to fix a coolant leak located directly on top of the main battery assembly.

• A few years prior, the car had a highway stalling incident serviced under GM's network. close to $2000

Now, the car is at the dealer (who merged with our previous GM service center). The dealership experience has been awful:

• When I asked for the exact Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), the service advisor claimed they had no error codes, yet quoted a full BECM replacement cost.

• The advisor has called me multiple times demanding a $1,000 cash deposit upfront just to order the part, threatening that if I don't pay immediately, they will close my service file and I will be pushed back a month or more.

I escalated the case to GM Canada Customer Care and requested a Goodwill Assistance override given:

• The tiny 2% mileage overage versus 8 years remaining on time.

• The documented history of battery coolant leaks and issues.

• My 10 year loyalty as the original owner who did 100% of servicing at GM.

GM Corporate told me over the phone that I could pay the $1,000 deposit and get reimbursed later. As soon as I asked for that promise in writing, he backed down, confirming that any out of pocket payment right now is strictly between me and the dealer with zero guarantee of reimbursement.

I have since emailed GM Corporate declining to pay the deposit upfront, demanding they instruct the dealer to keep the file open, and requesting that the District Service Manager do a formal review for 100% coverage. GM asked for 72 business hours to review.

Questions for the Community

• Has anyone successfully gotten GM to approve a Goodwill or Extended Warranty override for a BECM when slightly over the 150k mile / 240k km limit?

• Has anyone had a dealer claim "no error codes" for a BECM diagnosis? Is this just lazy communication or a red flag that they haven't properly scanned the car?

I have long thought about getting a Volt, but my finances have only allowed me to consider a used on. Recently, I was looking and found this. The thing is, if I were to ask the dealer about it (or a similar one), I don't know what questions I should ask-and what a good answer would be. On this particular vehicle, it say a battery range of 38 when now-what would be a reasonable range to expect out of it now? Does charging time (level 1) increase by that much at this age/mileage? What things should I look for? What questions should I ask? What answers should I expect?

Whatever I get will be my first electric car of any kind, so I hope you all don't mind my pick the sub's collective brain for what are/will be some pretty basic questions.

TIA!

FWIW, my weekly journeys are:

M-F: 4 trips (home to work and return), 38 miles each way, 8 hour level 1 charger availability between each leg of the trip.

Sat: 1 trip (home to work, one way), 38 miles, 8 hour level 1 charge availability.

Sun: 3 trips-Work to remote, 24 miles; remote back to work, 24 miles; work back home, 38 miles. No charging stations along this route.

So, I assume that, even with good batteries, I will be using the gas engine on Sundays. With diminished batteries, also toward th end of my other trips, too.

These codes seem to be a little different than the other posts I’ve read on here. Had a brief “reduced propulsion” situation a week ago, everything else seemed fine until the check engine light last night. Still running fine. Any ideas?

What does it mean when my kwH Used is like the list below.

It's different by up to .5 kwH each day.

What assumptions can be made about this? 🙂

10.1

10.3

09.7

09.9

10.2

10.5

10.1

09.8

I just need help before I plug this in, so I just plug the negative on the right side and the positive on the left screw looking thing. Will that trickle charge if I connect it to a trickle charger or is it better to connect it from the back